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Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
11-28-19 05:21 PM - Post#2781217    
    In response to 1971BB427






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-04-19 03:28 PM - Post#2781498    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got all my sound deadener/insulation laid down today.



I also got my fuse block mounted under the dash, and wired the steering column. Still a big rat's nest of wire to route to various parts of the car.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-05-19 05:15 PM - Post#2781558    
    In response to 1971BB427

Started back in on the wiring, and ran into trouble. First I decided to mount the headlight switch, and use the factory hole. I put the fuse block too close to the dash, and being pretty high up it interfered with the switch mounting. So had to move the fuse block back towards the firewall to make room. Then I got to routing wiring, and decided to make up the dash area. Got wires sorted out and hooked up all the gauges. Then went to mount the panel and my panel hit the headlight switch too!! So again I had to stop and trim the panel off as short as possible on the left end so it wouldn't hit the switch.
Finally I got the gauges and steering column all done, and tidied up the dash wiring. Then I laid out the rear harness and saw it had tons of length. So instead of running it on the floor, I snaked it up the A pillar and above the driver's door on that side. Then dropped it down the C pillar at the rear, and into the trunk area. Still lots leftover to make up the taillights, especially since they're up high on the sides about halfway down the 1/4 panels.
I pulled all the extra wiring out of the looms that is for items I don't have nor ever will have. Also have about 10 extra circuits I'll land on a terminal strip so if I want to ever add anything it will be easy to just land the power on the strip.
Masked off the dash, and engine bay also, so I can begin sanding the body down to prepare to shoot epoxy sealer. Next week looks like we will get into the 50's, and if I'm ready I can add a little heat to the shop and prime the whole body.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6288
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
12-05-19 06:26 PM - Post#2781560    
    In response to 1971BB427

You do great work. I used a Y N Z
on my 48. The harness does go up and over following the roof.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-06-19 02:54 PM - Post#2781609    
    In response to Keith_Knox

Thanks!!
This one is an Ebay harness that looks much like many other brands, but has the added feature of being universal. It comes with GM, FOrd, and Mopar instructions to tailor it and pin the steering column connector to whatever brand it's going in. Takes a little more time to install, but considering it was $85 shipped it's a great bargain.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


Edited by 1971BB427 on 12-06-19 02:55 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-06-19 02:57 PM - Post#2781610    
    In response to 1971BB427

My tail is dragging! 4 hours of non stop paint stripping with the paint stripper discs. But those "sponge" looking discs sure do a great job, and pretty fast. My little Harbor freight 4.5" angle grinder never shut off for more than a minute to move my step stool, or change locations.
Took another hour after I quit to finish vacuuming up dust! Didn't want to use air to blow it out as I figured it would end up settling back on the car again. I'll have multiple wipe downs before it's clean enough to shoot the epoxy primer.
The good news is I didn't find a single speck of body filler other than what I spread on the patch panels I put in. I did however find one more rust hole in the top of the cowl. Also found some dents above the rear window that appear to be from some kid climbing up on the roof. But the rest the roof is perfect, so guess they didn't get far. I think most will tap out with a hammer and dolly, and need almost no filler.
You can maybe see them in this image about 6" above the window. Just a few ripples.









Didn't strip the trunk lid or fenders as the lid is fiberglass, and fenders have been smoothed out already, and can just get primer now. I will eventually shoot the glass frontend, but not until it's test fitted and I know if it's ready to go on.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-08-19 01:26 PM - Post#2781717    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got out there this morning and put my portable heater inside the car as Lash suggested. Then ran to Home Depot for tack cloth and a bunny suit with a hood to keep the paint off me. When I got home I did a dry wipe down, and then a second. Then did a few wipe downs with the tack cloths, and mixed up some primer.
I got my big 40 gal. air compressor out of storage, and set it up outside the shop. Then ran the hose inside and hooked up my old spray gun. I did a test spray and the darn gun wouldn't work properly. Fortunately I had a second brand new gun in the sidelines, so I grabbed it quickly and assembled it. Poured the primer in and went to work spraying. Of course I shut the heater off first and took it out of the car.
It laid down really well, and I did as a friend suggested in a phone call, and added some "fast" reducer to make it dry quicker with low temps. I painted it in 4 sections starting with the roof, then the trunk area, and finally each side. I had an issues with the seal on the lid of my gravity feed gun, and it dripped occasionally which created some runs where it landed on wet primer. And of course I had some other runs from getting the coats too heavy. But all in all it went great, and it's done.
I now recall how much I dislike the smell of automotive paint too! Even with a good respirator on it just doesn't really stop all the smell. At least the respirator kept me from getting a headache from the fumes!














