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Username Post: Guidance for 63 no start issue        (Topic#356196)
loco 
Member
Posts: 127
loco
Reg: 01-12-03
04-28-19 10:28 AM - Post#2765202    

This issue started a few months ago and I've been chasing it ever since. Not sure where to go next so I am seeking guidance from the good folks at Chevy Talk

Basically, when I turn the key, I get full power from the battery, but all I hear is a click. Occasionally, it will start, its random.

I have replaced the starter, voltage regulator, alternator, ground straps, coil, battery, ignition switch. Can you point me in another direction ??

Video of what is happening:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziEBijxIM9E



Edited by loco on 04-30-19 07:09 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ecklers AutoMotive
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 282
55Brodie
Age: 67
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
04-28-19 10:32 AM - Post#2765203    
    In response to loco

Disconnect the two multi firewall wire connectors and clean the terminals with a small brass wire brush. Reconnect and give it a go.



 
loco 
Member
Posts: 127
loco
Reg: 01-12-03
04-28-19 11:37 AM - Post#2765210    
    In response to 55Brodie

Just spent the last 20 minutes taking the connectors apart and cleaning them. No real change.

What’s interesting, is when it does start, there is a click sound the instant I turn the key, then it fires up instantly. Just as you see in the video. Sounds like the click may be from the starter area but cannot tell from inside the car.

Brand new starter, even took it back off and had it tested when it didn’t solve the issue.



 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1249
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
04-28-19 12:09 PM - Post#2765213    
    In response to loco

  • loco Said:
Just spent the last 20 minutes taking the connectors apart and cleaning them. No real change.

What’s interesting, is when it does start, there is a click sound the instant I turn the key, then it fires up instantly. Just as you see in the video. Sounds like the click may be from the starter area but cannot tell from inside the car.

Brand new starter, even took it back off and had it tested when it didn’t solve the issue.




Either the + or - battery cables could be at fault, or their connectors. The starter solenoid could be also.

'Jump' the positive battery post directly to starter. See what happens when you try to start.

Repeat with the negative side; 'jump' the negative post to the block. See what happens.

Too much timing advance may cause start/crank issues. Usually that appears when the engine is 'hot'. 'Cold', it will likely start as it should.

Pete



Edited by japete92 on 04-28-19 12:14 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1326
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-28-19 12:28 PM - Post#2765214    
    In response to loco

Make sure your negative cable is grounded tightly. I've seen this a couple of times and the bolt fastening the cable to the block wasn't tight.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7175
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
04-28-19 03:40 PM - Post#2765226    
    In response to kingkreeton

  • kingkreeton Said:
Make sure your negative cable is grounded tightly. I've seen this a couple of times and the bolt fastening the cable to the block wasn't tight.


Or the battery post, negative or positive, sounds like a loose connection of power or ground.

With the key on, turn on the headlights, the heater fan on high, brake lights, signal lights and see as you draw more juice if everything works.

63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


 
gkralik3645 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 222
gkralik3645
Loc: omaha
Reg: 12-05-13
04-29-19 06:54 AM - Post#2765262    
    In response to loco

Sometimes there will be corrosion of the battery cable inside the rubber covering that is not visible. You can cut back the cover and examine it easily. I have found this to be the case several times. It will be right against the end of the cable.

George




 
Aaronbang 
Poster
Posts: 49

Age: 55
Loc: Visalia,CA
Reg: 08-13-14
04-29-19 08:00 AM - Post#2765269    
    In response to loco

A fairly rare problem (i've seen it twice in the last 20 years) is the battery will develop a crack internally between one of the posts and the plates. It will cause issues just like you describe. try a different battery just to rule that out.

If a hammer can't fix it, it really IS broken


 
69_BOWTIE 
Senior Member
Posts: 1027

Loc: WYOMING,USA
Reg: 02-27-02
04-30-19 07:01 AM - Post#2765373    
    In response to Aaronbang

Clean all your grounds also, This has giving me some major headaches especially the dash area = ign switch ,headlight switch. Have you looked at your NSS on the colum ??

