Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
American Auto Wire Classic Industries
Danchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomJoin the Community today
Ecklers AutoMotiveNu-Relics Power Windows

Ecklers AutoMotive
 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: complete electrical shut down        (Topic#355156)
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-08-19 03:48 PM - Post#2759413    

Something very strange just happened to my '63 Impala. I'm not much of an electrician so some help is solicited.

I'll explain (sorry for the long post):

I have been having some problems with the car not holding a charge. After about 2 days there was not enough juice to start the car. All last summer I simply disconnected the battery every time I parked the car in the garage. It would always start right up and ran great.

About 2 months ago I had the car in the shop for some body work. The folks had trouble starting the car, checked the battery, and found it unable to hold a charge. A new battery was installed (after they checked the alternator and voltage regulator). When I got the car back, everything was great. It sat once for almost two weeks one time and it started immediately. Hurray.

Last week, the car would not crank after sitting about 4 days. I began checking for some obvious wiring defects and discovered an interesting configuration. There were two (approx 12 gauge) wires coming from the positive battery clamp (along with the 2 gauge wire to the starter). One went into the harness and appeared to be connected to the voltage regulator. The other looked like it was external to the harness but was wrapped (using electrical tape) to the harness. I tried to follow it and it appeared to go thru the fire wall with the harness. But I'm not at all confident that is correct. And I could not track it inside the car.

The insulation on one of those wires was worn down to the copper wire and the copper wire was almost completely corroded through (only a strand or two intact). The other was fine. I looked up the wiring diagram and it shows only one 12 gauge wire from the positive clamp and it goes to the voltage regulator.

To re-state. All this time the car ran great, no electrical problems except for the battery drain and/or bad battery, which only impacted starting.

I bought a new battery cable w/one 12 gauge wire coming from it. I installed today and I connected both the old 12 gauge wires to that one. Jumped the car; started immediately. Hurray (again short lived).

I drove the car for about an hour to charge the battery. Car drove/ran great. Got home pulled into the garage and began a few checks. Turned on the headlights; ok. Hit the dimmer switch to turn on the high beams and the car immediately stopped running and everything went dark. No electricity running to anything. Even the dash warning lights would not illuminate with the ignition switch 'on'. Jumped the car and absolutely NOTHING.

What in the world did I do? What would fail and cause this? It's like some complete electrical system circuit breaker tripped (or fuse blew). Is there such a component?

Thanks and I again apologize for the long post.

Pete



 
Ecklers AutoMotive
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3124

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
02-08-19 04:04 PM - Post#2759415    
    In response to japete92

I believe that the first mistake was to connect the 2 old 12 gauge wires to the new cable. I believe that there is a fusible link located in your electrical system, and that you have blown that link, just not certain where. The good news, is that the link did what it is supposed to do, protect the electrical system. Next thing that I would do, is to disconnect the headlight foot switch from the system, because it sounds like there is a short in the switch. If I am correct about the short in the switch, that might account for the battery going dead over time.
Thinking about these 2 extra 12 gauge wires, it might be that someone had added them to fix a previous issue, or if a power seat or power windows were added to the car after it left the factory, they would have needed to add a 12 gauge wire to power them.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


Edited by junky on 02-08-19 04:09 PM. Reason for edit: add to the post

 
Tri5man 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3788
Tri5man
Loc: Possums Crotch, KY
Reg: 06-26-07
02-08-19 04:20 PM - Post#2759416    
    In response to junky

The only time I've ever had a complete electrical shutdown was due to a poor connection in the firewall connectors.

Gary



 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-08-19 04:49 PM - Post#2759418    
    In response to junky

  • junky Said:
I believe that the first mistake was to connect the 2 old 12 gauge wires to the new cable. I believe that there is a fusible link located in your electrical system, and that you have blown that link, just not certain where. The good news, is that the link did what it is supposed to do, protect the electrical system. Next thing that I would do, is to disconnect the headlight foot switch from the system, because it sounds like there is a short in the switch. If I am correct about the short in the switch, that might account for the battery going dead over time.
Thinking about these 2 extra 12 gauge wires, it might be that someone had added them to fix a previous issue, or if a power seat or power windows were added to the car after it left the factory, they would have needed to add a 12 gauge wire to power them.




Junky,

Yes a previous owner did add power seat. That makes some sense for the extra wire.