1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1220
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
12-08-19 04:40 PM - Post#2781737    
    In response to 1971BB427

I could sit there and look at that fine piece of machinery all day long,


VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-08-19 05:46 PM - Post#2781746    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

  • Bad56Sedan Said:
I could sit there and look at that fine piece of machinery all day long,




Thanks! I went back out later this evening just to remove the masking, and see how it looked dry. It's not quite shiny, but a nice satin look to it.
I finally got my -10an to -6an reducers yesterday, so I can run the fuel line now. Running 3/8" hard line from tank to a filter just ahead of the fuel pump.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-26-19 06:08 PM - Post#2782990    
    In response to 1971BB427

Stopped by Old Car Parts here in Portland to see if they had a pair of chrome headlight rings. They found three of them in varying states of less than perfect. But less than perfect is perfect for my build. One was a bit tarnished, one nice chrome, but missing the tensioning screw setup, and the last one had the setup, but a big dent down towards the bottom. So I worked a deal on all three, so I could piece two decent ones together.
While I was there I asked about the possibility of a locking outside door handle.....with key! Of course the owner said they never got anything like that in. Then he walked off to the back. As I was looking over my trim rings he came back out and laid a outside handle with a key in it on the counter!! So I now have a locking door handle for one side, which is all they originally had anyway. Chevy only put a lock in the passenger door back then, but my car has them in both doors, and no keys. So I'll lock the passenger door from inside, and the driver's door with my key.
​​​​​​​ When I got home I took the rings to my basement shop, and got out my sand bag and a block of wood. I tapped the dent out of the one trim ring, and it came out great. Especially since the dent is on the bottom where nobody will see minor imperfections. I polished the other decent one with Mother's and it came out good also. Success!
And my -6AN kit of fittings and hose arrived also. So I can plumb up the carb to fuel pump and finish my plumbing too. That is if it ever gets warm enough again! Barely broke into the 40's today!
I did stay in the shop long enough to mount my taillight housings, so I can finish the wiring in the back. Still need to set the front fenders/hood on and mount the headlamp buckets so I can finish that wiring too.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
12-26-19 09:56 PM - Post#2783003    
    In response to 1971BB427

Had one of those gut wrenching feelings the other day when my starter didn't fit. I began to wonder if my flexplate was wrong too? The flexplate on my 1990 350 has a big weight on it, and I was surprised to see that since I'd read all SBC except the SBC 400 were internally balanced.
So today I spent some time researching various SBC flexplates. It seems that 1955-'85 are 2 piece main seals and internally balanced. Except the SBC 400 that uses a special externally balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer. Then in 1986 Chevy decided to really screw things up! They added a externallly balanced flexplate, but kept the internal balancing enough to use the earlier internal balance harmonic balancer!
So the 1986-'97 are only half external balanced, and it's done so at the flexplate. Explains why mine has a externally balanced flexplate, but regular harmonic balancer. I can relax and not freak out over this now.
Another new learning experience for this old dinosaur!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-02-20 03:38 PM - Post#2783523    
    In response to 1971BB427

So how does a guy fill tranny fluid in a dipstick tube that's almost horizontal? Seems like a perfect way to end up with fluid all over the top of your clean engine to me. Guess I'll have to get some clear fuel line and hook it to my funnel. Then slide it down the tube far enough and wrap a rag around the end to avoid drips.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Broo102 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 582
Broo102
Loc: Huntington Beach, CA.
Reg: 09-30-14
01-02-20 08:49 PM - Post#2783561    
    In response to 1971BB427

rotate the trans dip stick tube to the up position?

