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Username Post: Powerglide ?        (Topic#355082)
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
02-03-19 06:04 PM - Post#2758923    

As any of you guys that has restored a car and then started to drive it knows the more you drive the more little things begins to show up. After driving 100+ miles in the last week I have discovered a few things and I’m sure I will find more as I drive it more. But so far, the one that concerns me the most is the transmission. When I start off it will have a slight slip going from low to drive, probably 3 out of 5 times so since I’m aware of it I will sort of let off a little when it changes and it will go on into drive so I don’t want to drive it anymore until I have figured out the reason. The first thing that I did was check the fluid level or attempt to, what I mean by attempt is checking it with the engine running and hot the dip stick has the fluid splashed all over it without a definite level mark. I turned it off and immediately checked it again with the same results but figured the fluid got on the stick from the filler tube this time, I did check it numerous times. When I checked the ’58 Shop Manual it said to check it in “N” but I had been checking it in “P” really not sure what the difference is but this time there was a better defining mark and it was half way between the “full” line and “add” line. The stakes on the stick “C” is supposed to hold the little silver cap thing from moving down the stick but they aren’t doing their job, so I put “A” and “B” in place and hold them there while checking the fluid. The ’58 manual says “an oil level which is either too high or too low can be the cause of a number of abnormal conditions from excessive noise to slippage in all ranges” but this seems to not be my case. My next thought was to simply drain the fluid immediately after driving it and while it is at running temperature and add the correct amount to insure the sump was at the correct level but I can not find just how much that would be. The manual says that you can drain the sump then add 3 ½ qts., warm it up and add as necessary to get it to the full mark". It just seems that there would be a certain amount of fluid that would automatically bring it to the full mark like when you change the engine oil. Since it seems the fluid level is pretty close what would make it slip from low to drive? I know that this is long but trying to give all the info so that you may be able to help me. Thank you in advance, (I have seen some of the advice that has been given for an automatic transmission problems but that’s not an option for me ) Lamar

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Edited by PLS on 02-04-19 06:06 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ecklers AutoMotive
ARTEMIS1759 
Contributor
Posts: 139
ARTEMIS1759
Reg: 04-12-09
02-03-19 11:06 PM - Post#2758939    
    In response to PLS

I assure you, if it's half way, fluid level is fine. Maybe adjustment of the kickdown? Let some other people chime in. But, in rebuilding newer transmissions, until it hits the 1 qt mark, you are fine. See if anybody on here recommends lucas. It has helped me in the past. Just not sure on a power glide. I only chimed in on the fluid level.

To those who dance to the beat of a different drum and dare to make they're dreams come true...


 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 802
ragtp66
Reg: 12-09-07
02-04-19 09:25 PM - Post#2759045    
    In response to PLS

If you go much beyond the half way mark, when you turn the car off and it sits for some time it will puke out the filler tube as the converter will drain back into the trans. Couple things I would check the hose down at the vacuum modulator, pull it off and see if trans fluid comes out. If it does your vacuum modulator has a ruptured diaphram and will need to be replaced. That alone could cause erratic shifting as well as poor acceleration. What type of fluid are you using in it now. I believe most trans builders recommend using the Type F (yup Ford trans fluid) in the old slushbox since the original type fluid is no longer made. Aside from those couple things I would say you need to find an old wrench that knows how to properly check out the trans not that easy to find anymore.

Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
02-05-19 07:04 AM - Post#2759066    
    In response to ragtp66

Thank you I appreciate your reply and help. I pulled the hose off the modulator this morning slowly because I didn’t want trans. fluid running out if the diaphragm was ruptured but after finding no fluid, I pulled it off and a very very small amount dusty stuff came out. I pulled it off the vacuum line as well. You can see inside the end it looks rusty and both ends look the same, of course I can’t see too far unto the tube. The end of the modulator and the end of the line looks rusty, ever so light but non the less rusty. The trans was rebuilt Dec. 2013. When I began looking for someone to rebuild it I found out really quick that either they didn’t know how or just didn’t want to since it was a cast iron power glide. I can’t count the number of shops that I called before I finally found one. When I called and asked him his immediate response was “yes sir, cut my teeth on them and as a matter of fact my first new car was a 1960 Biscayne power glide”. I have called him but don’t get an answer but that was the way it was when I had it rebuilt, he just worked when he wanted to because at that time, he was in his early to mid 80’s, he may not even be with us anymore. He only worked on old stuff, A & T models and only up to the early 70’s transmissions. He had a young guy working with him so I’m going to try and go over to his shop later. It’s going to be about two weeks before I can get the car out again. I have included a picture of the fluid that he told me to use.

