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Username Post: My '39 Master Deluxe Coupe        (Topic#357502)
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-03-19 01:19 PM - Post#2772319    

Picked up this '39 Coupe at our big April swap meet. It was dirt cheap because of all the rust in the floors, rockers, lower doors, and body. But I figured it was time to learn how to do this before I'm too old! I had a '40 Chevy coupe in high school in 1968, and always regretted selling it, which also played big in buying the '39.
There was a great number of extra parts inside the car, so I figured I'd sell the extras to also help offset the purchase, and end up almost at zero cost if it went well! So I did an inventory prior to moving it into my tiny one car shop.





This was the '40 Coupe I had in high school. My friend has owned it ever since, and totally restored and street rodded it.



I got some friends to assist in steering it, and used my quad to pull it into the shop. Then we pushed it the final bit by hand.
After that I began really looking over the rust repairs and got that sinking feeling! The car was perfect from 3" up, and the frame was also perfect. But a lot of rust everywhere low! I began ordering parts for the floors, inner and outer doors, 1/4 panels, etc. I sold all the spare parts, or traded them for old parts I was missing like a couple garnish moldings, and a glove box door. Also got store credit from a local place for some fiberglass spares, and used that to buy more sheet metal parts.
I began the daunting task of repairing all the rusted metal. A lot of this I've never done, so I got some advice on how to do it from people I know with lots of experience! I began by removing the rusted rockers, and replacing those. The lower body shook whenever I closed the doors from no rockers!







Fortunately the floor braces behind the rockers were great, which made installing new rockers easier! I bent up a few pieces myself to save money, and made up these little U shaped edges to go over the rocker's sharp edge.







1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 08-03-19 01:50 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-03-19 01:44 PM - Post#2772323    
    In response to 1971BB427

I went for the 1/4 panels next, as they were less scary than lower doors! I again saved some money by using generic lower door patch panels and simply cutting them to length and patching them in as 1/4 panel drops.





They were a bit flat, but some massaging got the proper curve to fit the body lines.



The floor kit came for the front and rear. Fronts were great, but rear was almost worthless! The box said, "37-38, 39 with some re-shaping". Well by the time I removed enough metal to fit my '39, I could have just made my own from a sheet of 18 ga. steel. The fronts made that job super easy though!



The door drops came, so decided to tackle those. They were very challenging, and for an amateur like me will require some filler! I used All Metal to ensure a good bond, and solid patch.







Suprisingly the front floors weren't as bad as I thought! Both toe boards were good, but the driver's had holes for brake, clutch, steering column, and other stuff, so I replaced it just to start clean!



Passenger side just got the floor.



Both sides will need a small edge piece fitted as the front and rear floors don't cover that much.

I found more good braces under the rear, so plug welded to them, and then tacked the edges where they met solid floor. I overlapped the tiny tunnel since it will get cut out and replaced with a new driveline tunnel I built.



With the floors just tacked at the edge, I overlaid my new driveline tunnel, and marked the old tunnel/floor to cut it back out. Then welded in the new tunnel for the back seat area.



I'll wait to do the front after the engine and trans are in, and I know what it needs for clearance for the 700R4 tranny, and 350 roller motor.

Big pile of rusty metal removed during the process!



Maybe getting a bit ahead of myself. But I got a great deal on these new old style Torq Thrust TTO's, so I got tires and wheels mounted up for the coupe project!



I'll be pulling out the old knee action A arms, and installing a '59 Chevy pickup I beam axle in front. Doing a disc brake conversion on the axle also. The rear will be an 8.8" Ford limited slip posi with a 3.73 gear ratio. Steering will be a Vega box and a late 70's Blazer tilt column.

I picked up three grille halves. All had issues, but fixable. I cut bars from the extra half and tig welded them into the lower missing bars of the two salvageable grilles. They'll get painted, and then original trim used down the middle, and around the edges.












So this is where I am after a couple months of dinking around here and there. I hope to possibly be driving the '39 next summer, and maybe painting next winter. But that's just a dream right now!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 08-03-19 01:55 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Keith_Knox 
Moderator and "17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6192
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
08-03-19 08:53 PM - Post#2772352    
    In response to 1971BB427

Good job.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
Tony 
Founder & Grand PoohBah
Posts: 18182
Tony
Age: 62
Loc: Orange County CA.
Reg: 03-15-99
08-04-19 08:09 AM - Post#2772375    
    In response to 1971BB427

Thanks so much for posting. Please keep the updates coming when you can.

