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Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
11-28-19 05:21 PM - Post#2781217    
    In response to 1971BB427






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-04-19 03:28 PM - Post#2781498    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got all my sound deadener/insulation laid down today.



I also got my fuse block mounted under the dash, and wired the steering column. Still a big rat's nest of wire to route to various parts of the car.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-05-19 05:15 PM - Post#2781558    
    In response to 1971BB427

Started back in on the wiring, and ran into trouble. First I decided to mount the headlight switch, and use the factory hole. I put the fuse block too close to the dash, and being pretty high up it interfered with the switch mounting. So had to move the fuse block back towards the firewall to make room. Then I got to routing wiring, and decided to make up the dash area. Got wires sorted out and hooked up all the gauges. Then went to mount the panel and my panel hit the headlight switch too!! So again I had to stop and trim the panel off as short as possible on the left end so it wouldn't hit the switch.
Finally I got the gauges and steering column all done, and tidied up the dash wiring. Then I laid out the rear harness and saw it had tons of length. So instead of running it on the floor, I snaked it up the A pillar and above the driver's door on that side. Then dropped it down the C pillar at the rear, and into the trunk area. Still lots leftover to make up the taillights, especially since they're up high on the sides about halfway down the 1/4 panels.
I pulled all the extra wiring out of the looms that is for items I don't have nor ever will have. Also have about 10 extra circuits I'll land on a terminal strip so if I want to ever add anything it will be easy to just land the power on the strip.
Masked off the dash, and engine bay also, so I can begin sanding the body down to prepare to shoot epoxy sealer. Next week looks like we will get into the 50's, and if I'm ready I can add a little heat to the shop and prime the whole body.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6275
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
12-05-19 06:26 PM - Post#2781560    
    In response to 1971BB427

You do great work. I used a Y N Z
on my 48. The harness does go up and over following the roof.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-06-19 02:54 PM - Post#2781609    
    In response to Keith_Knox

Thanks!!
This one is an Ebay harness that looks much like many other brands, but has the added feature of being universal. It comes with GM, FOrd, and Mopar instructions to tailor it and pin the steering column connector to whatever brand it's going in. Takes a little more time to install, but considering it was $85 shipped it's a great bargain.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


Edited by 1971BB427 on 12-06-19 02:55 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-06-19 02:57 PM - Post#2781610    
    In response to 1971BB427

My tail is dragging! 4 hours of non stop paint stripping with the paint stripper discs. But those "sponge" looking discs sure do a great job, and pretty fast. My little Harbor freight 4.5" angle grinder never shut off for more than a minute to move my step stool, or change locations.
Took another hour after I quit to finish vacuuming up dust! Didn't want to use air to blow it out as I figured it would end up settling back on the car again. I'll have multiple wipe downs before it's clean enough to shoot the epoxy primer.
The good news is I didn't find a single speck of body filler other than what I spread on the patch panels I put in. I did however find one more rust hole in the top of the cowl. Also found some dents above the rear window that appear to be from some kid climbing up on the roof. But the rest the roof is perfect, so guess they didn't get far. I think most will tap out with a hammer and dolly, and need almost no filler.
You can maybe see them in this image about 6" above the window. Just a few ripples.









