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Username Post: Grandaddy's 1953 150 2Dr Sedan        (Topic#355913)
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
06-16-19 07:25 AM - Post#2768556    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Video taken at the end of Saturday, June 15. Very excited at the change!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Fvj50LLJ0



Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 




Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
06-16-19 09:00 AM - Post#2768563    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

I posted links to videos of yesterday's activity but also wanted to add some pics. I've bemoaned the amount of rust on the car before, and we've covered the work that Metal Guy has done to get rid of the major rust damage. From day one, we had been discussing getting the entire car media blasted once the major work was done. I was 100% on board since it will save a ton of time sanding, wire wheeling, or otherwise removing the remaining surface (hopefully) rust as well as the paint left on the car. Metal guy finished up the major work about a week ago so it was time to get the old girl cleaned.

I didn't know anyone who provided blasting services so googled for "dustless blasting near me" a few weeks ago. Got hits for two vendors. Called the first one - and never got a reply. Amazing how some people don't want to make money. I emailed the second company and the owner returned my call within a few minutes. I talked with the owner, Joel, described what needed to be done, and agreed on a price. The "dustless blasting" system that they use utilizes recycled glass (I guess it's actually really fine sand but I'm no expert) mixed in a water stream; the water keeps the dust down AND, most importantly, keeps the metal temperature way, WAY down to prevent warping.



The media blaster showed up precisely at the agreed-upon time and got to work. Took them about 4 hours to clean the shell (inside and outside, main cabin and trunk), the frame (as much as they could get to it) and all of the front clip parts that I had brought over. For fun, we threw in Metal Guy's grill from his '55 Ford pickup (which is a piece of art in process).

Pic during blasting.


Pic of the car after blasting:


After the media blaster was done blasting, they cleaned up a lot of the area. As anyone who has blasted with any kind of media knows, though, that media goes everywhere - every nook and cranny, every seam, every spot where something can sit, it'll be there. Took us probably 3 hours to get everything blown out and cleaned as much as we could. The blaster actually recommends letting the car dry overnight but with the next day (today) being Father's day, we had to accelerate the schedule.

Once all of the cleanup was done, we wiped down everything we could with acetone. And then we got to painting; at the end of the paint session, we had consumed about 1.5 gallons of PPG epoxy primer. We sprayed it with my trusty 2.0MM primer gun. Boy, that was fun, fulfilling and exhausting! Here is a pic we took after we were done painting:




When done, I was absolutely stoked. I can't count how many times over the years I had dreamed of doing something like this to the car. It's a bit surreal that it's happening after all of these years.

As you might suspect, the blasting did reveal heretofore unseen rust damage. Spots found included two holes in the front windshield channel, swiss cheesed metal around the front fender mounting area, a few pinholes around the body, more rust damage to the beltline (where the SS molding goes) and some swiss-cheese on the inner wall structure behind the the B-Pillar on both sides. Some of this, I'll repair myself once I get the car into my shop. For the complex areas - beltline, windshield channel and fender mounts - I'm calling upon Metal Guy to handle those.

Oh, and of course we found rust damage on the fenders and hood. Metal Guy will handle the fender patches; I think I'll save the hood repair for my shop.

So at the end of the day, the car I have now is far, far different than that car I towed over to Metal Guy 3 months ago. So far, he's put in over 300 hours on the repairs and I've put some modest hours and a hefty chunk of change. If it wasn't my Grandaddy's car, and I knew then about the rust damage that I know now, it probably would have gone to the junkyard; anyone who would be objective about the car would have called it a goner and moved on to easier projects. I, however, am stubborn and sentimental and I won't apologize about it.

So now, I almost have a car that I can repair. Words can't express how stoked how I am.

And I hope that my Grandaddy and Daddy are seeing this and smiling. I loved them both dearly, miss them both, and learned a lot about cars from both. I just hope that my kids look at this car one day and have the same feelings for their dad.

Thanks for checking in. More goodness coming soon.

