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Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: Pinion seal nut        (Topic#355328)
wiz62impala 
Poster
Posts: 94

Reg: 08-12-17
02-20-19 06:59 PM - Post#2760386    

Hi

I’m about to work on replacing my pinion seal on my 62 impala and plan to follow the shop manual instructions.

In the manual, it states to discard the pinion nut and replace with a new one when replacing the seal.

Is that necessary? If I add loctite, will it help?

Thanks


1962 Chevy Impala Hardtop 2DR
327 V8, 4 Speed Muncie M21

1980 Cadillac Coupe Deville


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3103

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
02-20-19 09:21 PM - Post#2760392    
    In response to wiz62impala

When I did mine last winter, I reused the nut after replacing the seal. I marked the shaft, nut, flange,and housing at 12 o'clock, and I counted the number of turns to off. When I put it back on, I put the nut back to where it originally was, and added between 1/16 and 1/8 additional turn on the nut. Measurement was approximate. I have always done it that way in the past. Only thing is that I did mine on a 4 post lift, with the brakes locked, so the diff didn't turn at all. That is also why I marked the case shaft, nut, and the flange all at 12 o'clock

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
YOUNG57 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1139

Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 12-06-10
02-20-19 10:27 PM - Post#2760396    
    In response to junky

I replaced my pinion seal a few years back and re-used the nut and crush sleeve (not according to Hoyle). I didn’t mark or count turns. I just re-tightened the nut and loaded the opposing roller bearings until I got a little preload on them.

I’ve put a lot of high speed miles on it since with no noise or leaks.




 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2588
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
02-20-19 10:51 PM - Post#2760397    
    In response to wiz62impala

In 40 years of having 57 to 63 rear ends rebuild or new seals replaced by mechanic friends who know how to do them, the pinion nuts were never replaced unless the pinion nuts were damaged.
Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
wiz62impala 
Poster
Posts: 94

Reg: 08-12-17
02-21-19 04:27 AM - Post#2760400    
    In response to pvs409

Thanks everyone for the feedback!

1962 Chevy Impala Hardtop 2DR
327 V8, 4 Speed Muncie M21

1980 Cadillac Coupe Deville


 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8710

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
02-21-19 07:00 AM - Post#2760406    
    In response to wiz62impala

I also have been rebuilding these rearends (and other rearends) for over 50yrs, and have maybe replaced 2 nuts. The old nuts have always pulled up just fine, even when installing a new crush sleeve.



 
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2059
beagrizzly
Age: 69
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
02-21-19 10:40 AM - Post#2760419    
    In response to wiz62impala

I think the shop manual is concerned about the plastic lock internal on the nut. If I was a dealer, concerned with warranty comebacks, I'd replace it every time.

That said, I agree with DZ. Unless you see physical damage, or the threads have been pulled, re-use it.

I always replace my crush sleeve. I'm just finicky about those.

DZ has probably done more differential work than anyone I know. He has several stickys on the subject. Might be worth reading them.

Griff

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
wiz62impala 
Poster
Posts: 94

Reg: 08-12-17
03-09-19 05:14 PM - Post#2761671    
    In response to beagrizzly

Thanks for the info. One more question. If I struggle to get the pinion nut loosened up, Am I able to loosen the nut slightly using an impact gun? I do have the yoke holder but worried about having enough space for leverage under the car since I plan to fix in my own.. I will follow all other steps but want to know if the impact gun to break loose the nut will be an issue.


If it will be I will just grab a buddy to help me.

Thanks

1962 Chevy Impala Hardtop 2DR
327 V8, 4 Speed Muncie M21

1980 Cadillac Coupe Deville


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1822

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
03-09-19 06:16 PM - Post#2761679    
    In response to wiz62impala

ok to use a gun for removal.



 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8710

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
03-09-19 06:19 PM - Post#2761680    
    In response to wiz62impala

You can use a GIANT pipe wrench to hold the pinion yoke. MANY years ago, when I was working on cars outside, in the gravel driveway, that's what I used and it worked great every time.
You can also slip a length of steel pipe over the handle of the big pipe wrench for added leverage.



 
Bubpletop62 
Poster
Posts: 94

Loc: Bakersfield, CA
Reg: 03-21-06
03-10-19 08:49 AM - Post#2761721    
    In response to DZAUTO

I used an impact gun to loosen nut and worked perfect! Just use short hits on the trigger. Tighten by hand only. As mentioned, mark everything before starting anything. Also as mentioned, put a good sealer into spline before you put yoke back in. Clean threads with brake cleaner spray, otherwise oil could leak out thru spline. Good luck.
Dennis Bubp

Dennis Bubp
'62 Belair Sports Coupe
drbubp@hotmail.com


Edited by Bubpletop62 on 03-11-19 12:47 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
wiz62impala 
Poster
Posts: 94

Reg: 08-12-17
03-10-19 11:28 AM - Post#2761736    
    In response to Bubpletop62

Hello,
I was planning to put the permatex #2 sealant on the OD of the pinion seal.i didn’t realize that I should add onto the spline as well. Any risk to putting too much? Not really sure how much to add
Thanks

1962 Chevy Impala Hardtop 2DR
327 V8, 4 Speed Muncie M21

1980 Cadillac Coupe Deville


 
Bubpletop62 
Poster
Posts: 94

Loc: Bakersfield, CA
Reg: 03-21-06
03-10-19 02:20 PM - Post#2761753    
    In response to wiz62impala

I put about 1/4” bead around inside spline about 1” from end in a circle. Permatex is great. I would let permatex set for a few days before adding oil. I don’t think you can add too much. Just a good liberal bead. Just don’t ‘gob’ in a tube full. We had no leaks. BTW, yes, DZauto knows his stuff. When he gives advice, I listen!
Dennis Bubp

Dennis Bubp
'62 Belair Sports Coupe
drbubp@hotmail.com


Edited by Bubpletop62 on 03-10-19 02:28 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
wiz62impala 
Poster
Posts: 94

Reg: 08-12-17
03-10-19 06:00 PM - Post#2761772    
    In response to Bubpletop62

This is helpful. I will do that! Thanks everyone for your advice

1962 Chevy Impala Hardtop 2DR
327 V8, 4 Speed Muncie M21

1980 Cadillac Coupe Deville


 
SBPage1 
Poster
Posts: 1

Loc: Nashville TN
Reg: 03-21-19
08-27-19 01:40 PM - Post#2774196    
    In response to wiz62impala

This is perfect timing for me to read this post. I'm replacing my rear pinion seal on a 1961 C30 Apache 1 Ton w/duallies. The pinion flange nut is not coming off. Cotter pin is removed, penetrating oil used and now I'm using an impact that won't budge it. Not doing this on a lift and both wheels are secure to the ground. Just checking to make sure that this nut should come off counter clockwise, correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated.



 
Bubpletop62 
Poster
Posts: 94

Loc: Bakersfield, CA
Reg: 03-21-06
09-10-19 01:01 PM - Post#2775265    
    In response to SBPage1

Yep, you are going in the correct direction. You may have to hold the impact gun a little longer. Let us know how you do. This is all good information for everyone.
Dennis Bubp

Dennis Bubp
'62 Belair Sports Coupe
drbubp@hotmail.com


 
Verne_Frantz 
61-64 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 5622
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
09-10-19 07:48 PM - Post#2775298    
    In response to Bubpletop62

I also use an impact gun to tighten the nut back in place. I count the exposed threads before I remove it and mark it. Then just go slow (a couple blips at a time) once the thread count gets close and stop when my pre-made marks just line up (plus a nudge). It's worked fine that way the few times I've done it.

Verne



 
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