Thanks!
Bru
John 3:16
32 Chev. 5 Win. Sports Coupe
47 Chev. convertible in progress


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-03-20 05:40 PM - Post#2783632    
    In response to Broo102

It's bent to sit in this location, and bolts to the bellhousing. It wont clear in any other position, and still fit into the trans.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-08-20 03:45 PM - Post#2784006    
    In response to 1971BB427

I've been pondering how to do the headlights and turn signals on the coupe. I already purchased sealed beam buckets off a Ford truck, but I couldn't see a good way to be able to adjust them for level. And then there was the turn signal issue too. The old headlights had the turn signals in the headlamp above center, and I kinda liked that. I had a couple LED type chrome pods I considered, but wasn't really sold on them either.
So I hit the Pick N Pull today and went looking for donors. I ended up pulling halogen sockets and reflectors from a wrecked Ford SUV, and tore the busted up lenses off. Then I stopped at Oreillys and got a pair of 1157 sockets. So this was what I started with:



And these old reflectors and buckets from my coupe:



I started by using an old 3" header collector as a pattern, and traced a circle around the donor reflectors.



Then I cut the reflectors down with my bandsaw, and ground them smooth to the line I marked. After that I removed the sockets from the coupe's reflectors, and opened up both holes larger. Since all the silver was off the copper reflectors, I shot them with rattlecan chrome.



After shooting them I pre drilled the donor halogen sockets and then held them centered on the reflectors and drilled one hole for a pop rivet. Then drilled the other three holes. After the new sockets were in I installed the signal sockets in where the original sockets were. I had to notch the donor halogen sockets as they were slightly large and covered the turn signal hole.







Once they were finished I took them over to my quad and used the battery to test the headlights and turn signals. They work great and the turn signals are plenty bright enough to be seen with the headlights on. I think I'll likely use LED headlight lamps instead of these halogen, just so they last longer and have no maintenance issues.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1220
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
01-08-20 05:42 PM - Post#2784014    
    In response to 1971BB427

Only thing to me that is acceptable is upgrade, rework the originals like you are doing!
I never liked those turn signals Frenched in to the bottom of the front renders, looks cheap too me.
just an opinion
Just saying

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-08-20 09:17 PM - Post#2784029    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

The pods I considered using were shaped like the taillight pods at the rear, except they are chrome. But I couldn't find a location to install them that I liked. Ford put a similar pod on the side of the '33/'34 Fords, and I considered that. But they looked odd held up there. I finally decided if I used them I'd mount them below the front fenders on a bracket off the frame rails. That way they'd be seen, but no new holes drilled.
But when I began disassembling the headlights to convert them it was just too obvious that they should remain where they used to be. Even if it's a hotrod, some things just look good the way Chevy did it in 1939. But I did have to modify the wiring since the old headlights had no high/low beams. So the rubber grommet with 3 holes had to go and be replaced with a single hole grommet that could hold 5 wires for headlights and park/turn signals, plus a ground.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-19-20 03:40 PM - Post#2784683    
    In response to 1971BB427

Finished sanding the grille today! Gave it a couple coats of 2x primer and then after that dried I shot the VHT graphite wheel paint on it. Didn't come out quite as dark as I expected, so chrome doesn't contrast as much as I hoped. But I think I'll leave it for now.





I'd love a pretty chrome grille, but they cost as much as $1500-$1600, so I decided repairing mine and painting it would be more suitable for the budget.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
01-24-20 12:51 PM - Post#2785081    
    In response to 1971BB427

Beginning the battle with this extremely poor fitting fiberglass frontend clip! It sits about 1.5" high, and it's caused from either poor storage sag, or poorly built orignally. Either way, it's way off and way too thick to deal with as it is.







So I spent a couple hours on the fiberglass before the dust and just putting the front clip on and off finally got to me. But it is beginning to move a bit!
I started with my cutoff disc and cut through the brace. It turned out to be what my wife calls "floral foam" that florists use. The floral foam was covered in a thick layer of fiberglass to form the brace. Then I made cuts about halfway through the hood to give it some relief, but also so I could judge how deep I was going while sanding.





After the cuts I cut through the brace, and removed all of the horizontal bracing. Then I used a flapper disc to begin to grind away the surface too thin it down and allow it to flex more.





