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Ecklers AutoMotive
Username Post: Power to hei        (Topic#353849)
jophes72 
Poster
Posts: 40

Loc: Huntington Beach CA
Reg: 07-19-16
11-10-18 04:18 PM - Post#2751012    

Hi . I’ve been having a problem with my truck. Real quickly I’m wondering aboutmy unfused ignition port on my fuse box. I got no spark when I crank my engine . When I check for voltage to my feed to hei the light comes on on 12 volt tester light : so I’ve been going nuts . I went down to fuse box and put my test light on unfused ignition port ,it lit up. Then I touched test light on when I turned key not to start but just turned key and I have no power : I double checked with meter and same result. Any thoughts .? Thank you and Happy Veterans Day, maybe I’m missing something . Bad ground possible



Edited by jophes72 on 11-10-18 06:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ecklers AutoMotive
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1787

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
11-11-18 10:22 AM - Post#2751058    
    In response to jophes72

So, key on no power to the power terminal on the distributor?



 
jophes72 
Poster
Posts: 40

Loc: Huntington Beach CA
Reg: 07-19-16
11-11-18 10:28 AM - Post#2751059    
    In response to Shepherd

Key off power to ign on fuse box key turned on no power to it will not start no spark. Thanks



 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1787

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
11-11-18 04:33 PM - Post#2751081    
    In response to jophes72

All you need to do is find an isolated circuit that has power cranking and in the ignition run position, no power key off. Check these potential terminals in your fuse panel.



 
Mja1975 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 308
Mja1975
Age: 44
Loc: San Jose , Ca
Reg: 06-28-12
11-11-18 07:34 PM - Post#2751092    
    In response to jophes72

If I'm understanding correctly,

Run a wire from the S terminal on the starter then splice another wire from 12 volt at ingition on and then plug to HEI.

Make sure the 12 volt at fuse box turns off at keyed ignition off or truck will never shut off.

1967
307
400 Turbo


Edited by Mja1975 on 11-11-18 07:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
jophes72 
Poster
Posts: 40

Loc: Huntington Beach CA
Reg: 07-19-16
11-11-18 10:18 PM - Post#2751105    
    In response to Mja1975

when i go put my test light on the ign terminals they all light up . the fuses light up . most of the fuses plus the other terminals dont light up with the ign when key is turned on. but the head lights signals and dome lights still work even though im not getting a light on tester when i touch fuse. and key is on. im sorry im tired, kinda rambling.



 
Mja1975 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 308
Mja1975
Age: 44
Loc: San Jose , Ca
Reg: 06-28-12
11-11-18 10:30 PM - Post#2751108    
    In response to jophes72

With the key turned to on you will get power, but while cranking power drops from the ignition. That why you run the wire from the starter the S terminal provides 12v during cranking to hei.

1967
307
400 Turbo


 
69_BOWTIE 
Senior Member
Posts: 1025

Loc: WYOMING,USA
Reg: 02-27-02
11-12-18 07:52 AM - Post#2751145    
    In response to Mja1975

I ran my power wire to the back of my ign. switch full 12 v while cranking.

2001 Silverado 4X4
2005 FXDWGI
69 CHEVY Short Step
63 IMPALA 2/DR HRDTOP 327


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3625

Reg: 04-15-05
11-12-18 04:56 PM - Post#2751190    
    In response to jophes72

"Run a wire from the S terminal on the starter then splice another wire from 12 volt at ingition on and then plug to HEI"

NO, do not use the S terminal to start power up the HEI, the S wire is THE STARTER MOTOR ACTUATION WIRE, and if connected to the BATT terminal on the distributor and to the IGN on the fuse box, the starter will continue to spin after the engine starts and the key is moved to run.

If you use the solenoid power up to add volts to the BATT HEI terminal, do so from the I, or R terminal (same terminal, two different names), and the system will work just fine.

From what I am reading, there is NO power to IGN with key in off position, nor at start. Only full battery volts at run. Some systems use that, no problem.

If that is what you have, the R to BATT addition will get you right with the start and run, WITHOUT having the starter over-run (starter runs continuously after engine starts)

Do check, but most GM starter mounted solenoids have the S terminal towords the engine block, R or I to the wheel.

ONE potential fly in the ointment, IF the starter is one of the "mini-starters", it may well NOT have an I or R terminal. It might only have an S terminal for starting the motor itself. MOST mini-starter manufacturers offer a solenoid that has both I & R, and S terminals, only have to ask for the right one when you get the starter from them. Most specialty houses won't have a clue about this manufacturer's solenoid option.



 
Mja1975 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 308
Mja1975
Age: 44
Loc: San Jose , Ca
Reg: 06-28-12
11-12-18 07:20 PM - Post#2751203    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Excuse me, didnt mean to mislead anyone. I confused "R" for "S".

Ignitionman directions are spot on follow those you'll be good to go.

1967
307
400 Turbo


Edited by Mja1975 on 11-12-18 07:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3625

Reg: 04-15-05
11-13-18 03:55 AM - Post#2751221    
    In response to Mja1975

GM has confused people for decades by identifying that one terminal by two different designations, R for Resistor, and/or I for Ignition.



 
jophes72 
Poster
Posts: 40

Loc: Huntington Beach CA
Reg: 07-19-16
11-13-18 08:02 AM - Post#2751244    
    In response to IgnitionMan

I found when I took cap off hei one of the prongs that harness plugs into moves up and didn’t get inserted into harness. Also I found ground from firewall to rear of engine block was unconnected. I think one of those made it fire up. Now back to my original problem. See new post. Thanks all for your time.



 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1343

Age: 58
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
01-20-19 10:39 AM - Post#2757795    
    In response to jophes72

Make sure you do away with the resistor wire that originally went to the coil. The HEI needs full 12 volts all the time.


1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
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