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 Page 8 of 8 « First<5678
Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6443
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
06-26-20 07:34 PM - Post#2797271    
    In response to 1971BB427

Looks good.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 


1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
06-26-20 08:07 PM - Post#2797273    
    In response to Keith_Knox

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Looks good.



Thanks Keith!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
06-29-20 02:54 PM - Post#2797462    
    In response to 1971BB427

Figured out my gas gauge issue the other day, and contacted the seller to exchange the gauge. I ordered a 0-90 ohm, and they sent me a 90-0 ohm, thus causing the reverse reading. Got the new gauge today, and got it installed.
I also ordered some thin black foam rubber mat in a 4'x 5' size to put down in the trunk over the floor. I plan to get more black carpet from Home Depot, but want this under the carpet to deaden the noise, but not be slick like the foil back sound deadener is. I wont be gluing the carpet in the trunk, so this will keep it from slipping around also. I'll glue the carpet on the box I built to cover wiring, and vent lines, but leave it removable on the trunk floor.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-02-20 05:59 PM - Post#2797753    
    In response to 1971BB427

My wife decided she wanted to help out on the build, so she sewed up covers for the ratty sun visors. She still needs to do the final sewing to close off the end, but they fit well, and look good. The picture makes them look lighter from the flash, but they're very black in reality.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
rcr3 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3305
rcr3
Age: 68
Loc: MANHEIM PA. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
07-03-20 05:13 AM - Post#2797773    
    In response to 1971BB427

Nice job!

'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab






 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-03-20 07:39 AM - Post#2797783    
    In response to rcr3

Thanks! Still have to apply the tin layer of dense foam to the visors, and then slip the covering back on so she can do the final stitch to close them off.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-03-20 04:48 PM - Post#2797819    
    In response to 1971BB427

Wife finished up my sun visors, and I installed them this morning. They look great, and work nicely!
Then I decided to tackle a job I've been putting off for awhile. The '39 rides pretty stiff, and I planned to remove some leafs up front. Always a guessing game as to how many, and how it will affect the stance. So I decided to go big, and took 3 of the 5 leafs out, but the shortest 3 leafs. That is a total of 3/4" off the stance, and with less spring rate I figured I'd lose another 3/4"-1" on top of that.
So I set about to remove the 3 leafs, and build a spacer block to adjust for the loss. I had plenty of extra length on the U bolts, so I used heavy wall 2"x 2" box tubing, and cut it 5" long. I drilled a hole at center, and opened one side up to 3/8" and the other side up to 9/16" I bolted a stainless steel 3/8" allen bolt in the 3/8" hole to be the alignment pin. The other fits over the 3/8" pin on my springs. Before installing the spacers I cut 2"x 2" plates to weld over the ends of the box tubing to make it stronger, and make it look like a solid block.
Bolted it all together, and lowered the car down on the ground. My before and after measurements were 1/2' difference, and that's 1/2" higher. So it appears my seat of the pants guess on the spacer was as close as I could guesstimate. Love when I get lucky!
Took it for a ride, and even with only two long leafs, the ride is still firm, but not nearly as hard as it was before. Glad to get this mod done, and it actually was a lot easier, and quicker than I thought it would be!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-06-20 03:33 PM - Post#2798062    
    In response to 1971BB427

Took a look into installing the electric door locks on the '39 today, and just stuffed them back in the bag for now. Where they attach to the locking mechanism is nearly impossible to access, and if I pull it all out to add the clamp from the kit, I'm unsure how to determine where to clamp it to ensure I can still have the solenoid sitting where it needs to go. So I shelved it for now.

