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Username Post: Hood Fitment Issues        (Topic#354232)
TYTILIDIE 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 162
TYTILIDIE
Age: 42
Loc: Colorado Springs
Reg: 10-21-15
12-05-18 07:21 PM - Post#2753547    

My hood sticks up a solid 1/2" at the cowl. I have the hinges "down" all the way. Not sure what else to look for here. The hinges came with the car bit it is a different hood which I don't see how that could cause the problem.

Any thoughts?

1959 Biscayne with Impala Moldings, 5.3l LS Swap, 4l60e trans, factory PCM
1992 GMC Typhoon - Bowtie block and heads, forged everything, PTE76mm Turbo, 4L80E, Stock PCM's

"You'll never get anywhere if you keep starting over".

Me


 

Ecklers AutoMotive

DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 6949
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
12-06-18 02:43 AM - Post#2753585    
    In response to TYTILIDIE

Is there an adjustment for the hood in the shop manual?


63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


 
fantm2flyer 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 112
fantm2flyer
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-15-07
12-06-18 02:03 PM - Post#2753651    
    In response to DonSSDD

I don't think there is one for the hood, but there is one for the trunk lid, and it works the same way. It involves putting shims between the hinge and the hood. The shims go under one or the other of the hinge bolts, depending on which way you want it to go. For your situation, I think you'd want to shim up the front bolts. Check your manual for the trunk lid to be sure. You may have to fool with it with some different thickness shims, but you will get there.

Bob


 
stanski 
Poster
Posts: 69

Reg: 05-05-16
12-06-18 07:18 PM - Post#2753687    
    In response to fantm2flyer





 
stanski 
Poster
Posts: 69

Reg: 05-05-16
12-06-18 07:23 PM - Post#2753688    
    In response to fantm2flyer

Does the hood edge at the cowl go down at all if you gently push on it? If it moves down then your springs are weak and not pulling down with enough force.



 
59fins 
"17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2158
59fins
Age: 58
Loc: Surprise Az USA
Reg: 04-07-00
12-07-18 12:49 PM - Post#2753757    
    In response to TYTILIDIE

Any chance you have the front latch set too tight (or down) and the the perches up too high at front?
Should not have to shim hinges

2 bolts to fire wall, loosened pretty good and lift hood while pushing down on hings at those 2 bolts.

Check hood constantly for fit! as if the rear edge gets too low, it will catch the cowl panel, then you have a complete other issue of opening the hood up w/o damaging the hood and cowl panel, so 1/2 inch is quite a bit, some will remove cowl panel top and get hood to align with fenders, then put cowl top back on.

Once that has or had been tried and 2 bolts on each hinge are tight, loosen bolts at front of hinge, (do not remember exactly) but there are a few bolts on each fender with a bracket? loosen them all and lift on front of hood, (not excessively) and wiggle hood some, you want front of hood to come up.

You would need a helper to do this.

What I have always done with doors and hoods, is take the latch off, or striker, and get the panel to fit without a catch (or a latch), doors do not put weatherstrips in until door is in alignment, the put w/s in and do the same, you eliminate a possible problem, if the hood does not shut properly w/o the latch then there is another problem.... study the mechanics of the hinges, are they loose? is the spring loose, or not tight enough as mentioned?

Another problem could be the radiator support, slim but if fenders fit doors good, what shims did you use to achieve that gap, on the cowl or at the frame where supt bolts are.

Was the body off the frame? sounds crazy, but I helped a guy align a left door once (2 door h/t) and it was not happening, turned out the body bolts/ bushings at left front body mount was too high, wrong body bushing was used, took forever to find that, he asked me to help him align the door, body was already back on frame.

I guess I am saying, look at the process you took to get all panels to line up, any other issues?

Have to say it's been a while, but looked at my old photos and it brought back alot of memories

http://s756.photobucket.com/user/JackWHickle/libr a...

Bill H.
67 Impala SS




 
fantm2flyer 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 112
fantm2flyer
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-15-07
12-08-18 05:57 AM - Post#2753836    
    In response to 59fins

Does your hood line up with the fenders on the sides? If it does, sounds like a cowl issue. But if the cowl and the fenders line up, it's a hood issue. Assuming your hinges are in good shape, and you have the hinge bolts on the firewall all the way down, then you have to adjust the hood down.

"Any chance you have the front latch set too tight (or down) and the perches up too high at front? Should not have to shim hinges"

IMHO, if you had the front latch so tight it was kicking the rear end of the hood 1/2" high, you probably couldn't open the hood. In a perfect world, we wouldn't have to shim any of the adjustable sheet metal on our cars. But if shims are used to line up trunk lid, doors, and fenders, why not the hood? It takes less than 10 minutes to try a couple of shims just to see what will happen. Might surprise you, and you haven't spent a lot of time second-guessing everything else you've done up to this point.

Bob


 
59fins 
"17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2158
59fins
Age: 58
Loc: Surprise Az USA
Reg: 04-07-00
12-08-18 08:06 AM - Post#2753854    
    In response to fantm2flyer

Hmm guess I don’t follow your explanation tone

Yes it has been a while since I have been on the 59 forum outside of some lurking, though I may try throwing out some suggestions, sounds like someone thought I was barging in?

Thought I would throw in some suggestions, without photos, a 1/2 inch to one may be 1/4 to someone else, and frankly, no shim is going to cure 1/2 inch at the rear of any hood, unless you like the cobbled look.

Yes shims in door strikers, fenders, and deck lids are common, once in a while on the hood hinge at at the cowl, but between the hood and the hinge in any world perfect or not tells me something is way off at 1/2 inch. If you can follow my previous post, it basically says it could be a combination of several issues, may not even be the hinges, look outside the box, a shin between a hood and hinge to me is a bandage, but some people do things the way they know how, and do not look for alternative suggestions, if this was brought up in a prior post, then it was, the way some write things makes it easier or harder to understand I guess?

