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Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-17-19 03:29 PM - Post#2775744    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got a new heavier circuit run out to the shop today, so I can weld with my Mig turned up full and not have tripping breakers constantly! Ran it with oversized wire, and a new route to reduce the length of the run, and also reduce voltage loss from resistance. So it should be good to go, and not have any issues now.
Will get back on fabricating mounts tomorrow, and test out the new feed to the shop.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-18-19 12:04 PM - Post#2775815    
    In response to 1971BB427

Tack welded the mounts to the base plates, and then removed them from the car to weld them right side up. Cleaned up the shackles and bolted it all together again. Then tacked all four base plates to the frame with a single tack on each corner. Nothing permanent in case I need to adjust once the rear axle is done, and engine weight is on the suspension. Then if it's all still good I can permanently weld it up.
But it's sitting on the tires now, and ready for me to move to the rear suspension. Having a heck of a time figuring out how the rear shackles come apart? They have a single bolt in the middle hole, but when I removed it nothing seems to want to come apart. I pried and beat on the shackles, but they seem to be pressed on the top and bottom shafts. Those shafts are hollow and have zerk fittings. Removed the fittings, but no joy. Have to do some internet searching and then go caveman on them if I can't figure out how to gently remove them.
Anybody ever taken this old style of rear shackle off, and can give me a hint on how they come apart??



Also got the permanent front crossmember tacked in. Made it from some round tube I had leftover from the '63 Falcon build. Looks better than box tubing up front.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-18-19 05:19 PM - Post#2775838    
    In response to 1971BB427

Thanks to a Google search I found an online copy of the 1939 Chevy shop manual! It shows the rear shackles are tapered pins on each end, and they simply hold the shackle with the taper, and that single center bolt.
I'll make up a piece of running thread with a nut on each end so I can put it between the shackles to push them apart. Then with tension on them I should be able to give them a good strike with the hammer and pop them free.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1939/39c...


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-19-19 04:17 PM - Post#2775911    
    In response to 1971BB427

Went over to my neighbor Mike's today to pull the body off one more time on his '35. It will be off for some time to do bodywork and seal it. 
 After an short day I came home to find about 5 packages sitting at my door. So I grabbed them and headed to the shop. The 5/8"-LH heim joints were in the packages so I made up my tie rod! 1.25" OD tube to eliminate any flex or death wobble.


 
Then I moved to the rear of the car and pulled the 9" Ford rear axle so I can begin reworking leaf springs and install the 8.8" Ford axle.

Figured out how to get those pesky shackles apart on the rear too! I cut a 4" piece of 3/8" all thread rod and using a couple nuts and washers between the shackles, I began spreading pressure off the center hole in the shackles. Didn't take much to push the shackles apart and free them from the tapered pins!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-21-19 03:24 PM - Post#2776072    
    In response to 1971BB427

Sold the '70 Mustang 9" rear axle today. Put it on Craigslist, and it took a little over an hour to go away!!!
While I was waiting for the guy to come pick up the old axle, I cut the perches off the 8.8" Ford, and disassembled the spring packs. They had 8 leafs in the packs, which is why it sat up like a 4x4 in the rear! I removed 5 of them, and I'll see how it sits once I have the new axle in and weight on it. Then add springs if it needs more to sit right.
I relocated the spring center pin 2" back, so the wheels will be better centered inside the opening when I radius them.








1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-24-19 01:41 PM - Post#2776363    
    In response to 1971BB427

I forgot how big and heavy that 8.8" is! Supposed to be lighter than a 9", but not sure how they weighed it? Sure feels way heavier to my back! Got the 8.8" under the car and just U bolted in, so I could see how the springs worked after removing 5 leafs. Didn't hardly notice much drop in the rear. It is softer and much easier to compress the springs, but only a couple inches lower. I will probably pull it apart once more and take all bu the main leaf out, and then add in 2-3 flat leafs from the truck front axle to see if that makes it settle more. It's sitting dead level now, but I want to remove a leaf or two up front to soften the ride, and it will sit too downhill then.
Gave away my rollers to the guy who bought the 9", so dug out my old wrinkle wall slicks and bolted them on the back to see how it all cleared, and how it sat. They are just over an inch taller, so that will bring the rear down with the real tires on it.
Checked the openings on the rear fender, and they wont need much removed when I radius them! The move 2" back centered the wheels perfectly, and maybe 1" off front and rear, and whatever off the top to get clearance for travel.