I looked on the wiring diagram from the shop manual and could not find the fusible link. But I'm surely not proficient at reading electrical diagrams. I did a search, and some look like sections of wire. Is it the little section of approx 12 gauge wire on the battery cable, coming off the battery clamp? Is there some other location in the system where a fusible link would work?

I plan on attacking the dimmer switch.

Thanks.

Pete







 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-08-19 04:51 PM - Post#2759419    
    In response to Tri5man

  • Tri5man Said:
The only time I've ever had a complete electrical shutdown was due to a poor connection in the firewall connectors.

Gary




Thanks Gary; I'll look into that.

Pete



 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2599
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
02-08-19 05:13 PM - Post#2759421    
    In response to japete92

Pete is your car a convertible or have power windows.

You have power seat(you said).

All original 61 to 64 cars with these accessories have a circuit breaker mounted to the metal kick panel on the drivers side behind the kick panel. One side of the wiring from this switch goes to the firewall (yellow wire to the firewall ). The other side is wired to the accessory (power windows, power seat, or convertible top)

All these wires to the firewall and starter are reproduced by American Autowire.

All the cars with these accessories had a factory large red wire from the firewall plug on the drivers side of the firewall to the starter(to power the items)
I have pictures of the switch in the kick panel.

Also do you have a amp gauge (aftermarket)?
Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
02-08-19 05:59 PM - Post#2759430    
    In response to japete92

I believe the factory 10 gauge wire with a fusible link went from the horn relay to your battery. It would have routed along with your passenger side headlight wires along the radiator core support.

Your entire cars power runs from through that wire from horn relay to battery. That is why the fusible link was installed there.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 02-08-19 06:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-08-19 06:01 PM - Post#2759431    
    In response to pvs409

  • pvs409 Said:
Pete is your car a convertible or have power windows.

You have power seat(you said).

All original 61 to 64 cars with these accessories have a circuit breaker mounted to the metal kick panel on the drivers side behind the kick panel. One side of the wiring from this switch goes to the firewall (yellow wire to the firewall ). The other side is wired to the accessory (power windows, power seat, or convertible top)

All these wires to the firewall and starter are reproduced by American Autowire.

All the cars with these accessories had a factory large red wire from the firewall plug on the drivers side of the firewall to the starter(to power the items)
I have pictures of the switch in the kick panel.

Also do you have a amp gauge (aftermarket)?
Paul



Paul,

The car is a convertible, no power windows. The power seat was added by some owner some time. It is not factory.

Does that circuit breaker cut off all power to everything? Is it obvious how to reset it?

Pics would be helpful.

I do not have an amp gauge.

Thanks.

Pete




Edited by japete92 on 02-08-19 06:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-08-19 06:11 PM - Post#2759434    
    In response to kingkreeton

  • kingkreeton Said:
I believe the factory 10 gauge wire with a fusible link went from the horn relay to your battery. It would have routed along with your passenger side headlight wires along the radiator core support.

Your entire cars power runs from through the horn relay.



Thanks.

What does it look like? Fuses and circuit breakers are rated for a particular amperage. Same for this fusible link?

Thanks.

Pete



 
acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11287
acardon
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
02-08-19 06:17 PM - Post#2759436    
    In response to japete92

The power top circuit breaker will only affect the top, not all electrical power.
  • Quote:
I bought a new battery cable w/one 12 gauge wire coming from it.


Did you get a 63 battery cable or a cable with a pigtail? I suspect the new cable has a fusible link that was too small for the load and it has blown. Does the horn blow? Check for voltage at the horn relay red wire with the engine off.

Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-08-19 06:50 PM - Post#2759438    
    In response to acardon

  • acardon Said:
The power top circuit breaker will only affect the top, not all electrical power.
  • Quote:
I bought a new battery cable w/one 12 gauge wire coming from it.


Did you get a 63 battery cable or a cable with a pigtail? I suspect the new cable has a fusible link that was too small for the load and it has blown. Does the horn blow? Check for voltage at the horn relay red wire with the engine off.



I bought a after market cable from auto zone

This one:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-an d-ch...

I'll check the horn specifically tomorrow. But, nothing was working. There was no evidence of any juice running anywhere. As for checking the voltage with engine not running; no problem because engine won't run nor crank, nor start. The engine was running when everything (including the engine) shut down.