Didn't want to go too much without checking, so I put it on the car again to see if it released enough to move. The first time made little difference, so I removed a bit more and tried it again. I got to about 3/16" thick and it's beginning to pull down into shape.
As this image shows, it still needs to be thinned more to allow it to drop. It's sitting tight on top of the cowl and the sheer thickness is too much to allow it to flex, and the thickness is greater than the stock hood, so it just sits higher.





I need to remove more fiberglass from the inside corners of the hood to let that area relax more. But my rear was dragging, so I quit for the day. I did test fit the grille also, and that area needs work too. The lip they have inside the opening is too thick, and the wrong angle. It may need to be completely cut off and reattached. Or maybe a a metal lip glued along the edge so the grille sits in the opening better. Right now I have to squeeze the grille width together just to get it to sit in the opening. It's just sitting in there, so a bit lower than the finished mounting will be.



Put the bricks back on the fenders so they keep working to help it settle down hopefully.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-08-20 09:15 PM - Post#2786147    
    In response to 1971BB427

Change in direction. I decided the one piece glass frontend was too far out of whack as is, so I've dissected it. I cut the hood loose from the fenders and grille, and removed a bunch of crappy glass work on the hand laminated pieces. It is very strong, but so thick it wont fit in place and look even close to decent.
So my new method will be a front clip sans the side hood panels. The hood will be connected to the front fenders via Dzus fasteners that will allow the frontend to tilt open with or without the hood in place. I will also have the option of simply twisting a few fasteners and set the hood aside and run with or without the hood.
The fenders, grille, and hood will have a steel tube framework inside that I'll attach to the fiberglass with 3M 8115 body panel adhesive. The framework will keep the frontend rigid whether open or closed, and with or without the hood in place.

Here's the mock up so far. Two hood pins at the cowl, and 4 Dzus fasteners clipping the hood to the grille plate.







1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6288
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
02-09-20 09:20 AM - Post#2786167    
    In response to 1971BB427

Probably a good decision.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-09-20 02:03 PM - Post#2786194    
    In response to Keith_Knox

I spent some time today measuring and adjusting everything to ensure the front fenders were the same height, and perfect relationship to the body, and the frame. I ended up shifting it slightly to the driver's side, and slightly back also to get the whole thing lined up. Then looked at the hood to grille again, and after some frustration with it still not in alignment I made a template off the top of the grille from cardboard to see which side was off. This was likely a big part of the passenger side wanting to hang out further than the driver's side when I tried to pull the grille into alignment before.
I laid the cardboard on the top of one grille side and marked it. Then cut it out with scissors and laid it over the passenger side half of the hood lip. It matched perfectly, so I laid it over the driver's side hood lip and to my horror it was off a half inch between the peak of the hood and the opening on the side! No wonder the grille top wanted to extend out farther than the hood! I made another cardboard template of the pass. side hood contour and used it to check the driver's side, and found the curve was much less and pretty flat! It just wont ever line up as it is.
So I marked out the offending area and grabbed the cutoff wheel and went after it. I made cuts clear through an inch apart up to the edge of the affected area. Then I bent up a piece of my 3/4" steel tube to match the contour I needed and clamped it on the backside to force the "fingers out". After forcing them out I turned on the heat and warmed up the shop. Mixed up some fiberglass resin and laid down a few layers over the top side of the cuts to strengthen, and hold them.



Left the tubing on the backside and scuffed up the fiberglass cloth, and gave it a coat of Duraglass filler. Once that set up I removed the tubing and gave it another coat that got it out further towards the ends.



When the final coat dried I held up the template and it looks like I'm slightly high now on the curved shape. I'll knock it down with a flapper disc, and then check it against the grille to see if it aligns better now.



Duraglass is really tough to work with for more than just rough coats. So I'll knock it down slightly low and give the area a skim coat of filler I can actually sand and shape. Hopefully this will get things a little closer to fitting. I sure hope so, as I'm tired of fiberglass, and everything to do with it!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-10-20 02:28 PM - Post#2786248    
    In response to 1971BB427