1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-25-19 12:06 PM - Post#2776427    
    In response to 1971BB427

The two spring shops we have around here said they no longer re-arc springs due to liability reasons. They said if they changed an old spring and it later broke they could be sued. I said they could be sued if a new spring they made broke also, but of course they said they trust their new material, and their workers. I understand actually, but sad it got to this.
My springs needed to be flatter, so less arc, not more. Today I dug the '58 Chevy truck front spring packs out of the scrap pile, and tore them apart. I chose 3 full leafs, and one shorty (just for thickness) and cut them up and buffed them clean. Then I removed all but the main leaf from the last 3 springs in my '39, and using a 5/16" centering bolt and C clamps, I stacked the springs together, and installed a nut on the bolt.
I reassembled the spring plate and U bolts, and it sits slightly lower. But the best part is it's not mushy like it was before, so I think I can live with this and make it work. If anything needs more, I'll add a 1" or 2" lowering block as I've still got enough extra length on the U bolts to get 1"-1.5" blocks in. Probably need new U bolts to get 2" in though.



Then I decided to see how close the fender opening is with the 2" relocation, and new springs. It's extremely close, and looks like it will only need a small "haircut" to be perfect. The front edge is tight against the tires, and I can't quite get the fenders fully bolted up yet. I measured these slicks to compare to the ones I'll be running, and they're extremely close in diameter. I'll wait until I get closer to trimming, and put the real slicks on for that part.

[img]h]ttps://i.imgur.com/Cj8V8lQl.jpg[/img]




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-26-19 02:47 PM - Post#2776527    
    In response to 1971BB427

Made a parts run today for nuts and bolts. Man those grade 8 hardware pieces are getting crazy priced! A handful of bolts, nuts, washers, and locking nuts was $35!!!

Came home and replaced the temporary bolts in the frontend, and then decided to swap rear tires so I could see where I'm really at with the fenders. Removed the slicks and bolted up the fenders with all the hardware. Then I put the pie crust slicks and wheels on to see how they fit. As I suspected the tires sit inside the fenders more than I thought they would. So have to think on it awhile before I do anything. They don't look bad inside, but I had my mind set on about 3/4" outside, so not sure if I'll space them out, or leave them in?
The fenders of course have been reworked, and repaired previously, and now I know how much! One side is pretty centered on the tire, and the other is tight at the front, and big at the back. Also one opening is also larger front to back by 1". All this needs to be addressed regardless of how I go on the wheels and tires.

Right rear.






Front edge of the right side almost touching.



Rear edge. This is the side that's 1" larger.



Left side, rear edge:



Left side front edge:



Whoever worked on the fenders made a very large 1" rolled edge around the openings. I need to look at an original fender to see if they have anything even slightly similar? I may cut the entire rolled edge off, and then weld on a much smaller 1/4" edge bead.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-28-19 08:27 PM - Post#2776662    
    In response to 1971BB427

I spent about 4 hours on the car today and really got nothing done that shows much. The center bar for the windshield had all the screws for inner/outer trim rusted solid. So I cut them all off and tapped out 3 of the holes. Two others broke off and couldn't be saved, so I ground the metal and made 8-32 nut plates and welded them to the bar.
 Then I began rough sanding the joints on the patch panels and my angle grinder started cutting out. So tore that apart and shortened up the cord to get rid of broken wires to get it working again. Have 3 of these grinders, and need all three going with different discs sometimes!
 After that I did a little welding on the tubular crossmember up front to make it permanent. Then called it a day since I wasn't getting much done. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. Going to assemble the lower end of the engine and install rockers and pushrods.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-30-19 03:36 PM - Post#2776787    
    In response to 1971BB427

Back on track today after taking the day off on Sunday. I had one of those "duh" moments last night and realized I was overlooking an easy fix for lowering the rear of the coupe! Didn't really want lowering blocks, but I could make lowering blocks that were sort of part of the spring perches! So I dug out a old pair of cut up traction bars and used 4" long pieces off it to make lowering blocks.