Happy with the help and support you got here?
Click >>here<< to become a Supporting Member or Donate







 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-04-19 06:31 PM - Post#2772418    
    In response to Tony

Thanks guys! I'll try to post as I go. I'm retired, but busy building a '35 Plymouth coupe for a friend at his house, so I only get a couple days a week to work on mine. Of course other days get sidetracked doing work around the house.

Appreciate the feedback.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
jrt301 
Poster
Posts: 8

Reg: 08-01-19
08-05-19 03:37 AM - Post#2772435    
    In response to 1971BB427

Can't wait to see the next update.



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-05-19 04:53 PM - Post#2772476    
    In response to jrt301

Spent some time looking over the tail panel and tool drop below the trunk lid today. It's a bigger mess than I thought, and I decided it might be worthwhile to buy a replacement instead. I checked a couple places and found them for around $325 and up. Then by chance I checked the local CL ads and found a new old stock EMS panel for $200 brand new!
Can't believe the luck, and it will save me a lot of time, plus look better than whatever I scabbed together.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-07-19 01:14 PM - Post#2772636    
    In response to 1971BB427

Not sure what I was thinking, (or hoping) when I thought this tail panel might be salvageable? But it's obvious I was high on something when I thought it could be!







Got it cut out rough, so still more metal to remove once I get the fenders off and fit the new panel to it. Some rust in the trunk drop, but it should be pretty easy to replace once the new tail panel is in and I know how much is missing between the two panels.





Have to decide if I cut the notches for a bumper bracket, or leave the tail smooth. Since it's a hotrod, I may not run a rear bumper. I can do those later if I do.

The new panel goes up to those black felt marker lines, and I cut about 3" below to give me room for final trimming and welding. I'll have to brace the lip on the trunk lid opening while I'm fitting the new tail panel. It's allowing the trunk lid to sag now, and it sits lower than the adjacent fenders and surrounding edge. So I'll tack in some braces to hold it, and then fit the new tail panel.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-09-19 01:18 PM - Post#2772823    
    In response to 1971BB427

I got the metal cut back today, and the new tail pan installed. It wasn't as far off as I thought once I got everything opened up, and got it clamped in place. I lowered the trunk lid and it fit fine into the tail pan. So I tacked it in and checked the fit again, and all was good. Got it welded in and tried the trunk lid once more, and it's good to go!
I spot welded the edge along the weatherstrip rail, and did a continuous weld along the junction with the trunk drops on each side.






Smoothed them out with a flapper disc, and looks like I might need a couple more tacks where it appears I missed the edge. Then they're ready for a dab of filler.





Still need to build the bottom of the tool drop, and tack it in, but it wont take much. I actually think I can see the end of rust repair soon! Maybe even in a couple more days!

The machine shop called and said my heads will be ready to pick up Sat. afternoon, or Monday!!!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 08-09-19 01:19 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-10-19 03:12 PM - Post#2772898    
    In response to 1971BB427

Got out again today and installed a new "floor" in my trunk tool drop. I made it different than the original, so it's shallower. The metal was a bit rotted, so I figured why waste time and metal building it all back the same way, when I could simply cut the sides shorter to get to solid metal, and weld in a new bottom.
I cut a piece of cardboard to fit in the bottom, and then traced it on my 18 ga. sheet metal. Cut it out and dropped it in the bottom, and it fit first time! Tacked it in place, and ground it smooth from the bottom side where I could get to it. Began knocking the tops off my spot welds for the floors with the old flapper discs. I'll leave them as is until I get the engine set, and know what they need to complete them. Then I'll seam seal it all inside and out when it's done.
Spread a little All Metal filler on the new tail pan, and the bottom of the tool drop. Too pooped for pictures, so I'll get out tomorrow to continue work, and take some then.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-11-19 01:37 PM - Post#2772971    
    In response to 1971BB427

More again today, but took the camera with me!
Here's the freshly sanded, but unfinished tail panel. Still needs a light coat of filler to be really done.





And the new tool drop that came out better than I hoped! Might hold a couple wrenches.



And the freshly ground floors.