I decided I had enough miles to spend some time going over all the front suspension bolts. Most are grade 8 with locking nuts, so not much that can work loose, but I also had some grade 5 bolts that came with new parts, and wanted to change those out to grade 8.
The Speedway disc brake kit had two 7/16NF locking nuts missing, and I forgot I never replaced those. When I saw they were still regular nuts I got grade 8 locknuts, and figured I'd replace them today. They hold the tierod brackets to the spindles, so pretty important!
When I went to remove the nuts today they had backed off a good 1/8" from tight!! I was shocked to see this, and checked the other bolt that had a locking nut, and they were still tight. But I've had a little bit of "wandering" in my steering, and I bet this was the case. I replaced the nuts with the grade 8 locknuts, and put blue Loctite on all 4 nuts also, just for extra security!
I also replaced all the 1/2NF U bolt nuts for the springs with grade 8 nuts, and Loctited them too. Never seen U bolts with grade 5 nuts before, and didn't like the looks of them for such a critical fastener.
So with everything checked, tightened, Loctied, and changed; I took it for a short spin. The steering is noticeably crisper, and more precise, with no wandering going down the freeway. So I'm glad I took time to check everything after a few hundred miles!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6443
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
07-06-20 07:21 PM - Post#2798082    
    In response to 1971BB427

Good idea, going over every thing after a new rebuild.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-06-20 09:33 PM - Post#2798094    
    In response to Keith_Knox

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Good idea, going over every thing after a new rebuild.



I've always done it, and rarely find anything. But one incident like this makes me sure it should always be done on critical parts like suspension/steering.



1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-11-20 04:42 PM - Post#2798463    
    In response to 1971BB427

Been having issues with my fuel cell QD filler cap. Sometimes I wrestle with it for several minutes at the pump before I get it off. I finally got irritated enough to order a different filler with a 45 degree neck, and pipe thread billet aluminum cap. It arrived this morning, so figured I'd see what it took to replace the old cap. 12 bolts on the outside, with a ring on the inside that hols the 12 nuts. Fun!
Easy to remove, and once I got to the last bolt I reached inside with my fingers to hold the ring as I removed the last bolt. It's a split ring, so I pulled it out to match it to the new filler, and all was good. Then I thought, "How do I hold the ring below, with a 1.25" filler neck on top?"
No way to reach down the neck to hold it! I started one bolt with the new neck turned to one side, but when I tried to swivel it into place the ring moved too! Fought it for awhile, an then decided to bend up two pieces of iron tie wire to make hooks on each end that I'd use to hold the ring up while assembling the filler. I slid the gasket over the wires, and then the plate one wire at a time. Pulled the ring up, and held it with the wires in one hand as I started bolts with the other. A juggling act, and I kept thinking if I dropped it I'd be fishing it out of the fuel cell with my bare hands! Fortunately after a fair amount of struggling, and some cussing, I was able to get some screws started. Then I pulled hard on the iron wire to straighten it out and pull if free of the two holes.
While the filler was out I bent the float arm up too, so it wont have over half a tank when it reads empty! Had to guess what it needed, so hope it leaves me a few gallons when it hits empty, instead of 7 gallons at empty!
And a bonus of changing the filler, (besides easily filling gas!) is I can fill gas right up to the top of the tank now. The filler is about 4" tall, so wont shut the pump off before the tank is full.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-13-20 01:51 PM - Post#2798608    
    In response to 1971BB427

I was invited to meet with a car club this morning, by a friend who knows me and the previous owner of my '39 Chev coupe. He told Ed he had a "surprise" for him, and to be sure he made it to breakfast today. Drove out to meet the guys, and Ed showed up late, so didn't get to see his reaction outside, but did see it inside. He was grinning when he saw me, and after saying hello he told me he was tickled to see his old '39 on the road, and done up in gasser style. He added that he was glad somebody got it who followed through with it, as he'd never have gotten it done himself. Another guy asked if he wanted his '39 back, but Ed said it was in good hands, and he couldn't afford it now.
Ed is an old Bonneville racer who runs a '51 Chevy with a 301 straight six, and a lot of other work done to it. It runs 127 mph on the salt, and he's hoping to get it to 130 mph club the next trip down. He spun it out last year at over 100 mph when the clutch began to slip, and thinks it could be close to going 130. But he said the salt is literally eating the car away! In just 6 years of running it there, the fenders, brackets, frame, and most metal parts are falling apart. Even with a pressure washing each time he gets home, it still eats everything up!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-15-20 02:45 PM - Post#2798808    
    In response to 1971BB427