Thanks

Pete



 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3124

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
02-08-19 07:51 PM - Post#2759442    
    In response to japete92

Being that it is a convertible, the power wire from the red power lead should have already been on the engine side of the firewall, and the yellow wire to the circuit breaker in the left kick panel should have also been installed. There is a yellow wire that goes to the rear of the car behind the rear seat back, where the power top motor/pump assembly is located.
Circuit breakers don't usually go bad, and they are automatic reset items in car applications.
I am not that familiar with full size Chevrolet wiring, so I can't say exactly where, or if there is a fusible link. I did look in the 1961 service manual, and it appears that the red wire from the battery goes to the voltage regulator, and from there it goes to the fuse block. This is where the ignition switch gets its power from. I would take the cover off of the voltage regulator, and see if anything in there appears to be burned. Also, sometimes, a fuse is added to the voltage regulator to protect it, and that fuse might have blown. See picture.

If my thoughts about the problem being located in the headlight dimmer switch on the floor, and this caused the problem, it might have damaged your headlight switch, however, I doubt this, since the headlight switch is protected by an internal circuit breaker.


Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11287
acardon
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
02-08-19 09:58 PM - Post#2759449    
    In response to japete92

Here is a diagram of the 63. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/57... .... The wire from the battery goes to the horn relay which is a tie point for the charging system and the internal power. If the wire on the battery pigtail to the horn relay is good, the horn should blow, even if nothing else works. If the horn doesn't blow, check your connection to the battery cable pigtail.
Power tops, seats, windows all have their own circuit breakers or fuses and will not keep the remainder of the car from functioning. See "auxiliary circuit breaker" in diagram.

Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


 
kingkreeton 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1325
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
02-09-19 06:01 AM - Post#2759460    
    In response to japete92

  • japete92 Said:
  • kingkreeton Said:
I believe the factory 10 gauge wire with a fusible link went from the horn relay to your battery. It would have routed along with your passenger side headlight wires along the radiator core support.

Your entire cars power runs from through the horn relay.



Thanks.

What does it look like? Fuses and circuit breakers are rated for a particular amperage. Same for this fusible link?

Thanks.

Pete



Good question. Fusible links are a smaller wire designed to burn up, or fail, when a short is present. You always choose one size smaller. For example, if you are using a 10 gauge wire, the fusible link should be 12 gauge. I prefer crimping the wires together with non insulated tin butt connectors, then soldering the connection, then covering with heat shrink. That will be a permanent connection on the most important wire on your car. Fusible links will last for decades as long as you don't have a short to make them fail.

Check this site out, plenty of information here on how to improve our car's electrical system. http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

PM me if you have any questions about MAD Electrical's products. I have used them with great success. With the previous "hot start" and other electrical issues you have had in the past, this may be right up your alley.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 02-09-19 06:04 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7174
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
02-09-19 06:23 AM - Post#2759461    
    In response to kingkreeton

I would guess a bad connection, likely a ground and or the firewall connectors.
Disconnect both firewall connectors and clean them if they show and corrosion, then see if anything works. Try the starter after reconnecting.

Start checking at the battery for 12 volts and work your way back to the firewall. The circuit breaker in the kick panel only runs the power top, windows, and seat, if wired correctly.

The original wiring in these cars only had the fuses in the fuse box and the headlight switch, no other fusible links or fuses or circuit breakers, except the one in the kick panel for those accessories. Someone may have added something but from factory, that's it.

When I have an electrical problem and the car won't roll over, the first thing I do is pull on the headlights. If my headlights are working, then I try the starter. If I have a bad ground, this test will show the bad connection under load, the headlights will go off. There can be enough connection to run the headlights but add the load of the starter, and the weak link shows up.

63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-09-19 11:10 AM - Post#2759473    
    In response to DonSSDD

This reply is to everyone who took the time to respond and offer help.

An update:

This morning I tried the horn. Nothing. Next I disconnected the two wires I had connected to the new battery cable, chose the oldest looking one, and connected it directly to the bolt that tightens the clamp, bypassing the wire provided on the cable. Voila! Juice! Jumped the battery and it immediately started.

I've concluded (as acardon suggested) that the pigtail on the new battery cable was a fusible link and had blown; shutting off power to everything. It was the only fusible link in the circuit which is apparently how GM made it in '63.

I still have to deal with the dimmer switch and the power seat wiring but those can wait until it gets a little warmer.

