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Chevs of the 40s

Username Post: Flywheel bolt repair        (Topic#354766)
usmile4 
"11th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4245
usmile4
Age: 72
Loc: Aurora, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
01-08-19 10:15 AM - Post#2756874    

One of the bolts the attach the flywheel to the crank is stripped. I've tried recutting the threads and using locktite but it still slips right at the end of the tightening. Has anyone used a heli-coil to repair one of those bolts? If so, what size did you use and any tips will be welcome. Also does anyone have the torque specks for flywheel and also clutch bolts? I had those specs but in my piling system I seemed to have lot them.

Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 

Chevs of the 40s

eplantage 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2201

Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
01-08-19 10:51 AM - Post#2756879    
    In response to usmile4

It sounds as if the bolt may be bottoming out before the head makes complete contact with the flywheel. You could try adding another washer under the bolt head or a shim of some sort and try again. You could also tap the hole for the next size up bolt. Not sure if there would be any balance issues that close to the axis of the crankshaft though.

Age: 65 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1999
beagrizzly
Age: 69
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
01-08-19 11:00 AM - Post#2756880    
    In response to usmile4

On a crankshaft, I wouldn't use a Heli-coil. I would use the one pictured below. I have had Heli-coils come unwound in the hole when I took the bolt out.
Don't get me wrong. Heli-coils are a good product, but I feel that the Clav-sert gives a little better repair.

Griff

Attachment: F-CLAVSERT.jpg (24.92 KB) 15 View(s)




if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1743

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
01-08-19 11:38 AM - Post#2756884    
    In response to beagrizzly

The best thread repair kits are Timeserts, Cadillac used them for the troublesome Northstar head bolt issues.http://www.timesert.com



Edited by Shepherd on 01-08-19 11:44 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
usmile4 
"11th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4245
usmile4
Age: 72
Loc: Aurora, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
01-08-19 02:18 PM - Post#2756896    
    In response to Shepherd

The videos on the Time-Sert site sure make it look easy. Of course they aren't drilling while the engine is still in the car, laying on a cold concrete shop floor with the car on jack stands!

Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
usmile4 
"11th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4245
usmile4
Age: 72
Loc: Aurora, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
01-08-19 02:22 PM - Post#2756897    
    In response to eplantage

I don't think the bolt is bottoming out. As I tighten it, it grabs and holds fine right until the last 1/8 turn to where it will be tight as the rest of them and then it slips. I've tried other bolts and they do the same and I've tried the slipping bolt in another hole and it tightens fine. I didn't want to put a washer on it thinking it would raise the head up higher.

Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
eplantage 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2201

Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
01-08-19 02:33 PM - Post#2756898    
    In response to usmile4

Those bolt heads are pretty thin to start with.

Age: 65 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
usmile4 
"11th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4245
usmile4
Age: 72
Loc: Aurora, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
01-08-19 03:01 PM - Post#2756899    
    In response to eplantage

Can someone tell me the length, size and thread size of the bolts for attaching flywheel to engine? Just want to make sure I have the correct ones when I get it all pulled apart.

Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
one4dad 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1498
one4dad
Age: 76
Loc: Baton Rouge La
Reg: 01-17-10
01-08-19 03:09 PM - Post#2756901    
    In response to usmile4

When I had my flywheel resurfaced in my 216 and then I reinstalled in my 235 I figured I need new bolts so I ordered from Langdons ( I believe) they came in slightly shorter than the ones I took out of the 216. I called and Tom told me the shorter length was the correct length. I finally believed him and installed accordingly. Never had an issue. That said you might give him a call and discuss.

Bill Wilson 50 styleline deluxe 2 door sold,- 51 styleline Deluxe 2 door ,'56 235 with dual carter webers on an Offenhauser intake, Fenton headers, 56 chevy rear end and 700R4 transmission.


 
beagrizzly 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1999
beagrizzly
Age: 69
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
01-08-19 03:18 PM - Post#2756902    
    In response to usmile4

https://youtu.be/LpDduCVUy6w

I know your crank isn't aluminum, but this is a very good video for anyone needing thread repair.

Griff

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
Dean50 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1345
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
01-08-19 03:45 PM - Post#2756905    
    In response to usmile4

Bill, this may be it.
3/8-16 x 1"
Bolts listing is toward the bottom of the page. RAM or somebody, please verify that I chose the correct item.
Thanks.



Attachment: Screenshot_2019-01-08-17-40-55.png (635.46 KB) 17 View(s)

Dean50



 
drtyler 
Contributor
Posts: 547

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
01-08-19 04:30 PM - Post#2756911    
    In response to Dean50

I believe they are 7/16-20 x 1”, group 0.669 at top (part # 839756).






 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5424
bobb
Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
01-15-19 09:08 AM - Post#2757443    
    In response to usmile4

if your gonna crawl under there to drill a crank be sure its at a comfortable height to work on. put long bolts in the other holes to referance your aim. if you use a helicoil it my be too long. you dont want it hanging out the backside. you can cut off the coils you dont need. the last coil must be below the face of the crank. preferably one thread. that may be allot due to the flange thickness. so maybe half a thread. i use red loctite to hold um in there. make sure to have a piece of sheetmetal behind so you dont drill into something other than the crank. flywheel bolts should go all the way through the crank flange by a thread or two. you can use bolts from different engines to get the right length.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


 

Chevs of the 40s

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