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Username Post: Mattimus - 1952 Styleline Deluxe Sport Coupe        (Topic#356321)
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
05-07-19 01:34 PM - Post#2765894    

Hello everyone. t's been a long time since I've done a build thread on anything. Figured I would try it here and get some input as I go along.
This is actually my 3rd 49-54 Chevy car. Previously I also had a 54 BelAir 2-door and a 54 210 4-door (and about 20 other cars before and after those). I had been building old Kawasaki bikes for the last few years and had the itch to get back into an old car again. For the last forever I've lived in apartments and I have to say, building anything in those garages is daunting.

I found this car on Craigslist. Lucky for me, it was less than 5 miles from my house. The car was complete, minus engine/trans. The trunk was full of all the chrome trim not already on the car, and a bolt on visor. It came with a 70 Nova 10-bolt rear end (separate) which is perfect for my intentions. I had it towed home and the first thing I did was take an inventory of all the parts I had and tore it down (labeling everything in the process), and pulled it off the frame. Overall it is pretty solid. First glance showed that the rockers and braces needed some of the typical love.

But first, I decided to make my life easier and had it dustless blasted. Best money ever spent. In the 20+ years I've been tinkering on cars, I've always just spent months of my time with gallons of paint stripper, sanding wheels and everything else to try and remove paint from a car. Results were never great and it always felt half-censoreded. So I splurged and had it done in my driveway.


More to come...

Attachment: uEqIzPj.jpg (3.71 MB) 55 View(s)


First time I saw her.


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Attachment: 25wWyAG.jpg (2.15 MB) 64 View(s)




--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


Edited by Mattimus on 05-07-19 01:39 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 




Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
05-07-19 02:04 PM - Post#2765896    
    In response to Mattimus

I started doing some minor patch work and then started the rocker work on the drivers side. This meant a bunch of metal from EMS. Inner/outer rockers, braces, lower quarter panels, etc. I tried to do all my cutting and welding while it was on the little body dolly I made, but this meant doing it all on my back and it just made things way harder than they needed to be. I'm not 19 anymore and the constant crawling out from under the car was getting old quickly. So I did what any sane person would do and built a rotisserie. Using the free plans from RedWing Steel Works, I got it done and flipped the car on its side. I should have made one of these 20 years ago!

Now I can clean up the ugly welds and get things right. As of right now, I have begun the oh-so-fun process of removing all the original(?) tar from the bottom. I am doing this so I can make sure all the metal is good, patching/replacing where its needed, and also so I can have peace of mind knowing there is no more rust hidden under there. I have done my fair share of hack builds in my younger days, and I just can't seem to do that anymore. I would just feel bad selling shoddy work to someone now. So I will clean it all using my trusty occilating tool, grinder with a knotted wire wheel and some lacquer thinner. Worked great with minimal effort on my hood.


Attachment: sill.jpg (4.02 MB) 55 View(s)


initial rocker work


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Newly built rotisserie


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Hood (brace removed for stripping)


--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6492
Keith_Knox
Age: 79
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
05-07-19 07:12 PM - Post#2765917    
    In response to Mattimus

Looks like a great project. Good luck with it.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17. Sold 9/16/20
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
05-29-19 07:37 AM - Post#2767278    
    In response to Mattimus

Small update...

These pics are kinda old, but I have been slowly working at getting most all of the undercoating off the bottom of this pig. As of this writing, I have everything off except above the rear axle and the spare tire wheel well. I anticipate that I will be removing both of these sections to accommodate both a larger gas tank and an air suspension. There is nothing more satisfying than wiping a section down with lacquer thinner and seeing clean bare metal. There are a few small patches that I need to make, but nothing that warrants getting a whole floor panel.


Over the holiday weekend I found myself painting some motorcycle parts for friends. While I was at it, I decided to paint my stock wheels. After some primer, some sanding, more primer and more sanding, I shot some black paint I had. Then I covered it with Tamco Hi-Impact clear. I have been really impressed with Tamco paint products. Affordable and the clears always seem to lay like glass. This is even more impressive since I shoot everything in my garage. I was really excited with the results of shooting the black. As everyone knows, any imperfection is usually seen, but I appear to have got lucky this time.

