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Username Post: U-joints... can I get it apart?        (Topic#353829)
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4413

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
11-09-18 07:41 AM - Post#2750873    

My 2002 Express 3500 has a bad shake at speed that seems to be the U-joints. It kind of comes and goes at 65-ish but if I take it out of gear and let it coast I can still feel it.

What are the odds I'm going to break bolts off at the yoke trying to change at least that one? That was what happened to my old '89 Suburban; the holes went all the way through and let salt, etc. get into the threads. I haven't crawled far enough under this one to see what it looks like yet.

If one snaps off it means probably buy another yoke, even at $150 or so it's better than the labor to try to drill out the broken bolt and not kill the threads inside.

This has a carrier and 2-piece shaft, so I'll have to figure out how that even comes apart.

The pinion seal is leaking too but I don't think I can fix that myself, no way to get enough leverage on that big bolt without putting it on a lift. So if I know it's going to break stuff I will have to have it farmed out.

It annoys me though that $25 of parts may turn into $175 of parts plus paying someone for several hours labor.


Because this side has more traffic and the vans are still the older style mechanically up to 2002 I thought I'd ask here.



Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3001

Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
11-09-18 09:35 AM - Post#2750890    
    In response to Bill K.b

  • Bill K.b Said:

What are the odds I'm going to break bolts off at the yoke trying to change at least that one? That was what happened to my old '89 Suburban; the holes went all the way through and let salt, etc. get into the threads. I haven't crawled far enough under this one to see what it looks like yet.



I don't know... I've had mine off once and had no problem, but that was many miles and years ago. I would start spraying it down with something now, and for the next few days.

  • Quote:
This has a carrier and 2-piece shaft, so I'll have to figure out how that even comes apart.



Is the center bearing bad? Is it going to get replaced? If not, don't take it apart. If you do take it apart make sure the two halves go back together in the same orientation. They got balanced together.



99 K3500 RCLB


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1505

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
11-09-18 10:04 AM - Post#2750892    
    In response to Bill K.b

Tap the bolts lightly to shock the rust loose. And as mentioned, mark the shaft position to the center support, important to get that back in exactly where it was oe.



 
rockfangd 
"5th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2505
rockfangd
Age: 32
Loc: Utica ny
Reg: 04-13-10
11-09-18 06:39 PM - Post#2750937    
    In response to Shepherd

wow you sound just like me when I am getting ready to touch anything under our NY vehicles.
Makes things take alot longer than they need to.
Spray them down good. Tap the bolts and straps to help to dislodge surface rust and cross your fingers.


Old School GM fan FOREVER


 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4413

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
11-09-18 11:03 PM - Post#2750958    
    In response to rockfangd

If the bolts go into holes that are blind, closed at the other end, then I think it would come apart okay. This thing is rusted in some strange places but most of it isn't terrible.

For what all those parts cost I probably should do both joints and the carrier, none of them are very expensive.

But I also can say screw it and do nothing, I bought another 2002, a 2500, and so long as it drives home for me okay I will start running that and sell this one.

As I think on it, it seems to me I did U-joints on the '95 G30 I had for a year and that one did come apart okay. I think it's the same rearend as this, a 14 bolt semi-floater, at least Rock Auto says the yoke could be the same.

Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3001

Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
11-10-18 11:03 AM - Post#2750998    
    In response to Bill K.b

  • Bill K.b Said:

As I think on it, it seems to me I did U-joints on the '95 G30 I had for a year and that one did come apart okay. I think it's the same rearend as this, a 14 bolt semi-floater, at least Rock Auto says the yoke could be the same.



Really, only a semi-floating axle in a 1-ton?


99 K3500 RCLB


Edited by 454cid on 11-10-18 11:03 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4413

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
11-11-18 01:12 AM - Post#2751039    
    In response to 454cid

It's a van, they're all that way.

It decided to spring a leak from a trans line and in checking it out I found some frame rot, so spending any more money on it than to keep it going another week or two is probably moot. I'd have to hide or repair the damage to get it inspected again.

I'm kind of mad, I bought another 02 last week and this week the county here local has two up for bid - one with 38,000 miles and one with 30,000 miles. Same lower body rust and both stripper work vans, but at that odometer reading the engine and trans will far outlast the body and chassis.

Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
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