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ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 802
ragtp66
Reg: 12-09-07
02-05-19 08:15 PM - Post#2759159    
    In response to PLS

That kind of looks like rust probably from inside the metal vacuum line that goes up to the manifold. You can blow some compressed air through it to clean it out. If it doesn't flow easily or seems plugged up it may need to be replaced or at least cleaned out. Could try clr or some Muriatic acid and a funnel just be careful with the acid wear safety glasses and some gloves. Plug one end and slowly add the acid or clr to fill the tube. You can check the modulator if you have a mityvac pump or just a length of rubber hose and suck on it and see if it holds a vacuum or not. The diaphram might not be ruptured if its not leaking fluid out but it is possible the spring in it is no good. I don't think it will hurt anything running the fluid you have in it but the type F fluid is about as close as you can get to the original type fluid.

Give David a call at: http://autotran.us/ I bought all my parts from him for my cast glide he was VERY helpful and knowledgeable

Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
02-06-19 11:16 AM - Post#2759203    
    In response to ragtp66

Ok checked the vacuum this morning and it seems to hold good. The new modulator was installed when the trans was rebuilt, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it is good. I disconnected the tube from the modulator and pulled the other end off the carburetor and was able to blow thru good, everything has been cleaned up before reassembling the car and it looks like the rusty stuff in the rubber tube is only at the end and I can’t see any up in the metal line. I noticed when I remove the tube from the carburetor it pulled off really easy but when I pulled it off the metal line and modulator it took a bit of effort so I added a small clamp to make it tighter, not sure if that could have caused a problem but want know for a couple of weeks when I get it back out again. Once again thank you for your help and the link, Lamar



 
TYTILIDIE 
"2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 215
TYTILIDIE
Age: 43
Loc: Colorado Springs
Reg: 10-21-15
02-09-19 07:00 AM - Post#2759463    
    In response to PLS

Vacuum issues will not generally cause a slip condition, especially from a stop. Slipping is caused by internal pressure issues like leaking seals or clogged channels and such. Unfortunately my advice is not your option It's always possible that something was done wrong during the rebuild. A lot of people will blame an issue like this on the trans sitting around for too long and seals drying out. I doubt that would really be the case since everything is sealed from the elements. It could be something as small as a tear in a piston seal, a slight tear at that. It's very easy to screw up a seal when building a transmission.

I would also rule out u-joints and the rear end.

All that said, I am no Powerglide expert. I can build a 700r4, 4l60 and 4l80e in my sleep but I am definitely not a fan of the Powerglide.

1959 Biscayne with Impala Moldings, 5.3l LS Swap, 4l60e trans, factory PCM
1992 GMC Typhoon - Bowtie block and heads, forged everything, PTE76mm Turbo, 4L80E, Stock PCM's

"You'll never get anywhere if you keep starting over".

Me


Edited by TYTILIDIE on 02-09-19 07:03 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
02-09-19 06:39 PM - Post#2759508    
    In response to TYTILIDIE

Back in 2013 I posted a question concerning the trans and in a couple of replies from models916 and raycow they suggested using it as is and I probably should have since I don’t remember having any problems with it when I stopped driving the car. In hind sight I should have taken their advice but had it rebuilt. It is going to be about two weeks before I can get it out again and in the mean time I am going to try and get in touch with the guy that rebuilt it. I hope that I haven’t done anything to it driving the little bit that I have. If it becomes a major problem, I will probably go the route of the alumn glide if that’s the easiest way. Thank you, Lamar



 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-03-19 06:56 AM - Post#2765609    
    In response to PLS

Does anyone know of a "go to cast iron power glide guy/gal" on any of the forums? Lamar



 
lone star 
Contributor
Posts: 206

Reg: 08-24-08
05-03-19 07:32 AM - Post#2765614    
    In response to PLS

  • PLS Said:
Does anyone know of a "go to cast iron power glide guy/gal" on any of the forums? Lamar


around 7 yrs ago I had a 62 with a cast iron. and I couldn't find anyone to rebuild it. looking back now. GOOD. that thing leaked like a waterfall and weighed 300 lbs. there are so many options out there to replace this. you can get a th350 for like 200 dollars on craigslist. save a bunch of headache. even a new 350 from jegs is 1000. still cheaper and less headache.