2001 Silverado 4X4
2005 FXDWGI
69 CHEVY Short Step
63 IMPALA 2/DR HRDTOP 327


Edited by 69_BOWTIE on 04-30-19 07:04 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
loco 
Member
Posts: 127
loco
Reg: 01-12-03
04-30-19 08:51 AM - Post#2765377    
    In response to 69_BOWTIE

Thank you guys very much. This whole problem started about a year ago. I drove the car to a local store, just a few miles away, to pick up a few items. When leaving the store, it ran really rough. I couldn't figure out the problem. For some reason I had to reset the timing. Ever since then, its been one thing after another.

She runs like a top, pures like a kitten, but that strange start issue is really driving me crazy.



 
turbo38s10 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1671
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
04-30-19 11:58 AM - Post#2765390    
    In response to loco

make sure you have ground wires from the engine to the body and frame. If you hadn't changed the starter I would say it was the contact plate in the solenoid was burned from arcing and causing issues. We used to take it out and remove a c clip and turn it over and it would be just like having a new solenoid, but as long as your new starter had a new solenoid then that shouldn't be a problem.

Check all grounds.



 
loco 
Member
Posts: 127
loco
Reg: 01-12-03
09-10-19 07:57 AM - Post#2775232    
    In response to turbo38s10

After all of this time, I have my issue sorted out.....I hope. Someone had suggested that I try a new starter, even though the starter was brand new. This was actually one of the first things I replaced.

He mentioned to me that he had purchased a starter from Autozone and even though it was brand new, it was defective. Well, as it turns out, this was the case for me as well. I even took the starter back to them and had it tested, they said it was a good starter.

I replaced it this weekend with a Powermaster 9200 from Summit Racing and low and behold it appears to be fixed....





 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1249
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
09-10-19 08:42 AM - Post#2775242    
    In response to loco

  • loco Said:
After all of this time, I have my issue sorted out.....I hope. Someone had suggested that I try a new starter, even though the starter was brand new. This was actually one of the first things I replaced.

He mentioned to me that he had purchased a starter from Autozone and even though it was brand new, it was defective. Well, as it turns out, this was the case for me as well. I even took the starter back to them and had it tested, they said it was a good starter.

I replaced it this weekend with a Powermaster 9200 from Summit Racing and low and behold it appears to be fixed....






Or, in the process of 'remove/replace', you 'fixed' a poor connection. Or, by manipulating the cables, have positioned a faulty cable in a manner where 'juice' can flow thru it (think bad internal copper strands that got enough continuity 'work'). Old wires are rather cantankerous.

We will not know unless it craps out again (I hope it does not). IF you replace the + and - cables, recommend using 2 gauge (OEM is 6).

Pete





 
loco 
Member
Posts: 127
loco
Reg: 01-12-03
09-10-19 09:14 AM - Post#2775248    
    In response to japete92

  • japete92 Said:
  • loco Said:
After all of this time, I have my issue sorted out.....I hope. Someone had suggested that I try a new starter, even though the starter was brand new. This was actually one of the first things I replaced.

He mentioned to me that he had purchased a starter from Autozone and even though it was brand new, it was defective. Well, as it turns out, this was the case for me as well. I even took the starter back to them and had it tested, they said it was a good starter.

I replaced it this weekend with a Powermaster 9200 from Summit Racing and low and behold it appears to be fixed....






Or, in the process of 'remove/replace', you 'fixed' a poor connection. Or, by manipulating the cables, have positioned a faulty cable in a manner where 'juice' can flow thru it (think bad internal copper strands that got enough continuity 'work'). Old wires are rather cantankerous.

We will not know unless it craps out again (I hope it does not). IF you replace the + and - cables, recommend using 2 gauge (OEM is 6).

Pete





That is very possible also. I did have to change out the ring terminal on the "R" wire. The post was larger on the new solenoid so the stock ring terminal wouldn't fit.

So many possibilities. What helped me was my voltage meter. I had steady voltage going into the starter but the actual start was intermittent. Could have just been the solenoid also.

Either way, I had a smile on my face this weekend while I was cruising her around again




 
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