Didn't strip the trunk lid or fenders as the lid is fiberglass, and fenders have been smoothed out already, and can just get primer now. I will eventually shoot the glass frontend, but not until it's test fitted and I know if it's ready to go on.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-08-19 01:26 PM - Post#2781717    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got out there this morning and put my portable heater inside the car as Lash suggested. Then ran to Home Depot for tack cloth and a bunny suit with a hood to keep the paint off me. When I got home I did a dry wipe down, and then a second. Then did a few wipe downs with the tack cloths, and mixed up some primer.
I got my big 40 gal. air compressor out of storage, and set it up outside the shop. Then ran the hose inside and hooked up my old spray gun. I did a test spray and the darn gun wouldn't work properly. Fortunately I had a second brand new gun in the sidelines, so I grabbed it quickly and assembled it. Poured the primer in and went to work spraying. Of course I shut the heater off first and took it out of the car.
It laid down really well, and I did as a friend suggested in a phone call, and added some "fast" reducer to make it dry quicker with low temps. I painted it in 4 sections starting with the roof, then the trunk area, and finally each side. I had an issues with the seal on the lid of my gravity feed gun, and it dripped occasionally which created some runs where it landed on wet primer. And of course I had some other runs from getting the coats too heavy. But all in all it went great, and it's done.
I now recall how much I dislike the smell of automotive paint too! Even with a good respirator on it just doesn't really stop all the smell. At least the respirator kept me from getting a headache from the fumes!














1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1211
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
12-08-19 04:40 PM - Post#2781737    
    In response to 1971BB427

I could sit there and look at that fine piece of machinery all day long,


VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-08-19 05:46 PM - Post#2781746    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
I could sit there and look at that fine piece of machinery all day long,




Thanks! I went back out later this evening just to remove the masking, and see how it looked dry. It's not quite shiny, but a nice satin look to it.
I finally got my -10an to -6an reducers yesterday, so I can run the fuel line now. Running 3/8" hard line from tank to a filter just ahead of the fuel pump.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-26-19 06:08 PM - Post#2782990    
    In response to 1971BB427

Stopped by Old Car Parts here in Portland to see if they had a pair of chrome headlight rings. They found three of them in varying states of less than perfect. But less than perfect is perfect for my build. One was a bit tarnished, one nice chrome, but missing the tensioning screw setup, and the last one had the setup, but a big dent down towards the bottom. So I worked a deal on all three, so I could piece two decent ones together.
While I was there I asked about the possibility of a locking outside door handle.....with key! Of course the owner said they never got anything like that in. Then he walked off to the back. As I was looking over my trim rings he came back out and laid a outside handle with a key in it on the counter!! So I now have a locking door handle for one side, which is all they originally had anyway. Chevy only put a lock in the passenger door back then, but my car has them in both doors, and no keys. So I'll lock the passenger door from inside, and the driver's door with my key.
​​​​​​​ When I got home I took the rings to my basement shop, and got out my sand bag and a block of wood. I tapped the dent out of the one trim ring, and it came out great. Especially since the dent is on the bottom where nobody will see minor imperfections. I polished the other decent one with Mother's and it came out good also. Success!
And my -6AN kit of fittings and hose arrived also. So I can plumb up the carb to fuel pump and finish my plumbing too. That is if it ever gets warm enough again! Barely broke into the 40's today!
I did stay in the shop long enough to mount my taillight housings, so I can finish the wiring in the back. Still need to set the front fenders/hood on and mount the headlamp buckets so I can finish that wiring too.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-26-19 09:56 PM - Post#2783003    
    In response to 1971BB427

Had one of those gut wrenching feelings the other day when my starter didn't fit. I began to wonder if my flexplate was wrong too? The flexplate on my 1990 350 has a big weight on it, and I was surprised to see that since I'd read all SBC except the SBC 400 were internally balanced.
So today I spent some time researching various SBC flexplates. It seems that 1955-'85 are 2 piece main seals and internally balanced. Except the SBC 400 that uses a special externally balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer. Then in 1986 Chevy decided to really screw things up! They added a externallly balanced flexplate, but kept the internal balancing enough to use the earlier internal balance harmonic balancer!
So the 1986-'97 are only half external balanced, and it's done so at the flexplate. Explains why mine has a externally balanced flexplate, but regular harmonic balancer. I can relax and not freak out over this now.
Another new learning experience for this old dinosaur!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-02-20 03:38 PM - Post#2783523    
    In response to 1971BB427

So how does a guy fill tranny fluid in a dipstick tube that's almost horizontal? Seems like a perfect way to end up with fluid all over the top of your clean engine to me. Guess I'll have to get some clear fuel line and hook it to my funnel. Then slide it down the tube far enough and wrap a rag around the end to avoid drips.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Broo102 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 573
Broo102
Loc: Huntington Beach, CA.
Reg: 09-30-14
01-02-20 08:49 PM - Post#2783561    
    In response to 1971BB427

rotate the trans dip stick tube to the up position?

