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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: New Member! Powerglide trouble!        (Topic#358094)
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-17-19 07:54 PM - Post#2775764    

Hey all! I just purchased a beautiful 53' Chevy 210 4 door. 235 v6 with a cast iron powerglide.
The car is very stock and original seems almost untouched.

I bought the Car a week ago and during my (very long) test drive with the previous owner the car drove incredible and shifted flawlessly. Ended up making the deal and driving the car home 30 minute drive and not a single hiccup, I was in love.


The next morning, drove the car to work to show it off to the guys and on the way, still no hiccups just beautiful shifting and driving.

after work halfway home, accelerating from a stop, the powerglide was about to shift into high (2nd) and it slipped, engine just revved high. now, every single time it slipps and wont go into second, unless i completely let go of the throttle for 3-4 seconds and ease into it. and now its literally every single time. I have not even touched the car yet. (Low gear and Reverse work perfect)

A coincidence that the transmission blew the day after i bought it?

ive checked the fluid and it is extremely clean and red, and where its supposed to be. i even changed the fluid myself to be sure, still slipped.

Today i pulled the governor to see its condition and it looked good/ok to me


here are some photos to introduce my new chevy.
any help getting me back and shifting would be awesome!





Edited by Chevelle on 10-11-19 07:50 AM. Reason for edit: Removed bad links to images at tinypic

 


2blu52 
"18th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 19002
2blu52
Age: 86
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
09-17-19 08:02 PM - Post#2775766    
    In response to AKChevy

Beautiful car, but it is not a V-6. Inline 6 is correct. With that I will shut up as I have no experience with the PG transmissions, loved the sound of some one hot on the gas pedal with a splitmanifold, Smithy mufflers though.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5668
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-17-19 08:08 PM - Post#2775767    
    In response to AKChevy

Low band adjustment would be my guess. Here's where a service manual comes in handy. Otherwise, for what they'd want to rebuild your Powerglide, especially in California, I'd swap to a V-8/TH-350/Tri-Five rear end, and terrorize the freeways.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery




 
RAM_51 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5378
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
09-17-19 09:56 PM - Post#2775769    
    In response to AKChevy

Yeah, I'm kind of interested in this too as my Fleetline is a PowerGlide car. The best I can do is provide a link to the Shop Manual starting at the Unusual Conditions Diagnosis for the 1950-52 Chevrolet PowerGlide. If you keep paging forward, you will arrive at the 1953 PowerGlide info.

LINK:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...

1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-18-19 11:16 AM - Post#2775812    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

If my low band was out of adjustment wouldn’t that mean my low and reverse would not be functioning properly? I just placed an order for the service manual



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5668
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-18-19 12:03 PM - Post#2775814    
    In response to AKChevy


Reverse has a separate band in the cast iron Powerglides, so reverse would not be affected. If the low band is worn, or adjusted incorrectly, it will cause the flareup you describe at the 1-2 shift. If allowed to continue, it will burn the band up; it may already be too far gone to adjust out, and can cause the direct drum to be heat damaged, or worse yet, torn up by a worn band (metal to metal). Finding hard parts can be a problem for these old transmissions, and they seem to cost more to repair/rebuild than more modern transmissions. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-18-19 12:40 PM - Post#2775818    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Makes sense, hoping it’s just out of adjustment since the fluid is very clean and dosnt smell funky.

What’s the specific procedure to adjust the low band. Did Tons of research but so many different model Powerglides out there I got confused. Also the torque spec of the adjustment bolt seems to vary depending on what I read



 
porters 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
porters
Loc: minnesota
Reg: 09-21-10
09-18-19 02:44 PM - Post#2775824    
    In response to AKChevy

Hi I hope you find a solution to your problem. Not to rain on your problem, but I would like to know more about the neat lowered Mercedes next to your Chevy AWESOME. Thanks Mike



 
porters 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
porters
Loc: minnesota
Reg: 09-21-10
09-18-19 02:45 PM - Post#2775825    
    In response to AKChevy

Hi I hope you find a solution to your problem. Not to rain on your problem, but I would like to know more about the neat lowered Mercedes next to your Chevy AWESOME. Thanks Mike



 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1850

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
09-18-19 02:50 PM - Post#2775826    
    In response to AKChevy

Make sure you have good vacuum to the trans modulator. Plus it could be bad, the symptoms match the diagnosis for a modulator issue.