I had an extra 1.5" on the U bolts and the rectangle stock is 1" so I drilled holes for the center pins on the springs and removed my perches to tack weld these pieces to the perches. Did one side at a time to make it easier, and keep things lined up where I had them. Did exactly as I hoped, and the car sits slightly lower in back than the front.

After that I got the rear main seal installed, and the new chrome pan. Then installed the pushrods and rockers, and semi adjusted them to keep them in place. Put the mechanical fuel pump on it and set the valve covers and intake on to keep the dirt out. Covered with a old towel, and set it in the corner for now.



These were the $25 painted valve covers I found at a swap meet. Stripped the paint and put them on my buffer to get them shined up a bit. Still need a final polish, but I like them. I'm going to have a local trophy shop make up a couple plates to fit into the rectangle where they once had "Mr Gasket" emblems. They were gone when I bought them, so have to think of something to put on the engraved plates?





Seam sealed the under side of the patch panels too, since it got into the low 60's and figured it would set up finally.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-01-19 01:54 PM - Post#2776861    
    In response to 1971BB427

Made a run to Pick N Pull today to look at pedal assemblies for a hanging pedal. I tried to pull an S10 and gave up. Too hard to get to all the bolts, which made me decide it wouldn't work well anyway. Then looked at a '65 Chevy truck, but way too big!
Finally went back to a Subaru, since I used a Legacy pedal assembly and master on my Austin. I found a 1998 Impreza there, and 4 bolts and a pin off and it was out of there! These are one of the nicest hanging pedals around that's not custom made. Clean, simple, and has a brake switch built into it. Not too deep, so it works with older dashboards that aren't deep like my '39. And the best buy around at only $15!
I'll mate it to a 2nd Gen Camaro disc/drum dual manual master, and make up a plate for the inside of the firewall to brace the pedal, and bolt the master to. Should be an easy installation on the '39, I hope!




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-03-19 02:36 PM - Post#2777009    
    In response to 1971BB427

Had to run to Home Depot this morning to get a couple new hasps for the shop side door. So picked up a gallon of gloss black Rust-oleum paint and painted up the floor.





It will make a good base for the sound deadener whenever I get to that point.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-05-19 07:12 PM - Post#2777161    
    In response to 1971BB427

Really big day today!!!



Bolted the engine and trans together, and put the SS fenderwell headers on the engine, and lowered it into the chassis!



Got some measurements and used the 2" box tubing to fabricate motor mounts. Cut it down at a 45 degree where I welded it to the steel sleeve that bolts to the motor mount, and then tacked it good to the frame. Need to pull the headers to finish welding the motor mounts in.







I was going to just block up the tranny since I had no rubber mount, but ran to the chain store and they actually had a mount! So I built the trans mount too, but didn't get it drilled and bolted to the frame rails. Just too pooped to go further today.



Had to cut the bottom of the center tube open as the mount had a stud and needed access to get to it for a nut and washer.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-06-19 05:19 PM - Post#2777204    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got a late start on the '39 today, but wanted to at least get the steering box sorted out. It seems I got in my own way when I welded in the round crossmember at the end of the frame rails. I planned to go front side steer, and needed that area to mount the Vega box in. So had to tack in a temp piece on top of the frame, and then cut out the round tubular piece. Welded in the mount for the Vega box, and then welded in another new tubular crossmember a couple inches further back.
Then I made up a drag link from the 1.25" DOM tubing, and hooked it up to the Vega box temporarily with some 1/2" bolts. Need to go buy some more spendy 5/8" NF Grade 8 bolts for the drag link, and the steering box mounting bolts.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-08-19 01:58 PM - Post#2777394    
    In response to 1971BB427

Installed the nuts and bolts for the drag link to complete the front steering.



Then using some tubing to simulate where the double D shaft's path would be, I determined where to punch the firewall for the steering column. Before punching a hole I put a seat in on the driver's side and blocked it up where it would sit level. Then used another piece of tube to determine steering column location, and angle to make sure the previous hole was correct.
Punched the hole and dropped the steering column through it, and tied it up with wire. Looks like it needs about a 2"-3" drop below the dash. Since it's a tilt column and I had it straight, I'll go for 2" and I can tilt it down if needed.





