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Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: Powder Coating Quote        (Topic#355607)
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1294
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-14-19 03:54 AM - Post#2762040    

I have never had anything powder coated before. Any idea what a reasonable quote would be to have A/C and alternator brackets powder coated?

Thanks



Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
Jalapeno 
Senior Member
Posts: 9765
Jalapeno
Loc: The Republic of Texas
Reg: 04-30-00
03-14-19 05:53 AM - Post#2762046    
    In response to kingkreeton

Most commercial powder coat companies have a minimum, usually $100-150 around here (North Texas). So you might want to round up a couple dozen more pieces to do, like bumper brackets or suspension parts, it's like getting them done for free.

Jalapeno


 
lone star 
Contributor
Posts: 151

Reg: 08-24-08
03-14-19 05:55 AM - Post#2762047    
    In response to kingkreeton

I have original 283 brackets powdercoated gloss black. Unused sincr powdercoat. Im in houston area



 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2869

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-14-19 09:24 AM - Post#2762066    
    In response to kingkreeton

I had a lot of my Corvair engine sheet metal powder coated, and most of the cost was in the preparation. I had fully degreased the parts, but they all needed to be sand blasted. If you can provide the parts to the powder coater in bare metal, and tell him that you are in no rush, he can do them when he is doing another black project. This is what I have done when I need only one or two pieces done. Price is very reasonable. A lot of the cost is in set up and clean up, when there is a color change. I usually go with a semi gloss black, and it is his standard black, so most times, I get the part back quickly.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Bad56Sedan 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1041
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
03-14-19 04:16 PM - Post#2762086    
    In response to kingkreeton

Had all my stuff done by the place down in Dickenson off 45.
Brackets, pulleys, inner fender wells, rad support, a frames and more.
Like jalopena says take a hand full of items.
Like junky said, degrease and blast the parts yourself, although they do glass bead the parts but it's just a quick blast.
as cheap as I am, I was not offended when I was told the price.



VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years

[image]http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbavatars/a v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1294
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-14-19 06:43 PM - Post#2762097    
    In response to Jalapeno

  • Jalapeno Said:
Most commercial powder coat companies have a minimum, usually $100-150 around here (North Texas). So you might want to round up a couple dozen more pieces to do, like bumper brackets or suspension parts, it's like getting them done for free.



Ya, that is about $100 more than I want to spend. Unfortunately I don't have any additional parts to have done. The parts came bare metal already so prep work won't be necessary. I've called 3 places that are located near me left 3 voicemails. 0 calls back so far. Just may be a sign for me to paint them and if I want to get it done later do it another time. I'm a pretty big fan of customer service so when a company doesn't offer it upon first impression, I usually move on.

Thanks for everyone's feedback.



Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
SS540 
Contributor
Posts: 701
SS540
Loc: Down in Texas
Reg: 03-29-03
03-15-19 05:51 AM - Post#2762122    
    In response to kingkreeton

Have you tried Allied Powder Coat? They did the 59 frame for $550 and have done many soda machine parts for me. But, they do have a minimum charge.

Wayne & Sherri Scott
59 Biscuit LS3 Restomod


 
rrausch 
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13966
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
03-15-19 07:20 AM - Post#2762131    
    In response to SS540

Also beware there are bad powder-coaters out there. I'm working on a historical house that is being rebuilt. It was built before WW2 in So. Cal. and was built with the old steel casement windows. The owner wanted to add an addition and hired me to build 23 casement windows in the same style. We bought several tons of old steel windows and I started cutting them apart and welding them into the configurations the owner wanted. At the end we had 54 steel casement windows and the owner had them alllll hauled off to the powder coating place.

They came back a beautiful gray color. And if you so much as touched a screwdriver to them the powder coating chipped. Withing several days almost every window had been badly chipped in multiple places before they had even been installed. You could tap the windows with just about anything and the coating would chip. So off they went to a second powder coating place and the 2nd place did a great job.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2869

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-15-19 07:57 AM - Post#2762136    
    In response to rrausch

There are two different type of powder coats. One will chip, and the other, you can beat it with a hammer, and only dent the metal. This is why it is important to ask questions first, not after the job is done.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
rrausch 
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13966
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
03-15-19 05:29 PM - Post#2762167    
    In response to junky

What would the value be to a powder coat that chipped?

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2869

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-15-19 07:41 PM - Post#2762180    
    In response to rrausch

  • rrausch Said:
What would the value be to a powder coat that chipped?



It has no value to me, but there must be some applications, where it is desired.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
gofastwclass 
Contributor
Posts: 998

Loc: In the garage
Reg: 08-19-14
03-15-19 08:05 PM - Post#2762187    
    In response to rrausch

I'm no expert on this but I don't think chipping would be a desired finish as much as a by product of two potential things: 1. poor surface prep and / or 2. poor choice of product for the desired application.

The times I've talked to or worked with people getting things powder coated the guy always wanted to know what the part was or did. It wasn't until a friend started buying powder directly from the manufacturer that we understood why. There are many types of powders available depending on desired surface finish, chemical or UV resistance, etc.

A bit of quick reading explains some of the differences. Types of Powders

1961 Impala mild custom build

Gofastwclass on YouTube

Why buy when you can build it better?


