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Username Post: Electric windows won't roll up all the way - RESOLVED        (Topic#358554)
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-23-19 07:11 AM - Post#2778572    

I have new relics power windows, and the front ones have difficulty rolling up all the way.

I have tried spraying silicon in the channels and it seems to help for a short while. I've tried messing with adjustments and just don't seem to get it to work well.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


Edited by 56_Kruiser on 12-06-19 06:19 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3171

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
10-28-19 03:09 PM - Post#2778982    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Your channel replacement material is too tight, causing too much drag. Try rubbing some 320 sandpaper on one side of the fuzzy material to see if you can loosen it up. The other thought is that you are not getting full voltage to the motors, or the motors are failing to develop full torque to the regulators. What does the company that you purchased them from have to say about the problem?

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1354
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
10-29-19 05:14 AM - Post#2779012    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

The back and vent windows roll up fine?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
Nu-Relics 
Nu-Relics Power Windows (Site Sponsor)
Posts: 32
Nu-Relics
Reg: 05-24-17
10-29-19 05:49 AM - Post#2779018    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Hi Guys, This is Dusty from Nu-Relics Power Windows. We do not normally have any trouble with the 61-64 Impalas lifting and sealing up. The suggestion about the felt runners is good. There is a lot of variation in parts out there these days so that may be part of the problem. Make sure your wiring harness has a good chassis ground. Please feel free to call me at 336-699-8949.



 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1386

Age: 59
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
10-30-19 06:17 PM - Post#2779165    
    In response to Nu-Relics

Make sure the rollers are all in their right channels and put some Lithium Grease in there also. Make sure all the bolts holding them in place are tight and not binding up the assembly.


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-01-19 09:41 AM - Post#2779304    
    In response to Andy4639

I appreciate all the replies everyone.

I will chased down all suggestions and see how it goes.

IN answer to a couple of the questions: the rear windows roll up fine. The vent windows are not on power.

I did grease the rollers, in fact also put on new ones. But I will revisit that.

On the felt, I'll definitely work on that. I used what was provided by Ecklers.

I do have suspicions about the electric connectors. They may not be of the best quality. I may replace with soldered connections. Will also double check the ground.

I'll post back how it goes, and check here now and then for any new suggestions.


1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1386

Age: 59
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
11-01-19 11:59 AM - Post#2779314    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

You could hook a jumper to the motors once you have the door panel off and see if it works any better than it does now. If it does then yes the wiring may be the problem. If not then the motors maybe. I would check them really good while the panels are off to watch them operate and see what is going on.
You may want to add some relays to the system to get full voltage to the motors.


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


Edited by Andy4639 on 11-01-19 11:59 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-03-19 05:48 PM - Post#2779486    
    In response to Andy4639

Great suggestions. Thanks!

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1354
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
11-11-19 12:45 PM - Post#2779987    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Roger, any luck with the windows?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-11-19 03:13 PM - Post#2779994    
    In response to kingkreeton

Shane...I haven't tackled it yet. I'm working on some re-wiring under the dash right now.

Once I finish with that, I will tackle the windows. I have tried silicone spray in the tracks before, which seemed to help a little, temporarily.

I plan to do the suggested test to see if it is getting enough electricity. As I think back on it, I'm not thinking the connectors I purchased in the end aren't that great.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-17-19 05:58 AM - Post#2780341    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I have the driver's door panel off. This window has gone all the way up until recently. Now it stops about 1/2" from full up.

The felt in the back channel is very thin. I will try the sandpaper trick on it.

I did check voltage at the plug to the motor, and it had 12.5 volts.

One thing for sure...they won't roll up fully for sure if the back windows are up and it has to fight the friction on the rubber of the back windows.

After I complete the suggestions here, I will give Nu-Relics a call.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1386

Age: 59
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
11-17-19 05:41 PM - Post#2780395    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Do you have the rear quarter windows adjust right. You have to play with them and the door glass to seat them correctly.


