I have new relics power windows, and the front ones have difficulty rolling up all the way.
I have tried spraying silicon in the channels and it seems to help for a short while. I've tried messing with adjustments and just don't seem to get it to work well.
Your channel replacement material is too tight, causing too much drag. Try rubbing some 320 sandpaper on one side of the fuzzy material to see if you can loosen it up. The other thought is that you are not getting full voltage to the motors, or the motors are failing to develop full torque to the regulators. What does the company that you purchased them from have to say about the problem?
Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.
Hi Guys, This is Dusty from Nu-Relics Power Windows. We do not normally have any trouble with the 61-64 Impalas lifting and sealing up. The suggestion about the felt runners is good. There is a lot of variation in parts out there these days so that may be part of the problem. Make sure your wiring harness has a good chassis ground. Please feel free to call me at 336-699-8949.
Make sure the rollers are all in their right channels and put some Lithium Grease in there also. Make sure all the bolts holding them in place are tight and not binding up the assembly.
1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse
I will chased down all suggestions and see how it goes.
IN answer to a couple of the questions: the rear windows roll up fine. The vent windows are not on power.
I did grease the rollers, in fact also put on new ones. But I will revisit that.
On the felt, I'll definitely work on that. I used what was provided by Ecklers.
I do have suspicions about the electric connectors. They may not be of the best quality. I may replace with soldered connections. Will also double check the ground.
I'll post back how it goes, and check here now and then for any new suggestions.
You could hook a jumper to the motors once you have the door panel off and see if it works any better than it does now. If it does then yes the wiring may be the problem. If not then the motors maybe. I would check them really good while the panels are off to watch them operate and see what is going on.
You may want to add some relays to the system to get full voltage to the motors.
1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse
Edited by Andy4639 on 11-01-19 11:59 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
Shane...I haven't tackled it yet. I'm working on some re-wiring under the dash right now.
Once I finish with that, I will tackle the windows. I have tried silicone spray in the tracks before, which seemed to help a little, temporarily.
I plan to do the suggested test to see if it is getting enough electricity. As I think back on it, I'm not thinking the connectors I purchased in the end aren't that great.
They seat correctly. Albeit, on the passenger side, I have to help it the last 1/2" to get a full seat.
My auto rollup system rolls the front windows up first, then the quarters. Driver side, fully seats most of the time until lately. Pass side alwasy needs help now, both front and back.
Auto roll-up works like this: when I stop the engine, get out of car, walk away far enough for the doors to lock, the windows will roll up. It's part of the keyless entry system. I can turn that off with a toggle switch.
If I roll the quarters up first the front windows will contact them before fully up and the friction will stop then from completing roll up for sure, for both windows.
I put a socket sidways in the channel, pressed down (effort to widen the strip a bit), and moved it up and down the strip
Sanded the fuzz
Executed same effort on the back channel. It was a bit tight, and this helped that channel
The results are that the window does roll up all the way, albeit slowly.
Interestingly, as I roll it up, if I pull the window toward the back, ie. more into the rear channel, it rolls up a bit faster.
Not that I care how fast it rolls up, but if it is slow, my experience is that ultimately it will not fully roll up.
I don't expect there is any resolution to the pull it back scenario, but a short video below to demonstrate. Interested if anyone has thoughts for a resolution to that:
The channel at the rear of the vent window needs to be adjusted at its base closer to the side window. I don't think there is any significant adjustment for the rear channel. Do you have shop and assembly manuals?
The channel at the rear of the vent window needs to be adjusted at its base closer to the side window. I don't think there is any significant adjustment for the rear channel. Do you have shop and assembly manuals?
I do have manuals, I'll give 'em a look.
Just for my education, what are you seeing that gives the clue to adjust the screw at the lower vent window?
kingkreeton Said:
What is New Relic's saying when you spoke to them. I'm assuming the window motors have their own relays to prevent voltage drop?
I have yet to call Nu-Relics. I thought I'd exhaust the suggestions here, etc. before calling them.
I was able to check the voltage based on pulling the plug and putting a tester on that. It had 13.2v. But when I hook the plug on, I don't have a way to check that. I suppose I could find the wires feeding the motor back in the kick panel and strip a couple places to hook up and test under power.
The kits do not come with relays, and I did not add them.
FYI...I don't recall if I mentioned...but the passenger window does not roll up all the way, but I'm not confident that will continue. It rolled up all the way in the past. I'm sure spraying silicone in the tracks will help, but only temporarily.
I plan to go ahead and call Nu-Relics on Monday at this point.
Did you use American Autowire wiring harnesses or original power window wiring harnesses?
I used new exact match American Autowire power window wiring harnesses and pigtails with a vertical switch from Nu Relics.
I did not like the NuRelics power window wiring - to long, mounting to doors and 1/4s did not fit, etc.
They do not use relays the wiring plugs into factory style power window switches.
We/I have 3 sets of NuRelics power windows on 3 different 62’s never any issues with power/ the ground wire is important on each door or 1/4 from what I found.
Paul
57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible http://paulstensland.com
It almost sounds like the window channel that the rollers are running in is tilted just a bit forward. See if you can get it to tilt back a little it may solve your issue.
It almost sounds like the window channel that the rollers are running in is tilted just a bit forward. See if you can get it to tilt back a little it may solve your issue.
There are 2 hex bolts that hold the track for rolling the window up and down located near the arm rest mount. One of the bolts has a vertical slot that adjusts the tilt of the door glass. Try adjusting to slide up ( as I recall)
Paul
57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible http://paulstensland.com
The adjustment for the window is at the bottom of the front track is already at Justins park towards the windows it will go. The adjustments for the track back by the Breast are adjusted with the four went up in the back one down.
What I find as I play with the window more that what appeared to be sliding back in my video, it's actually raising the window up-and-down what a little bit of play from the wheel that glides in that track. I raising that up it's taking any pressure of the wheel and that track off making for less drag as it rolls the window up.
Getting to feel like I'm at the end of any changes I can make to this to try to improve it.
I called Dusty at Nu-Relics this morning. He said to test with a better ground. Currentlyu grounded to the door.
I ran a test wire outside the car to the battery, and hooked the ground directly to that wire. It did not help.
Next step is Dusty is going to send me 2 front replacement motors. If that does not help, he said he can put a spring on the regulators that will tighten as the window comes down, and then help with the window coming up. Of course I'd have to send him the regulators.
He said there are a couple cars that need that help, but typically not a 61.
I have to give props to Nu-Relics. Fast turn-around. I sent the regulators on Monday, got them back today.
I also found some more butt-connected wires (I used different switches from the Nu-Relics, and incorporating those resulted in several butt connectors. As well, mly incorporation of the electronics to auto roll the windows up, and/or respond to the remote, also introduced several connectors).
So, I finally got all the but connectors removed, wires soldered, and shrink wrapped.
Between that and the springs Nu-Relics installed, the windows are working better than ever now.
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