David



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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
one4dad 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1544
one4dad
Age: 76
Loc: Baton Rouge La
Reg: 01-17-10
06-16-19 02:59 PM - Post#2768597    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Love the videos. Keep up the good work. The new memories will be outstanding
Bill

Bill Wilson 50 styleline deluxe 2 door sold,- 51 styleline Deluxe 2 door ,'56 235 with dual carter webers on an Offenhauser intake, Fenton headers, 56 chevy rear end and 700R4 transmission.


 
tommy49 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2717
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
06-17-19 05:37 AM - Post#2768642    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

  • Franks_Old_53 Said:
  • tommy49 Said:
Great progress, David! I'm getting ready to order the TCI Eng IFS, but getting info from them is not easy. So, I have some questions for you and Metal Guy. Do you know how much drop, if any, is built into the crossmember and spring towers? The reason I ask has to with what spindles to order, stock or 2" drop. TCI-E can't answer that. I'm going with the RideTech adjustable coilovers and concerned if I can get the ride height adjusted without compromising the ride.




Hey, Tommy, give Todd Walton at Walton Fabrication a call. He worked at TCI for years (in their engineering department, I believe) and I'm betting that he can give you all the specs. He's also a TCI dealer; I bought my front end from him and he was a wealth of information (not just on the front end but on the car itself which was a huge help).

Good luck on your car!

David



I emailed Todd for information and a quote on the IFS, motor mounts, and trans crossmember. I've bought parts from Todd before, great guy to deal with.


Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 4.8/4L60E swap in progress, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...




 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
06-23-19 04:20 AM - Post#2769039    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Brought the old girl home yesterday. The day started off with me going over to Metal Guy's house to bolt on the rest of the TCI front suspension. Took maybe an hour to have her down on the ground and sitting on her own for the first time in 2-3 months:



This was the fun part. Earlier in the week, I had cleaned and painted the front suspension parts; I love seeing fresh paint on just about anything so that was a satisfying job. The NOT fun part was making room in my basement shop. I've let too much "stuff" accumulate over the years, so it took a while to make the space. Add in the space being occupied by the new rear end, tranny and engine and I'm pressed for space. Regardless, I made the space and made the call to the towing company. The driver, Dennis, picked her up and we had her home in about 5 minutes. Pic of her coming up my neighbor's driveway:



Yes - my neighbor's driveway. My very, VERY cool neighbor allows me to access my shop's boat door via their driveway. It is soooo nice to have good neighbors; they can make all the difference.

So my tow truck driver, Dennis, drops the old girl at the edge of the driveway, about 10 feet from the boat door, and kindly offers to help me push the car into the basement. I thank him but decline, explaining that I've been pushing this car around 38 years (no joke) and kind of wanted to do this latest "push" myself. I do though, get my daughter to help keep the passenger wheel lined up right. Without any steering to hold the front wheels steady, they had more than a mind of their own and didn't want to cooperate. After a few minutes, we had the old girl in the shop:



So for the first time EVER that I'm aware of - except for a few months that she sat in my grandmother's carport in the late 70's, the old girl is in a dry, climate controlled environment. She won't be rusting away every day and getting worse. The plan from here, at least the short term plan, is:

1(a)) - Get all of the remaining residual sand out of the car! It's like a beach in there!

1) Make more room in the shop.
2) Separate the body from the frame (may need to build a dolly for the body)
3)Remove the front and rear suspension
4) Clean and paint - maybe powdercoat - the frame.
5) Install the front and rear suspension.
5) Paint the bottom of the car
6) Mate the body and frame back together

I'm also getting Metal Guy to do some repair work on the front fenders. They were pretty solid but need some love and Metal Guy offered. I would do it myself but part of the repair includes re-creating some small portions of the wheel arch; seeing as how Metal Guy can do that in his sleep, I'm calling on him for this last bit of work.

And - for the record - I have started my portion of the body work on the car. There was this annoying dent just above the top of the passenger tail light mount that was driving me nuts. Got out the body hammer and dolly and slowly convinced it back to its original shape. There's a LOT more that still has to be done - but getting that one spot taken care of was awfully satisfying.