 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-03-19 08:20 AM - Post#2765620    
    In response to lone star

Thank you for your reply. With so much of my sand already in the bottom of my hour glass I am just trying to exhaust all of my options with this old boat anchor. Over all the transmission does pretty good except for the slip between low and drive. A normal acceleration it shifts great but in traffic where it is a slower acceleration is when the slipping occurs. When I am in that situation, I just put it in low and shift it manually to drive once I get to or past the point that it would shift on its own. As far as leaking it does in two places, one is where the speedo cable connects to the trans and that is because I don’t have the seal that is supposed to be there and I can’t find just the seal. Second, the biggest leak is where the shaft comes out at the back of the trans, the one that shifts the gears. (not sure what it is called). I finally got to talk to the guy that rebuilt it back in 2013 but didn’t get much info from him. He was an older gentleman in his early 80’s then and has since had to retire and when I talked to him last week, I couldn’t hardly understand him but he said something about adjusting the pressure and I may have misunderstood him. The ’58 shop manual gives a description of checking the pressures but nothing on adjusting them, so there may not be any adjustment, I don’t know. I feel sure that there are multitudes of cast iron power glides out there in chevyland and here on CT and surely there is at least one PG guru. Lamar



 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12245

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
05-03-19 09:40 AM - Post#2765626    
    In response to PLS

When the Power Glide shifts from low to drive the low band releases and the multipule cluch pac discs apply.
The problem could be the low band adjustment....easy to adjust. Or the the problem could be thr lip stals in the clutch pac or low oil pressure to the clutches.
The moduator only regulates the pressure, during high engine vacuum low PG pressure and during low vacuum high pressre like at full throttle.
Being way to low in fluid could cause a flare-up in the low to drive shift.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-03-19 12:25 PM - Post#2765639    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

Thank you Gene, with the info that I have provided if it was yours what would you do first? Lamar



 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12245

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
05-03-19 03:07 PM - Post#2765656    
    In response to PLS

Adjust the low band.

ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-03-19 07:35 PM - Post#2765675    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

Hey Gene, I was going to make a copy of the low band instructions from the 58 shop manual but my computer and printer aren’t talking to each other right now so I will just type it.... "Tighten low servo adjusting screw, to 5 to 7 ft. lbs. (I will go the inch pound route). The input and output shaft must be rotated simultaneously to properly center the low band on the clutch drum. Then back-off three complete turn if servo piston is first design (without cushion spring) or four complete turns if “cushion spring” (second design) low servo piston is used. Then tighten lock nut securely and install adjusting screw cover. CAUTION: The amount of back-off is not an approximate figure; it must be exactly as specified for the applicable low servo piston". There is a problem if it has to be exact because I have no clue which design my trans is. Help again. I went on line to check on adjusting the low band and there were some links to the chevytalk forum: https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...
https://www.camaros.net/forums/27-transmissio n-dri...
https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...


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It looks like the cover is a friction fit?




Edited by PLS on 05-03-19 07:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
05-07-19 11:00 AM - Post#2765890    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

I want to thank Gene_Schneider for all of his time and help in helping me solve my problem with emails back and forth. He found that the change was made C12 09 which would be December 9, 1957 and that coincides with the section in the 1957 PCSM. As I told Gene. I hesitate to tell you this in fear of jinxing myself. Drove the car around this morning to get it up to operating temp and to recheck how and when it was slipping. A slow start like being in traffic it would slip as stated earlier. A good start, shifts smooth as silk. Placed a jack stand under driver rear axle, placed shifter to natural, backed off lock nut. As I tightened the adjusting screw my wife continually turned the wheel. I set the torque wrench to 75 in. lbs. and I think I got it up to that but the shifting linkage is in the way to get a straight shot to the screw so I had to use a universal in order get to it. By the time that I got it to where I think it was pretty close to the 75 in lbs. there was only about two threads left and the lock nut fell off. I had a piece of tape on the socket/allen with a reference mark on it. I removed the socket and placed the mark on the bottom and backed it off 4 turns then reinstalled the nut and using a regular 1/4" allen wrench to hold the screw in place while I tightened the locking nut with a 3/4" box wrench. I drove it about 5 miles with mostly slow starts and it shifts GREAT!! again I hope that I'm not jinxing myself, it may start again but for now it is fine. Thank you, thank you for your time and help. Lamar (for now happy, happy, happy)