The way the seat lined up, one mounting hole was right over a body bolt. So I removed that bolt and cut another longer to allow the seat to share the same bolt, and be bolted with separate nuts above the body nut. Two of the other three tabs were fine, but needed slight bending to be parallel to the floor. The 3rd had a vertical tab, so I cut it off and welded on a horizontal tab to match the other three.
Climbed in and checked the position, and it was great. So ready to make up the drop for the column, and the double D shaft and joints when those parts arrive. In the meantime I need to rebuild the steering column upper bushing. Didn't notice it before, but there's a ton of slop at the upper column, and with the wheel on it's really exaggerated!

I also looked at how to mate the Impreza brake pedal to the Corvette master cylinder. I made a template from cardboard and drilled holes for the brake pedal mounting points. Then cut out the center hole, and drilled holes through the cardboard, and the pedal assembly for the master cylinder bolts. Bolted it all together to check fit, and I'll use it to build a 3/16" thick plate to be sandwiched between the master and pedal on the firewall. I'll tack weld the bolts to the plate after drilling and tapping the holes so I can use one wrench to tighten everything up.
The plate will be larger than the cardboard pattern to eliminate any chance of firewall flexing.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-08-19 01:58 PM - Post#2777395    
    In response to 1971BB427

Installed the nuts and bolts for the drag link to complete the front steering.



Then using some tubing to simulate where the double D shaft's path would be, I determined where to punch the firewall for the steering column. Before punching a hole I put a seat in on the driver's side and blocked it up where it would sit level. Then used another piece of tube to determine steering column location, and angle to make sure the previous hole was correct.
Punched the hole and dropped the steering column through it, and tied it up with wire. Looks like it needs about a 2"-3" drop below the dash. Since it's a tilt column and I had it straight, I'll go for 2" and I can tilt it down if needed.





The way the seat lined up, one mounting hole was right over a body bolt. So I removed that bolt and cut another longer to allow the seat to share the same bolt, and be bolted with separate nuts above the body nut. Two of the other three tabs were fine, but needed slight bending to be parallel to the floor. The 3rd had a vertical tab, so I cut it off and welded on a horizontal tab to match the other three.
Climbed in and checked the position, and it was great. So ready to make up the drop for the column, and the double D shaft and joints when those parts arrive. In the meantime I need to rebuild the steering column upper bushing. Didn't notice it before, but there's a ton of slop at the upper column, and with the wheel on it's really exaggerated!

I also looked at how to mate the Impreza brake pedal to the Corvette master cylinder. I made a template from cardboard and drilled holes for the brake pedal mounting points. Then cut out the center hole, and drilled holes through the cardboard, and the pedal assembly for the master cylinder bolts. Bolted it all together to check fit, and I'll use it to build a 3/16" thick plate to be sandwiched between the master and pedal on the firewall. I'll tack weld the bolts to the plate after drilling and tapping the holes so I can use one wrench to tighten everything up.
The plate will be larger than the cardboard pattern to eliminate any chance of firewall flexing.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-10-19 09:29 AM - Post#2777556    
    In response to 1971BB427

The tilt column I have was messed up. Missing the lock plate for the top, plus the spring, and other internal parts. And when I began looking for the missing parts the total cost came up too high to make the column worth saving. I made another trip to the salvage yard and for $46 just pulled another one. Got lucky and found one from a Chevy truck that was a manual floor shift, so no shifter base on the column. So a nice clean black column to start with.
It had a angled floor plate that was the opposite angle I need, so cut that off and will use the separate bolt in floor plate my other column came with.
Hung the horn ring on, just to get a look at it. Can't figure out where I stashed the '52 Pontiac horn button right now? Someplace safe I'm sure! This old Pontiac wheel is very large, and should make manual steering a breeze with the extra diameter to help with turning! Plus I think it looks cool, and it was inside the car when I bought it, so free!




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-11-19 04:08 PM - Post#2777686    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got the column drop built, and installed. Just 2"x 2" box tubing that will get covered later to hide all the ugly bolts and plugs on the steering column.



Also got the bolt on covers for the trans tunnel bent up and installed. Just the slightest curve to get clearance to the 700R4 trans.



