 Sting Ray
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2900
Loc: Drag City, California
Reg: 02-19-05
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08-09-19 06:01 PM - Post#2772845
It ran just fine but hasn't been started in a year or so. I want to put some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders but how much per cylinder and how long should that sit before cranking? I assume it should be spun with the plugs out?
Any other suggestions welcomed too.
Bleeds Chevy Orange
1957 Chevy 150, 3-spd
1964 Corvette two top convert, 4-spd
1965 Pontiac GTO hrdtp, tri-power, 4-spd, 4.11's
1967 El Camino, 427, 4-spd
2009 Corvette coupe, triple black, 436 hp, 6-spd
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2blu52
"18th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 19043
Age: 86
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
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08-09-19 06:25 PM - Post#2772850
In response to Sting Ray
Here is what I would do, 1. change fluids. 2 drain fuel and put fresh in the tank.2. Marvel mystery oil in the cylinders put as much in there as you want to as it will flow out throgh the exhaust valves any way or run down the cylinder walls into the pan. 3. Pull the distributor, and with a cut off flat screw driver blade run the oil pump until you get pressure on the gauge 4.Turn it over with the starter several times. 5 reinstall plugs, prime the carb, replace the air cleaner and then with a fully charged battery crank it over with the key on. 
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"
THOMAS JEFFERSON |
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Sting Ray
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2900
Loc: Drag City, California
Reg: 02-19-05
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08-11-19 08:11 AM - Post#2772955
In response to 2blu52
Thanks, blue!
Bleeds Chevy Orange
1957 Chevy 150, 3-spd
1964 Corvette two top convert, 4-spd
1965 Pontiac GTO hrdtp, tri-power, 4-spd, 4.11's
1967 El Camino, 427, 4-spd
2009 Corvette coupe, triple black, 436 hp, 6-spd
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Mel Foye
*VIP* Founding Member
Posts: 4930
Reg: 09-29-00
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08-11-19 01:55 PM - Post#2772976
In response to Sting Ray
I have had my 57 150 light green 4 dr. 235 since 93 and it has many times sat for years. Old gas and all. Charge or replace the battery, squirt can with gas to fill the carb and start it. Keep revs as low as you can for a few minutes while you check all 5 tires, clean windows etc.
With the oil system being almost entirely closed off I don't see how the oil would go bad. Without air transfer condensation would be a non factor.
On the other side no one has died from using the soft glove approach on their metal baby. 
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Slow Train
Poster
Posts: 6
Loc: Salt Spring Island, B.C.
Reg: 04-18-19
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10-21-19 12:08 PM - Post#2778435
In response to Sting Ray
Here's what I do with my 235:
To start with, a year is nothing to worry about, I just got mine up and running after 20 years.
I use Amsoil MP in the cylinders because it is very thin and cuts rust and corrosion better than anything I've ever tried and I've been taking apart rusty stuff for 40 years.
To prime the pump I decided to make a permanent pump primer. I took an old 235 distributor, removed the cam etc. so that I could put an electric drill right on the dist shaft. It fits perfectly in the block of course and has the nice thick wide bit to drive the pump. You can watch the pressure climb on your dash gauge and then see oil flowing out of the holes in the rocker arms.
Before ever cranking it over, I flood the cyls with MP, take off the flywheel inspection cover so I can turn the engine over with a big screwdriver in the ring gear teeth. If you have one you can also use a long engine crank in the crankshaft pulley.
The thing is, if you had any rings stuck to the walls or suuck in the piston grooves, rolling it over gently before cranking with the starter is the way to go.
And to reiterate: Get a can of Amsoil MP and test it for yourself on some rusty stuff . From other forums I get sick of people who just insist on the method and fluids of their choice and won't take any further advice.
Terry
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