Next up on my list of things to do is to clean up the welds around by drivers side bracing and flip it so I can start replacing everything on the passenger side.



Attachment: early_floor2.jpg (751.9 KB) 56 View(s)
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--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6492
Keith_Knox
Age: 79
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
05-29-19 09:02 AM - Post#2767283    
    In response to Mattimus

Looks good. Keep plugging away.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17. Sold 9/16/20
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
01-21-20 01:40 PM - Post#2784820    
    In response to Mattimus

Well, its been a long minute since I last updated this. I've been doing a lot of smaller rust repairs. Not much of it worth showing.
In the last few months I have:
-welded in new body mounts (all 6 main)
-welded in new inner and outer rockers (both sides)
-welded in new front lower quarter panels (both sides).
-welded up the stock fresh air inlets on firewall because I planned on installing AC (I do live in Texas after all )
-handbuilt and welded in new sheetmetal around front seat mounts (they really need to make just this section)
-made many new patches.
In the end, I wonder if I would of been better off buying and welding in a complete new floor.

Attachment: next5.jpg (3.24 MB) 43 View(s)


Here is a few quick shots of the lower quarter replacement. Made sure to clean behind it and protect it from the elements.


Attachment: next6.jpg (3.61 MB) 38 View(s)


initial mockup


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tacked in.


--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
01-21-20 01:59 PM - Post#2784821    
    In response to Mattimus

Now that I have most of the floor and underside cleaned up, I can move on to various other parts of the body. The part that has been giving me the most grief recently is above the rear wheel arch. I tried to make the wheel arch once by hand and hated it. It did not match the curvature of the fender skirts I have. Then I remembered that I have a set of shrinker/stretchers that I can use to make a clean curve that follows my skirt exactly. I started making these, but this project has been put on hold temporarily until I get the body back on the frame. Which leads me to where I am now.

I pulled my frame back in from its nearly year long slumber outside next to the shed. As you can see, the transmission/K-member is pretty rotted. Tomorrow I should receive a new transmission crossmember from Murray Kustom Rods ( Check it out here ) as well as their new rear crossmember. Sure, I could of spent hours trying to salvage the stock ones and get them back into shape, but here we are. I also dig the slim design of their trans/k-members.



Attachment: trans2.jpg (1.34 MB) 33 View(s)


This is the good side. The metal all around is pretty thin and not worth trying to patch back together with new metal.


Attachment: trans1.jpg (1.72 MB) 32 View(s)


Time to descale, remove misc brackets and get ready for prime.


Attachment: rearcross.jpg (1.39 MB) 35 View(s)


I hate to break up a happy home, but these fellas need to leave.


--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


Edited by Mattimus on 01-21-20 02:11 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
01-21-20 02:04 PM - Post#2784822    
    In response to Mattimus

A few misc pics

Attachment: next8.jpg (2.44 MB) 34 View(s)


The bad section in question. I will get to this once the body is back on the frame.


Attachment: fenderback.jpg (4.65 MB) 30 View(s)


Don't forget to repair the backside. You know its rotten back there.


Attachment: fender.jpg (3.22 MB) 35 View(s)


First attempt.


--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
tommy49 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2955
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
01-21-20 03:18 PM - Post#2784830    
    In response to Mattimus

I suggest you do the wheel opening while it's on the rotisserie. I did mine on the frame and it was a pain to get to the back side of the opening. If I ever get a rotisserie, that's the first area I'll rework. Keep up the good work!

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 4.8/4L60E swap in progress, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...




 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
01-21-20 06:21 PM - Post#2784840    
    In response to tommy49

Thanks for the advice. It would really make more sense to do it before mating the body. I'm just getting excited about doing the fun body work once I can line things up on the body.

Honestly, spending the $500 on metal and building the rotisserie was the best thing I've ever done in this hobby. I wish I would of done it 20 years ago. My knees and back would of appreciated it for sure.

--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
tommy49 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2955
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
01-22-20 03:38 AM - Post#2784863    
    In response to Mattimus

I hear ya on the back & knees. I've been thinking of buying one, then sell it when I'm done.