I cut off the brackets for the Z bar, and the brake master. Then after that I decided I'd begin unbolting the front suspension assembly. Chevy really wanted that front suspension to stay put in the car! They used 26 bolts to hold it to the frame rails! I removed 22 of them, but need to weld in a new tubular crossmember in front before I take any more out. Nothing else keeps the rails aligned, so it needs a tube across to keep the rails parallel.



I realized when looking at the frame rails, and the way Chevy bolted in the front suspension, that I should use the same method! I can make up my spring hangers for the front and rear of the straight axle, and then drill the mounting plates to make them bolt onto the frame rails! This way I wont need to do any overhead welding, and I can come up with some really nice mounts that I will just drill the frame edges and bolt in place! Sure will save me a lot of painful overhead welding! And I can do the same for the transmission crossmember too!

One thing really amazed me! Considering all the body rust, this frame looks like new!! It appears that it might even be from another car since it's so perfect! I removed all those bolts, and not a single broken or rusted bolt! I also broke loose all the brake lines, and they look fantastic! And even the rubber in the brake hoses, and swaybar were in great shape!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 08-11-19 01:40 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-12-19 01:52 PM - Post#2773052    
    In response to 1971BB427

Errand day today. Went to the steel yard and bought a 20' stick of 2"x2" box tubing for crossmembers, motor mounts, transmission mount, and whatever else I need it for.
Then my neighbor called from out at the Pick N Pull and told me they got a truck in with a canopy on it. I've been looking for hardware for my trunk lid to make a latch, and old canopies have spring loaded latches on them. So I ran over and pulled the latch and handle off the canopy.
While I was there I also removed the sealed beam headlamp buckets as I need them to convert mine to sealed beams. I grabbed the trim rings, and even the connectors for the lamps just in case I need it all.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-14-19 11:14 AM - Post#2773220    
    In response to 1971BB427

Just picked them up from the machine shop! Boy I sure love new parts!



These 487x heads will be going on my 355 SBC roller motor. Using a Howards cam with 525/530 lift, 280/288 duration, 109 LSA. The 355 is 9.25:1 compression with these 76cc heads so it wont have any issues running on pump gas.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-17-19 06:22 PM - Post#2773429    
    In response to 1971BB427

Weather is cloudy and cool, so stayed home from any car shows and worked on the '39. I decided it might be time to check out my engine, and see if it was as advertised by the seller. I pulled a couple rod caps to inspect the bearings, and plastigauge them. They were as advertised, and brand new bearings. No issues with crank, and plastigauge showed it's all done correctly. Did the same with a couple mains also. Didn't see any reason to do all of them, unless I found something suspicious.
Put it all back together, and torqued them down to spec. Once done, I put it on my engine stand so I can pull the balancer and timing cover to install the Howards cam, and gear drive. I hope my old chrome cover from my 327 fits the 350, but if not I'll just paint the cover.
Need to order a new oil pump as I have no idea what this oil pump is, or how old? It doesn't appear to be new, and may be fine, but I wont chance it. Have to check the pickup to see if it will be correct for my finned aluminum oil pan too. Not sure if the factory windage tray on the mains will clear my pan either. If not, I'll trim it until it clears as I like having it there.

I also stripped all the brakes and tie rod off the straight axle. Going to lay out the holes I want to drill, and get them done. Then I'll clean it up and put new paint on it. Also want to go to Oregon Spring and have new U bolts made. Don't want to start out with the old rusty used ones. Hopefully I"ll get the holes and the clean up done tomorrow so I can begin mocking up the axle.
I realized today I somehow measured way off on spring width, vs. frame width? Not sure how I did it, but I did. The frame is quite a bit narrower than the spring perches on the donor axle. So I will need to make up spring mounts that situate the springs outside the frame rails after all. Not a big deal, but more work to do to get the mounts built. I wont be bolting them to the frame rails after all. With the outside mounting points it wont save me anything, so I'll build the mounts and weld them on the frame rails.



1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
Rustchips 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1177
Rustchips
Age: 82
Loc: DFW Texas
Reg: 02-24-05
08-18-19 09:54 AM - Post#2773482    
    In response to 1971BB427

Nice work.
Cleon

1928 Chevy Coupe
1942 Chevy Special Deluxe Coupe
1955 Chevy Bel Air HTP
1970 El Camino
1990 F##d Mustang Convertible

Life is like a roll of toilet paper the nearer the end the faster it goes.