Thanks!
Bru
John 3:16
32 Chev. 5 Win. Sports Coupe
47 Chev. convertible in progress


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-03-20 05:40 PM - Post#2783632    
    In response to Broo102

It's bent to sit in this location, and bolts to the bellhousing. It wont clear in any other position, and still fit into the trans.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-08-20 03:45 PM - Post#2784006    
    In response to 1971BB427

I've been pondering how to do the headlights and turn signals on the coupe. I already purchased sealed beam buckets off a Ford truck, but I couldn't see a good way to be able to adjust them for level. And then there was the turn signal issue too. The old headlights had the turn signals in the headlamp above center, and I kinda liked that. I had a couple LED type chrome pods I considered, but wasn't really sold on them either.
So I hit the Pick N Pull today and went looking for donors. I ended up pulling halogen sockets and reflectors from a wrecked Ford SUV, and tore the busted up lenses off. Then I stopped at Oreillys and got a pair of 1157 sockets. So this was what I started with:



And these old reflectors and buckets from my coupe:



I started by using an old 3" header collector as a pattern, and traced a circle around the donor reflectors.



Then I cut the reflectors down with my bandsaw, and ground them smooth to the line I marked. After that I removed the sockets from the coupe's reflectors, and opened up both holes larger. Since all the silver was off the copper reflectors, I shot them with rattlecan chrome.



After shooting them I pre drilled the donor halogen sockets and then held them centered on the reflectors and drilled one hole for a pop rivet. Then drilled the other three holes. After the new sockets were in I installed the signal sockets in where the original sockets were. I had to notch the donor halogen sockets as they were slightly large and covered the turn signal hole.







Once they were finished I took them over to my quad and used the battery to test the headlights and turn signals. They work great and the turn signals are plenty bright enough to be seen with the headlights on. I think I'll likely use LED headlight lamps instead of these halogen, just so they last longer and have no maintenance issues.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1211
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
01-08-20 05:42 PM - Post#2784014    
    In response to 1971BB427

Only thing to me that is acceptable is upgrade, rework the originals like you are doing!
I never liked those turn signals Frenched in to the bottom of the front renders, looks cheap too me.
just an opinion
Just saying

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-08-20 09:17 PM - Post#2784029    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

The pods I considered using were shaped like the taillight pods at the rear, except they are chrome. But I couldn't find a location to install them that I liked. Ford put a similar pod on the side of the '33/'34 Fords, and I considered that. But they looked odd held up there. I finally decided if I used them I'd mount them below the front fenders on a bracket off the frame rails. That way they'd be seen, but no new holes drilled.
But when I began disassembling the headlights to convert them it was just too obvious that they should remain where they used to be. Even if it's a hotrod, some things just look good the way Chevy did it in 1939. But I did have to modify the wiring since the old headlights had no high/low beams. So the rubber grommet with 3 holes had to go and be replaced with a single hole grommet that could hold 5 wires for headlights and park/turn signals, plus a ground.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 233

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-19-20 03:40 PM - Post#2784683    
    In response to 1971BB427

Finished sanding the grille today! Gave it a couple coats of 2x primer and then after that dried I shot the VHT graphite wheel paint on it. Didn't come out quite as dark as I expected, so chrome doesn't contrast as much as I hoped. But I think I'll leave it for now.





I'd love a pretty chrome grille, but they cost as much as $1500-$1600, so I decided repairing mine and painting it would be more suitable for the budget.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


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