 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-18-19 04:27 PM - Post#2775834    
    In response to Shepherd

I was trying to find a modulator on my trans but couldn’t find it.

Anybody have a picture of it on a 53 Powerglide. The photos online look like a vacuum advance plunger. Don’t have anything that looks like that on my trans



 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-18-19 05:47 PM - Post#2775840    
    In response to porters

Haha, that’s my baby. It’s a bagged w108 280 1971



 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8722

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
09-18-19 06:37 PM - Post#2775848    
    In response to AKChevy

The ONLY way to fix a Powerglide ----------------- or any other auto tranny, is to remove it from the car and throw it in the river!



 
rrausch 
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14086
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
09-18-19 06:44 PM - Post#2775850    
    In response to DZAUTO

Naw. Keep that puppy just like it is. One of my favorite cars was a '53 4-door with PG that I drove in '68 and '69.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5668
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-18-19 07:31 PM - Post#2775852    
    In response to rrausch

I have to agree with Tom/DZAUTO, as far as the cast iron Powerglide goes. But, to adjust the low band, loosen the lock nut, torque the adjusting screw to 5-7 FOOT POUNDS (usually, bands are adjusted in INCH POUNDS, but that's what the book says, 5-7 FT POUNDS), then back off exactly 4 complete turns, and reset the lock nut. That's per my 1959 Motors Manual. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-18-19 08:56 PM - Post#2775857    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

So I just tried for the life of me I couldn’t get the cap off the low band adjustment screw. Is it just a push on? It wouldn’t budge. I work at a performance shop for newer cars so I’m pretty inclined with tools. I tried a flat head and a light hammer, I tried channel locks, I tried my super strong muscles (haha jk). Nothing took the cap off



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5668
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-18-19 11:25 PM - Post#2775863    
    In response to AKChevy

Just a pressed in metal cap; probably been there since the car was new. Use some channel-lock pliers and twist back/forth, then pull.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12248

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
09-19-19 06:25 AM - Post#2775872    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

It is not the low band or govenor.
On a up-shift from low to drive the chutches are engauging.
It could be the low-drive valve body bolted to the left side of the transmission or an internal seal blew-out.

This is something that happened after you purchased the car - not sellers fault.........sorry.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
gcrkfrd 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 90
gcrkfrd
Age: 72
Loc: Neosho, MO.
Reg: 04-01-18
09-19-19 06:51 AM - Post#2775876    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

The 62 CI PG I used in my 52, oozed through the shift, and sometimes did not shift. New Modulator fixed that.



 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8722

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
09-19-19 07:05 AM - Post#2775877    
    In response to gcrkfrd

Oh ya, and by the way, this is an option to a PG --------------- it's called a Muncie.



Attachment: 100_4112-1.jpg (62.02 KB) 1 View(s)




Attachment: 100_4114-1.jpg (62.76 KB) 3 View(s)






 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-19-19 01:09 PM - Post#2775891    
    In response to gcrkfrd

I’m having a hard time finding anything for this 53 trans. Want to order a modulator and a governor gear but can’t find them! Any recommendations on where to order?



 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1850

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
09-19-19 02:48 PM - Post#2775903    
    In response to AKChevy

Check with Fatsco, in NJ.