I do need a new battery cable. The ones sold by American Autowire are 6 gauge (as per the original GM spec). I was hoping to find a 2 gauge (similar to the one I have) without the fusible link; just a 12 gauge wire. I'm using a battery with a lot more cranking amps than OEM (I'm running a '383' sbc). I may be chasing my tail. I suppose I could keep the main power wire (the one that connects to the horn relay) connected directly to the clamp. But not my first choice.


THANKS everyone.

Pete




 
turbo38s10 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1671
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
02-09-19 12:09 PM - Post#2759478    
    In response to japete92

If you are burning up the fusable link I would not run the car without it. There is a reason it is blowing. Either put one back in or use a fuse, you will only burn up something else worse if you don't.

Maybe that second wire that was corroded has a short or your dimmer or headlight switch is bad but there is a problem that needs to be found. Fuses are cheaper wiring harness and cars are not.



 
Stittville Ed 
Contributor
Posts: 168

Reg: 01-10-16
02-09-19 12:14 PM - Post#2759479    
    In response to japete92

Find a Truck Repair shop and the should be able to make you up a cable the size you want with the correct size ends crimped on.



 
Lead sled 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1948
Lead sled
Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
02-09-19 01:21 PM - Post#2759482    
    In response to Stittville Ed

I had a similar problem with my hot rod,NO POWER what so ever after a few hrs of setting. Come to find out,it was a loose ground from battery to engine block...simple fix.

Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe


 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-09-19 02:46 PM - Post#2759490    
    In response to turbo38s10

  • turbo38s10 Said:
If you are burning up the fusable link I would not run the car without it. There is a reason it is blowing. Either put one back in or use a fuse, you will only burn up something else worse if you don't.

Maybe that second wire that was corroded has a short or your dimmer or headlight switch is bad but there is a problem that needs to be found. Fuses are cheaper wiring harness and cars are not.



Thanks. What I did not say was that the discussions about the 'circuit breakers' for some accessories got me thinking about using something like this:

https://www.delcity.net/store/12V-Auto-Reset- Circu...

I just need to figure out what rating is needed. Help is always appreciated.

I also did not state that as the car sits, the power seat does not work. So, that's the other wire. And it's wired incorrectly for my convertible (if I am understanding what folks have said).

I'm going to attack the dimmer switch and the power seat later. I'll leave the power seat disconnected for now, and stay away from using the headlights and dimmer switch.

Thanks for your input.

Pete



 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2599
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
02-13-19 11:08 PM - Post#2759891    
    In response to japete92

Here is the connector mounted to a 62 Impala convertible with power windows and power top.

Also the actual connector is pictured.
Any 61 to 64 Chevy with these 3 Accessories (Power Top, Power Windows & Power Seat) had this connector.

The connector uses factory holes already in the kick panel to mount it with 2 philips screws.
Paul


Attachment: P1010442.JPG (218.75 KB) 13 View(s)


62 Chevy convertible with power windows and Power top. Yellow wire goes to the firewall connected to a red wire under the hood to the starter battery connection


Attachment: P1010446.JPG (208.17 KB) 9 View(s)


The factory connector for kick panel mounting -you must have factory wiring harnesses to connect the accessories


57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2599
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
02-13-19 11:46 PM - Post#2759893    
    In response to pvs409

Here is the red power wire to the starter on 61-62 Chevy.
https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/power-top-ki...

NOTE: the 30 amp self re-setting breaker note
no picture shown...

May be American Autowire sells the 30 amp self re-setting breaker separately??

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2599
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
02-13-19 11:56 PM - Post#2759894    
    In response to pvs409

The same wiring and 30 amp self re-setting circuit breaker for a 1963 Impala from American Autowire.....

https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/power-top-ki...

Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
Stittville Ed 
Contributor
Posts: 168

Reg: 01-10-16
02-14-19 06:25 AM - Post#2759907    
    In response to pvs409

That would be very hard to find on your own.
Great information.



 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-14-19 11:36 AM - Post#2759919    
    In response to pvs409

  • pvs409 Said:
The same wiring and 30 amp self re-setting circuit breaker for a 1963 Impala from American Autowire.....

https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/power-top-ki...

Paul




Paul,

Thanks AGAIN.

Earlier today I came across data that identified the rating for the power seat circuit breaker for '61 Caddy as 30 amps. 30 amps seems to be the answer. I plan to verify the rating from the folks at American Auto Wire, but with this info, I'd be surprised if the answer is not 30 amps.