So from here on, a lot of what you'll see is my work. Unlike Metal Guy, I'm no expert - but I'm going to keep working on this old girl until I'm done. Besides, I have a shop full of parts - and the easiest way to make room is to install those parts - so that's some major motivation.

More to come soon.




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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
07-01-19 12:00 PM - Post#2769657    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Not the "Welcome Home" I was hoping for.....

During the reconstruction at Metal Guy's place, I had left the rear side windows in the car. After media blasting, we noticed some pinholes on the inner panel below the door - the panel that holds the window crank and arm rest. Considering that the panels are fairly flat, I thought I'd do the repairs on these myself. I thought "how hard could it be?".

I'm such an idiot. Here is what the panels looked like when I started assessing the damage over the weekend:





Step 1 was to remove the side glass. Not super hard but took a little while. Fortunately, I have a copy of the service manual for the car and the instructions were spot-on for removal. Amazingly, only one screw had to be drilled out.

While I was removing the glass, I reached up inside from underneath to try to maneuver either the glass or the crank mechanism - can't remember which - and that is when I learned that this wasn't going to be as simple a fix as I thought.

If you're familiar with these cars, you might already know that, for these windows, Chevy actually built a "pocket" that housed the window and crank mechanism. The "pocket" utilized a stamped section below the window that was then spot-welded to the inner panel to create the pocket. For this old girl, it became obvious that over the years, a lot of debris had sat in those pockets and progressively rotted the metal out. When I reached my hand up into that section, I should have felt the bottom of the pocket. Instead, I felt the rusty remains of the pocket. I checked the other side - exact same thing.

I had a choice - I could (a) ignore the damage and know that I had a compromised structure or (b) do what I knew was right and formulate a repair plan. I went with (b). Here's my plan:

1) Remove (as in cut out) the inner panels, leaving enough material on the edges to attach back to.

2) Using poster board, create templates of the pieces that are needed to restore the sections.

3) Get some sheet metal

4) Transfer the poster board templates to poster board.

5) Cut out and form the panels

6) Weld back in

The hardest part is going to be the corners of the pocket. From what I could tell, they were curved, so I'll have to come up with a method to create curved corners. I have some ideas but we'll have to see if they work. Fortunately for me, Metal Guy is more than willing to help if I need him. I think he feels bad about the damage - but there was no way you could see the damage without the windows out (which I should have done but didn't so this is all on me).

I didn't get too far on the plan but did get the driver panel cut out:



Fortunately, one of my fellow caraholics was ordering some metal for his projects, so he's going to pick up a 4x8 sheet of 18 gauge for me. That should be more than enough (size wise and thickness-wise) for me to make the repair panels from.

This is a bit of a bummer BUT it is not surprising at all. I'm lucky to have friends who are willing to help and it'll be a good learning experience for me. I've bent metal and welded metal but have never created rounded corners or put contours in. Should be interesting.



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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
tommy49 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2717
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
07-01-19 03:42 PM - Post#2769679    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Choices 1 through 6 were the rights ones to do.

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 4.8/4L60E swap in progress, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...




 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
07-25-19 05:13 PM - Post#2771587    
    In response to tommy49

Finally got started on the repairs. First step was to remove the panels and rotted pockets:



So I have my basic measurements. Next up is trying to form the pockets. Thanks to Metal Guy's guidance, I think that I can get this done.



Before I removed the pockets, I spent some time measuring the remains to try and get an idea of what I needed to make. Fortunately, there was still enough material to get the basic dimensions:







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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
07-25-19 05:29 PM - Post#2771589    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Let's make a pocket!

First things first, I cut myself a section of sheet metal out of the 4x10 panel of 18 gauge that my buddy helped me get. For those like me who haven't worked with sheet metal in years, allow me to remind you that 18 gauge is THICK stuff and doesn't like to bend. I thought I'd be able to cut the piece with my air-driven body saw; let's just say that the saw wasn't up to the task. As a result, I pulled out the 4,500 RPM spinning death wheel and put a carbide cutting wheel on it; yeah, that worked a LOT better than the air saw!

