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Username Post: How to remove master cylinder on 53 210?        (Topic#357728)
grandpas53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17
grandpas53
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 08-19-19
08-19-19 02:52 PM - Post#2773587    

I'm trying to figure out how to get to the master cylinder to replace it. It doesn't seem to be accessible from underneath. I see a panel in the rear of the drivers side front wheel well. I removed that but not sure if I can get to it from there. What's the best way to get to it?



 


2blu52 
"18th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18959
2blu52
Age: 86
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-19-19 04:14 PM - Post#2773595    
    In response to grandpas53

My guess is that it comes out the same as the 49/52 and that is underneath. The last one I was involved with was done by a mechanic with a lift. He asked me never to come back Check the shop manual for any hints.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 239

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
08-20-19 02:09 AM - Post#2773624    
    In response to grandpas53

This is not a dumb question but is it a manual or automatic transmission? Replacing the master cylinder opens a can of worms as the old one is unsafe because its a single cylinder master cylinder.



 
4oldcars 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
4oldcars
Age: 74
Loc: Little River, S C
Reg: 08-26-15
08-20-19 07:06 AM - Post#2773646    
    In response to bobt

I had mine replaced. The mechanic said he did it thru the access panel in the wheel well.

1953 Bel Air Sport Coupe 235/3 on tree
1996 Roadmaster wagon
2000 Black Eldorado


 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-20-19 07:53 AM - Post#2773651    
    In response to grandpas53

I have a 53 210 as well and I have completely gone through the braking system and replaced all components including hard and soft lines. My car has a manual transmission and needed the pedals released from the Master Cylinder. The is a cap you unscrew and then remove a metal wedge that holds the pedals in. IF the wedge is stuck try a coat hanger. The Mast Cylinder unbolts from the frame and is removed from the bottom.
I did it on a lift but you could certainly do it on Jack Stands. Also, there is only one hydraulic line that needs to be disconnected. If the hydraulic line is not rusted in place its a pretty easy job. Good Luck!

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


 
grandpas53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17
grandpas53
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 08-19-19
08-20-19 07:59 AM - Post#2773654    
    In response to bobt

Hi Bob. It's a manual transmission.



 
grandpas53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17
grandpas53
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 08-19-19
08-20-19 08:00 AM - Post#2773655    
    In response to jfowlerjr

Where is this cap and metal wedge and how did you access it? Looking at it from underneath it seems to be covered up. I'll have a closer look.



 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-20-19 08:12 AM - Post#2773656    
    In response to grandpas53

Look at the master Cylinder while facing the rear of the car its right where the pedals attach.
Can you post a pic we might be able to help you better?
There is a possibility that is was removed or you are not running the stock master cylinder.

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


Edited by jfowlerjr on 08-20-19 08:13 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-20-19 08:14 AM - Post#2773657    
    In response to jfowlerjr

It also may have been replaced with a pipe plug

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-20-19 08:17 AM - Post#2773658    
    In response to jfowlerjr

also there is a video on Youtube on how to do it and it shows the coat hanger trick.

Just Google it

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-20-19 08:18 AM - Post#2773659    
    In response to jfowlerjr

Try this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLuAB6F3Siw

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


 
Dean50 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1373
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
08-20-19 08:18 AM - Post#2773660    
    In response to grandpas53

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...

Dean50



 
grandpas53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17
grandpas53
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 08-19-19
08-20-19 10:25 AM - Post#2773676    
    In response to jfowlerjr

After watching that video and looking at everything closer it looks pretty straight forward. Looks like the pedal linkages have to come out with the cylinder and then get swapped out on the bench? If that is correct then it looks like disconnect the hydraulic line in the back, unbolt the pedals from the linkages, remove the two springs on the front, and it should come out. Gonna try it this evening. Thanks for the help!



 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-20-19 11:47 AM - Post#2773681    
    In response to grandpas53

That sounds about right although I disconnected the pedals from the master cylinder before I removed it from the car.
I'd also suggest bathing the hydraulic line nut and the mounting bolts in PB blaster or other penetrating oil before removal.