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-18-19 08:54 PM - Post#2773525    
    In response to Rustchips

Thanks! Had a little setback today!

The engine is far from ready. Needs the cam and gear drive installed. Just test fitting the aluminum pan. Going to leave it there, and upside down until I get the heads and cam done.



I laid out the holes and drilled the axle today. Then I opened up the disc brake kit from Speedway to install it. That's when I realized I somehow entered the wrong numbers and got a kit for a '49-'54 Chevy car! Crap! Have to call Speedway tomorrow and arrange to exchange this kit for the correct Chevy truck disc brake kit. I hate when I do stuff like this!!!!






1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-21-19 12:43 PM - Post#2773767    
    In response to 1971BB427

Speedway told me no problem returning the disc brake kit, even though it's been over 60 days, so sent it back. They're sending the correct '47-'59 Chevy truck kit once they get the seals in that they're waiting for.

Made a short work day of it today. I got a deal on some 4 ft. LED two tube shop lights to replace my fluorescents, so spent a couple hours changing those out to give me more work light. Boy do they ever make a huge improvement! And no issues with cold weather flickering, or replacing lamps in my lifetime! Supposed to be a 40 year lifespan on the LED's.

After that I disassembled the timing cover, and removed the roller lifters. Then dropped the Howards roller camshaft in, and reassembled it. Their instructions say the roller cam needs no assembly lube, but I put it on anyway. Just seems like a good idea to me. Especially if it might not be started for quite awhile.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-22-19 07:13 PM - Post#2773840    
    In response to 1971BB427

I'm building this one for my neighbor one day a week. It's a '35 Plymouth coupe, with 383 SBC engine, 4 speed, and 8.8 Ford rear axle. 4.56 gear and posi. Four wheel disc brakes. 12" Firestone pie crust slicks, and a dropped chrome tube axle. Coil over shocks all around. Front tires are just rollers, and will be replaced by skinny Cragars, and skinny tires.
We just got the body back on the chassis after doing all the frame, suspension, and drivetrain. It will be getting rear fenders, but the rest will stay open.



This coupe was hit hard in the rear, and we've replaced and pulled a lot of metal. It's still going to need 1/8" to 1/4" of filler to make the rear look perfect. Just too rough to ever get it 100% with our bodyworking skills.



The rest the week is dedicated to my build.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 08-22-19 07:18 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
08-28-19 01:07 PM - Post#2774313    
    In response to 1971BB427

Heads on, and engine painted. Can't believe my oil pump hasn't arrived? Just as well since every parts store I stopped at today told me they had no 350 SBC pan gasket sets! Can't believe they have to special order a pan gasket!!!





Will wait to do the rockers, and other pieces until after I have the motor mounts done. It will likely be in and out a couple times before it stays in.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-01-19 04:21 PM - Post#2774634    
    In response to 1971BB427

I've stared at the first door (passenger side) that I replaced the lower panel on for weeks now, and it just looked bad. I got warps in the metal, and it just didn't lay down properly. So today I had enough of it, and cut it loose, and removed the new patch panel. As soon as I cut the patch panel loose I saw the door skin relax, and go back in place!
I ended up with a new lower patch panel for the pass. side when I sold the extra parts for the car, so I dug it out and compared it to my door. Of course like most new sheet metal today, it was too long for my door by about 3/8"! So I had to choose an end to cut off, and then hammer on a new edge lip to roll over the door inner frame. I cut off the excess, and then laid the edge over my anvil and with a dolly and body hammer I peened the edge over to create a new rolled edge. Then I fit it to the door and began rolling the edges and bottom around the inner door panel. It went on pretty easy, and once it was fitted I began the welding.
I couldn't clamp the two pieces together, so I used my butt welding clamps on the edge seam to keep it all lined up. Did the back and forth tack welds, and it stayed in place nicely. The big difference was this time I kept a bucket of cool water on hand, and a rag to cool the metal as I tacked. Once I had tacks every couple inches, it was holding well and didn't need cooling as often.
I spent about 5 hours on the door, but some of that was removal, and some was finish grinding, and a thin coat of All Metal filler when I was done. This 2nd time was much better, and I got no warping at all! So although I thought I was done with metal repair before; not I really am done! This has been a real learning experience, and wasn't an expensive redo, just time consuming. But now I know it's correct, and doesn't look ugly as it did before redoing it.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-02-19 01:32 PM - Post#2774676    
    In response to 1971BB427