Took quite a long time, but finally got my replacement windshield half for my '39 Chev coupe. I guess the virus has caused a huge number of people to work on their cars, so the glass guys are swamped.
I asked for the glass to be undersized, since the last one was so tight it barely went in, which caused a stress crack later. Unfortunately all they did was make the width 1/8" shorter, but didn't adjust top to bottom width. So once I overlaid the new glass on the old, I decided I needed to modify something, or figure out how to shrink the glass.
Since sanding or grinding the glass without some sort of water cooled sander would likely have fatal results, I decided to modify the weatherstrip seal. I carefully pulled the lip back a couple inches at a time, and using my belt sander with a new 80 grit belt, I worked my way around the perimeter until I;d "shaved" the outside down a bit over 1/16" all over to reduce the total 1/8".
After that I did the same soapy water spray on the weatherstrip, and with my pull line I pushed and worked the lip over the metal. Unlike the last time, the glass went in tightly, but I didn't need to pull it in the last bit with the garnish molding.
I used my glass suction cups attached to the two halves to bump the halves left and right to ensure I got a decent gap between the glass, and away from the center strip retaining screws.

It took a couple hours, but a lot of that was setup, and cleanup afterwards. Way better than the 4.5 hrs. it took the last go around!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-16-20 08:37 AM - Post#2798884    
    In response to 1971BB427

Called the glass supplier to give him an update on the new glass. He'd asked me to let him know, and tell him the results; good or bad. Well it went badly right away!
I started by telling him I got the glass in, and all was well. Just didn't want to start out negative. Then I told him the glass he said would be "slightly smaller" wasn't smaller in height. He told me he never said it would be smaller, and proceeded to tell me he had no control over the size?
I told him he had specifically told me he put a note on the order to "make the glass slightly smaller length and width", but he said that was incorrect, and he had simply asked them to "compare their glass, and see if any were smaller".
So I tried to explain I was simply offering up my results, since he'd asked for feedback, but he exploded and went into a 5 minute rant that left me speechless, and confused. At a couple points into his rant I tried to slow him down and explain this, but he cut me off and refused to listen.
I finally just hung up the phone, and sat there bewildered at what had happened. Then my home phone rings and it's him calling that number to continue his tirade. After a couple more minutes he suddenly stops, and changes gears; telling me if I ever have any questions, concerns, or anything to do with auto glass, give him a call.
I was again speechless, and just hung up without replying. It was the most bizarre interaction with a parts supplier/owner I've ever had?
I did a search of reviews for his business, and found 7 reviews. One was good, and the others were all very similar to my experience. I should have done this before ordering glass from him, but at least I didn't feel alone once I saw others had similar experiences. Glad it's over, and I wont ever need to deal with him again.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6443
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
07-16-20 06:17 PM - Post#2798915    
    In response to 1971BB427

Sounds like he is never wrong.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-17-20 08:12 AM - Post#2798943    
    In response to Keith_Knox

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Sounds like he is never wrong.



I think you're right Keith.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-17-20 03:10 PM - Post#2798964    
    In response to 1971BB427

Worked on more casualties of the oil gauge line mess this morning. When I was under the car cleaning I noticed the parts I'd painted with Duplicolor Chrome paint were sticky to the touch! And if I held my hand to those parts it came off on my hands!
I thought I'd give it a chance to dry, or harden again, but it never did. I had painted my drag link, tierod, and shocks using this paint, so they had to come off to strip it. I tried various solvents, but all they did was make a mess and not totally remove it. So I finally just used the wire wheel on my grinder and it stripped the paint off quickly.
After stripping the parts I wiped them down and dried them. Then checked to be sure they weren't sticky. Shot them with primer sealer, and then a coat of VHT mag wheel paint. I had that on the axle, and it didn't react to the oil at all, so I knew it was good.
Got the parts shot, and finished wiping down under the car. Reinstalled the freshly painted parts, and Loctited everything too. Looks less bright, but I like the metallic graphite color.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-28-20 05:26 PM - Post#2799795    
    In response to 1971BB427