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This section is on page 13-35 of the 1958 Passenger Car Shop Manual. GM was pretty strong with their caution as to the procedure for adjusting the low band and that adjustment depended on whether your trans was a first or second design but didn’t give any indication as how to determine which design.


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This section is on page 13-4 of the 1959-1960 Passenger Car Shop Manual referring back to 1957 PCSM which shows the spring so I am assuming that the spring is the one referenced in the 1958 PCSM as the “cushion spring” and if it is then I probably have the “second design”.


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A friend of mine sent this picture from the 1957 PCSM of the section that was referenced in the 1959-1960 PCSM.




 
Hards..60 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 565
Hards..60
Loc: Northern Ontario,Canada
Reg: 10-20-07
05-08-19 05:22 AM - Post#2765934    
    In response to PLS

Good news, Lamar.

Roger.

1960 Impala 2dr hard top - 348 tri















 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
07-12-19 12:49 PM - Post#2770540    
    In response to PLS

My original question was concerning the slipping of the transmission from low to drive then I mention the fluid leaks especially where the speedo cable connects to the gear housing. With a few emails back and forth with Gene I got the slipping problem solved. As far as the speedo cable leak my original bullet didn’t have a seal and it would lead at the cable connection once the fluid drained down from the converter. I couldn’t find just the seal so I just got a new gear housing and gear off eBay and installed it today, will have to wait a couple of days to see if it solved my problem. I didn’t mention this in my post but I did to Gene in our emails and that was that it was shifting around 15 to 18 mph which he said that was too early and told me to shorten the linkage by adjusting it a few turns at a time but that didn’t help it. I told him that I would just manually shift it until I had the chance to check it more and in the mean time I found another linkage and I know that you are not going to believe this but I have a question. Could someone with a set up like mine measure the linkage shown in the picture? The linkage that is on it now is 11 ¾” long and the one that I found is 10”. My car is a 283 w/two barrel, cast iron power glide. I have also included a picture of the old gear and the new gear and they don’t look at all the same where the seal goes. Lamar

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Edited by PLS on 07-13-19 06:10 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
07-13-19 12:05 PM - Post#2770605    
    In response to PLS

I know that there is an original setup out there somewhere like mine and everyone probably has a phone with a camera 📸 so please help a struggling old guy figure this out If you are not a supporting member you can email me a picture (email address is in my profile) Lamar



 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
07-14-19 10:28 AM - Post#2770675    
    In response to PLS





 
Hards..60 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 565
Hards..60
Loc: Northern Ontario,Canada
Reg: 10-20-07
07-14-19 01:51 PM - Post#2770690    
    In response to PLS

Hi Lamar

The picture you have of the rod measuring 10 inches does not look like the rod I use to have on mine.

I've taken a picture of the rod that was on mine before I switched transmissions and it is 13 and 3/4 inches long, with a slight bend in it.

I can't show you what it looked like when on the engine....wish I could.

Hope this helps a little....

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Roger.

1960 Impala 2dr hard top - 348 tri















 
PLS 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1423
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
07-14-19 05:07 PM - Post#2770702    
    In response to Hards..60

Thank you, Roger. I don’t know for a fact that the 11 ¾” linkage which is installed is the original for this 283, 2br, powerglide but it was in my “stuff”, looked correct and fit so I used it. Then when it was suggested that I shorted the travel by adjusting the swivel to maybe correct the early shifting issue and it didn’t work I found the shorter 10” one and wondered it maybe it should be installed instead of the longer one. I may try the shorter one later to see if in fact it will work. Your linkage is about two inches longer than my long one. Thank you for the help. Lamar



 
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