And the master cylinder and Impreza brake pedal assembly done. The plate turned out to be stainless steel! Was a real booger to hole saw the center hole for the operating rod. The 6 other holes I drilled and tapped to make it stay on the firewall if I pull the pedal assembly, or the master any time.
Still need to figure out where to run the top braces for the bake pedal to? It's a long way to the dash, so I might have to make up a support under the dash to attach the top of the pedal assembly to. It's very solid, so wont need a huge amount of support. Might come off the firewall with an angle support up higher.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-12-19 05:00 PM - Post#2777745    
    In response to 1971BB427

Decided to play with my trunk latch and the struts today I used body panel adhesive on the nutserts and installed them into the glass trunk lid to make that end of the strut mount more secure. Then moved on to the latch I removed from a canopy at the wrecking yard. I made up three plates, two for the catches, and one for the handle operator. Welded the catches to the plate with a tack and checked operation. It needed another 1/4" out so I cut it loose and tacked it further towards the edge. Mounted up both catches, and then pop riveted the operator to the center plate. Shortened the operating rods and redrilled the holes. Still need to drill for a couple clips to keep the rods on now that I know it works.





Started figuring out what I need to do to build my floor shifter. I'm going to use a spare Hurst shifter arm and then build up a mounting plate to pivot on, and a rod to go to the tranny to attach for shifting. I want it to have the look of a manual trans, as I'm not fond of the newer style shifters available.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-13-19 02:24 PM - Post#2777799    
    In response to 1971BB427

Weather has been perfect for working on cars here, whether inside or outside. Running low to mid 60's for highs, so it's never too hot or too cold!
I got my other bucket seat modified and installed on the passenger side. The passenger seat has two pivot points, so it lays back, but 2nd pivot allows the seatback to go fully down and lay flat on the cushion for more room to the backseat area. Will make tossing things in the back a lot easier!



Then I got my shifter bracket built, and mounted to a slot I cut in the floor. A regular manual shifter boot will go over this later to hide the base plate.



The pivot point is under the floor, and I'll weld an extension on the Hurst shifter once I have the trans arm and can figure out how long to make the extension. I'll put a rod with a 3/8" heim on each end to adjust the position of the shifter. Still figuring out if I'll install a reverse lockout, or how to build it into this shifter.






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-15-19 01:50 PM - Post#2777954    
    In response to 1971BB427

Ran some errands this morning, but when I got home my double D shaft was waiting on the porch, so I went to the shop to install it. Along with the shaft was also my water pump pulley! I had a brand new NAPA short water pump, so I ordered upper and lower pulleys for that pump. Did a test fit to ensure the pulleys matched up, and they look perfect. Need to grab some more sealant and install the water pump permanently.



I got a 36" DD shaft, and it was just enough to do the job! It went up inside the column about 4" and with two steering joints it was just what I needed. I had a 24" stick here, but knew it wouldn't reach. I thought I might use it also, but the 36" was all it took. I made an angle iron support and attached it to the motor mount to give this long shaft extra support. It's extremely solid now! Also installed the bolts in the floor plate around the column to get that secured solid too.









So the steering is 100% complete now, and I can move on to other things.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-15-19 01:51 PM - Post#2777955    
    In response to 1971BB427

About a decade ago I was perusing Craigslist and saw this set of Comp Engineering ladder bars, plus a pair of coilover shocks, and a crossmember, all for $150. I didn't need them, but the price was too good to not go look. I offered $125 and got it all.



I decided since thye were already "in stock" here, I'd make use of them on this project. But I wanted longer ladder bars, plus the Comp design has a flaw. Since the tubes aren't parallel they get wider apart as you adjust the joint at the end. So I decided to lengthen them, and also correct the angles to make them easier to adjust.
I cut the last 2" off each end to use as a threaded weld bung. Then I checked my 1.25" DOM tubing and found it was a snug fit over the tubes! I cut 4 pieces the length I wanted, and drove them over the ladder bar tubes. I heated one tube with my torch and bent it slightly to adjust the angle. Then I bolted them to the axle brackets to keep their position, and welded the extensions to the ladder bars.



