Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
American Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power Windows
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy

Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: Parking Brake Switch Wiring        (Topic#355507)
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1306
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-05-19 02:51 PM - Post#2761383    

So I just replaced my dash harness and my parking brake indicator is not working. I thought I had it wired the same way as before I removed it but maybe not. The two wires are tan and green. I know the green is positive and tan is negative. Can you please tell me which wire goes where on the switch? In other words, which wire goes on the terminal closest to the firewall?

1964 Impala

Thanks

Shane

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2928

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-05-19 08:49 PM - Post#2761413    
    In response to kingkreeton

On my 1962, the fuse block is marked brake, and that is where the light gets its power from. The wire goes from the fuse block to the switch, and from the switch to the light socket. The bulb is a special flashing bulb, and from memory, it is a 257 bulb. About $3.00 at your local auto parts store. The first thing that I would do, is to verify that the bulb in the socket is good. If it is, then it will be either a wiring problem or the switch itself. I had to rebuild the switch in my 1962 when I found it to be intermittent in the contacts.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1308

Age: 58
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-05-19 11:13 PM - Post#2761419    
    In response to kingkreeton

It doesn't matter which one you use it's just a on/off switch. It just cuts the juice off it doesn't care which one you use.


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2928

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-06-19 09:25 AM - Post#2761446    
    In response to Andy4639

  • Andy4639 Said:
It doesn't matter which one you use it's just a on/off switch. It just cuts the juice off it doesn't care which one you use.



It has to be a terminal that is only live when the ignition is in the on position, otherwise, the light will be illuminated as soon as he applies the parking brake, whether the ignition is on or off.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1306
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-06-19 02:44 PM - Post#2761466    
    In response to junky

Bulb is new, socket and wiring is new. I tested the wire and the green wire hot with ignition. The tan wire is supposed to be the negative and that tan wire what runs to the socket. I'm assuming the tan side of the switch is grounded through the parking brake assembly. That is what makes me think the switch has to be wired a certain way.

The switch is very old and I would like to rebuild it. Any idea where I can get a rebuild kit and do you remember how the switch opens up so I don't break anything?

As always, thanks for the assistance.



Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2928

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-06-19 06:52 PM - Post#2761483    
    In response to kingkreeton

Don't know how much help that I can be to you, since I am familiar with the 1962, not the 1964. On the 1962, the wire goes from the fuse block to the switch, and from the switch to the bulb socket. When the parking brake pedal is depressed, it allows the plunger to move outboard, and that completes the circuit to the bulb. The bulb housing is grounded to the speedometer cluster metal housing. Looking at the 1964 accessory instruction manual, it appears that the accessory parking brake signal works the same. All that I can assume is that you have the parking brake light built into the wire harness, and that it is part of the features of your model. I suggest your checking the service manual for the wiring diagram. There might be a jumper wire that you are missing. Post some pictures of the terminal ends and that might help to clear up the mystery.
I rebuilt my switch using a NOS switch from another car that I had in my parts stash. Looking at the accessory manual, your switch looks similar to mine in function. I will have to look to see if I have another switch that you could use for parts.

This is the switch that I used for its parts.



Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1308

Age: 58
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
03-06-19 09:10 PM - Post#2761502    
    In response to junky

As I stated it's just a on/off switch it doesn't care which wire is on which terminal. It breaks the circuit that's all and the light is either on are off.
It also connected to the master cylinder also so when it malfunction's it will light up. At least my 64 is. That's how the factory did it. It grounds out and comes on no matter what.
  • Quote:
I know the green is positive and tan is negative. Can you please tell me which wire goes where on the switch? In other words, which wire goes on the terminal closest to the firewall?



I'm assuming he is using the right wires as he stated and they will work as described.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


Edited by Andy4639 on 03-06-19 09:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2928

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-06-19 09:33 PM - Post#2761508    
    In response to Andy4639

I had a '64, back in 1964, and I don't remember it having a brake failure lighting system. I believe that came later on, when GM started using dual master cylinders across all the lines. I do remember that Cadillac was the first GM car to have a dual master cylinder, in 1962. I don't believe that it had a warning block switch.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1306
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-07-19 04:50 PM - Post#2761556    
    In response to Andy4639

I gotta agree with Junky. The factory wiring did not have it going to the master cylinder. That had to be a conversion done later. I may do that conversion as well once I figure this switch issue out.

I'm gonna open the switch up and see if I fix it. NOS switches are selling on Flea-Bay for $50-$80. Worse case, I'll fork out the cash if I break the switch when trying to repair it.

Thanks to both of you for the assistance.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7070
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
03-08-19 03:42 AM - Post#2761579    
    In response to kingkreeton

The brake light switch works the same way, any way to fit one in the pb bracket, would not be correct but would work.

63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1306
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-08-19 05:10 AM - Post#2761581    
    In response to DonSSDD

I'm sorry, but I am not understanding what you are saying. "pb"?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7070
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
03-08-19 02:16 PM - Post#2761606    
    In response to kingkreeton

Parking Brake

63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1306
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-09-19 06:30 PM - Post#2761681    
    In response to kingkreeton

Well I confirmed my hunch that my issue is either the switch or the switch ground. I wired a single spade connector on a wire and inserted it into the tan wire plug. I grounded the other side of the wire and sure enough, the parking brake indicator lit up.

I have another switch coming soon and I should be able to get this issue solved pretty soon. I'm still debating on wiring the master cylinder wire into the tan wire so that both will light up the indicator.

Just thought I would post the update of my test result.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 03-09-19 06:33 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2928

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-10-19 06:23 AM - Post#2761704    
    In response to kingkreeton

What would you connect the tan wire to? 1964 was a single master cylinder, and there is no brake pressure switch from the factory.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1178
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
03-10-19 08:01 AM - Post#2761710    
    In response to junky

Also, I believe the brake 'failure' light gets its 'signal' from the distribution box (not the master cylinder) on the later dual master cylinder systems. The light would illuminate when pressure was lost on one 'half' of the system. The sensor was in the distribution box.

When adding dual master cylinder with drum brakes there are basically two choices. Plumb the brake lines separately; one to the front brakes, one to the rear (my choice because there are no parts to fail). Or, plumb the lines to a distribution box that then separates the lines (front/rear).

Pete



 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1306
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
03-10-19 08:08 AM - Post#2761712    
    In response to junky

Sorry, I thought I had mentioned it previously but after reviewing my post, I had not. I have a dual master cylinder with front disk brakes.

IMG_0008

I was thinking I could splice the black wire on the switch there into the tan wire then, then both switches would light up the indicator on the dash? I have never used or tested that brake switch yet. Any ideas on how to test it prior to me splicing it?

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 03-10-19 08:10 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2928

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
03-10-19 08:37 AM - Post#2761719    
    In response to kingkreeton

the brake failure switch is centered in the middle of the distribution block, and upon failure, it moves off center, and grounds, providing a failure indication. You will also feel the failure in the brake pedal, and your body will react at the same time the light illuminates. Catastrophic brake line failures are not that common on collector cars, since they are usually better maintained. The reason for dual master cylinders came about because of poor maintenance of the single master cylinder systems. Like any part of a machine, it is only as good as its maintenance. I believe that today, poor maintenance is more prevalent than ever before.
This week, I learned from a friend that his grand daughter drove 45 miles with the parking brake partially on. Resulted in burned out brakes, and very worn tires, before a tire blew out. Can't understand how she managed not to see the brake light on the dash. She is a college graduate, but not very cognizant of things mechanical!

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

413 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.087 seconds.   Total Queries: 16   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 01:43 AM
Top