Went to a cruise up north Friday night. On the way home got stuck in traffic and the temperature went up well above the usual 180 degrees. At around 200 degrees I pulled over to check, and the electric fan wasn't running. Unplugged the sensor and grounded the wire and the fan relay pulled in and worked. So I grabbed my tool bag and temped the wire to a ground to make it run full time. Temp came down and it was fine then.
I ordered a new sensor that doesn't hook into the cooling system, but has a probe that mounts on the backside of the radiator. It's also adjustable, so I can select when it closes the contacts. Installed it today, and started the engine up. Then once it got to 170 degrees I turned the stat until the fan came on, and left it there.
Also pulled the valve covers and readjusted the lash. Had a couple valves too tight, and had a full turn more than they needed. Did the 500 mile oil change, and filter, and cut the filter open to inspect things. All looks good, so just drive a lot, and enjoy it until winter when I'll restart bodywork.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-29-20 01:20 PM - Post#2799851    
    In response to 1971BB427

Nothing really new, but a friend sent me an old picture he took seven years ago at the Billetproof Drags in Toutle, Wa. My first trip to that race, and the first run I made they staged me up against the "Evil Twin" rail. A twin SBC powered rail, and to say I was intimidated would be an understatement. I kept telling myself to just not embarrass myself! Unfortunately that didn't help, as I fell asleep at the starting line trying not to red light. But The Evil Twin was already taking off in a cloud of tire smoke when I finally launched, and I caught his quickly. Then about the time I thought I had a good lead, and was going to win, he came barreling past me and beat me by a couple car lengths! It was still fun!



Think I better get the old Austin out soon, as I haven't driven it since the '39 got road worthy.
Sounds like the Billetproof drags may be cancelled next month! I had planned to run the '39 there this year, but now it's likely I wont be running anything there!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6443
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
07-29-20 07:46 PM - Post#2799891    
    In response to 1971BB427

Good you could hotwire it.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
07-30-20 09:11 AM - Post#2799918    
    In response to Keith_Knox

I like to run my controls on fans using the ground wire as the closing circuit across the contacts just for this reason. It's usually much easier to troubleshoot or do an emergency repair when switching the ground wires.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-02-20 01:16 PM - Post#2800150    
    In response to 1971BB427

Going to try my hand at something new. Considering the prices of upholstery work these days I decided to look around at used commercial sewing machines. I found a guy on Craigslist who overhauls them and he told me he didn't have one done yet, but would by this weekend. He called me yesterday and I went over this morning and looked at what he had.
It's an older 1950's Japanese copy of the Singer Commercial machine, and it beautiful condition. I took along my naugahyde and diamond pattern remnants and had him stitch them together to ensure the machine would handle them. He laughed when I showed them to him, but ran them right through the machine without any issue. Then he grabbed two pieces of heavy leather belt, and laid them on top of each other and stitched those together with no problem either.
I was impressed, and at a fraction of the cost of upholstering my seats, I figure I'll give it a try. He gave me extra bobbins, and assortment of needles. He also asked me if I had a stand, and when I said I'd make a table, he told me to take the stand it was sitting on too! It's got a side table, 4 drawers, and a foot and knee switch too!

So now I just have to strip the upholstery off my seats to make patterns, and sew up the diamond pattern, with some smooth black naugahyde for the bolsters. And then get it all back on without making a bunch of wrinkles!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 386

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-03-20 02:14 PM - Post#2800222    
    In response to 1971BB427

After a couple hours of figuring out all the screws, clips etc. I got the plastic covers off, and then pulled a few dozen hog rings to get the covers off too!





Hope I remember where all these pieces went, and how they reattach!

The foam is great since the seats are fairly new, so nothing needed there.





Once I get the passenger side seat cover inserts removed and get a pattern off the inserts, I'll make two of everything so I can just take the driver's side apart, and use the second set to do that seat. The factory really sewed the material close to edge, so I don't have much room to stitch to! Hoping I can go slow while stitching and not drift off the tiny 1/4" seam they left!
Lots of wire rods everywhere to hog ring them down to the foam to keep them tight, and contoured well. Those will be fun to get back together, and keep smoothed out!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
41wildthing 
Newbie
Posts: 44
41wildthing
Loc: NJ
Reg: 12-02-15
08-03-20 05:29 PM - Post#2800239    
    In response to 1971BB427

I hope you got a walking foot and a servo motor powered machine. As well as a reverse lever so the machine can sew backwards. That is how you lock the stich into the fabric. You probably are aware of that since your wife knows how to sew. Good luck......Phil



Edited by 41wildthing on 08-03-20 05:46 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


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