Well part of this nightmare got solved just a few minutes ago!! I was perusing Craigslist, and nothing of interest. But I decided to check Seattle 3.5 hrs. away, and there's a pair of original front fenders, complete with the headlight housings for sale!
I contacted the guy to ask price and location, and he tells me $200 and he lives just 15 miles from me! I rushed over to see them and they're rust free, and no dings! One fender has a 1.5" long crack that will need to be welded, but that's it!
I'm super excited to have real steel, and I'll see if I use the hood or not. If it fits the steel fenders better, then I may retain the fiberglass hood. It feels like a huge weight lifted off my build with great fenders to restart with.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-11-20 02:35 PM - Post#2786328    
    In response to 1971BB427

I got out there in the mid 30's cold this morning and stripped one fender, and the mating edge of the other fender. Shot the edges with primer so I could bolt them up. Then headed over to Old Car Parts and made a deal on the chin piece he had. It's extremely nice, and was blasted already. Just needed the two dents pounded out and then shot with primer too.





After that I bolted the fenders up to the body with the 5 holes that mate there. What a fantastic fit! They aligned great with the body, and I finally have both front tires sitting inside the fenders. With the glass fenders it was shifted to one side enough that it looked like my axle was off to one side! Now the hood aligns much better with the fenders too! No time to check the grille alignment as my buddy needed me to help wire his winch for his new tilt trailer.
But it's sure nice now, even if it's not completely cleaned up yet! Little bit of filler in the top of this fender.



This one is the one with a crack I need to weld up.



Hard to tell yet, but this opening sure looks closer to the grille for fit!



I'll have to start measuring and making all the brackets and mounts to secure the front part of the clip now.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
rcr3 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3234
rcr3
Age: 68
Loc: MANHEIM PA. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
02-12-20 05:34 AM - Post#2786348    
    In response to 1971BB427

Good deal on the fenders!

'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab






 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-13-20 03:38 PM - Post#2786442    
    In response to rcr3

  • rcr3 Said:
Good deal on the fenders!



Thanks. I thought it was a very good deal, and timely too! Only wish I'd found them before I did so much work.


Got the grille bolted in place today, and it fit great! Before bolting it in I made up a sheet metal plate for the chin piece just to reinforce the area. I shot it with etching primer on the back and then pop riveted it in. Gave the top side a coat of more primer so I can just paint it later.



One of the upper fender supports that bolts into the headlight housing was gone, so I cut up some cardboard and made a template off the other. Reversed it and bent it up from a piece of 18 ga. sheet steel. The original is a stamped sheet metal piece, so I duplicated that. Had to cut internal corners, and then weld it together after making the bends.



I drilled the single hole with the unibit, and then clamped the bracket under the fender and drilled the two holes that go inside the headlamp. Bolted it up under the fender, and I'll make braces that go from the frame to these later.



Bolted the grille in with 1/4-20 bolts, and the biggest fender washers I have for better support.



Then I made up another sheet metal plate for the top of the grille. This will serve several purposes. Strengthening the grille so it wont flex. Keeping the incoming air trapped so it has to go through the radiator, and wont go over the top of it. And a place to mount my front hood pins that will hold the front of the hood down.



Tried the hood back on and the fit was much better! It needs very little beyond some surface grinding to lower the side I built up. I also needed to take some material off the edge that contacts the grille top trim. It touched on the driver's side, but was 1/4" off on the passenger side. So I traced along the edge with a felt pen and took some off with the flapper disc.





You can see here where the passenger side was just a tiny bit higher.



A little skim coat of filler and some hand blocking, and the hood will be ready for primer.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-15-20 04:31 PM - Post#2786598    
    In response to 1971BB427

Fired up the heater and went to work building braces today so I could get the jackstands out from under the front fenders. I have no idea how the fenders were supported, but I've got none of those parts, so this was my plan. I made up these vertical braces to hold it up.





Once bolted on it felt really solid. But then I grabbed the fenders and wiggled them laterally and they moved quite a bit. There's a lot of tin hanging out there, so I made lateral braces from the frame out to existing holes in the lower fender lip. I couldn't find any info on lower braces either, but found holes on either side of the bumper bracket reliefs in the fenders. So attached to those holes, and they worked great to tighten it up.
I grabbed my nutsert tool and installed nuts into a bunch of existing holes, which saved a lot of time, and let me use blind holes. The more I use the nutserts, the more I love them. Used up all my 5/16 nutserts, so need to order more soon!
After that I got out the '32 Ford radiator, and built a pair of bottom brackets to hold it. The mounts were 1.5" narrower than my frame rail width, so I added 2.5" to the bottom of each frame rail with plates, and bolted them in to the frame lip. One hole was there, so only needed to add a 2nd to each side. Then a single bolt through the radiator mount, and some rubber under it to isolate it.