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5668
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-19-19 03:03 PM - Post#2775905    
    In response to AKChevy

E-Bay can be a good source for outdated parts, such as early Powerglide stuff. But, don't just start replacing parts without first diagnosing what the issue actually is. An example: My younger brother had a 56 Chevrolet, L-O-N-G box step-side truck with a "rebuilt" 283. He worked for the State some 300 miles from home, and would come home every few weeks. He'd go fishing/hunting with his friends for a weekend, then go back to his "home". On one of these trips, his truck starting acting up; he's not much of a mechanic, and his approach was to start replacing parts. Carburetor, fuel pump, ignition parts followed by a new distributor, plug wires, plugs, and on-and-on. He'd take the bus to the family home, borrow my Father's truck, and go work on his. This went on for 3 weeks, before I could go with him, to at least tow his truck home; I'd rented a U-Haul tow-bar just in case. He got in the truck, it started right up, but after a mile or so, it quit on him; we'd let it sit, then try again, and it would do the same thing. So, I got in his truck and gave it a go. After it died again, and rolled to the shoulder of the freeway, I tossed a bottle of 99% ethanol alcohol I'd brought along, into the tank, and he drove it the rest of the way home. All it had was water in the gas! He spent a LOT of $$$ going back and forth, and just replacing parts, rather than actually figuring out was wrong. It's why I first said, "get a manual", when I first responded to your thread, and look into the transmission trouble-shooting section. You may not be able to repair the transmission, but you also should't just throw money at it without knowing what it really needs. These old cars can be a lot of fun, but they can also drive you nuts, and cost you a lot of $$$, and if the transmission needs an overhaul, then you'll need all the $$$ you can scrape together. It won't be cheap to have someone overhaul an old Powerglide, and I don't understand why it costs so much. I suppose it's because they can. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




Edited by 56sedandelivery on 09-19-19 03:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Airlifter 
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 620
Airlifter
Age: 74
Loc: Tazewell county, Virginia
Reg: 06-07-15
09-19-19 05:38 PM - Post#2775918    
    In response to AKChevy

Chevys of the forties has rebuild kits.

1951 styline deluxe sport coupe w/'60 261 engine & 54 powerglide


 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-19-19 07:46 PM - Post#2775928    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Just adjusted the low band and nothing changed. I have a little better description on how the car is acting now, after driving it again.


If I push the throttle a little more than 15-20% in DRIVE T he engine just revs up (“slips”)

If I’m in LOW or REV, works perfectly

if I accelerate at 15% throttle and ease into the shift (slightly let off, then get back on it to 15%) all is good, but once I push a couple millimeters more on the pedal engine just revs up crazy.

I recorded a video I will try to upload shortly



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5668
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
09-19-19 08:12 PM - Post#2775931    
    In response to AKChevy

I have been exactly where you are right now. It's why I said "low band"; mine was really torn up, and the direct drum had to be replaced (a 16 year old can destroy a Powerglide in the blink of an eye), it was burned/chewed up. The "hard part" of R an R'ing a Powerglide with a torque-tube, is getting it out of the car, and then back in; it's R and R'd through the floorboards, removable, hump. Again, E-Bay for parts and rebuild kits (probably cheaper-???). There are a couple of complete transmissions there currently; shipping is most likely the issue ($$$). I am Butch/56sedandelivery.





 
dsacton 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1167
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
09-23-19 12:59 PM - Post#2776258    
    In response to AKChevy

AK--

I am no expert, except that I have a '54 PG. But what you describe just sounds like it is low on transmission fluid. If it sits around a while, it can burp out without you knowing it. My 2 cents.



Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12248

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
09-23-19 03:14 PM - Post#2776275    
    In response to AKChevy

When it shifts from low to drive the low band releases and the clutch discs apply.
Either the material on the discs turned to mush or could be a pressure problem.
The shop manual states what pressures should be at the various locations.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 804
ragtp66
Reg: 12-09-07
09-23-19 09:05 PM - Post#2776309    
    In response to AKChevy

For parts David Edwards http://www.autotran.us/ had everything I needed for my Iron glide. Curious to know what fluid you used I am not looking to open a can of worms because EVERYBODY has their own opinion. I was told that the Ford Type F fluid is the closest thing to the original fluid and to use it in the old glide.

Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
AKChevy 
Poster
Posts: 14

Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-16-19
09-23-19 09:07 PM - Post#2776310    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

Thank you for all your inputs. I’m having it checked out by an old timer transmission shop that’s familiar with these powerglides. I I’ll report back what he finds out!



 


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