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Username Post: Electric fans        (Topic#357976)
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-08-19 05:32 PM - Post#2775073    

Hey all!

I was thinking about doing an electric fan. I built that shroud out of the snow men jersey bedsheet that came to me for packaging (hilarious. The snowmen are visible through the glass) but never bothered installing it as my fan is probably 20-25% out of the surface area of my radiator's cooling surface. Being familiar with Asian cars, I know 2006-2009 Hyundai Sonatas have fans that are pretty close to the size of my radiator. I can wire it up with a relay. I'd like to know:

1) Generic relay - what do I ask for at the parts counter

2) Temp sensor - I want it to keep the car at 160f. Whats the advantages/disadvantages of putting an electric sensor in the intake manifold VS one of those ones that probe the actual radiator. I could also throw it in where my petcock is and take it out to drain

3)Guys I know have wired thier to stay on even when the car is "off" to keep it cool. My car can spike from 160f to like 180f+ after I shut it off. What are you all doing?


thanks!



Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 


50 sport coupe 
Poster
Posts: 6

Age: 50
Loc: Mohnton , Pennsylvania
Reg: 02-15-19
09-09-19 11:41 PM - Post#2775210    
    In response to drew1987

Drew I have a sbc also in my 50 , my mechanical fan aligned very poorly with my radiator so I did some research and found this thread , http://nastyz28.com/threads/taurus-fan.192920/ I then hit my local pull a part and found all of the parts suggested in the thread , I think I paid around $25 for everything I needed , bmw sensor , Volvo relay and Volvo fan !

I installed the bmw sensor in my manifold , the fan I installed behind the rad in a shroud I fabbed from a stop sign , and used the Volvo relay to control everything , I also added an extra relay so the ground wire on the sensor only gets ground when the cars ignition is on so the system can only run when the car is so it doesn’t run down the battery ! Thus far it still hasn’t gotten hot enough to kick on the fans high speed !!

That link has a wring diagram that you may find helpful too and there are a bunch of videos on YouTube about those Volvo/ Taurus fans ( super high efficiency) too
Using this set up I completely eliminated the mechanical fan !



 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-10-19 02:38 AM - Post#2775212    
    In response to 50 sport coupe

This seems awesome! Thank you. I am not sure where to source the temp sensors though because I want to run at 165 or 185 and they were talking about 91-99°c which is is almost 198°f

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 09-10-19 02:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-10-19 02:44 AM - Post#2775213    
    In response to drew1987

These look great. 99 Camry 2006 sonata and this 2006ish Honda Pilot all are the right shape, lightweight plastic shroud built in. Only one speed though. I wonder if this is a viable option? Keeps the pilot cool. I have an odyssey- same thing. It’s a beast. 4500lb vehicle that can seat 8 adults while towing 3500lbs at 85mph with the AC on. I imagine that fan has to be pretty good


I am going to look into how to measure amps draw

Attachment: ECAC7E15-6FE1-4F42-951C-C6F85F676D11.jpeg (188.13 KB) 6 View(s)




Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 09-10-19 02:44 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-10-19 03:07 AM - Post#2775216    
    In response to drew1987

This also begs the question again. 160 or 180f? I was 180 for a while but in looking for better carb performance I went with 160. Strange when I shot it off it creeps up to 190f anyway but runs at 160 unless in traffic (hence the reason i started this topic )

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
usmile4 
"11th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4255
usmile4
Age: 72
Loc: Aurora, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
09-10-19 09:41 AM - Post#2775251    
    In response to drew1987

I don't have a V8 in my 51, I have a overboard 235 with dual carbs running the stock fan. So when I added AC, I was running into some overheating issues as the condenser mounts in front of the stock radiator. I tried doing a shroud but it was just too tight. I ended up finding two 10" fans from a Range Rover in my local U-Pick-It.



I wired them up so if the stock fan was doing an alright job, the electric fans would not come on. I also added an adjustable temp probe to turn them on when the temp got to a certain range, and also a manual switch so if I was stopped in traffic, I could manually turn them on before the temp got to the temp probe setting.



This is the temp probe. It is just strapped to the lower radiator hose.

It is adjustable with the unit below, so I just used trial and error with my temp gauge to set it to go on at a temp I felt compfortable with. I run a 180 thermostat, so I have the fans come on about 200 by my inside temp gauge.



This is my switch inside the car (since painted to almost disappear under the dash.) All the way left is manual on, all the way right is low RPM (more about this later), and in the center is normal running where the fans will turn on with the temp probe. The two LED lights go on when the fans turn on as a visual but really not needed as I can hear them, although it is nice when the fans have turned on because of rising heat and then when it cools down again when driving I can see that they have turned off.