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


 
53sd 
Contributor
Posts: 158

Reg: 12-08-08
08-20-19 03:15 PM - Post#2773693    
    In response to grandpas53

Remove the linkage/shafts from the master before trying to wiggle the master out from the bottom.There's way more clearance that way.



 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8710

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
08-20-19 05:01 PM - Post#2773698    
    In response to 53sd

I've owned my 51 for 57yrs (and it's still my daily driver) and had the master cylinder out 2-3 times for rebuilding. I did not think it was that difficult to remove and replace.



 
grandpas53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17
grandpas53
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 08-19-19
08-20-19 05:23 PM - Post#2773701    
    In response to jfowlerjr

Well I got it out this evening and it wasn’t fun. The brake line on the back was frozen tight. I ended up cutting it and decided I will replace the lines along with everything else. I missed the clutch linkage and couldn’t get it disconnected on the cylinder side so I wrestled the whole thing out with the linkage attached. Sure it would have been easier for some more experienced but I’m glad I got it out. For those of you that have done this did you reconnect all of the linkages after the cylinder was installed or did you put it in with some things like the pedal linkages already attached?



 
grandpas53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 17
grandpas53
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 08-19-19
08-20-19 05:27 PM - Post#2773702    
    In response to DZAUTO

That’s crazy that you’ve had the same daily driver for 57 years! No telling how much you have saved in car payments over the years. How many miles have you put on it? I was proud of myself for having the same Dodge truck since 2002 but that’s nothing in comparison.



 
belairbob50 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Loc: OH where rust never sleep...
Reg: 03-17-13
08-20-19 05:27 PM - Post#2773703    
    In response to DZAUTO

Here are some photos of a 1953 M/C. The hardest part is getting to the front plug while under the car. One you remove the plug, look inside for the pedal shaft lock pin. This is what holds the pedals in the M/C. Take a jumbo paper clip and bend it like the one in the photo. You have to fish the pin out so you may have to wiggle the clutch and or brake pedals to accomplish this. The rest of the photos are kind of self explanatory. Good Luck.













 
belairbob50 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Loc: OH where rust never sleep...
Reg: 03-17-13
08-20-19 05:32 PM - Post#2773704    
    In response to belairbob50

Here is what the entire Master Cylinder looks like off the car.

[image]https://[/image]





 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8710

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
08-21-19 12:06 AM - Post#2773727    
    In response to grandpas53

  • grandpas53 Said:
That’s crazy that you’ve had the same daily driver for 57 years! No telling how much you have saved in car payments over the years. How many miles have you put on it? I was proud of myself for having the same Dodge truck since 2002 but that’s nothing in comparison.



I have no clue how many miles I've put on it over the years. But, the 350 I built in 76 had over 300,000mi on it when I replaced it with the 389 that's in it now, which I built just a few years ago. Although, when I retired at the end of 2011, I was no longer driving 50mi per day to work. So the 389 will never see that many miles on it. It's had 4 rearends including the original enclosed drive line which I replaced in 67 with a 57 rearend with a 3.70 posi gear (gas was cheap then). Then it got a 3.36 posi about 75 and then a 3.08 posi which somehow broke a pinion tooth, so I installed another 3.08 posi which is doing fine. It's also had 5-6 transmissions, including 2 51 style trannys (I broke one and replaced it with a 54 3sp), a 58 3sp and 3-5 Muncies.
The 389 is engine number 6.
We also have bought several other cars over the years and now we have 7, but all are paid for.
But the 51 has been old faithful since 1962. I can work on it and fix it if needed, NO computer, NO emissions, NO inspections and it has a super ugly old air cond that blows cold R12.


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bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 239

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
08-21-19 01:56 AM - Post#2773729    
    In response to DZAUTO

DO NOT LOSE THE WEDGE THAT HOLDS THE PEDALS IN PLACE. (ask me why)



Edited by bobt on 08-21-19 01:57 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
jfowlerjr 
Poster
Posts: 9

Loc: Phoenixville< PA
Reg: 05-10-10
08-21-19 08:16 AM - Post#2773752    
    In response to grandpas53

I put the master cylinder in and then connected the pedals and the linkages.

Jim

68 Camaro
53 Chev


 


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