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Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: 65 Impala Convertible Top motor        (Topic#357235)
Virginia65 
Poster
Posts: 5

Reg: 07-15-19
07-15-19 08:24 AM - Post#2770735    

I could use some advice. My top started going up, then just died back down. I now hear no noise from the motor. I've got the back seat out and it is dead silent. I pulled the connector apart from the wiring harness. I get a small DC voltage reading (like 20 millivolts) with the car running and the top switch activated. The reading actually jumps up to about 25 then settles down to 20. So, I don't know if the voltage is too low or the motor is bad. I'd like to not buy a new motor simply to discover a wiring or power problem. All other electrical items (lights, radio) seem fine in the car and no fuses look blown. Car starts easily also. Thanks in advance.



 
Ecklers AutoMotive
steve65 
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 756
steve65
Age: 61
Loc: new westminster bc
Reg: 09-25-13
07-15-19 11:43 AM - Post#2770751    
    In response to Virginia65

There is a circuit breaker just above/behind the drivers side kick panel. Check for your voltages there. wish I could explain better but I'm at work now.
Steve65

Steve Duncan
65 Impala SS Convertible
Ermine White/ Black Top
357 4 spd auto



 
steve65 
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 756
steve65
Age: 61
Loc: new westminster bc
Reg: 09-25-13
07-15-19 03:48 PM - Post#2770772    
    In response to steve65

In the '65 service manual in the sticky section above.
Page 340 or section 12, body and chassis, page 42.
Shows you where to look.
Steve65

Steve Duncan
65 Impala SS Convertible
Ermine White/ Black Top
357 4 spd auto



 
Virginia65 
Poster
Posts: 5

Reg: 07-15-19
07-15-19 05:29 PM - Post#2770780    
    In response to steve65

I found what I think is the circuit breaker. It is completely inaccessible, almost behind the dash on the sidewall about as high up as my knee. In any event, I tested voltages at the top switch. There are 3 wires to the switch. I get 12+ volts between the red wire and either of the other two (purple and gray I think). Also, I think this means the circuit breaker is OK. I rechecked voltage at the other end of those wires where they connect to the motor/pump...I get a very small reading and that's it.



 
Virginia65 
Poster
Posts: 5

Reg: 07-15-19
07-16-19 04:40 AM - Post#2770805    
    In response to Virginia65

Steve, I really appreciate your help, so please chime in if you have another thought. Here's where I got this morning...before work:

Red power comes into my top switch. Purple and gray come out (one to raise, one to lower). At the switch, I have 12+ volts between red and either of the other two. I checked continuity of each (gray and purple) wire to the rear seat....good. I also got 12+ volts between the red input at the switch and each wire at the motor. So, I think the motor is bad. I also got continuity across the motor. I never smelled anything burnt when it stopped working. Just don't know.



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4233

Reg: 12-29-02
07-17-19 10:09 AM - Post#2770913    
    In response to Virginia65

From your description I don't believe you are checking it correctly. You need to measure from each wire to a chassis ground point.

If you measure from the red power wire to each motor wire and you always get 12V then the switch is never connecting power to the motor wires.





 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3062

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
07-17-19 03:33 PM - Post#2770933    
    In response to Virginia65

There is a good chance that it isn't the motor at all, but the pump gears that have become gummed up. I have found that taking the motor & pump assembly out of the car, and then pulling it apart, you will see the pump gears. Clean this with brake cleaner, and then try it out of the car with some jumpers and a battery. If the motor spins, then you should be able to reinstall it.
Also, make sure that there isn't any damage to the wires going from the front of the car to the rear before doing anything else.
I had found a youtube video a few years ago that explained how to repair the motor pump assembly. If you decide to replace it, clean out the old brake fluid (that is what GM used for hydraulic fluid), and replace it with automatic transmission fluid.



Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Virginia65 
Poster
Posts: 5

Reg: 07-15-19
07-18-19 04:07 AM - Post#2770963    
    In response to junky

Thanks a ton to all.

I have already ordered a new unit, but I'll probably disassemble the old one out of curiosity. I believe I've verified continuity thru the wires ok, but I'll recheck my voltage readings. I had replaced the lines and lift cylinders a few years back and used ATF at that time. Also, I watched the video about how to restore the internals. Normally, I would dive right in, but $250 was a better use of my time right now. thanks again. I'll let you all know.



 
centsless 
Contributor
Posts: 142
centsless
Loc: Forest Hill MD
Reg: 10-28-13
07-18-19 02:38 PM - Post#2771000    
    In response to Virginia65

Go to the motor in the back. Ground your voltmeter at the motor ground. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the purple wire. It should read 0 volts until you operate the switch. Then it should read 12 volts. Do the same with the gray wire, and it should do the same thing when the switch is operated in the opposite direction. If you have 12 volts there when the switch is operated, you have a bad motor. If you are not getting 12 volts there, check the ground and make sure it is good.If the ground is good go to the switch. You already said you have 12 volts at the red wire, so the breaker is good. See if you have 12 volts at the purple and gray wires when the switch is operated. If not, you have a bad switch.

Bob
66 Impala convertible
66 Biscayne 427 2 door post
66 Caprice 4 door hardtop
66 Caprice 2 door
81 Corvette
96 DGGM Impala SS
01 S10
15 Silverado
2003 Crown Victoria LX Sport "Icky Vicky"
1965-66 FSCC member #530


 
Virginia65 
Poster
Posts: 5

Reg: 07-15-19
07-21-19 10:53 AM - Post#2771230    
    In response to centsless

I appreciate you all. It turns out my electrical was fine. I received the motor from Ecklers. Only hiccup was it arrived with one bracket broken off (the spot welds broke) so I had to find a friend with a welder. Swapped the motor in today and all is good. I'll do an autopsy on the old one when time permits



 
Ecklers AutoMotive
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