Below is how it is wired using relays and wires from my Rebel Wire 20 circuit system.



I also have an MSD 8950 Rev switch. When the toggle is in the right position, the fans will turn on when the RPM drops below 1500 rpm and turn off when I'm back to cruising speed. After running it for several years, I think this might be overkill. Although I do use this when it is very hot out and using the AC as I know whenever I'm at idle, the fans are on and then when I'm back to speed, they turn off.

With the switch in the manual position, if I turn off the car but keep the ignition to on, the fans will run, but I seldom do this as I don't want to run down the battery.



Attachment: fan1.jpg (47.35 KB) 2 View(s)
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Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
50 sport coupe 
Poster
Posts: 6

Age: 50
Loc: Mohnton , Pennsylvania
Reg: 02-15-19
09-10-19 11:49 AM - Post#2775262    
    In response to drew1987

Drew , I opted to use the Volvo fan for two reasons - 1) I had already built the basis of the shroud I used and only had to make minor mods to use the Volvo fan
2 ) because the Volvo/ Taurus fan is high output , it moves approximately 3500 cfm !
Just an FYI the Taurus fan also is incorporated into its own shroud so only modifications would be needed to install one , I had already built a shroud so I opted to use the Volvo version which is separate
Also the bmw temp sensors are offered in two different heat ranges , I found the lower of the two in my case
Also another thing I forgot to mention earlier , was that I made my own thread adapter / reducer for the bmw sensor to fit my manifold from an old broken gm temp sensor that fits the side of the block in a sbc , I just cut it above the needed threads and had a friend tap the inside to the 14mm thread that the bmw sensor is
Also the entire set up runs off of 40 amps which was not an issue at all to my 120amp alternator



Edited by 50 sport coupe on 09-10-19 11:58 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-11-19 04:44 AM - Post#2775318    
    In response to 50 sport coupe

awesome! both of you made a great setup.

So does it make sense to put the temp sensor in the the block rather than the radiator? my modern cars have on in the radiator. Also, I found a 160f indicator light sending unit sensor in NPT for an SBC, if I wired that to a relay and directly to a fan, I imagine it would be constant on and off in short cycles, right? I see the volvo thing has an on temp and an off temp

I can also see using a 160 sensor but a 170 tstat if one exists?

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
40grit 
Contributor
Posts: 553
40grit
Age: 74
Loc: Chattanooga, Tn
Reg: 07-08-13
09-11-19 05:53 AM - Post#2775323    
    In response to drew1987

I have the sensor in the bottom of the radiator on my roadster. It works fine but there are some consequences.

In the bottom of the radiator it is reading the coolant temp leaving the radiator, not the temp in the motor. Under light load or idling my fan cycles 180-185 degrees as I have it set with a Cooling Components adjustable sensor. On the highway under heavy load, it will not come on until about 195 because it doesn't "see" the hotter water going into the radiator but instead the temperature of water going into the engine.

I do have an override switch I can turn on if I know I am going to be pulling a long steep grade but rarely use it. As long as the motor is under 200, I am comfortable with it.

One other peculiar thing about the electric fan and shroud. On the highway, on a 95* day at 65mph, the engine will run 195* or so without the fan being on. Turning the fan on will drop it to 185*. You would think at that speed the fan would be irrelevant but in fact, if it is not running it becomes a obstruction to the air passing through the radiator. The manufacturer actually put rubber flaps in the shroud to try to limit this effect.

While electric fan has worked well for me, I am trying to maintain a mechanical fan with the big block in the '53.

John

Just Slightly Abrasive


 
50 sport coupe 
Poster
Posts: 6

Age: 50
Loc: Mohnton , Pennsylvania
Reg: 02-15-19
09-11-19 02:05 PM - Post#2775351    
    In response to drew1987

I installed my temp sensor in the block / manifold based on the fact that’s where GM installed them , however the bmw sensors factory location was in the side of the bmw’s radiator ( crossflow )
I also used a relay mounting bracket I sourced from a s-10 truck at the pick n pull to mount all of the control relays on , it was originally 4 slots I just cut one off since I only needed 3 mounting slots for relays
FYI I also found lots of useful ideas researching the subject on YouTube

Also the flaps in the shroud are a good idea , both the factory Volvo and ford shrouds had flaps to allow better air flow when the fan isn’t running



Edited by 50 sport coupe on 09-11-19 02:08 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-11-19 07:15 PM - Post#2775365    
    In response to 50 sport coupe

I will look into and try to better understand. I am wondering if a Simple sensor of the same temp as the tstat wired to a
Single relay to turn the fan on and off would be sufficient or if it will short cycle.