Not a bunch done today. Had to catch up on yard work, but then I figured I'd spend a few hours on the '39.
I decided to fill all the empty holes that were supposed to have body bolts! Out of 12 holes, only 3 had bolts in them. Another reason I think this body was off the frame, or swapped frames. I got 8 of the other 9 holes filled, but one has a broken bolt in it. Not too worried about replacing it since it's right by the driver's side floor and the other side the cowl has two bolts side by side. I doubt it's going anywhere.
The bolts are 3/8"x6" long, and go clear through the floor and frame in a sleeve, except the front two on each side of the cowl.They're shorties. I have lots of 3/8" all thread rod, so cut up a bunch and used that to bolt the body down. Red Loctite on all the nuts, as I doubt I'll ever be removing them, and if I do I can put some heat on the nut to release the red Loctite.
After that I hit some high spots with the grinder, and slapped on some filler. Just rough filled, not finished. Sprayed some primer inside the doors to help protect all the bare metal that's new in there.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
Mel Foye 
*VIP* Founding Member
Posts: 4836
Mel Foye
Reg: 09-29-00
09-02-19 06:00 PM - Post#2774700    
    In response to 1971BB427

Read this from start and enjoyed each and all of your victories on this car. Easy to see your skills.
Keep us up to date. Mel



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-02-19 06:49 PM - Post#2774706    
    In response to Mel Foye

Thanks Mel! I'm learning some of this for the first time on this build! I've done minor rust repair before, but never anything as extensive as this car.
I'm closer and closer to the drivetrain and suspension, which is something I'm much more comfortable with!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-03-19 02:20 PM - Post#2774756    
    In response to 1971BB427

Pulled the fuel pump block off plate today and checked it to see if it was bored and machined for a mechanical fuel pump. It is ready for a mechanical pump! And I contacted Howards Cams since I forgot to look at the camshaft before installing it to see if it had a lobe for the fuel pump, and they said it does!
So I ordered a fuel pump, plate, and push rod to go mechanical fuel pump!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-06-19 02:53 PM - Post#2774951    
    In response to 1971BB427

My neighbor with the '35 Plymouth called to tell me he was putting some scrap metal out to be picked up, and I might want to look at it before it's gone. So I walked over and took a peek, just in case something might be worth saving for my '39.
Sitting on top of his pile were a pair of trunk lid struts with brackets. I asked what they came off, and he told me his brother's 1995 Z28 Camaro hatch. So I figured since they seemed new, they might work to hold my fiberglass trunk lid open! Grabbed them and took them home to my shop.
I test fitted them sort of by holding them up to the location of the original trunk lid supports, and seemed like they were pretty close to what I needed. The one end used a 7/16" NC pivot ball stud, and the other used a mounting plate. So I drilled out the top 5/16" hole on my '39 and tapped it to 7/16" thread. Then propped the trunk lid open and measured about 26.5" from the top edge, down to where it should mount. Drilled and tapped two holes per side, plus two smaller holes for the alignment pins. Bolted it on and closed the trunk lid!
It works perfectly, and no more lifting the trunk lid, or holding it back as I lower it either. The struts do all the work, and make it an easy operation both directions! Love free stuff that works out!







Ran into yet another stumbling block with the late model SBC engine! I am really clueless about these post 1986 engines, so didn't realize the seller had left the one piece rear main seal housing off the engine! My new pan came today, and I ran out to the shop to test fit it. Set it on the block and the last holes in the rear had no place to bolt too!!! I drilled for my handle now also, so I have a way to lift the trunk lid. Ground out two small cracks on the edge of the fiberglass trunk lid, and smeared some Duraglass into the opened up areas too. So it's ready to finish once I get the inside of the trunk latch setup built, and installed later.
I began looking at the back, and realized something was missing. Went in to my computer and searched for "rear main seal housing SBC" and up pops images of a bolt on housing for the rear of the engine. So back to the internet and found one on Ebay for $10 and ordered it. Nickels and dimes, but the irritating part is waiting again to get it assembled. Guess I'll know these later SBC engines by the time I'm finished!


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 09-06-19 03:43 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-08-19 01:40 PM - Post#2775053    
    In response to 1971BB427

Installed the oil pump and pickup today. Checked the height, and then tossed a tack on it to hold it.



