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Username Post: Advice on where to cut quarter panel        (Topic#353436)
60Impala1837 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 125
60Impala1837
Loc: Phoenix
Reg: 07-06-13
10-13-18 07:07 PM - Post#2748605    

After replacing entire rear deck under tail lights, I'm finally getting ready to install new trunk floor, trunk drop down, and lower quarter. Any advice on where to cut lower quarter from those more experienced than me would be greatly appreciated.

Option1 gets me to good metal on the original quarter and was where I was first thinking I'd cut.

Option2 would be just under the rear bump out

Option3 would be just under the original body line

(YES - that is a combination of Paper+Bondo+Fiberglass in the lower quarter a PO used)

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Jim
'60 Impala Sport Coupe, 283/pg
Former:
'65 BelAir (355 / 350 hp)
'68 Caprice (donor)
My Pictures


 




Jens 
58-60 Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 7116
Jens
Loc: Iowa.
Reg: 04-21-02
10-14-18 02:04 PM - Post#2748659    
    In response to 60Impala1837

In a case like that cut the least amount of bad/rusty metal and don't make any more work for yourself than you have to.
If you don't already have one, try purchasing an inexpensive air flange/punch tool and practice crimping/punching up some scrap metal.
Also when you skip around on your stitch and plug welds hit the area immediately following with compressed air to avoid warping.





 
stevelegel 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 100
stevelegel
Loc: Detroit MI
Reg: 09-27-09
10-14-18 03:33 PM - Post#2748663    
    In response to Jens

I kept the most amount of original metal and fabricated the lower , less detailed corner from flat stock.

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60Impala1837 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 125
60Impala1837
Loc: Phoenix
Reg: 07-06-13
10-14-18 05:33 PM - Post#2748677    
    In response to Jens

Thanks the help Jens. I’ve been using lots of plug welds to braces and butt welds for rear deck patches under tail lights.
This is my first quarter panel and thought butt welds were what was normally done but if flanges are the best way to go, it’s time to learn how to use flanges.

Do you normally flange/punch the patch panel horizontal edge and also the vertical edge near wheel or just use butt weld there?

Jim

Jim
'60 Impala Sport Coupe, 283/pg
Former:
'65 BelAir (355 / 350 hp)
'68 Caprice (donor)
My Pictures


 
stevelegel 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 100
stevelegel
Loc: Detroit MI
Reg: 09-27-09
10-14-18 05:56 PM - Post#2748684    
    In response to 60Impala1837

I flange it where I can. I use sheet metal screws to secure it. I start with one screw, and make any modifications and add one screw at a time though the original good metal outside the repair through the offset flange up under the original good metal, and screw through the two. That way, I always have a known spot to work from. The flanging tool will make the correct offset so your repair panel will be in the same profile as the adjacent original metal. Where I can, I weld inside and out and slowly close the seam, taking out one screw at a time and welding in the hole. I grind a lot after, though




 
60Impala1837 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 125
60Impala1837
Loc: Phoenix
Reg: 07-06-13
10-14-18 06:00 PM - Post#2748686    
    In response to stevelegel

Steve - Nice work on that panel. I went ahead and bought a repop thinkkng it would easier but I’m about to find out if that’s true when I try to dry fit everything.

Jim
'60 Impala Sport Coupe, 283/pg
Former:
'65 BelAir (355 / 350 hp)
'68 Caprice (donor)
My Pictures


 
stevelegel 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 100
stevelegel
Loc: Detroit MI
Reg: 09-27-09
10-15-18 04:36 AM - Post#2748711    
    In response to 60Impala1837

Dry fit for sure..consider putting in a screw, so you always have one exact point of reference for each change. For every action, there is a reaction when you bend metal.

thank you for compliment.

I'm a Dentist...we fix things. Funny about metal work, it's like fixing a cavity, only bigger, dirtier. But you remove decay (rust) and replace it with something that functions like original, and if it is in an area that shows, try make your best work not show...natural tooth = original fender!



Edited by stevelegel on 10-15-18 04:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 




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