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Username Post: Alternator Wiring ?        (Topic#354220)
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 954
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
12-05-18 12:12 AM - Post#2753425    

Is it possible to get one that does not have a internal regulator and wire it just like the generator, would like to keep the stock amp gauge.

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 

Chevs of the 40s

IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3509

Reg: 04-15-05
12-05-18 04:55 AM - Post#2753443    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

Stock ammeter will work just fine with either type alternator.



 
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 954
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
12-05-18 10:10 AM - Post#2753482    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Thank You

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
Larry E 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 95
Larry E
Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-15-16
12-05-18 11:07 AM - Post#2753486    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

Perfect timing for this topic.
Is it ok also go direct to the battery from the alternator?

1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 235


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27978
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-05-18 11:28 AM - Post#2753489    
    In response to Larry E

  • Larry E Said:
.....Is it ok also go direct to the battery from the alternator?


Not if you want the ammeter to work. You have to route the alternator output the same as the original generator armature wire. When you get to where the generator regulator is/was, connect the armature and battery wires together with a bolt and nut and insulate the joint with tape. Note that this is NOT the same as connecting directly to the battery. The battery wire from the regulator connects to the ammeter, not the battery.

If the original car wiring is in poor condition you do not have to use it. You can use new wire, but just be sure to route it the same way as the original. This will make more sense once you look at a stock wiring diagram.

If you need additional info, feel free to ask.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Larry E 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 95
Larry E
Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-15-16
12-05-18 01:21 PM - Post#2753501    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray
First let me say I am not a mechanic or electrician.
I'm asking because the alternator doesn't seem to be charging my battery. The car was just rewired a few months ago.
Sunday I was driving home from Pomona swap meet and had my radio on while driving (with amp in trunk). Drove for 30 mins. Then parked at home turned off radio and car. 10 mins later went to start car and battery was dead.
We tested the alternator and it is putting out 14.5 volts. Someone said it needs to be polarized. Another guys to run a wire straight to the battery.

1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 235


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1554

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
12-05-18 02:00 PM - Post#2753510    
    In response to Larry E

Only generators need polarizing. If you showed 14.5 at the battery then the alt must be charging, start looking at other possibilities. Btw, I'm ready for an argument here, but ammeters can be a source of electrical problems as all the systems current is going through the ammeter, unless it is the current sensing type like Chrysler had in the 50s. Soon as alternators took over charging duties, voltmeters came into use.



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27978
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-06-18 01:41 AM - Post#2753577    
    In response to Larry E

A lot of people are doing electrical work on cars who probably shouldn't be doing it. This includes installing alternators.

Was the alternator already installed on the car when you bought it or did that go in along with the rewiring? Has your problem existed for as long as you have had the alternator, or did it start at some later time? If later, did it appear after any work of any kind was done on the car? Since you have a radio with an amp in the trunk, it sounds if at least some electrical modifications have been made on the car.

During the time you have had the car, has the ammeter been working normally? Has it been working erratically? Has it never been working at all? If you have never owned a car with a working ammeter before now and/or don't know what "normally" looks like, please say so.

Is your alternator a one wire type or a 3 wire type? When you read 14.5 volts at the alternator, was it installed on the car or was it removed for testing?

I think these are enough questions for a start. Please answer as many as you can and be ready for more.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
DanD1950 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 880
DanD1950
Loc: London Ont. Canada
Reg: 10-16-11
12-06-18 05:16 AM - Post#2753592    
    In response to IgnitionMan

  • IgnitionMan Said:
Stock ammeter will work just fine with either type alternator.



Very true it will work fine with a low amperage alternator, like a 32 amp maximum. Now if you were to put a 60-100 or like I have on my car a 130 amp alternator; you'll toast the ammeter. The original gauge was never designed to handle that kind of current flow.
With what you said that the alternator was tested showing 14.5 volts; that is telling me the alternator is charging. Also you said the battery was dead; that tells me that you may have an open charging system circuit. Voltage is not reaching the battery. If it was wired so that the ammeter worked and it was constantly pegged; the ammeter is now likely burnt out; causing the open circuit. This is all guessing without seeing the car or having a lot more info.
You could try testing the voltage at the battery, engine off. Start the engine and take another reading. If the voltage is the same or lower; the charge is not reaching the battery. Shut the engine off, run a wire from the battery terminal of the alternator to the battery positive terminal. Start the engine; if the voltage is now going up; you've just proven that there is an open circuit in the charging system.
By rights if the car was rewired the same as it originally was, a burnt out ammeter would shut most everything off. But we don't know how it was rewired?

Dan.


50 Styleline Deluxe, 2 Door Sedan, Was a 216cu", Three Speed Manual. She now has a 4.8Lt V8 LR4 injected engine, 4L60E 4 speed automatic, 10 bolt diff 342 gear with an Eaton C80 Locker



 
Tgoss 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 667
Tgoss
Loc: Brunswick Georgia, USA
Reg: 02-08-05
12-07-18 11:59 PM - Post#2753820    
    In response to Larry E

  • Larry E Said:
Sunday I was driving home from Pomona swap meet and had my radio on while driving (with amp in trunk).


your problem may be as simple as you stated above. My question to you is how do you turn the amp in the trunk off. If it is not turned off it will continue to draw power all the time. When my daughter turned 16 she wanted a Mercury Capri. I found one that was for sale but needed a battery. I put a new battery in it and drove it home. later that day the car would not start and the battery was dead. I traced the current draw to the amp in the trunk. I removed the amp and all the added wiring and reconnected the radio as it was supposed to be. I never had another battery problem with it. Remove the fuse sending power to the amp in the trunk and your problem may go away.


Tgoss

1954 Chevy Sport Coupe, Horizon Blue, 350, 700R4
1954 Chevy Sport Coupe, Pueblo Tan, 235, 3 speed
1988 Chevy Silverado Pick-up, 350, 700R4
2008 VW Bug Convertible
2017 Toyota Corolla


 
Larry E 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 95
Larry E
Loc: Los Angeles
Reg: 09-15-16
12-11-18 03:24 PM - Post#2754175    
    In response to Tgoss

Hey guys thanks for your advice.
So here is the status.
I took off the alternator and had it tested. It is putting out 14.5 volts.
So the problem is probably at the ammeter, disconnected or broken. So my next move is disconnect both wires at the ammeter and connect them together, bypassing the ammeter so the 1 wire alternator goes straight to the battery wire. I will let you know how it works.

1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 235


 

Chevs of the 40s

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