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 4.8/4L60E swap in progress, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...




 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
01-23-20 08:24 AM - Post#2784960    
    In response to Mattimus

New trans/K-member and rear crossmember From Murray Kustom Rods came in. You have to love one day delivery! These are pretty stout. Hardware looks great and is neatly organized/labeled. Tonight I will start the process of cutting off the old rivets, cleaning the mounting points and installing the new members. While I save a few more pennies for my rear suspension setup, I'll pull out the Nova rear axle and get it cleaned up, change it over to disc brakes and prep it for installation.


Thanks for looking



Attachment: members.jpg (4.38 MB) 36 View(s)
Attachment: members2.jpg (3.26 MB) 34 View(s)

--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
05-20-20 10:46 AM - Post#2794281    
    In response to Mattimus

I guess I can put a small update on here. Its been a few months. Back in February I finished the bottom side of the car for the most part. Cleaned up the welds on the rockers and braces. Made a new splash panel for in front of the rear wheels/back of rockers, removed the spare wheel tub for the eventual airride install, and a few other small things to wrap that up. Then I did the smart thing and ordered the master body bolt kit from Ecklers. You know, the expensive one with most all the bolts you may need? Well that was delayed.... and it still isn't here. Appears that Totally Stainless (the source) closed due to Covid, so I have absolutely not ETA on getting those. Sad thing is I already took the car off the rotisserie so I could start aligning panels and prep for the suspension install. So now I'm filling my time with smaller tasks.




I shaved off the gas flap. I got a little warpage there that I'll get out once the real body work starts. My plan is to still utilize the stock gas tank just flip the inlet to the trunk. I'll also be sure to seal it well to prevent fumes from getting into the cabin. I'll make a new 'box' that holds the cap that will connect to the stock tube(?) that housed the filler neck. This will also allow it to vent outside.



I decided to mock up my rear bumper because I wanted to bring it in an inch or two. Turns out the car was tapped on the passenger side sometime in the past, so its not straight. I've debated new bumpers, possibly a 54 front bumper. Now would be the time to decide so I can correct this.


So onto the next thing... I welded up the license place holder and the trunk emblem/handle holes. I'll be moving the plates to the bumper and will eventually shave the key hole, but I want to finish that before I fill that hole. Next I moved over to the drivers side taillight area. My intent is to lower the lights a couple of inches. In the process of that I found that the curves of the drivers side did not match the passenger side. It was as if that whole tailfin/taillight area on the drivers side was significantly narrower than the passenger side. So I cleaned out most of the leaded part below the light and pulled it apart. Now both sides match. Now that I figured that out, I can lower them, but I'll wait until I decide on which bumper to go with.


Then I decided to work on the roof. I am not chopping this one, so all I need to do is smooth it out and prep it for paint. So I sanded, sanded, sanded and sanded it down until most all the epoxy was gone. The whole time looking for low/high spots. once I knew what I was getting into, I shot it with Tamco's DTM primer (yup, its white) and sanded some more. This is probably the smoothest roof I have ever worked on. Its got a few low spots, but it did not take much filler at all. I've already sanded the filler down to almost nothingness, and I just need to put another coat of primer over it. Should be ready for high build soon.



I picked up a used 5.3L engine from a friend. Originally just needed a shortblock for mockup of my driveline, but once I swap the FI for a carb, I can use it to get around a bit until I get a crate motor. My plan is to drive this car constantly, so a good motor is priority for me. I already have a Nova rear and a TH400 I can use for the time being.


Speaking of mockup, a month or so ago I went ahead and ordered a full IFS front suspension and rear air suspension from Murray Kustom Rods in Ft. Worth. They are a little more $$$ than the Gambino and Fatman kits that everyone uses, but I feel they are more aesthetically pleasing and appear well built. I already had their trans and rear cross members, so it wasn't a hard choice for me. Both of these should be getting shipped out any day now. so I am ready to begin mockup. I will most likely pull the body off the frame again to set this up. Shouldn't be hard since I haven't received my body bolt kit yet.
For those interested in the kits I got: Rear Suspension IFS Front

Well, thats all I can think of for now. Hopefully the next update is more productive. Thanks for watching.