This still begs the question of 160f vs 180f. I’ve heard 160 isn’t enough to juice things up so sludge doesn’t happen. Ive heard the cooler the better with older carbureted stuff

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
40grit 
Contributor
Posts: 553
40grit
Age: 74
Loc: Chattanooga, Tn
Reg: 07-08-13
09-11-19 08:35 PM - Post#2775368    
    In response to drew1987

I personally think warmer is better. Especially if you make a lot of short trips. You do want to be hot enough to rid the engine of condensed moisture from heating and cooling.

BTW, do not choose a fan sensor that is not higher than your thermostat or your fan will run all the time. The fan needs to come on after the engine has heated up, the thermostat has opened, and the engine temperature is still increasing.

John

Just Slightly Abrasive


 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-12-19 03:05 AM - Post#2775378    
    In response to 40grit

Thanks. I am debating doing the dual speed thing vs throwing in a simple sensor 10f higher than my tstat wired to a Honda Pilot (photo above) or Taurus fan’s low speed side.

The dual speed thing sounds nice but a bit complicated and perhaps not necessary. I imagine both options move more air than my mechanical fan that’s not aligned with the radiator and doesn’t have a shroud



Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Lead sled 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1948
Lead sled
Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
09-12-19 11:49 AM - Post#2775395    
    In response to drew1987

Hey there Drew.I'll tell you what I'm using.
A 3 core radiator,temp sensor for the gauge in stock location in the intake, with a 185* thermostat.Along with that,a 14"fan ( can't recall the brand) with an adjustable thermostat with the probe in the TOP of the radiator (just below the input hose) that I ordered from JEGS. I have it set to kick on at 195*(according to my coolant gauge) then kick off at about 205*.Going down the road, the temp never gets over 185*. The only time the fan kicks on is while in slow traffic on a high temp day , just puttin around.

Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe


 
50_Fastback 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 175
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
09-12-19 06:38 PM - Post#2775419    
    In response to drew1987

Drew,
I have a 350 sbc in my fleetline with a US Radiator Desert Cooler 2; SPAL 13" Pusher Fan 30100399 set at 180 and a SPAL 13" Puller Fan: VA13-AP9/C-35A set at 190. The thermostat is in the intake manifold.

Drove route 66 from Cal. to Chicago and back with no heating problems.


Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350



 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-13-19 04:22 AM - Post#2775441    
    In response to 50_Fastback

That’s a really cool idea. No pun intended. I would have to move my ATF cooler but that’s ok. I wonder if a Taurus or Honda Pilot fan (or any modern take-out) would be happy in reverse

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
50_Fastback 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 175
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
09-15-19 03:56 PM - Post#2775598    
    In response to drew1987

Hi Drew,
I switched to this type of trans cooler and mounted it on the frame under passenger side. Found it on ebay. Works great!

Ron


Attachment: trans_cooler.jpg (104.29 KB) 2 View(s)




Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350



Edited by 50_Fastback on 09-15-19 03:57 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-15-19 05:30 PM - Post#2775605    
    In response to 50_Fastback

I've seen those, and like the idea... I was wondering when a transmission makes the most heat... that would help when cruising, but if its most at risk in stop and go traffic, do the fins do enough cooling without 55mph air rushing through them?

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1848

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
09-15-19 07:03 PM - Post#2775610    
    In response to drew1987

As a rule any acceleration especially during rpms under the convertor stall speed generates high oil temps, I have that cooler mounted on the r/s frame rail, this is not effective at low speeds. I have a 2k stall convertor, I use Dexron VI fluid, finned aluminum pan, so far fluid is clean, no discoloration after about 7,000 miles.



Edited by Shepherd on 09-15-19 07:05 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-20-19 12:42 PM - Post#2775975    
    In response to Shepherd

Good. I am going to either going to roll with that or what I have. I am going to use the transmission cooler thats built into the radiator (I dont believe that they are efficient enough) for my power steering I think.

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
50_Fastback 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 175
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
09-22-19 06:30 PM - Post#2776182    
    In response to drew1987

Drew,
here's the set up we used for cooling my 350ci 370hp Blueprint engine. The cowl and fan combination seems to be working great.

Hope this helps!
Ron


Attachment: Radiator_Cooling_Fans.jpg (174.39 KB) 0 View(s)




Attachment: Cowlrx.jpg (2.7 MB) 2 View(s)




Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350



 
50 sport coupe 
Poster
Posts: 6

Age: 50
Loc: Mohnton , Pennsylvania
Reg: 02-15-19
09-23-19 01:51 AM - Post#2776205    
    In response to 50_Fastback

Wow ! I like the cowl ! Did it significantly change airflow ?