So if you do not want any suggestions as the poster asks for I won’t, there are ideas, problems I have dealt with many times maybe if not you, but someone else may “learn” from it.
Member# 212, never had anyone use a tone on suggestions to me anyways, it is not what this site is about, it’s about the arena of ideas. Helping each other, not tearing them down.

Thank You
Bill Hickle


Bill H.
67 Impala SS




 
fantm2flyer 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 112
fantm2flyer
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-15-07
12-08-18 09:12 AM - Post#2753860    
    In response to 59fins

I wasn't trying to take a "tone". The original poster asked for thoughts on his problem. The second poster asked if there was an adjustment for the hood in the shop manual. I offered my opinion on the shop manual question, and a suggestion for the original issue of lowering the hood. I think your use of Bold Face type "Should not have to shim hinges" is more indicative of a "tone" than my comments to the original poster. Apparently, to you, my suggestion is not worthy of consideration. My point is simply that if everything else is good, don't mess with it. Try a simple fix, and see what happens. Maybe it works, maybe not. All you're out is a few minutes of time.
59fins, your last two paragraphs above are a little condescending, in my opinion. Trust me, I'm willing to listen to any idea, and I can surely understand any coherently written post.

Bob


 
Jens 
58-60 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 7119
Jens
Loc: Iowa.
Reg: 04-21-02
12-08-18 03:23 PM - Post#2753906    
    In response to TYTILIDIE

With the hinges lowered and tight at the firewall. Loosen the bolt (shown) on L&R hinges and lift the front of the hood (to tip the hinge up) and re-tighten as mentioned.
This should help rotate the hinge down in the back.
If the hood still sits up in the back. Remove the springs and close the hood & see if it lays flat. If it does, your hinges are probably worn and need inspected/replaced.
Put them in a vise (without any springs or pressure on them) and check for loose/worn pivots.
I've never had to add any shims between the hood and hinges. Because you can slide the hinges up and down at the firewall to compensate.
Trunk hinges on the other hand are stationary and sometimes need shims for tipping adjustment. Hope this helps.








 
59fins 
"17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2158
59fins
Age: 58
Loc: Surprise Az USA
Reg: 04-07-00
12-09-18 06:25 AM - Post#2753964    
    In response to fantm2flyer

Well I guess I am sorry if you took it as condescending, it was not meant to be that way, I tend to be OCD, it is a shortcoming of mine in which I try and tell too much detail, but have found through the years, most people like detail.

Jens shorten up what I was conveying, if what I said was wrong so be it, never want to do any harm, just fixin cars. I just like to look at the big picture and why something does not work as it should.

no harm no fowl .... lets move on!!

------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ------------------------- ---------------

Did a google search, if needed found 2 shops that rebuild hood hinges if that turns out to be the problem (sure there are many more) would ask for references if you have never worked with them.
http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/
https://www.sms-auto.com/

Bill H.
67 Impala SS




 
TYTILIDIE 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 162
TYTILIDIE
Age: 42
Loc: Colorado Springs
Reg: 10-21-15
12-12-18 05:05 AM - Post#2754222    
    In response to 59fins

I apparently did not realize that these cars had firewall insulation. I bought one and need to remove the inner fenders to install. Once I get that far I am going to try and jump on this hood fiasco. I have looked at it some and it appears I have some work to do.

1959 Biscayne with Impala Moldings, 5.3l LS Swap, 4l60e trans, factory PCM
1992 GMC Typhoon - Bowtie block and heads, forged everything, PTE76mm Turbo, 4L80E, Stock PCM's

"You'll never get anywhere if you keep starting over".

Me


 
59fins 
"17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2158
59fins
Age: 58
Loc: Surprise Az USA
Reg: 04-07-00
12-13-18 08:35 PM - Post#2754437    
    In response to TYTILIDIE

Not sure you have remove anything in front of the firewall? heater/ fuse box/ brake pedals and column unless you some a/c stuff to deal with on in side.
They are held it by plastic push clips from inside, and there is a punch like tool used to push them in, a flat faced punch would probably work?
It's a job regardless, but not sure anything has to come off up front

Bill H.
67 Impala SS




 
TYTILIDIE 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 162
TYTILIDIE
Age: 42
Loc: Colorado Springs
Reg: 10-21-15
12-14-18 04:09 AM - Post#2754454    
    In response to 59fins

Well, I found that out the hard way. But still, I am glad I removed the inner fender which was nothing short of a nightmare that is resulting in modification of the inner fenders. I bought some really nice top of fender moldings that I need to install which requires either the inner fenders removed or the fenders themselves.

1959 Biscayne with Impala Moldings, 5.3l LS Swap, 4l60e trans, factory PCM
1992 GMC Typhoon - Bowtie block and heads, forged everything, PTE76mm Turbo, 4L80E, Stock PCM's

"You'll never get anywhere if you keep starting over".

Me


 
59fins 
"17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2158
59fins
Age: 58
Loc: Surprise Az USA
Reg: 04-07-00
12-14-18 06:55 PM - Post#2754544    
    In response to TYTILIDIE

  • TYTILIDIE Said:
Well, I found that out the hard way. But still, I am glad I removed the inner fender which was nothing short of a nightmare that is resulting in modification of the inner fenders. I bought some really nice top of fender moldings that I need to install which requires either the inner fenders removed or the fenders themselves.



yep... the moldings on the top of fenders would require that!
You know that them moldings are Right and Left? lot of people don't know that, if you look at the retainer on bottom of molding that the mounting studs come out of, you will see a "R" or "L" w/o the quotations

Good luck


Bill H.
67 Impala SS




 

Ecklers AutoMotive

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