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Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: Body Dolly for my 58        (Topic#357629)
Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 876
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
08-12-19 10:01 AM - Post#2773035    

Looking for some info on building a body dolly for my 58.

Something I've never done before and want to do it right the first time.

Need to lift the body off the frame but limited to 8ft ceiling.

What would be a good size steel tubing that will support the body but still allow me to pull the chassis out from under?Think I have enough head room to allow the engine to stay in place.

I'm thinking 2" x 2" but not sure on wall thickness.

Any info would be greatly appreciated and pictures would be even better.

Thanks


I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1398
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
08-12-19 03:10 PM - Post#2773061    
    In response to Techhead

Hey Frank this is the information on the body dolly that I built for my 60 Impala in 2014. I used 1 ½” square tubing and I think that the thickness was 1/8”. I used 5/16” x 2” flat stock for the gussets. I used 1 ½” Unistrut for the top cross pieces. I used these wheels from Northern Tools: Ironton Standard-Duty 8in. Swivel Polyurethane Caster — 880-Lb. Capacity, Red , Ironton Standard-Duty 8in. Rigid Polyurethane Caster — 880-Lb. Capacity, Red
It worked great for my application, loaded it on a trailer, hauled it 25 miles to the paint shop, unloaded it, they pushed it uphill to the body shop, back to the paint shop, into the paint booth, loaded it on a rollback, brought it home, unloaded it, moved it from its small space many time and never had a problem with it. I don’t have it anymore. When I was laying it out, I used a plumb bob to locate the body mount bolt holes on the floor and this determined the length of the dolly. I made it 48” wide just a little wider than the mounting holes were apart. When I removed the body, I raised it about 1” above the tires so that I could just roll the frame out from under it. I made the uprights that attached to the body just high enough so that I could roll the dolly under the body and used my floor jack to lift it up and attached the bolts. I used the Unistrut with the slots on the back so that I wasn’t limited to a certain hole to use. Hope that this helps or at least give you some ideas of your own. Lamar

By the way that frame is loooooking good!!


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Edited by PLS on 08-12-19 03:13 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 876
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
08-13-19 01:38 PM - Post#2773148    
    In response to PLS

Lamar,
thank you for the pictures.
I need to design something that will allow me to roll the current chassis out from under the body. Hope I can get the height to leave the engine in also. If not I'll have to pull the engine prior.

I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1398
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
08-13-19 02:50 PM - Post#2773154    
    In response to Techhead

Is the front end still attached? If it is that big boy will really have to be high to clear the engine.



 
buddhabelly 
Poster
Posts: 37

Loc: Calgary, AB
Reg: 12-05-14
08-14-19 12:21 AM - Post#2773187    
    In response to Techhead

Are you just wanting to separate the two? How are you lifting the body off the frame? The answer may dictate what you use for anchor points and the space available to you. I lifted the body of my wagon with chainfollows hanging from the ceiling using tailgate mounts and front body mounts.No seats in place. The front end sheet metal was gone and the car was parked in reverse to ease rolling the frame from underneath. Rear tires removed and drums on wheel dollies.Now you can simply space lumber under the body to set it on the floor. With the body off the frame I simply leveled body and built a frame to fit underneath. 2" thin walled square stock on casters so I could move the body around. I spanned the roof rafters to spread the weight of the body. I then looked to see if there was any deflection in the ceiling. It worked for me.



 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1398
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
08-14-19 06:25 AM - Post#2773200    
    In response to Techhead

Revising reply



Edited by PLS on 08-14-19 08:01 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1398
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
08-14-19 06:45 AM - Post#2773203    
    In response to Techhead

https://youtu.be/RRjdBeTk7Fw This would be nice to have in a limited head room space like our 😊



 
Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 876
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
08-14-19 01:11 PM - Post#2773222    
    In response to PLS

  • PLS Said:
Is the front end still attached? If it is that big boy will really have to be high to clear the engine.



The front clip has been removed, just need to remove the rad.


  • PLS Said:
https://youtu.be/RRjdBeTk7Fw This would be nice to have in a limited head room space like our 😊



I have thought about that a few years ago and the wife even said go ahead and get it. BUT, I have a heated slab in my garage so I would hate to drill and anchor point through a wire and no longer have a heated slab.


buddhabelly

I need to separate and remove the old chassis, so I can then swap all suspension components and driveline over to my freshly painted chassis.

I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1398
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
08-14-19 02:56 PM - Post#2773226    
    In response to PLS

Revised reply after my computer crashed. I finally got it going again but it is so slow now that I probably could have hand delivered this quicker. Frank, I think that I may have given a long answer to a question that you didn’t ask. I guess that I didn’t read your post that close just caught “dolly”. I feel your pain on limited space, the vast majority of the work on my 60 was done in a space 11”wide x 25” deep x 7 ½’ high. So this is what I did to get my frame out. I went down earlier and took some measurements: from the floor to the top of my carburetor is approx.. 36”. When the body was resting on the supports that I made, the lowest part, the floor pan at the back seat, was approx. 33” off the floor so my frame with the engine installed would have cleared with the carburetor removed. Buuuut, since this is a basement space there is no overhead room to use and it was scary just lifting it up as high as I did, using a two-ton come along in the back and my engine hoist in front. I hope that I'm not answering another question that you didn't ask. Lamar

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A. 4x4 locations B. Goes just under rockers to give room for tires to pass (was still really close)


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Rear Brace




Edited by PLS on 08-15-19 03:57 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 876
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
08-15-19 12:47 PM - Post#2773254    
    In response to PLS

Thanks Lamar.
Not sure I could something like that as my garage is 15' wide and cluttered walls.

I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
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