I have a small set of basic hammers and dollys but that's it. To compliment those, I also grabbed some sections of pipe I had laying around as well as any other tools I figured out I needed. For my workspace, I set up a simple bench with saw horses and a piece of 3/4 plywood. Turns out that the plywood was a good call as it allowed me to screw the sheet metal down while trying to form some of the bends and flanges. First pic:



Those first bends quickly taught/reminded me just how thick 18 gauge is; not complaining, though, as this new metal should more than restore the rigidity that the original panel had. At the end of a few hours of measuring, bending, measuring again, bending again, working the hammer/dolly and repeating, I had something that was starting to take shape:



After a little more work, I had something with the basic shape and flanges that I needed. Here's a comparison of the newly-formed pocket along with the original:



This was prior to test fitting. See next post for that fun!





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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
07-25-19 05:45 PM - Post#2771591    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Test Fitting the new panel

It actually went pretty well. At first, I couldn't get the pocket into the cavity where it is supposed to be. The biggest issue was the rear lower corner of the new pocket. I had to trim it up to where the corner started curving at about 6 inches from the top of the pocket. In addition, the top of the rear of the pocket had to be trimmed, along with the front mounting flange. I probably did about 5 or 6 test fittings. Each time, I'd trim a little more, try to install, determine where the obstruction(s) was/were, and trim some more. At the end of the day, I had this:



Comparison to the old panel:



I'm happy with the progress but there's still work to do. I have to finish shaping and welding up the lower corners, along with filling in some small holes made when I screwed the sheet metal to the plywood. Fortunately, my old mig welder is still working so this won't be a problem.

Overall, though, I'm happy that I'm making progress - and I'm doing the work. Now I just have to repeat the whole process for the passenger side AND fashion some patches for the lower parts of the inner panels. I also have to figure out how to recreate the drain line that should go from the pocket to the inner rocker panel - but I have an idea.

Thanks for checking in.





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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Keith_Knox 
Moderator and "17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6235
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
07-25-19 07:19 PM - Post#2771602    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Good job.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
09-29-19 01:46 PM - Post#2776719    
    In response to Keith_Knox

It's been a while but I haven't been slacking completely. I've completed the fabbing of the window pockets. The remaining tasks were to get the tabs for the felt window channel installed and add a drain tube.

For the drain tubes, I bought a piece of very short pipe, cut it in half, cleaned it, drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the lowest point of the pockets and then welded them in (lower right of top pocket, lower left of lower pocket):



After getting those in, I tried to tackle the tabs for the window felt. These are little spring-steel clips, held in by two rivets each, that I'm assuming secure the bottom of the felt window channels once installed. To begin, I first had to remove them from the old pockets which was 75% successful. I say 75% because, unfortunately and true to form, I broke one of them while removing. I'm pretty sure no one makes these so I tried my hand at making one from the metal I have on hand. It won't have the spring to it BUT I'm hoping that it's better than nothing. Here's a pic after cleaning and painting the clips:



To mount the clips, I'm going to use stainless steel rivets. I think that should hold the clips sufficiently. Next for the pockets will be painting them and getting them welded in. Plan is to to hit every surface with epoxy, EXCEPT for the flanges that will get weld-thru primer.

I'm accumulating a pretty big pile of parts that need epoxy. I feel a "painting party" coming on. Now I just need to hit up my buddy who has the paint booth and see if I convince him to let this amateur in there.

Next up - I'm going to shake things up and try some front fender repairs.



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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
09-29-19 02:17 PM - Post#2776720    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Time to tackle the fenders.......

I'm both lucky and not-so-lucky on my fenders. On the lucky side, the fenders I have are FAR, FAR better than the ones that were on the car when I inherited it; they have only the slightest of dents and dings on them.

The unlucky part, and you've probably already guessed it - they have rust. The funny thing about the rust is that most of the damage appears to started on the inside, not on the outside as I would have expected. The lower rear sections of both fenders are swiss-cheese; in addition to that issue, there are pin-holes spots peppering the fenders. Since the fenders flex so much, I don't want there to be any holes (other than for trim), so I'm going to fill them in.