--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
06-04-20 01:10 PM - Post#2795665    
    In response to Mattimus

Received my suspension the other day. Nothing better than getting a big ol' pallet of parts dropped off. Out of pure excitement I went ahead and mocked up the front end. It went together like a childs puzzle. I'll have a few friends help me pull the body off again this weekend so I can mock up the rear and begin welding things together. I can't wait to have this thing rolling again. Hopefully more to come soon...







--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
johnwd98 
Contributor
Posts: 501
johnwd98
Age: 71
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
06-05-20 05:56 AM - Post#2795704    
    In response to Mattimus

Looks like good quality, well built suspension parts. But, is the caster, camber adjustments on the lower control arms? I can't see an obvious way to adjust the upper control arms.

1950 Fleetline, 355 TBI, mild cam, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C,


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
06-05-20 07:13 AM - Post#2795707    
    In response to johnwd98

  • johnwd98 Said:
Looks like good quality, well built suspension parts. But, is the caster, camber adjustments on the lower control arms? I can't see an obvious way to adjust the upper control arms.



I was actually wondering that myself. I see where I can adjust the camber and toe, but not caster. There really isn't any room to add shims to the UCA. Per their website, "All of our frontend alignment is done off of the lower control arm mounting bolts". This would be new to me. Once I get everything set up at ride height I will see how far off it is. I won't fully weld the UCA mounts until I can make sure things are right.

I should probably order tires soon. That might come in handy.

--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
06-05-20 05:55 PM - Post#2795731    
    In response to Mattimus

I missed the camber question. There are camber bolts where the LCA's attach. Can't see them in the pics though. Standard eccentric bolt style held in with two button headed bolt heads. Odd but neat design

--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
johnwd98 
Contributor
Posts: 501
johnwd98
Age: 71
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
06-06-20 05:16 AM - Post#2795751    
    In response to Mattimus

  • Mattimus Said:
I missed the camber question. There are camber bolts where the LCA's attach. Can't see them in the pics though. Standard eccentric bolt style held in with two button headed bolt heads. Odd but neat design



I suspected that. I've seen factory IFS with that design, Ford is one of them. I don't recall ever seeing after market IFS adjusting caster/ camber that way. It must have worked well for factory applications, they used that design for years.

1950 Fleetline, 355 TBI, mild cam, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C,


 
cbennett1 
Newbie
Posts: 2

Reg: 10-12-14
06-29-20 08:17 AM - Post#2797438    
    In response to Mattimus

Any update on the rear suspension? I have the MKR parts too! Just starting to mock up my rear kit, Just wanted to see how your project is going. Thanks!

1953 Chevy 210


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
07-01-20 07:05 AM - Post#2797615    
    In response to cbennett1

Sorry for the delay, I have been out of town for a while. I have most of the rear completed. The notches are in and welded up. The rear forward crossmember and bag brackets are welded up as well. I am currently waiting on a new transmission mount so I can set my ride height and pinion angles. Once I have that I will weld the brackets to my rear end and complete the setup. Overall I am very impressed with this kit.


Soon I will start cutting out the trunk area to allow clearance for the notch and tires


I have also completely welded up the front suspension as well. The arms, brakes and bags are just mocked up at the moment waiting for me to finish setting up the ride height. No bearings are installed in the discs yet which is why they look real close to the spindles. This will all get torn apart later for paint.



Now that I have returned home, I'll be spending the next two weeks in quarantine, so that gives me plenty of time to work on this. And hopefully my new garage cabinets arrive so I can clean up the clutter at the same time.


--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
08-04-20 08:24 AM - Post#2800283    
    In response to Mattimus

I finally got around to cutting the trunk area to accommodate the notch. Must of been at least 100 spot welds to drill out. I'd really like to keep the trunk area looking stock(ish) and not just put a generic round or boxed cover over the axle like most people do when they put a car on air. So I decided I am going to try and simply raise the stock hump and try to blend it back into the floor. At the same time I will make an access panel so I can easily access the air components if needed. I also plan to keep the stock spare tire location, but since I will have to shorten it, I will just make it a storage box for misc tools and such. It works in my head, so hopefully I can bring that to life.