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-18-19 06:22 PM - Post#2780463    
    In response to Andy4639

They seat correctly. Albeit, on the passenger side, I have to help it the last 1/2" to get a full seat.

My auto rollup system rolls the front windows up first, then the quarters. Driver side, fully seats most of the time until lately. Pass side alwasy needs help now, both front and back.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
ayelander 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
ayelander
Loc: Oak Island NC
Reg: 12-07-18
11-18-19 07:26 PM - Post#2780469    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I dont know what an "auto rollup" system is but I always run the quarters up first, then the doors.

Ayelander - Oak Island NC
1963 Impala SS,500 HP,EFI 383 Stroker,Tremec 6 Speed Manual
1974 Corvette, 454 cu in, 4 Speed Manual
1951 Chevy 3100 Truck, 261 cu in, Dual 2-bbl Webers, Fenton Split Exhaust
2016 Chevy High Country, Diesel, Dually


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-19-19 05:21 AM - Post#2780483    
    In response to ayelander

Auto roll-up works like this: when I stop the engine, get out of car, walk away far enough for the doors to lock, the windows will roll up. It's part of the keyless entry system. I can turn that off with a toggle switch.

If I roll the quarters up first the front windows will contact them before fully up and the friction will stop then from completing roll up for sure, for both windows.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-23-19 06:23 AM - Post#2780811    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Following task done:

  • Pulled window
  • Pulled the wing window
  • Pulled the felt strip
  • I put a socket sidways in the channel, pressed down (effort to widen the strip a bit), and moved it up and down the strip
  • Sanded the fuzz
  • Executed same effort on the back channel. It was a bit tight, and this helped that channel


The results are that the window does roll up all the way, albeit slowly.

Interestingly, as I roll it up, if I pull the window toward the back, ie. more into the rear channel, it rolls up a bit faster.

Not that I care how fast it rolls up, but if it is slow, my experience is that ultimately it will not fully roll up.

I don't expect there is any resolution to the pull it back scenario, but a short video below to demonstrate. Interested if anyone has thoughts for a resolution to that:

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1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 288
55Brodie
Age: 67
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
11-23-19 06:42 AM - Post#2780812    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

The channel at the rear of the vent window needs to be adjusted at its base closer to the side window. I don't think there is any significant adjustment for the rear channel. Do you have shop and assembly manuals?



 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1354
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
11-23-19 06:50 AM - Post#2780815    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

What is New Relic's saying when you spoke to them. I'm assuming the window motors have their own relays to prevent voltage drop?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-23-19 12:23 PM - Post#2780832    
    In response to 55Brodie

  • 55Brodie Said:
The channel at the rear of the vent window needs to be adjusted at its base closer to the side window. I don't think there is any significant adjustment for the rear channel. Do you have shop and assembly manuals?



I do have manuals, I'll give 'em a look.

Just for my education, what are you seeing that gives the clue to adjust the screw at the lower vent window?

  • kingkreeton Said:
What is New Relic's saying when you spoke to them. I'm assuming the window motors have their own relays to prevent voltage drop?



I have yet to call Nu-Relics. I thought I'd exhaust the suggestions here, etc. before calling them.

I was able to check the voltage based on pulling the plug and putting a tester on that. It had 13.2v. But when I hook the plug on, I don't have a way to check that. I suppose I could find the wires feeding the motor back in the kick panel and strip a couple places to hook up and test under power.

The kits do not come with relays, and I did not add them.

FYI...I don't recall if I mentioned...but the passenger window does not roll up all the way, but I'm not confident that will continue. It rolled up all the way in the past. I'm sure spraying silicone in the tracks will help, but only temporarily.

I plan to go ahead and call Nu-Relics on Monday at this point.

I will do the adjustment that 55Brodie suggested.