I got the lower rear patches from EMS and was pretty impressed. The curves are spot on and the overall shape is great. Since the rust didn't go as high as the patch panels, I cut the panels down to leave as much original metal as possible. I'm also butt-welding the panels; I'm not completely opposed to lapping the panels but I wanted to butt-weld wherever possible.

First step was to cut the panels down to the size I wanted, fit them to their future home and mark the cut to remove the old panel.

Here's a pic of the passenger fender during mock-up of the panel:



To remove the foldover at the back of the fender, I simply ground the fold down until the fold was gone; I learned that trick years ago from Craig Hopkins and his How-to-ASAP DVD (back before YouTube was a thing). I then used a good old-fashioned cutoff wheel (a thin one) to cut the old panel off, using the new panel as a guide. Once I got the old panel off, I cleaned and painted the brace which was in excellent condition despite the rust around it.

Next, I used panel clamps to hold the patch in place while I started welding the two pieces together. I don't remember where I got these things but they are great for these kinds of projects. Pic of the panel clamped in place and ready to be welded:



If you look at the center of the wheel arch, on the lip, you can see the rust holes that I had to fill. The holes themselves were actually smaller but I used a step-bit to open them to the point where there was strong (enough) metal to weld on to. Boy, that was a ROYAL pain; the metal was stupid-thin in spots so I had to try every technique and setting on the welder to get the new metal in and not blow bigger holes in the fender.

After the typical cycle of make 4-5 small welds, let the panel cool, and repeat, I had the new panel welded on. The one part of the EMS panel that I don't like is that the wheel arch doesn't have the double-bend in it like the original panel. I used a hammer and dolly to the best of my ability to get the panel close; it isn't perfect but it is workable.

Here's a pic of the passenger fender as it stands now. The panel, as far as I'm concerned, is done; I'll leave the finessing to a real body and paint man. I still have a few more pinholes to address (you can see the sharpy marker circles in the pic below) but I'm close enough to declare a minor victory.


I'm about halfway through with the driver's fender. It's in slightly better shape but it does have a big hole from an antenna in it that I'm going to fill. That's for the next entry though. Hopefully, I'll get that done next weekend and post up.

In the meantime, it's also been parts-season. I've ordered a complete set of matching brackets and pullies for the engine so that I don't have to try and search out each one any longer. There's a lot of other parts coming - radiator, brake booster, steering column, etc. Needless to say, I need to get my rear in gear and make some progress.

Thanks for checking in.



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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
10-19-19 10:58 AM - Post#2778242    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

More fender time today! Got the patch for the driver's fender installed.







Next up is getting back on the rust damage around the window pockets by the back seats. I've started working on the patches for the panels (pockets are done) but have a ways to go. Turns out it isn't easy to replicate 3/4 inch wide beads in 18 gauge metal. One way or another, though, I'll get them done.

Over the last 2-3 weeks, I've accumulated a bunch of new parts BUT I am making myself stick to the rust repair. If I don't, I won't want to come back to it and get it done. Once I get the rust done, I think it's time for pulling the frame, getting the new rear end installed, painting the frame and maybe undercoating the car. So many things to do, but I'm sticking to the instructions on how to eat an elephant; one bite at a time.

Thanks for checking in.
David



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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 
Franks_Old_53 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 93
Franks_Old_53
Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
Reg: 11-16-02
10-30-19 04:29 AM - Post#2779117    
    In response to Franks_Old_53

Didn't have much car time this past weekend but did get to work on the first patch for the panel under the rear side windows. Metal Guy had shown me how he put beads into metal that look like factory so I took a try. I used a piece of 3/8 inch round bar in conjunction with a 1/2 inch steel pipe that I had cut down the center. Here are some pics:

Started by cutting an oversized piece of 18 guage for the panel.


Here's my homemade forming tool. Used it in conjuction with the BFH in the pic.


The somewhat finished product:


I'll probably end up doing some more work to get the panel to lay flat but it's pretty close. Unfortunately, this is as far as I got this weekend but hope to get more done soon.



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Accountant by profession, wanna-be car restorer by choice

Rebuilding my Granddad's 1953 Chevy 150 https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


 




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