They measure about 42" long now, from the original 34". Not a big change, but as much as I wanted. I might add one more cross tube between the added tubes just to ensure they're ridgid, but I think they're good even if I don't.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-16-19 02:03 PM - Post#2778044    
    In response to 1971BB427

My project today was to get the gauge panel built. Nowhere near needing it, but I figured it would be a good change of venue today. I had a 1/4 sheet of 1/8" aluminum, so I marked it out to fit the 5 gauges inside the 4" x 12" dash opening. It was a tight squeeze, but made it in the area I had. I found studs on the backside of the dash, so drilled a pair of holes at each end of the panel, and opened up between them so I have a little adjustment to ensure it centers in the opening.



I got a set of white face gauges from Speedway. They had a similar panel, but wanted $130, and I figured I could make one and save a lot. Unfortunately my holesaws are not exactly gauge sizes! I only had to take about 1/16" off each side of the 2" gauge openings. But the speedo needed a 3 3/8" opening, and my kit has a 3" and a 3.5", so had to go 3" and spend an hour with a hand file opening it up to 3 3/8"! I marked the edge of the opening with a black felt marker so I could tell how much and where I was taking metal off. Helped keep it round, and avoid taking too much off.
I'm waiting for turn signal and high beam indicators, and they'll be added to the panel when they're here to double check hole size. Should be a way easier hole to make too!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-17-19 01:38 PM - Post#2778128    
    In response to 1971BB427



I got a couple dozen holes welded up in my firewall this morning. I have no idea what the vast majority of these holes were even for? Can't begin to imagine on some of them? Of course they were the usual PITA to weld and not blow out too. The bigger holes got filler plates welded in, and 1/4" or smaller just got welded.



Then a coat of All Metal over them to finish them off.



After that I sanded down the dashboard and gave it a shot of 2x primer. Then another sanding and a 2nd coat. Some spots have some rust pits, (like the glovebox door) but most of it is pretty nice shape.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-18-19 03:19 PM - Post#2778194    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got my 3/8" heim joints, so made up the shifter arm. The lever I got for the trans is an aluminum piece and when I bolted the heim to it the head of the bolt hit the trans in reverse or park. Stupid design with no offset. It's 5/16" thick, and not easily bent, so I countersunk the backside and used a flathead allen bolt to attach the heim and it cleared fine.
Lots of adjustment as each heim end has an inch. So I installed it, and adjusted travel to make 1st-4th easiest to reach, and just a little bit farther to get to park and reverse.

1st


Park


The stupid shaft on the trans drove me nuts trying to find a nut. Then I remembered it's new enough to be metric!! It's a 10x1.5mm, so went and bought one.
On the way home my trusty '69 Suburban was fine for 3 or 4 stops, and then in the parking lot of the parts store it wouldn't start! I could hear it trying to pull in, but wouldn't crank. The parts store checked the battery and said it was great. I reached down between the headers and tried to twist the hot cable and it moved! I cranked it CW to see if it could be tightened and it started up after that. So had to climb under it when I got home and give it a good wrenching to ensure it was really tight. Not sure how this stuff loosens with a lock washer on it?


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-19-19 03:59 PM - Post#2778255    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got my front brakes fully assembled today, right down to the hoses. No lines yet. Then I pulled the rear tires and put on my 1.5" billet spacers. The guy who custom makes these tells me they're the only spacer allowed by NHRA. Very nice quality! So the tires are sitting out just where I wanted them now.
But of course I had to cut clearance on my fenders to allow them to hang out a bit. Just close for now as I'll do one more layout and cut the openings exactly where I want them. Whoever repaired these fenders used 3/8" rod, and it wasn't even down in the recess in most places. I cut the tack welds and the rod came right out.



So now I'm looking as to possibly doing a bit more trimming. If you look at the image above you'll notice I marked the front edge of the fender where it meets the body. The fender hangs down past the body because of the original running boards. I'll never use running boards on a car myself, and I think this extra looks odd.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Moderator and "17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6221
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
10-19-19 10:55 PM - Post#2778281    
    In response to 1971BB427

You are doing a heck of a job getting your car together like you want it.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
rcr3 
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3183
rcr3
Age: 68
Loc: MANHEIM PA. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
10-20-19 04:45 AM - Post#2778288    
    In response to Keith_Knox

X2

'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab






 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 207

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-20-19 10:26 AM - Post#2778316    
    In response to Keith_Knox

Thanks! This early picture from when I first bought the '39 shows better how long the front of the rear fender really is!




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 


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