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Username Post: New brake line install?        (Topic#353715)
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-01-18 03:37 PM - Post#2750198    

I have all new brake lines for my 65 and could use some tips from you that have done this.
It's my first time.
That long rear one looks like it's going to be a pain!
I have the level air line running along with it,so even worse.
Car is up and blocked,ready for me to get at it!
Thanks in advance!
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 




Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 857

Age: 58
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
11-01-18 07:20 PM - Post#2750218    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

Looks like it shouldn't give you any trouble Mike
https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...

Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
6T5 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 151
6T5
Age: 66
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
11-02-18 02:26 AM - Post#2750231    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

A little PB blaster on all fittings prior to removal can be helpful...

...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
toro455 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 511
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
11-02-18 05:54 AM - Post#2750241    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

Ed mentioned PB Blaster. On my daily driver, which is winter driven, I had to use the MAP gas torch. I could tell without it there was a good chance of destroying something I wanted to save. With it what a piece of cake. I was initially reluctant to use it with the fluid inside but I knew I would be essentially replacing any fluid which was close to where I was working. If you use something like that it's a good idea to clean any residual oil or combustibles away, have a metal mask behind it and/or a wet rag on any nearby sensitive areas. Having a fire extinguisher near is a good idea as well.

What type of lines did you buy? I mean material. For stainless sometimes the flares take a little more massaging to seat. You can tighten, back-off and tighten a couple of times.

I didn't read through the entire link which Ryan sent. I think that link addressed what I took as your main question regarding how hard is it to get the lines in the proper place but if you've never done it before you should read some general guidelines.

Some points are:
-Make certain you are monitoring the master cylinder so it doesn't go way down while your working.
-Bleed the farthest away from the master first.
-When you bleed the GM guideline is to go slow down and slow up on the brake pedal (they actually defined slow in one manual I read).
-If you're replacing entire lines opening a bleeder and gravity, while monitoring the master, can help get the lines filled. I also like using a Mighty Vac hand operated vacuum device. That can quickly tell you if you have a leak and it will help fill the lines quickly.
-If you swapped your rear drums for disc brakes it is critical that the bleeder is the high point. We were chasing this on an aftermarket set-up for a while; seemed bled but after a day the brake light would come back on and it felt like there was a little air in the system. We had to remove the caliper from its mounting while leaving it hydraulically connected. That solved the issue.
-Brake fluid is like the worlds best paint remover so be careful where it goes and clean it up. The Mighty Vac isn't perfect (or maybe the operator in my case ) but having the soft line over the bleeder certainly helps.

Good luck,
Scott




Edited by toro455 on 11-20-18 12:36 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-02-18 09:35 AM - Post#2750263    
    In response to toro455

I bought the In-Line Tube set for disc brakes.
My long rear line went bad (rust hole)a while back and the car has been sitting since.
So,I'm replacing the rears now,then the fronts.
Then,the master and discs.
I sprayed it all down with penetrating this morning.
And,yes,I may have to use heat on the fittings.They are pretty rusty looking.
I appreciate the advice and help!
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 
Whitetail Hunter 
Contributor
Posts: 144
Whitetail Hunter
Age: 50
Loc: Green Bay Wisconsin
Reg: 03-28-15
11-02-18 10:12 AM - Post#2750264    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

Only thing I can add. Wear rubber type gloves. Dont let brake fluid sit on any paint. If you get fluid on something (fenders) rinse with water right away.



 
aghaga 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2169
aghaga
Age: 64
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
11-02-18 10:42 AM - Post#2750266    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

I would highly recommend using line wrenches and not normal open end wrenches on the fittings.



 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-02-18 01:46 PM - Post#2750276    
    In response to aghaga

I have a set of line wrenches.
Right now it's all soaking in trans fluid and acetone.
Will soak it again tomorrow and then maybe Sunday see if they will break loose!
Is there a particular,easy way to get the long line in?
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 
jayoldschool 
Poster
Posts: 12

Reg: 09-03-18
11-02-18 03:51 PM - Post#2750291    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

If you're removing bad lines to be replaced, do yourself a favour and cut the line right next to the fitting. This allows you to use a 6 point socket to get the fitting. No PB or MAPP needed. Line wrench if you need to reuse the line (without cutting, of course).

