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Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: It's alive!        (Topic#355443)
HYPR 
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 10753
HYPR
Age: 67
Loc: Shaking and Burning!
Reg: 07-19-01
03-02-19 07:48 AM - Post#2761106    

Well after correcting most of the PO fuel line errors and replacing the filter and cheapass off shore non functioning fuel pump with a Mr Gasket one the truck fired right up.
My next project besides getting the rear brakes to function correctly is to remove the interior fuel tank completely. Then go through the Painless wiring harness he installed in a sloppy manner and correct any improper connections.
Then the process of replacing any and all of the worn components.
I want to test out the AC and possibly install a 134 conversion kit in it. I have heard that 134 may deteriorate the old compressor though.
Has anyone done this conversion and run it for sometime with results?
Any advice for parts vendors would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2048
beagrizzly
Age: 69
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
03-04-19 08:53 AM - Post#2761263    
    In response to HYPR

I have done a lot of conversions to 134. There are some things you need to be aware of.

The compressor, if it is good shape should do the job, although it is operating at higher pressures. On this old a vehicle, you will probably be changing parts one at a time. As the system is all operating at higher pressures, the old tired evaporator will probably go first. Then the old tired condenser.

(I converted a 79 Cutlass for a guy. He wanted it changed on the cheap. His compressor was out to start with, so that was changed. That was all he wanted me to do. Then the chain reaction started up. Next was the evap, then the condenser, then lines started leaking inside. Bubbles would form, then burst. He wanted me to do all of it for free, since I had just "rebuilt" his system. It got ugly when I pointed out that I did it a piece at a time, at HIS request.)

There are now 134 specific orifice tubes, and even evaporator cores available. While the 12 tubes and cores will work, the newer ones are more efficient at cooling the vehicle.

The lines on a 12 unit will seep 134. If you can have a shop build your lines with 134 compatible hose, you will be better off. O-rings are another issue. ALL o-rings need to be changed to either blue, or green 134 compatible o-rings.

There are also 134 condenser units.

You will need to change the dryer, and compressor oil. (PAG). POE is compatible with either 12, or 134.

Of course, a complete system flush is mandatory. You may find a lot of grey gunk in your system. This is aluminum. You have wear on your compressor. They call this "black death" in an AC system. It will kill ANY new compressor you install.

I have cobbled systems together with old junk parts that I had lying around, and they cooled to 34 degrees. I have also installed ALL new components, and could NOT get it down below 45. You never know.

Good luck

Griff

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
HYPR 
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 10753
HYPR
Age: 67
Loc: Shaking and Burning!
Reg: 07-19-01
03-04-19 04:08 PM - Post#2761305    
    In response to beagrizzly

Thanks Griff,
Now I understand. I haven't checked to see if it even works yet. I wanted to keep it as original as possible until I decide to go all out and just drop in a 5.3L and 6L80 which at that time it really won't matter. Oh well. I just discovered the truck also has a Doug Nash DNE2 OD in it that the control module switch has been removed and the control module has been disconnected under the hood and at the OD so an this point I don't know if I have an OD or just a large weight at the end of my TH400.
Can't find the control module for those old units and US Gear closed up that division back in 2014.
Bob


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!


 
HYPR 
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 10753
HYPR
Age: 67
Loc: Shaking and Burning!
Reg: 07-19-01
03-10-19 05:33 PM - Post#2761770    
    In response to HYPR

The more I work on this truck the more unique parts I find. For example the wheel lugs. They are 9/16-18 which are fairly easy to come by. However when using the 2000-2008 factory Superior 8 lug wheels which require the external threads it is an entirely different story. The metric thread version are available everywhere sold individually at $1.99 each. The 9/16-18 are mostly only available by special ordering packs of 10 for anywhere from $37.99 to $52.00! Now mind you the truck only has 32 total studs so if you need a full set you must order 4 packs in order to have enough so $152 for Wheel lugs! Thank God I only need 2. However all but one O'Reilly's would order them from another store without tacking on an extra $10.74 for each lug bringing the each price of $4.99 to $15.73!

Next comes the rubber brake lines, again the one for this truck, '72 C20 Longbed 4x2 Camper Special with BBC and Auxiliary fuel tanks uses a special hose. There are 3 available and this one which is 13.125" is not available at all and the next one is 18.125" long is special order which I found at Napa.
Even the front lines which Napa had were about .0625" shorter and the collars were also off by almost the same amount which required me to grind the mounting post thinner to facilitate installing the securing clip. Thank God I will be installing drop spindles because at full extension of the suspension the brake lines are tight with no flex available. YIKES!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!


 
HYPR 
"16th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 10753
HYPR
Age: 67
Loc: Shaking and Burning!
Reg: 07-19-01
03-17-19 12:21 PM - Post#2762306    
    In response to HYPR

I found the lugs and Napa had the brake flex hoses.
Installed it all and bled the brakes and adjusted the rear drums. Brakes are working good now.
Lowering the rear is going to be a bit of a challenge since it is a spring over axle lowering blocks won't work. So since I am not doing any heavy towing so I am going to start by removing the load leveling helper springs beginning with the short one which is 1" thick plus the lowering shackles (2.5") this will give me a 3.5" drop.
Regarding the grill I am going to back date it to a 1970 grill without logo and paint the grill insert black. I will install LED driving lights where the 1970 turn signals go.
Bob

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is by chance, to live as one is by choice!
Preserving the Redneck tradition one day at a time!


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
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