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Username Post: Wheel doesn't want to come off        (Topic#354800)
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4437

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
01-11-19 06:10 AM - Post#2757101    

The 2002 2500, left front wheel. Whanged on it with a big sledge and nothing, it's rusted into place on the hub.

Was thinking about loosening all the nuts and driving down the street swerving hard back and forth and see if that helps. Once it pops I can jack it up and crank the lugs back so I can come back home with it, I got a cordless impact so no big deal there.

The tire is still decent so I don't want to bust a belt in it.

I did hit it with PB Blaster, I probably should go at it with a wire brush to start cleaning it up too.

The right side did come off but it was a bear, took a few whacks from the same hammer, I cleaned the hub up good and coated it with anti-seize before I put it back on.

The biggest problem is I have mismatched brake pads right now. I had a vibration that seemed to be coming from the right front at 65-70 so I went to look what was going on. Nothing obvious except maybe glazed pads, but on the off chance the rotor was warped I swapped it out along with new pads. Figured it wouldn't be hard to get the other side off and do those pads too. Wrong, of course.

Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually

Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
Whitetail Hunter 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 177
Whitetail Hunter
Age: 51
Loc: Green Bay Wisconsin
Reg: 03-28-15
01-11-19 06:30 AM - Post#2757104    
    In response to Bill K.b

Not much you can do but keep at it with the oil and hammer. I had a rear one that I used the scissor jack between the springs and wheel. Whaen it finally came off it flew about 3 ft. Slowly spin the wheel and hit the wheel bead. Not hard as to bend the wheel. Just to work that rust around. Like hitting a nail. Put antisieze on everything when done.



 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4437

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
01-11-19 08:06 AM - Post#2757107    
    In response to Whitetail Hunter

I did drive it back and forth with about three lugs on and it didn't move a bit. Even pounding the brakes hard. Unfortunately I can't spend a lot of time swinging at it, I paid for that all day yesterday.

I've read a lot of crazy things people have tried, driving over curbs, hitting curbs on purpose, etc.

My G30 years ago the drum was locked on in the back like this and I ended up destroying the drum by cutting around the hub with a cutoff wheel until it was loose. Worst case I could do that again, I don't think another rim is very expensive at the you pick yard.

The big thing once it's off is to clean it up under there.

Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually

Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
wreckmech 
Member
Posts: 225

Loc: Parsippany, NJ
Reg: 10-08-02
01-11-19 09:25 AM - Post#2757115    
    In response to Bill K.b

I've had this issue a couple of times. I figured out that you can use a 2x4 wedged between the edge of the rim and the frame with the truck on jacks. Start the truck & use the power steering to bust it loose. It's worked every time for me...Good luck



 
MiragePilot 
Poster
Posts: 45

Loc: Tucson, AZ
Reg: 08-18-16
01-11-19 10:36 AM - Post#2757121    
    In response to Bill K.b

I have read that if you just loosen the lug nuts and then take the vehicle for a (short) drive, it should pop the wheel loose.
I had this issue with my van a few years ago. Wasn't able to get it off by banging on the wheel. So I hit it with a penetrant oil, and tightened up the lug nuts. Drove it shortly thereafter to Sears Auto Center (to get 4 new tires) and told them I was never able to get the wheel off for maintenance earlier, and that they could expect to have problems.
The wheel popped right off for them!!! So just driving it around with penetrating oil was enough to break the bind.

P


2002 Chevy Express 1500 conversion van (Explorer SE conversion)

RIP (totaled in Feb '18): 1996 Chevy Express 1500 conversion van (Starcraft Hi-Top Conversion)


Edited by MiragePilot on 01-11-19 10:37 AM. Reason for edit: typos

 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3078

Age: 46
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
01-12-19 09:17 PM - Post#2757237    
    In response to Bill K.b

I usually use a large sledge hammer on the sidewall of the tire.

You could try hitting it from the backside, since that's the direction you wan the wheel to go.

Did you try loosing the lugs nuts enough to allow some slop and turning the steering with the weight of the van on the ground?

I would not do anything involving loose lug nuts "swerving hard".

99 K3500 RCLB


 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4437

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
01-13-19 03:12 PM - Post#2757284    
    In response to 454cid

Turned wheels, rocked back and forth, drove about 10 feet and stopped as hard as it would go, hammered on rim from behind with sledge, nothing.

I mean if I go up and down my 30 MPH street and swing it hard to the right with the lugs all on but out 1/4" that might provide the force to move it over, it's still going to be riding on the hub so I can't see anything breaking.

Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually

Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
rockfangd 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2626
rockfangd
Age: 33
Loc: Utica ny
Reg: 04-13-10
01-13-19 03:48 PM - Post#2757286    
    In response to Bill K.b

Have to be careful with that approach as it can snap the studs off if it comes loose.
How long of a handle is on that sledge?
I like at least a few foot long on the stubborn ones


Old School GM fan FOREVER


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3078

Age: 46
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
01-14-19 11:39 PM - Post#2757412    
    In response to Bill K.b

  • Bill K.b Said:

I mean if I go up and down my 30 MPH street and swing it hard to the right with the lugs all on but out 1/4"...