Radiator is REALLY close fitting! The brackets on the upper sides are less than 1/4" from the fenders, and that's moving it back close to the fan to get to a wider area.





I still have to fabricate upper mounts from some point to the two side brackets. There's also a center top plate that could be used, but I'd like to not use the two stock rods back to the firewall. If I can locate some nice chrome, or polished aluminum 3/8"rods I'd use them, but otherwise I make a bracket to tie the radiator into the grille top.
Top hose is a gimme to find and install. Bottom is a very short 90 degree hose that isn't maybe 12" total. Might be interesting to see what i can find in a 1.75" hose that's a short 90!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


Edited by 1971BB427 on 02-15-20 04:32 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-17-20 03:17 PM - Post#2786745    
    In response to 1971BB427


I got my brace built and installed to tie the fenders together today. Took no time at all to build it, but a lot more time to take everything apart to sandwich it into the fenders and my other braces. It stiffened things up so much I bet I could stand on those fenders now! The U shape will give me plenty of clearance for the fan.





I also made up my 3/8 radiator support rods. That took way more to thread than I ever guessed! I figured it's aluminum, so couldn't be that hard? But the short threads at the radiator end were brutal to get done. A 1/4 turn at a time or the die stuck to the rod! I decided the other end's 2" of threads would be impossible at this rate, so I turned the rod down on my 1" belt sander to reduce diameter. I think the 3/8" size they call it was much larger! Even after reducing it was tough, but not nearly like before!
After threading both ends I bent the offsets to get them widened, and drilled holes at both ends. They went in great, and the radiator is also really solid now.







Next I bent up some 1/8" x 1" steel flat bar and drilled two holes in it for my hidden hood pins. I drilled two pilot holes first, and laid it on my grille top plate and then opened all the holes up to 1/2". I bent up the flat bar so it contoured to the inside of the hood. Then spaced it up and put it over the hood pins so I could bond it to the hood. At this point things went a bit sideways as they sometimes do. I set up the 3M panel bond in the double caulk gun, but no matter how hard I squeezed only the gray half moved! The cream colored half wouldn't budge at all, and eventually it started bending the caulk gun. So I stopped and removed the tubes from the gun. I grabbed my band saw and cut the ends off of both tubes, and used a paint stir stick to dig it out of the tubes. I mixed it together on a pallet, and applied it to the inside of the hood where I'd pre marked it. Then sat the hood in place over my bracket and let it set up. It worked fine, and the bracket is extremely solid. I'll need to open up the holes in the bracket slightly so the bracket slides over the hood pins easier, but not much. Maybe 9/16" should do it.
Stripped both headlights, and shot them with primer. I need to weld these holes up on the side, so didn't bolt them down yet. There's one hole per light, but both on the right side, so maybe these were off two different cars and both from the same side?




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-20-20 04:16 PM - Post#2786953    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got the rust hole welded up on the passenger lower front fender, and the crack in the driver's front fender welded up. Also welded up the two 5/8" holes in the headlight housings. Then I stripped the rest the paint off the driver's side fender and after prepping both fenders I shot them with primer to make sure they don't flash rust.
Got out the Rustoleum gloss black and painted the inside of both fenders also. Should have done the weld repairs, and painted them inside and out before hanging them as it would have been way easier. I ended up with gloss black everywhere I could get it on me! Hands, face, hair, you name it. Not a fun cleanup, but they're ready for bodywork now.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 250

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
02-21-20 01:55 PM - Post#2787013    
    In response to 1971BB427

Well the first light of day in over 6 months! And I'm very happy with the stance, and pretty much everything so far. Got a tow strap on the rear and pulled it out front with the old Suburban this morning. Took some pictures while I waited for my nephew to get here. It's on our sloped front yard, so sitting low on the passenger side, and high on the driver's side. But just slightly uphill in front.
It's nice to see it from more than 3'-4' away finally.











My neighbor came over to see it also, so the 3 of us pushed it back into the shop easily.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


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