dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-04-19 09:10 AM - Post#2758973
I'm putting my doors back together after restoration. I am getting ready to buy the window channels and "wing" vent gaskets from National Chevy Assoc. Has anyone used these, or have another recommendation? Thanks,
https://www.nationalchevyassoc.com/1949_1954_2_doo...
https://www.nationalchevyassoc.com/1011
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Lead sled
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1912

Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
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02-04-19 09:29 AM - Post#2758975
In response to dsacton
That's the same product I used on my restoration. they worked just fine . You may have to do some trimming to get a perfect fit. I used them for vent,door,and 1/4 glass.
Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-04-19 01:27 PM - Post#2758999
In response to Lead sled
Thanks! Placing the order now...
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rrausch
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13936

Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
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02-04-19 06:02 PM - Post#2759036
In response to dsacton
I used the same ones from NCA too. In the glass shop, when we bent fuzzy channels, we bent them over the corners of the glass. Just be sure you measure correctly cause once bent they are hard to unbend and re-bend. Also trim the stainless bead using something that cuts right across them at 90 degrees without crimping.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.
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johnwd98
Contributor
Posts: 353

Age: 69
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
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02-05-19 05:48 AM - Post#2759064
In response to dsacton
I used a NCA "kit" too. Universal, cut and bend them yourself channels and seals. I think the best way to bend and fit the channels is to bend them around your glass. Get it right the first time. If I remember right on my Fleetline, it looked like the chrome bead was crimped off, like with a tin snips or wire cutter. So I did the same. Glued them in with urethane windshield glue. Rolled up the glass to hold them in place. That was almost 5 years ago. Still holding.
1950 Fleetline, 350 TBI, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C, |
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-05-19 02:51 PM - Post#2759137
In response to rrausch
Thanks. I will likely have more questions once the parts arrive!
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-08-19 08:35 PM - Post#2759447
In response to rrausch
Hi Brian and Robert (or anyone else with ideas),
The parts arrived! It's always nice when stuff comes on a Friday--I've got the whole weekend to spend on my car.
The channels and fuzzies from NCA are good. I'm a bit concerned about the vent window rubber, however. Take a look at the picture--I assumed that the rubber would have been formed with the tight corner in mind. It only lays flat when straight. Bending it around the corner creates ripples. I just realized that I am bending it the wrong way in the picture, but it tends to bunch up regardless.
Any thoughts on this? A little heat perhaps? I can (and probably will) return them. I hear good things about Steele, but they are pretty expensive. The NCA parts are 60 bucks.
Edited by dsacton on 02-08-19 08:54 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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johnwd98
Contributor
Posts: 353

Age: 69
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
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02-09-19 06:26 AM - Post#2759465
In response to dsacton
Bend them the right way. Maybe Brian or Robert can help you then.
1950 Fleetline, 350 TBI, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C, |
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-09-19 09:43 AM - Post#2759472
In response to johnwd98
OK--here it is bent the correct way. Unless there is some way to shrink or stretch the rubber in places, this is going to sit on the car with ripples in the seal. Thoughts?
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cbmkr56
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1102

Age: 62
Loc: Basehor Ks
Reg: 02-11-13
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02-09-19 11:19 AM - Post#2759480
In response to dsacton
Put it together and close the vent window , Let it set for a day or 2. You can also try a little heat from a heat gun to help it lay. The problem arises in the mfg process these are made flat and not molded as in the installed position.
The ones that are molded in the shape of the vent window fit the best.
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Lead sled
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1912

Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
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02-09-19 12:03 PM - Post#2759481
In response to cbmkr56
I can't recall having any trouble with the vent window seal,(it's been about 7yrs,and mine is a hardtop,are you sure you got the right kit?)but ya,try some heat (maybe a hair drier?)after you install them back in the frame,and door with the window shut.Keep it shut for a day or two(fingers crossed)The BIGGEST problem I had,was with the seal at the top of the door glass/ roof("flipper gasket")Don't forget to use a good gasket sealer, like the 3M black on all the gaskets. You can get it at any good parts store(body work section) GOOD LUCK!
Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe
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rrausch
"15th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13936

Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
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02-10-19 07:48 PM - Post#2759598
In response to Lead sled
When I worked in the glass shop I hated doing vent window rubber. So when I did the glass work on my '53, I did it all myself except I had the vent windows done at the local glass shop.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.
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johnwd98
Contributor
Posts: 353

Age: 69
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
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02-11-19 06:05 AM - Post#2759605
In response to dsacton
One thing I've learned over the years working on my own car, aftermarket parts are never identical to OEM. There is always some tweaking and realizing that they are not perfect, but are better than the 60+ year old gasket that came with the car. I would assume that the vent window frame pressing against that part of your gasket will do a lot to straighten out the rippling. At least that is how it was when assembling the vent window on my Chevy.
1950 Fleetline, 350 TBI, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C, |
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RAM_51
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5091

Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
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02-11-19 08:02 AM - Post#2759616
In response to dsacton
OK--here it is bent the correct way.
I purchased the wing vent gaskets from NCA for my '51 coupe, installed them, but don't remember having the issue you show. Of course this was some 10-15 years ago. It may be that they have since changed suppliers. I'll have to make a trip out to the shop and see what I can discover.
UPDATE:
I did look at the gaskets that are on my coupe and the raised portion shown at the arrow are not on mine.
1951 Fleetline
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green) |
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-11-19 10:23 AM - Post#2759630
In response to RAM_51
Hi Folks,
Thanks for your help and suggestions. I just ordered a pair from Steele (for 3X the price) and will be sure to post a side-by-side comparison. Fortunately, both organizations have very good return policies.
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Rusty Heaps
Poster
Posts: 80
Loc: Knoxville,TN
Reg: 06-29-11
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02-11-19 10:51 AM - Post#2759639
In response to dsacton
I installed the vent rubbers for my '50 fleetline 4dr from Chevs of the '40s this past summer and they had a little ripple to them at first, but after a few days in the sun they seem to have laid down nicely.
I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust! |
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-18-19 07:02 PM - Post#2760253
In response to RAM_51
Hi Folks,
I ordered both the National Chevy Association and Steele Rubber window gaskets. Here they are, compared side to side. As you can see, the NCA part does indeed produce ripples when installed, owing to manufacturing the parts flat rather than using a molded bend. I could try many things to make the fit better, but only at the risk of damaging the parts to the point that I couldn't return them. The ripples are well-placed for allowing water to seep in.
The Steele part is, overall higher quality and they molded the bend in place--no ripples. However, they made no effort to add the raised area needed for the hinge. Further, the ends need to be trimmed to fit.
I'm not completely happy with the Steele product. But when you put it side by side with the NCA's product, Steele wins. It will do a much better job of sealing the window and keeping the water out. And, after all, that's what it is for. My wife isn't thrilled about the extra $120. But I have invested so much time and energy into restoring these doors. I know myself--the only thing I would ever look at would be those ripples!
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40grit
Contributor
Posts: 451

Age: 73
Loc: Chattanooga, Tn
Reg: 07-08-13
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02-19-19 10:20 AM - Post#2760295
In response to dsacton
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Your pictures and comparisons are really priceless for us who still have these decisions to make.
Great post!
John
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dsacton
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1098

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
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02-19-19 01:30 PM - Post#2760310
In response to 40grit
You are welcome, John. I sure wish that NCA had a better product.
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