That's asking for trouble.


99 K3500 RCLB


 
wreckmech 
Member
Posts: 225

Loc: Parsippany, NJ
Reg: 10-08-02
01-15-19 08:53 AM - Post#2757440    
    In response to Bill K.b

I've had this issue a couple of times. I figured out that you can use a 2x4 wedged between the edge of the rim and the frame with the truck on jacks. Start the truck & use the power steering to bust it loose. It's worked every time for me...Good luck

Did you try this?



 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 14173
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
01-15-19 07:00 PM - Post#2757500    
    In response to wreckmech

I’ve never had one stick that bad, but I was thinking about it and it might be worth a shot to take it out for a ride and get the brakes hot. The rotor should heat up more than the wheel, so the expansion of the metal on the rotor should help break the bind. I would not drive around with the lugs loose.

Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
1957 Cameo Carrier


 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4437

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
01-15-19 08:19 PM - Post#2757504    
    In response to wagonman100

8 lug wheels with a big fat hub on this, same as a 1 ton. Probably some rust on the surface of the hub.

I whanged on that thing with a 10 lb sledge with like a 30 inch handle, would hit it a couple solid shots, turn the wheel, hit it again. I can see I have some slop in there somewhere, it would move everything about an inch, but the rim never budged.

It's been too expletive cold to do much since then, it actually got to 35' today and I did some interior stuff it needs. It actually drives fine despite the mismatch, so I figure if it ends up being a few hundred miles before the weather cooperates enough to go mess with it it won't hurt anything. I have a whole spare rotor I took off the other side if I need it, I only swapped that one on the off chance it was warped a bit.

This all started because at 65 it would start to shake pretty bad on the right front. I took the right side apart to see what it was; nothing was obvious, but the pads on it made quite a bit of grinding noise even after I changed the rotor, so I swapped them out and I'm thinking they were the problem. But I also found the washer under the spindle nut seemed to be a bit crooked and it actually took two more turns when I put the used donor rotor on so maybe that was part of the problem too.

... and I counted the turns because on the 3500 I had a hard time getting rotors to seat correctly the times I changed them, actually ended up driving it with one just loose enough to have some slop and it messed up the ABS sensor. Couldn't tell in the least when driving it. Figured if I counted how many to take the nut off then I'd know it was wrong if it was tight before that many back on.





Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually

Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5392
bobb
Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
01-16-19 09:45 AM - Post#2757536    
    In response to Bill K.b

remember when you hit the rim with a bfh the shock load goes to the bearings. the rim is rust locked on the hub. i would loosen the lugs, get a long punch and hit the inner corner of the lip of the rim where hub is. roll forward a few inches and strike again. this will put the shock load directly on the spot that is rust locked. you may need to turn the wheel to get a good angle. i know it sounds goofy but its hard to describe. that 2 x 4 idea sounds good too. use never sieze on the hub going back together.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


Edited by bobb on 01-16-19 09:47 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
aghaga 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2185
aghaga
Age: 64
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
01-16-19 10:14 AM - Post#2757538    
    In response to Bill K.b

My truck shook while going down the road and the cause was a bad brake caliper.



 
Algoma56 
Contributor
Posts: 705

Loc: Sault Ste. Marie, ON, Can...
Reg: 03-14-05
01-17-19 04:56 PM - Post#2757634    
    In response to Bill K.b

I've heated the rim, around the hub, to help break rust's bite. Works on stuck drums as well. Don't go wild with the torch, just need to get it hot enough to work.



 
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1981
beagrizzly
Age: 68
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
01-19-19 11:30 AM - Post#2757731    
    In response to Algoma56

A big punch, and a torch. Heat the wheel between the lug nuts. Use the punch and the big hammer to smack the wheel right between the lugs. On the flat spot.
These wheels have a wedge built in from the stamping process. It's there so the wheels don't get loose. It actually cuts into the hub slightly. It's also there so the weight is on the center of the hub, not on the lug nuts. Another thing it's designed to do is center the wheel.

Griff


if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
Dirtywerk 
Poster
Posts: 17

Reg: 09-01-13
01-21-19 01:53 PM - Post#2757891    
    In response to Bill K.b

The fastest working rustbuster is a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF. I've dealt with rims rusted to drums and hubs in the past by loosening up the lug nuts in order to shoot that mix behind them then behind on top as I rotated the wheel. Did that a few times since the mix would soak in then waited 30 minutes before running down the lugs to where they touched the rim. Then I drove or pushed the vehicle 10 feet in forward and reverse before jamming on the brakes.The shock of the sudden stop sheared the rust holding the rims in place.

Dirtywerk

East Texas


 
G. Baker 
Poster
Posts: 49

Loc: Ontario Canada
Reg: 12-18-15
01-21-19 03:43 PM - Post#2757896    
    In response to Bill K.b

If you have a steel wheel, heat with a torch nearest the centre hole. All around. That is where it is sticking. Loosen lug nuts one turn and try some hard cornering.
Some penetrating oil of any kind and a BIG sledge on the tire.
Try it.




 
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