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Username Post: Under Dashboard Wiring Question        (Topic#358048)
belairbob50 
Contributor
Posts: 348

Loc: OH where rust never sleep...
Reg: 03-17-13
09-14-19 07:13 PM - Post#2775526    

There are three major items under the dash: the speedometer cluster, the light switch and the junction board. Do I pre-wire all three items and try to install them in the dash OR do I install the three items first and try to attached all the wire? What did you do?



 


RAM_51 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5375
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
09-14-19 08:06 PM - Post#2775531    
    In response to belairbob50

I've had the cluster and the light switch out of my '50. I hooked up or re-hooked up the light switch from inside the car just below the dash then put it in place and secured it. I did the cluster both from the cowl access panel and from under the dash as well....kind of a combination of the two as needed. I've never unhooked everything from the junction board...just added a few items / wires to it. Again kind of from underneath and verified through the access panel. The wires in my harness are sort of trained to go to a certain place so that made things a little easier. It certainly would have been a lot easier without the front seat in the car and maybe the pedals dropped to the floor also.

1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
kensluys 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1351
kensluys
Loc: Bellingham, WA, USA
Reg: 04-18-01
09-15-19 12:15 AM - Post#2775543    
    In response to RAM_51

I did the same as RAM51. In fact, I think I had the headlight switch out and back in a few times. I tried using the original one, but the rheostat wasn't working well. I finally bought a replacement switch and swapped the wires onto the terminals there.

I did mine before I reinstalled the interior, and as RAM51 suggested, it was MUCH easier without the front seat in!

1951 Bel Air - January build date.


 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3320
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-15-19 12:08 PM - Post#2775576    
    In response to kensluys

There Is an access panel under the hood for the speedometer, I did as much as I could NOT under the dash.

As for the rheostat, using the tail light terminal instead of the dash light terminal will Carry you through but with full brightness dash lights and no way to turn them down

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3320
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-15-19 12:14 PM - Post#2775578    
    In response to drew1987

Also,

Maybe it’s bad practice but at times I left enough wire to make my connections outside of the dash and then zip tied

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
belairbob50 
Contributor
Posts: 348

Loc: OH where rust never sleep...
Reg: 03-17-13
09-15-19 07:29 PM - Post#2775613    
    In response to drew1987

The biggest problem I'm having is the new harness has to be formed to fit. The thickness is difficult to shape up inside the dash. So I unbolted the speedometer cluster, the light switch and the under dash junction block and let the harness down close to the floor. I sorted out the wires so I can visualize where they will end up and started to shape the harness. Now I will have to wait a couple of days. I scratched the speedometer bezel going in or out. The first coat is drying and tomorrow, hopefully, the second coat will go on. Seams like I'm always backing up instead of going forward.

[image]https://[/image]



 


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