1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1354
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
11-23-19 03:21 PM - Post#2780836    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

If the kits don't come with relays then I doubt it is necessary. I was just wondering about that and thought I would ask.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 288
55Brodie
Age: 67
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
11-23-19 03:47 PM - Post#2780838    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

In your video I am seeing the side glass' ability to move fore and aft. It should not be sloppy in the channels.



 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2645
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
11-23-19 03:52 PM - Post#2780839    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Did you use American Autowire wiring harnesses or original power window wiring harnesses?
I used new exact match American Autowire power window wiring harnesses and pigtails with a vertical switch from Nu Relics.

I did not like the NuRelics power window wiring - to long, mounting to doors and 1/4s did not fit, etc.

They do not use relays the wiring plugs into factory style power window switches.

We/I have 3 sets of NuRelics power windows on 3 different 62’s never any issues with power/ the ground wire is important on each door or 1/4 from what I found.
Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
turbo38s10 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1702
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
11-24-19 05:40 AM - Post#2780856    
    In response to pvs409

It almost sounds like the window channel that the rollers are running in is tilted just a bit forward. See if you can get it to tilt back a little it may solve your issue.



 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2645
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
11-24-19 07:11 AM - Post#2780857    
    In response to turbo38s10

  • turbo38s10 Said:
It almost sounds like the window channel that the rollers are running in is tilted just a bit forward. See if you can get it to tilt back a little it may solve your issue.



There are 2 hex bolts that hold the track for rolling the window up and down located near the arm rest mount. One of the bolts has a vertical slot that adjusts the tilt of the door glass. Try adjusting to slide up ( as I recall)

Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-24-19 08:39 AM - Post#2780863    
    In response to pvs409

Thanks everyone for the input. I'll go down the list of thoughts and check it all out.

  • pvs409 Said:
Did you use American Autowire wiring harnesses or original power window wiring harnesses?

I used new exact match American Autowire power window wiring harnesses and pigtails with a vertical switch from Nu Relics.

... the ground wire is important on each door or 1/4 from what I found.
Paul



I used the wiring harnesses that came with the units.

Regarding the ground, I have the gnd wires on a screw to the door. Do think I need to do more?



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-24-19 09:22 AM - Post#2780867    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

The adjustment for the window is at the bottom of the front track is already at Justins park towards the windows it will go. The adjustments for the track back by the Breast are adjusted with the four went up in the back one down.

What I find as I play with the window more that what appeared to be sliding back in my video, it's actually raising the window up-and-down what a little bit of play from the wheel that glides in that track. I raising that up it's taking any pressure of the wheel and that track off making for less drag as it rolls the window up.

Getting to feel like I'm at the end of any changes I can make to this to try to improve it.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-26-19 08:12 AM - Post#2780986    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I called Dusty at Nu-Relics this morning. He said to test with a better ground. Currentlyu grounded to the door.

I ran a test wire outside the car to the battery, and hooked the ground directly to that wire. It did not help.

Next step is Dusty is going to send me 2 front replacement motors. If that does not help, he said he can put a spring on the regulators that will tighten as the window comes down, and then help with the window coming up. Of course I'd have to send him the regulators.

He said there are a couple cars that need that help, but typically not a 61.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2878
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
12-06-19 06:19 PM - Post#2781624    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I have success.

I have to give props to Nu-Relics. Fast turn-around. I sent the regulators on Monday, got them back today.

I also found some more butt-connected wires (I used different switches from the Nu-Relics, and incorporating those resulted in several butt connectors. As well, mly incorporation of the electronics to auto roll the windows up, and/or respond to the remote, also introduced several connectors).

So, I finally got all the but connectors removed, wires soldered, and shrink wrapped.

Between that and the springs Nu-Relics installed, the windows are working better than ever now.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1354
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
12-07-19 07:05 AM - Post#2781640    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

That is great news Roger. It's nice to hear a manufacture standing by the product and offering great customer service.

Do you wish you called them earlier now?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 


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