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1294
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-16-19 06:01 AM - Post#2762210    
    In response to junky

I've pretty much decided to just rattle can these parts. They are brand new bare metal A/C and Alternator brackets made by Alan Grove Components.

I've never painted any engine components before. Any recommendations on spray paint brands? Is high temp paint necessary? How many coats would you recommend?


Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
gcrkfrd 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 43
gcrkfrd
Age: 72
Loc: Neosho, MO.
Reg: 04-01-18
03-16-19 08:07 AM - Post#2762221    
    In response to kingkreeton

try a can of that vht ceramic engine paint, it surprised me how tough it is.



 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2869

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-16-19 10:10 AM - Post#2762231    
    In response to kingkreeton

From memory, some of the brackets were painted engine color (orange) and others were painted black. Do your research before painting, so you get the colors correct.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Tri5man 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3736
Tri5man
Loc: Possums Crotch, KY
Reg: 06-26-07
03-16-19 11:07 AM - Post#2762234    
    In response to junky

I've always painted Alan Grove A/C brackets black just like the originals.



 
Stittville Ed 
Contributor
Posts: 156

Reg: 01-10-16
03-16-19 01:53 PM - Post#2762243    
    In response to kingkreeton

Just make sure everything is very clean.

Your new parts might need just a wipe down with a solvent.




 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 743
ragtp66
Reg: 12-09-07
03-16-19 02:21 PM - Post#2762247    
    In response to kingkreeton

I use a place called CPC here they are literally less then a five minute drive from my house. He will sandblast and powdercoat a bare frame for $300 any color. They do wheels for $50/single color. Control arms, springs, crossmembers are usually $25 each. http://www.cpcpowdercoating.com/ Granted you would have to pay shipping both ways but if you have a box full of small stuff it would probably be well worth it.

Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
MrImpalaMan 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 347
MrImpalaMan
Age: 53
Loc: Jefferson City Mo
Reg: 10-16-12
03-17-19 04:59 AM - Post#2762280    
    In response to kingkreeton

I used Krylon Satin on my engine brackets. I followed the directions on the can exactly. Turned out nice.

Paul
1964 Impala SS 327 4 speed


 
gofastwclass 
Contributor
Posts: 998

Loc: In the garage
Reg: 08-19-14
03-17-19 06:03 AM - Post#2762284    
    In response to kingkreeton

I prefer Rust-Oleum automotive spray paint for a durable finish on small jobs where I'm not using true 2K paint. Their paint covers very well, lays out smooth and looks great when applied properly.

The stuff takes a very long time to dry so read the instructions and plan for that. The up side is the finish has high durability like 2K automotive paint.


1961 Impala mild custom build

Gofastwclass on YouTube

Why buy when you can build it better?


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1294
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-17-19 06:14 AM - Post#2762286    
    In response to gofastwclass

  • gofastwclass Said:
I prefer Rust-Oleum automotive spray paint for a durable finish on small jobs where I'm not using true 2K paint. Their paint covers very well, lays out smooth and looks great when applied properly.

The stuff takes a very long time to dry so read the instructions and plan for that. The up side is the finish has high durability like 2K automotive paint.




So I don't need to worry about getting the high-temp stuff? Thanks

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
gofastwclass 
Contributor
Posts: 998

Loc: In the garage
Reg: 08-19-14
03-17-19 07:06 PM - Post#2762328    
    In response to kingkreeton

I've had good luck with it on everything I've tried including brackets mounted directly to the engine block. The key like anything is prep, following the instructions and application. Keep in mind it dries SLOW - like hours slow on a warm day in the sun so allow for that.


1961 Impala mild custom build

Gofastwclass on YouTube

Why buy when you can build it better?


 
shoeboxpaul 
Poster
Posts: 18
shoeboxpaul
Age: 70
Loc: New Freedom, PA
Reg: 08-15-16
03-18-19 12:52 PM - Post#2762391    
    In response to kingkreeton

Powder paint is only as good as the surface being coated. I know you are not considering a casting but, keep in mind that used castings are porous and can hold oil, even after blasting, cleaning, baking, re-cleaning and a soak in a phosphate solution and/or a rust inhibitor. The surface has to be blasted with aluminum oxide or anything that will give tooth, something glass bead does not. I use polyester TGIC powders and they are the most common, and most durable. I have never had an issue with it chipping when prep and baking temps are done properly. The painting and the baking are the easiest parts of the entire process. Preparation of surface is critical if you want the paint to last. Harley-Davidson motorcycles are powder coated - tanks, fenders, frames, brackets, etc. - and it is tough as nails. Of course, this is new metal and I am trying to point out that used parts take more preparation. Sounds like the casement window frames in this thread were done by a fly-by-night outfit. The name of the company should be posted so no one else gets stung.
Personally, I love powder paint better than plating or painting. I can clean a small part, blast it, bake it and put the part in use as soon as it cools to touch. Paint has to dry/cure. Zinc is sacrificial, chrome eventually gives up and finding anyone that does cadmium plating usually involves shipping. Arsenic is used in the cad plating process. Arsenic and the EPA do not mix. If you need cad plating done, Google Delta Specialty Coatings, Houston, TX and give them a call. here is a link:

http://deltaspecialtycoat ings.com/capabilities.php



Edited by shoeboxpaul on 03-18-19 12:56 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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