Painted the axle and calipers with Hammerite dark silver. Almost a bare metal color, and I like it. Then assembled the disc brakes and checked the clearances with the wheels.







A good solid inch clearance from the closest point from caliper to rim.

Cut piece of 2" box tubing and tacked it across the top of the frame rails to hold everything once I pull the crossmember out.




I'll replace this temporary crossmember with a permanent one once I know where it can go without interfering with anything.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


Edited by 1971BB427 on 09-08-19 02:10 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-09-19 04:16 PM - Post#2775178    
    In response to 1971BB427

Long day today, as I was under the cowl looking at mounting points when I spotted still more rust I'd missed! It isn't visible, structural, or really a problem. But it was rusted metal, and needed to be addressed. And it was on both sides, once I saw one and looked at the other.
The toe boards angle back, but the cowl goes straight down to the frame. The bottom of both cowls were rotted, and I had to cut them out and weld in new metal today. About 3 hours per side, but they're done. Hopefully the last of the rust, as I inspected the underside end to end and didn't see anything else.
So maybe I can get back on drivetrain now.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-11-19 11:54 AM - Post#2775345    
    In response to 1971BB427

Bit the bullet and whacked the axle in half. Then took a 4" piece off the top of one half, and another 4" piece off the bottom of the other half. Overlapped the two joints and ground all the edges to a knife edge for deep penetration. Clamped a piece of 1.5" tubing in the side of the beam, and another piece of 2" box across the spring perches. That lined both sides and top up perfectly until I could put as many tacks on as possible.





After the tacking, I pulled just the box tube off and welded up top and bottom joints on the outside. Then I pulled the round tube and welded inside the web everywhere else. I could see as I flipped the axle over that the welds penetrated from the other side, so that ensured I got good welds.

On the bottom side I left the weld slightly high, since nobody can see that area. Could have left it even higher, but it wont increase strength.



Inside the web I got the die grinder out and ground the welds even on the front side, but left the back slightly high also, since it wont be seen either.



Gave it all another coat of paint, and reinstalled the springs.





My frame measures 29" wide at the rear mounting point, and 28" wide at the front. Another 3/4" lip added to the full edge also. My spring spacing is 28" at the rear, and 27" front, so it sits under the frame rails perfectly now. It also is 67" OA width to the sidewalls of the tires. So with my 70" fender OA width, the tires will sit in 1.5" inside! Exactly where I wanted everything to sit.
This will really make installing the front axle a bunch easier, and not require any spring mounts to be built outside the frame rails either! Gotta make a trip to the steel yard and pick up material to build all the mounts now.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 176

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
09-13-19 12:37 PM - Post#2775466    
    In response to 1971BB427

Unbolted the last 4 bolts on the front crossmember, and pulled it out from under the car this morning. Then loaded it into my SUburban, along with the radiator support, grille divider, steering column, tires and wheels, and the brake parts off the Chevy pickup axle. Took them over to Joe at Old Car Parts and he gave me $250 store credit! So while I was there I got the window channels for both doors, the whiskers for garnish molding, driver's side turn signal housing, and the weatherstripping for the windshield. I took the remaining credit for later, as I'm sure I'll need other bits.
Then swung by the steel yard and got some box tubing for the front spring mounts. 2" for the front spring eyes to fit inside of, and 1.5" for the rear to attach the shackles to. I needed the 1.25" x .125" DOM round tube to build my tie rod and drag link also, so got a 20' stick of that too. Was going to get a 10' stick, but another 10' was only $15 more, so silly to buy 10' for $50 when 20' is $65.

Mocked up the straight axle under the frame, just to see what the difference would be front to back to get 7 degrees of kingpin angle, and it came out as 4.5" at the rear. So with 3" shackle centers I just need a 1.5" drop off the frame. Front will only need 1" drop, so it will allow my mounts to stay pretty close to the frame.



I realized I had installed one spring backwards to the other, but figured they were the same. They weren't. Same distance to the eyes, but one short leaf is longer on one end, so reversed it to correct before I got too far along.



Threw on a pair of old Ford pattern rollers, but the center is too small, and only able to get about 4 threads before I ran out. My Torq Thrust fit fine, as they have larger centers to fit.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy passenger coupe
1946 Austin gasser 327/TH350

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy /D...
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/DSCF3 906.JP...


 


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