I still haven't welded my brackets onto my rear axle yet. That's the last piece really preventing me from finishing the suspension setup. I decide not to use the TH400 trans I have. Its too long for my trans mount and in all honesty, I really want an overdrive. So once I pick up a 700R4 I'll put it back together, set my pinion angles setup and get things welded.

I recently received my master bolt kit after roughly 6 months of waiting (damn you Covid!). So I was finally able to put the body back onto the frame. I am currently in the process of getting everything lines up and bolted down. I expected a little bit of issues since I replaced all the body mounts, but found myself pleasantly surprised how well things lined up. Now I can put the fenders on, align my panels and finally knock out some bodywork. This is honestly the part I kind of enjoy the most. When it starts to look like a real car again. Its been torn apart so long I tend to lose hope that it will get completed. There is still quite a bit of work ahead of me, but it is a small victory in the life of the project.

Hopefully my next update will be more substantial.

--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


Edited by Mattimus on 08-04-20 08:24 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
cbennett1 
Newbie
Posts: 2

Reg: 10-12-14
08-06-20 03:13 PM - Post#2800463    
    In response to Mattimus

Looking good man! Thanks for sharing the update


1953 Chevy 210


 
DrSmile 
Newbie
Posts: 2

Loc: Scottsdale, AZ
Reg: 08-14-20
08-14-20 03:37 PM - Post#2801116    
    In response to Mattimus

Thank you for the hint about making a rotisserie!



 
BAJohnny 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 72
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-04-13
08-14-20 07:41 PM - Post#2801138    
    In response to DrSmile

Can you please tell me the dimensions of the 2 x 4 stanchions that you are using. Thanks in advance for your help.

1953 BelAir 2dr Sedan
1953 BelAir 2dr Hardtop


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
08-31-20 08:01 AM - Post#2802387    
    In response to BAJohnny

  • BAJohnny Said:
Can you please tell me the dimensions of the 2 x 4 stanchions that you are using. Thanks in advance for your help.



Sorry, I just saw this question. The long boards are 16" and the short sides are 12".

--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
BAJohnny 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 72
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-04-13
08-31-20 08:15 AM - Post#2802388    
    In response to Mattimus

Thanks so much for getting back to ma, I really appreciate it.

1953 BelAir 2dr Sedan
1953 BelAir 2dr Hardtop


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
08-31-20 08:23 AM - Post#2802389    
    In response to Mattimus

I have made some progress in the last few weeks. I finally picked up my fresh 700R4 trans that I had built and got it installed. This allowed me to finally get the pinion angles set and finish welding up the rear airbag brackets. By doing this I was able to get the car off the cribbing and closer to the ground. I still need to add a little clearance to the tunnel towards the back, but I will wait until I get the driveshaft installed. I only want to raise what is needed and not get crazy with that. I also need to raise up the wheel wells slightly. So I have that going for me too. After I get that going, I will try and get good pics of the back end. Right now it just looks like hacked up metal and is not flattering enough to show. :smile :





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--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 
Mattimus 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 28
Mattimus
Loc: Austin, Tx
Reg: 08-06-18
08-31-20 08:48 AM - Post#2802392    
    In response to Mattimus

While I had the engine out for the umpteenth time, I went ahead and clearanced the vertical supports so the sbc would fit better. They look a little 'notchy' to me. Its probably because I tried to retain the OEM 'folded' outside edge. I have beat my knuckles on too many sharp edges to count and I know my hands will be back there eventually down the line... I will finish them a little better at when I bodywork the firewall prior to paint. I was too anxious to get the new trans installed and get me a little more working space in my garage.


I also took some time to finally replace the lower portion of the drivers door as well as a small patch from some old body work. Made sure to neutralize any rust I could see inside and gave it all a coat of matte enamel. It took a bit to get the shape right on the lower skin, but I am happy with it. Not too bad for a cheap english wheel. A little more hammering on the weld line and it'll be nice and smooth and should keep the filler to a minimum.




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--1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe (under construction)


 




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