Jason

65 Impala convertible 327/250 Maderia Maroon/black California black plate car


Edited by jayoldschool on 11-02-18 03:52 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-02-18 04:46 PM - Post#2750294    
    In response to jayoldschool

Going to put in all new lines,so yes,I will cut the old ones off at the fitting.I have propane and acetelene if necessary.
I just need to save the brass blocks.
The socket is a good idea!
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 
Whitetail Hunter 
Contributor
Posts: 144
Whitetail Hunter
Age: 50
Loc: Green Bay Wisconsin
Reg: 03-28-15
11-02-18 04:55 PM - Post#2750296    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

Maybe obvious but. If you use heat on the wheel cylinders be careful or you may melt the rubber seals. I always heated the fitting and worked it back and forth until it would spin out.



 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-08-18 08:20 PM - Post#2750845    
    In response to Whitetail Hunter

O.K.
Sunday,I cut the lines at the fittings.
Then I took Jason's advice and used a 12 point socket on a 1/4" drive and they all came loose very easily!
I already have new hoses and the lines fit very well across the rear end.
The long line from front to rear was not easy at all!
I had to remove the trans crossmember or rather,I turned it out of the way.It won't come out because of the 2.5' dual exhaust.Then,removed the speedo cable and parking brake cable.Plus,I had to lower the automatic shifter bracket from the frame.
Got the line in and found it was 2.5" too long to fit on the swing arm crossmember.Had to add an off-set in it to shorten it.
Now,I have another problem!
My brake hose is 3/16" and the line is 1/4".Won't screw together!
I called In-Line Tubes help line.
Very nice and helpful guy!
The explanation is-
The line was designed for disc brakes.They used 1/4" because disc brakes became available in 1967 and In-Line Tube used it as a model and made their line sets to this.
After all the talk,they are sending me a free adapter for the connection,with free shipping.And,I needed a couple of other fittings,which I paid for and they will add them to the free fitting and no shipping fee on all.
So,when the extra parts come in,I'll finish the rear.
The extra fittings are so I can connect the new rear 1/4"(It is 1/4" line at the front but has a 3/8" threaded fitting on it for the differential pressure valve that I don't have installed yet)line to my front 3/16" brass block,allowing me to use the car until I can buy the rest of the disc brake set.
So,I'm satisfied with it all so far!
I also had to replace the trams mount and the o-ring on the speedo gear housing,so the trans crossmember had to come loose anyway.
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-17-18 07:19 AM - Post#2751600    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

Well,the parts came in and will work.
But,I've decided to use a 67 dual master cylinder after some research and great help from a fellow named Ed! My old master is still good but,I wanted a dual circuit system till I can afford the rest of the disc brake assembly.
Front line and flex hoses are in and fit well.
So,I removed it all from a 67 parts car I have ( master,distribution block and lines) and ordered a new 67 master cylinder.I will pick it up this morning at O'Reilley's.
So,on to the rest of the brake project.And,maybe get it all done pretty soon!
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-18-18 07:19 PM - Post#2751736    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

The new 67 power brake master fits my old booster on the 65 perfect!
Both the old 65 and the new 67 masters have the same depth hole in the rear.The piston in my 65 booster is about 1,3/4" long.
I'm now waiting for the paint to dry on the master before installing it and one more line fitting.
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


Edited by 100 CHEVY on 11-18-18 07:20 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
6T5 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 151
6T5
Age: 66
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
11-19-18 10:57 AM - Post#2751792    
    In response to 100 CHEVY

Good for you, it sounds like your plan is coming together nicely...

...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
100 CHEVY 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 6402
100 CHEVY
Loc: Helena,Missippi,U.S.A.
Reg: 12-09-04
11-19-18 04:18 PM - Post#2751825    
    In response to 6T5

Thanks Ed!
I got it all put together today.
Used my mighty vac to pull the fluid thru the lines.
Tomorrow,I'll continue to bleed the lines and try to get pedal pressure.
Mike.

"You gonna leave it like that?
http://www.picturetrail.com/100chevy


 




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