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Username Post: 49 styleline        (Topic#354167)
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
12-01-18 05:53 PM - Post#2753030    

Hi. First post so not sure if it will work or go where it should. Looking for information on identifying casting numbers on 50s transmissions. I want to keep column shift but want to maybe upgrade the dif to improve highway speeds. Would appreciate any and all advice.



 

Chevs of the 40s

carolina chevrolet 
Poster
Posts: 7

Reg: 11-12-18
12-01-18 07:33 PM - Post#2753036    
    In response to 49betty

Welcome. There's some info on casting numbers in this thread.
https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...




 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
12-01-18 08:06 PM - Post#2753040    
    In response to carolina chevrolet

Thanks for the road map to those casting numbers. The trannys Ive been looking at are later 50s with open driveline. Ive been all over google looking but apparently in the wrong place.



 
raycow 
DECEASED
Posts: 27999
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-01-18 10:35 PM - Post#2753050    
    In response to 49betty

There are two ways to go, depending on how much of a gearing change you want.

Your stock rear axle ratio is 4.11. If 3.55 is enough of an improvement, you can swap the torque tube assembly from a 50-54 Powerglide car, which is a total bolt-in. This is a very easy swap and can be done in just a few hours.

If you want taller gearing than 3.55, you will need to convert to open drive, which means replacing the bellhousing, transmission, and rear axle. You will also need to replace or modify the transmission crossmember to accommodate the mount on the open drive trans and relocate the parking brake linkage. This will take considerably longer than the torque tube swap, so be prepared to have the car out of service for several days.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
12-02-18 02:14 PM - Post#2753113    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray. Ive looked high and low for a powerglide rearend but up here in the cool north alberta its hard to find. Winter here so was thinking I had time for a longer down time. Ive located some newer open drivline trannys but wanted to see if I could tell what they were from the casting numbers and try to get a handle on the difficulty in getting the shifting levers and clutch working properl. Thanks again Robert.



 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
12-02-18 02:17 PM - Post#2753115    
    In response to 49betty

Havent had any luck identifying the transmissions but I believe they are Saginaw or maybe Muncie from late 50s or early 60s. they have 7 bolts on the side cover.



 
raycow 
DECEASED
Posts: 27999
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-03-18 07:13 PM - Post#2753256    
    In response to 49betty

A 7 bolt cover will usually mean a Saginaw trans, used 66-up. There was also a 7 bolt Muncie 3 speed from 69-on, but those are rather scarce and would definitely be overkill for your application (they were originally intended for big block V-8s). The Saginaw is a better trans than the 4 bolt (stronger, quieter, and with a synchronized 1st gear), but will need more work in order to hook up the column shift linkage. Otherwise, installation is the same as for the 4 bolt.

You can keep your existing clutch with either a 4 bolt or 7 bolt trans, but the clutch linkage will need a bit of work because of the fork angle coming out of the bellhousing. The difference will be evident when you compare your present bell with the replacement part.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
12-03-18 08:41 PM - Post#2753271    
    In response to raycow

Thanks raycow. Im leaning towards the new tranny with syncro. It might take me a while to figure it out but if its been done before that gives me hope. Still looking for a power glide rearend though or maybe a S10 rearend.



 
Cruzin Okie 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 686
Cruzin Okie
Loc: Jay, Oklahoma
Reg: 10-26-11
12-03-18 09:44 PM - Post#2753279    
    In response to 49betty

Don't forget the S10 must be a Blazer 4x4. Try to avoid the 1994 model due to a change over year, is what I've heard. Not a bad swap at all. I put mine in with a Chassis Engineering rear suspension kit.

Johnnie

1950 styleline deluxe sports coupe, 350 cid, TH 400, nova rear end. Gen IV Vintage air. SOLD!
1953 210 4 Door, 235 with Powerglide. All original except for the 1954 hood bird.

John 3:16



 
drew1987 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3117
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
12-03-18 09:56 PM - Post#2753282    
    In response to Cruzin Okie

49Betty,

welcome! this is arguably the best forum on the web, regardless of make and model. Hopefully you find all you need here. I have loved my 1957 chevy housing with 1960ish 3.08 gears, given that I have enough ponies to turn them. The 3.55:1s I had with my stock 235/3spd/torguetube were good in that situation. Camaro and S10 are wonderful options, as pointed out too. If you dont stay with a torque tube, but you keep stock springs, please note that the pin that located the spring perches is NOT centered... the rear in these cars stock was on a hinge of sorts to make up for the lack for the torque tube to move for and aft. that said, the perches on whatever you put in will need to be drilled to match. Maybe say 55-62 chevy rear ends dont need the perches moved inward, but I did on mine, as I could see forgoing 20% of the total contact of the rear end to the springs to avoid a little welding

best,

drew

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 12-03-18 09:56 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
12-04-18 06:58 PM - Post#2753393    
    In response to drew1987

Good advice thanks. Up here in Alberta old iron is hard to find. Ill have much better luck looking for the S10 rearend. Ive located a couple rearends from 85 or 87 S10 but they are 2 wheel drives. What is the difference between them and 4WD. Is the 2WD not good for this rearend swap?



 
Keith_Knox 
Moderator and "17th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6130
Keith_Knox
Age: 77
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
12-04-18 08:06 PM - Post#2753407    
    In response to 49betty

The 2wd is to narrow.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
01-03-19 04:26 PM - Post#2756495    
    In response to Keith_Knox

Ive located a 4wd S10 blazer with gear about 3.42 I think. Out of an 87/88. Noticed the drive shaft is about 1 inch off center. I remember reading a post about this but cant remember if it was an issue or not. Cant find the post. Im sure there is a way to search for it....



 
Mike JW 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1350
Mike JW
Loc: Arroyo Grande, CA
Reg: 01-19-06
01-03-19 07:00 PM - Post#2756512    
    In response to 49betty

Not an issue.



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4558
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
01-04-19 12:05 AM - Post#2756531    
    In response to Mike JW

Hi, to expand on what JW was saying. It is unusual for the driveshaft to enter most rear axles on the vehicle centerline. A crown wheel and pinion gear set require an offset.

If you want to find the middle of a rear axle measure in from the same place each side. eg axle flange or backing plate etc.

I remember seeing a 32 hi-boy roadster where the clown who built it went from the driveshaft line and his rear wheels sat about 1 1/2" out from one side to the other.

He used to call my good friend Dave "rubber ruler" which is a pretty harsh insult to a pro builder. So I waited for a big crowd before saying out loud, "Your car must be for circle track racing, why else would you build in chassis stagger?"

That amount of offset is common and is split between the front and rear universals in the vertical plane. Not an issue. They probably deflect more than that horizontally in normal suspension movement. Universals don't like big angles but the most destructive is no angle at all as they can quickly chatter the bearings to death

Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 01-04-19 12:11 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
49betty 
Poster
Posts: 36

Reg: 12-01-18
01-04-19 05:38 AM - Post#2756540    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Thanks for advice. I was thinking it wasn't a problem but wanted to make sure. The guy I was getting it from told me that Mopar put some of their engines off center in their cars to clear the steering box? Thought that was a bit weird.



 

Chevs of the 40s

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