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Username Post: R4 to Sanden 4864 conversion        (Topic#357638)
gchemist 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 24852
gchemist
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
08-13-19 07:21 AM - Post#2773125    

Has anyone done a Sanden 4864 conversion? The rear plate fits the R4 hose connections. I'm worried the high pressure hose will may be too short. The hoses on my truck are custom cut. If it's too short, my local A/C shop can fix them. I converted my 95 Jimmy to HD7 compressor.

The plan is to use enough oil to match a 94 model. Info states 8 oz. As for R134a, I'll base it on pressure and ~32 oz. The drier will be updated too. The older J type connection will be removed.

Does anyone have specific info for amounts used?

Attachment: SANDEN4864.jpg (75.11 KB) 1 View(s)


Sanden 4864 R4 conversion


'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'95 Jimmy SLT (Bought @131,814)
'96 GMC Jimmy LS Ret. @236651 miles


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4231
bowtie44s
Age: 36
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
08-13-19 10:20 AM - Post#2773130    
    In response to gchemist

I'm sorry that I don't know anything about this. Please report back on what you learn and what you do because I would like to do this too.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
gchemist 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 24852
gchemist
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
08-13-19 10:48 AM - Post#2773133    
    In response to bowtie44s

The compressor is full with 200 cc of oil. Equal to 6.72 oz. I think that's the working amount for it. So, if a 94 model R4 needs 8 oz, I need the difference to add to the condenser, drier, and evaporator. Does anyone know how much each one has in it?

The '95 conversion I did a few years ago is still going strong and cold. I have info in the S10 section.

Basic oil info: 7 oz
R4 - 2.5 oz
Condenser - 1 oz
Evaporator - 1.5 oz
Accumulator - 1/2 oz

I'll probably add 2 to the condenser to make it 8 for a stock system. It's a big condenser.

I'll confirm working compressor oil amount with my local shop. I'm surprised they had one on a shelf. I knew they had the brackets since I converted my Jimmy 2 years ago.

Sanden lists 240 cc of oil in orifice tube systems. ~8.115 oz. The amount covers refrigerant charges 24oz (680g) to 40oz (1133g).

'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'95 Jimmy SLT (Bought @131,814)
'96 GMC Jimmy LS Ret. @236651 miles


Edited by gchemist on 08-13-19 11:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4231
bowtie44s
Age: 36
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
08-13-19 11:25 AM - Post#2773135    
    In response to gchemist

Unless you flushed it the old oil is still in there minus what came out of your old compressor.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2050
beagrizzly
Age: 69
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
08-13-19 11:36 AM - Post#2773136    
    In response to gchemist

gchemist,
I have done a lot of Sanden installations on big heavy equipment, and an old Cat mechanic taught me an almost foolproof method for any system.
1 oz of oil for each component in the system. Drier,
evaporator, condenser, hoses. On units that used 10' or longer hoses, I installed an extra oz of oil.
Do NOT start the engine!!!!!
Pull your vacuum, and check for leaks.
Attach your bottle upside down. You are going to use liquid.
Open the valve, and bleed your gauges. Then open the HIGH PRESSURE side of the gauge.
Watch carefully the low pressure side gauge. When it gets to bottle pressure, shut it off immediately.
Turn your bottle back to vapor side up and start the system. Let the system settle down.(you have to let the oil circulate and find where it wants to hide in the system) Your pressures will be almost perfect. You may have to add a little vapor to top it off, but I have only had to add any on two, or three systems in 20+ years of doing this.

Griff.

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
gchemist 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 24852
gchemist
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
08-13-19 01:19 PM - Post#2773145    
    In response to beagrizzly

Griff,
I've always been curious about adding the first can through the high port. Especially since a fresh can can blow compressor oil out into the system. I always put vacuum for 45 min minimum. Up 75-90 min on rear A/C systems. I assume you use a single large charge canister. What about multiple small cans? All vapor after the first fill?

Thanks for sharing! I'll definitely try the method. I did our '08 Nitro last week. It had a compressor replacement 3 almost 4 years ago. Out in the middle of South Dakota. I had a shop do it since I didn't have my tools. Anyway, it lasted a while. Finally, it was making too much noise and still working. I was surprised when no oil came out of the compressor!! I put oil back to factory specs in each component. The system will hit <60 in a driveway. While moving, center vent drops to 40 degrees.

'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'95 Jimmy SLT (Bought @131,814)
'96 GMC Jimmy LS Ret. @236651 miles


 
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2050
beagrizzly
Age: 69
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
08-14-19 08:43 AM - Post#2773209    
    In response to gchemist

gchemist,
Yes I use a 30lb bottle of R-134, but it will still work with cans. You can speed up the process a lot that way, as long as you don't run the engine you can put it in the high pressure side.
As you probably know, if you hook up to the high pressure side while running you run the chance of over pressuring a can, and it will burst.
I wouldn't stop with one can though. Look up your system, and I would get close to the listed charge before I went to vapor.

As far as the first can blowing oil out into the system, that is not a bad thing. The oil will seek it's resting place anyway. Some will fall out into the condenser, the evaporator, the drier, and lines.

Good luck, and as always stay safe!!
ps. if the shop that replaced the compressor on the Nitro didn't flush ALL of the components with Acetone, or AC flush it is a guaranteed failure.
That black death didn't get it's nickname for no reason. That is all the aluminum from the previous dying compressor, and circulating in the system is vewy, vewy bad.

Griff

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
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