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 Page 8 of 8 « First<5678
Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6428
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
06-26-20 07:34 PM - Post#2797271    
    In response to 1971BB427

Looks good.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 


1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
06-26-20 08:07 PM - Post#2797273    
    In response to Keith_Knox

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Looks good.



Thanks Keith!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
06-29-20 02:54 PM - Post#2797462    
    In response to 1971BB427

Figured out my gas gauge issue the other day, and contacted the seller to exchange the gauge. I ordered a 0-90 ohm, and they sent me a 90-0 ohm, thus causing the reverse reading. Got the new gauge today, and got it installed.
I also ordered some thin black foam rubber mat in a 4'x 5' size to put down in the trunk over the floor. I plan to get more black carpet from Home Depot, but want this under the carpet to deaden the noise, but not be slick like the foil back sound deadener is. I wont be gluing the carpet in the trunk, so this will keep it from slipping around also. I'll glue the carpet on the box I built to cover wiring, and vent lines, but leave it removable on the trunk floor.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-02-20 05:59 PM - Post#2797753    
    In response to 1971BB427

My wife decided she wanted to help out on the build, so she sewed up covers for the ratty sun visors. She still needs to do the final sewing to close off the end, but they fit well, and look good. The picture makes them look lighter from the flash, but they're very black in reality.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
rcr3 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3298
rcr3
Age: 68
Loc: MANHEIM PA. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
07-03-20 05:13 AM - Post#2797773    
    In response to 1971BB427

Nice job!

'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab






 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-03-20 07:39 AM - Post#2797783    
    In response to rcr3

Thanks! Still have to apply the tin layer of dense foam to the visors, and then slip the covering back on so she can do the final stitch to close them off.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-03-20 04:48 PM - Post#2797819    
    In response to 1971BB427

Wife finished up my sun visors, and I installed them this morning. They look great, and work nicely!
Then I decided to tackle a job I've been putting off for awhile. The '39 rides pretty stiff, and I planned to remove some leafs up front. Always a guessing game as to how many, and how it will affect the stance. So I decided to go big, and took 3 of the 5 leafs out, but the shortest 3 leafs. That is a total of 3/4" off the stance, and with less spring rate I figured I'd lose another 3/4"-1" on top of that.
So I set about to remove the 3 leafs, and build a spacer block to adjust for the loss. I had plenty of extra length on the U bolts, so I used heavy wall 2"x 2" box tubing, and cut it 5" long. I drilled a hole at center, and opened one side up to 3/8" and the other side up to 9/16" I bolted a stainless steel 3/8" allen bolt in the 3/8" hole to be the alignment pin. The other fits over the 3/8" pin on my springs. Before installing the spacers I cut 2"x 2" plates to weld over the ends of the box tubing to make it stronger, and make it look like a solid block.
Bolted it all together, and lowered the car down on the ground. My before and after measurements were 1/2' difference, and that's 1/2" higher. So it appears my seat of the pants guess on the spacer was as close as I could guesstimate. Love when I get lucky!
Took it for a ride, and even with only two long leafs, the ride is still firm, but not nearly as hard as it was before. Glad to get this mod done, and it actually was a lot easier, and quicker than I thought it would be!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-06-20 03:33 PM - Post#2798062    
    In response to 1971BB427

Took a look into installing the electric door locks on the '39 today, and just stuffed them back in the bag for now. Where they attach to the locking mechanism is nearly impossible to access, and if I pull it all out to add the clamp from the kit, I'm unsure how to determine where to clamp it to ensure I can still have the solenoid sitting where it needs to go. So I shelved it for now.

I decided I had enough miles to spend some time going over all the front suspension bolts. Most are grade 8 with locking nuts, so not much that can work loose, but I also had some grade 5 bolts that came with new parts, and wanted to change those out to grade 8.
The Speedway disc brake kit had two 7/16NF locking nuts missing, and I forgot I never replaced those. When I saw they were still regular nuts I got grade 8 locknuts, and figured I'd replace them today. They hold the tierod brackets to the spindles, so pretty important!
When I went to remove the nuts today they had backed off a good 1/8" from tight!! I was shocked to see this, and checked the other bolt that had a locking nut, and they were still tight. But I've had a little bit of "wandering" in my steering, and I bet this was the case. I replaced the nuts with the grade 8 locknuts, and put blue Loctite on all 4 nuts also, just for extra security!
I also replaced all the 1/2NF U bolt nuts for the springs with grade 8 nuts, and Loctited them too. Never seen U bolts with grade 5 nuts before, and didn't like the looks of them for such a critical fastener.
So with everything checked, tightened, Loctied, and changed; I took it for a short spin. The steering is noticeably crisper, and more precise, with no wandering going down the freeway. So I'm glad I took time to check everything after a few hundred miles!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6428
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
07-06-20 07:21 PM - Post#2798082    
    In response to 1971BB427

Good idea, going over every thing after a new rebuild.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 368

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-06-20 09:33 PM - Post#2798094    
    In response to Keith_Knox

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good idea, going over every thing after a new rebuild.



I've always done it, and rarely find anything. But one incident like this makes me sure it should always be done on critical parts like suspension/steering.



1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


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