 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-23-19 05:11 AM - Post#2776210    
    In response to 50 sport coupe

Wow that looks great! I think I’ll do a cowl like
That someday what my car is “done”

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Cruzin Okie 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 707
Cruzin Okie
Loc: Jay, Oklahoma
Reg: 10-26-11
09-23-19 06:22 AM - Post#2776220    
    In response to drew1987

Check out "53 Bel Air conv Update" by 40 Grit. He has also done a nice looking cowl on his convertible.

Johnnie

1950 styleline deluxe sports coupe, 350 cid, TH 400, nova rear end. Gen IV Vintage air. SOLD!
1953 210 4 Door, 235 with Powerglide. All original except for the 1954 hood bird.

John 3:16



 
johnwd98 
Contributor
Posts: 398
johnwd98
Age: 70
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
09-23-19 06:35 AM - Post#2776223    
    In response to 50_Fastback

50_Fastback, I made a very similar "cowl" like yours years ago for my 50 Fleetline, (before I even got it on the road). I figured it was the best way to be sure the majority of the outside air was going through the radiator and condenser. I also added duct work so that the air going into the factory GM air cleaner was the cooler outside air, not the hotter under hood air. I'm only using a factory clutch fan, and never had a cooling issue in any type of driving. Whether it was idling in traffic on fresh black tar on 90+ degree day, or 85 mhp (going with the flow) on interstate.

1950 Fleetline, 355 TBI, mild cam, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C,


 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-23-19 06:33 PM - Post#2776296    
    In response to johnwd98

Yea i've been following John/40grits progress in amazement. That whole project is beyond inspirational

I am liking the idea of the cowl if for no other reason than it makes the front look finished. For all of you with AC (I might be joining you!) it hides those components which is a plus. I am an Oldsmobile freak and they all had these stock from the factory.


Speaking of AC, would a donor system from a 2000's chevy truck, blowing cold, be easy to work into one of our cars? i've been under the impression 12 volts to the clutch and it will do its thing, of course with a couple pressure switches to interrupt. I dont know if you all saw the "lower dash" post I made some time ago, but a gent I met basically made a rolled piece of steel to look like his dash, about 8" tall and stuck it under his original dash. Looked like it belonged there but was a better place for face-aimed AC vents and a modern radio (id still hide mine - I was thinking under the seat with a mirror under the dash to reflect the IR from the handheld remote)

my factory air diffuser has a setting for feat or windshield or both, it would be easy to change windshield to face. I can see making a box for the evaporator and my small heater core, but putting it under the dash with a way to choose fresh air or recirculate (with the latter as the only choice if forced to choose)

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
johnwd98 
Contributor
Posts: 398
johnwd98
Age: 70
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
09-24-19 06:39 AM - Post#2776320    
    In response to drew1987

The HVAC system from a Chevy truck is huge compared to the room you have to work with behind or under the dash. I had the same idea, I wanted to try and keep everything GM. I Had the HVAC systems from an 88 Chevy truck, 98 S10 Blazer, and 2000 Grand Am, all way too big to fit behind the dash. After realizing how close to the cowl our dashboards are, I finally gave in and went with aftermarket under dash, even most of them seemed too big, according to the measurements they posted.

1950 Fleetline, 355 TBI, mild cam, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C,


 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-24-19 11:48 AM - Post#2776353    
    In response to johnwd98

I can build my own under dash or under hood unit. I just would need a small evaporator. It’s funny.., it was a KIA minivan rear passenger area heater core that fit my “smaller version” of the original fresh air heater.

And yes our dashboards are tiny and way close to the firewall

I guess it doesn’t have to be inside the car or even that close to the firewall. Perhaps relocate the battery to the trunk and use the space on the passenger side of the motor? Just insulate the ducting from the heat/cold source to the cabin... I can see a unit essentially sitting on top of a fresh air duct like the passenger side with a door that chooses air from outside or in, effectively adding “recirculate” to the system

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Cruzin Okie 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 707
Cruzin Okie
Loc: Jay, Oklahoma
Reg: 10-26-11
09-24-19 06:21 PM - Post#2776381    
    In response to drew1987

I put a Vintage Air, Gen IV Magnum unit, behind the dash in my 50 coupe. Tight fit for sure, but I got it stuffed up behind there. My 53 has much more room.

Johnnie

1950 styleline deluxe sports coupe, 350 cid, TH 400, nova rear end. Gen IV Vintage air. SOLD!
1953 210 4 Door, 235 with Powerglide. All original except for the 1954 hood bird.

John 3:16



 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3313
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
09-24-19 06:57 PM - Post#2776384    
    In response to Cruzin Okie

You need it more than me brother! We average 8 days per year over 90°f. Though in (ironically) 1953, we had 38. A close year was 2017 with 36. It was brutal. If measured by days over 80°f, every record was smashed.

I like AC for sunny days over like 75

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 


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