Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Classic Industries
American Auto Wire
Danchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomNu-Relics Power Windows

 Page 5 of 5 « First<2345
Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
Posts: 8

Reg: 02-02-20
04-02-20 04:11 AM - Post#2790061    
    In response to 1971BB427

im lucky my wife grew up helping her impatient father bleeding brakes. she has no problem helping me do it or telling me where to go when i get grumpy with them hahaha


Posts: 282

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
04-02-20 06:07 PM - Post#2790163    
    In response to markr1001

My new screws for the window channels in my doors came in today, so decided to get all the new fuzzy channel installed. The channel came with stainless #4 x 1/4" flathead wood screws, but they didn't have enough thread showing after going through the channel to barely grab in the holes. Plus being stainless they are impossible to hold, and trying to locate the hole caused me to lose 6 of the screws for every hole I drilled!
I ordered #4 flathead 1/2" long, and zinc plated. What a difference! Still tough to locate the holes I drill, because they close up after you pull the drill out. But marking the edge of the channel, and being able to hold the screw with a magnetic tip screwdriver made it go very well.
The top and rear edge of the door window opening is one piece that's done with bendable channel. The front vertical that's adjacent to the wing window is solid channel in straight pieces. And the lower door window opening is just a single edge stainless with rubber and fuzz on it to keep windows from rattling. Took about 6 hours to get both doors done with all the new channels and fuzzy edge, but they're ready for door glass. I need to buy the self adhesive rubber for wing windows, and door track, and of course nobody is open that has it. So I'll probably take a stab at installing the windshield and back window glass. Might be a task for two, but I'll use my glass suction cups, and see if I can do it without help.

I think I discovered why my vacuum brake bleeder wasn't working on the car too! I happened to be laying on the floor of the car reaching up inside the door, and looked over at the bake pedal. I noticed the brake operating rod was off center, so grabbed a flashlight to investigate. It had dropped out of the indent in the master that centers it! So it was holding the piston on the master cylinder down about 38"-1/2"! Guessing that was also closing off the ports from the master cylinder reservoir, and not allowing my vacuum pump to pull fluid down the lines!
I readjusted the rod so it doesn't have as much free play, and doesn't allow the rod to drop free from it's indent. I'll give the vacuum pump another try soon and see if I get better results than I did the other day!

1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350

Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6339
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
04-03-20 10:19 AM - Post#2790215    
    In response to 1971BB427

Making progress.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 Page 5 of 5 « First<2345
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.159 seconds.   Total Queries: 17   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 05:16 PM