And, I zoomed in to your pic and unless my eyes are deceiving me, is says its 30 amp, 12 v.

Pete



Edited by japete92 on 02-14-19 12:02 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3124

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
02-14-19 01:33 PM - Post#2759926    
    In response to japete92

The original was made by Cole Hersee, and you can find them on eBay for around $10. Don't have my Cole Hersee parts book handy, but when I find it, I will post the part number.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-20-19 09:31 AM - Post#2760351    
    In response to junky

This reply is general in nature; not to the any particular response.

I bought a custom 2 ga battery cable from:

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/2-g...les-2-awg.h...

I had them add two 12 ga wires; one to replace the wire to the horn relay; and one if I wanted to retain the 'extra' wire that powered the power seats a previous owner added to the car. It was made up the next day and shipped. Wow, great response time. It arrived in two days; impressed with the workmanship. I installed it w/o connecting the wire to the power seats and the car started immediately and ran perfectly. Everything expect the power seats worked.

Yesterday I removed the driver's side kick panel and pulled up the carpet to get a look at the wiring to the convertible top, the power seats, and the dimmer switch.

The wiring for the top looked original and in very good shape. The circuit ( as far as I followed it) is in accordance with the wiring diagram from the '61 shop manual. There is a 40 amp (marked on the breaker) circuit breaker in that circuit. I intend to leave that as is. It always worked, is working, and I'm NOT going to fuss with it.

The wiring for the power seats was not run though the circuit breaker. It was 'added' (not surprisingly) and connected directly to the seat control circuit.

The dimmer switch look original. The wiring looks original and is run as shown in the documentation. I am going to replace the dimmer. I also decide to replace the 'guts' of the headlight switch as a precautionary measure. I bought a dimmer, the connectors to the dimmer, and the headlight switch from:

https://www.americanautowire.com

Part numbers 500042, 500286, 01995096.

As of today, I do not intend to re-wire the power seat. I bought a circuit breaker (American auto wire part 04850166) and will install that in the existing 'extra' 12 ga power line.

I'm waiting on the parts. When installed if everything works, I'm going to declare success (at least for now).

I'll update.

Pete



 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3124

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
02-20-19 09:30 PM - Post#2760393    
    In response to japete92

The existing 40 amp circuit breaker is enough for the seat. Didn't realize that it was a convertible, so you already have the original power wire to the circuit breaker and then to the top. All you need from American Auto Wire is the small jumper wire from the circuit breaker to the seat. It plugs into the seat wire harness 12 gauge wire. It connects to the red wire with the white terminal at the bottom of this picture. It then goes to the relay that is mounted on the seat frame and bracket.
Give them a call back, and see if you can update the order.



Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
pvs409 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2599
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
02-21-19 08:33 AM - Post#2760412    
    In response to junky

Junky is right on the small jumper wire (less than 6 inches long)for the seat to connect to the circuit breaker.
I have one on my 62 Impala Hardtop that has a power seat.

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
japete92 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1248
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
02-21-19 09:48 AM - Post#2760415    
    In response to pvs409

  • pvs409 Said:
Junky is right on the small jumper wire (less than 6 inches long)for the seat to connect to the circuit breaker.
I have one on my 62 Impala Hardtop that has a power seat.



Junky and Paul,

I REALLY appreciate y'alls help. You all offer sage advice.

I'm hesitant to connect the seat to the existing circuit breaker and wiring (as you recommend) because the car's power seat installation was not done as GM would have done it. And, I've not verified exactly how it was done (other than a separate power wire was run directly from the + battery post).

Would not there have to be a wire run from the seat motor to within 6" of the breaker for your recommendation to work? I do not have such a wire. I only have the wiring associated with a power convertible top behind my kick panel.

If I could pull the seat out (20 years ago I would have), I could turn it upside down, assess what I have, and what I need to change. I could re-wire the seat the way GM did. Today I would have to pay someone to do that.

That's a bunch of $ to throw at the topic. Re-using the existing ('wrong') wiring for the seat, but adding another circuit breaker in that line is something I can do. In my very inexperienced mind, that's electrically equivalent to the GM installation. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks

Pete





Edited by japete92 on 02-21-19 09:51 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ecklers AutoMotive
 Page 1 of 2 12
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

801 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.088 seconds.   Total Queries: 17   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 10:52 PM
Top