MoboMac
Contributor
Posts: 363
Reg: 08-22-11
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10-05-18 11:43 AM - Post#2747914
I have a basically stock 63.....but previous owner added a 70's HEI.....
As I recall.....The feed wire should be upgraded to a heavier gauge.....
This was NOT done....
I'm curious to know what symptom/issues...would be caused by retaining the stock small gauge wire...
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 turbo38s10
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1586
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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10-05-18 01:25 PM - Post#2747919
In response to MoboMac
One is I don'tthink your getting a full 12 volts to the coil as the stock wire has a piece of resistence wire on it at the coil end I believe. Also undersized wire can burn up. Check the voltage with the ignition on and also when cranking and runnig to be sure.
Edited by turbo38s10 on 10-05-18 01:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 raycow
Honored Member
Posts: 27789
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
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10-05-18 01:55 PM - Post#2747921
In response to MoboMac
.....I'm curious to know what symptom/issues...would be caused by retaining the stock small gauge wire...
I have never needed heavier wiring on any of my installs. There shouldn't be any issues with the stock gauge wiring as long as the installation was done properly, but note that stock gauge is not the same thing as the stock WIRE, which is a resistance wire that should definitely not be used for the HEI.
Now as for your car, which I don't presently know anything about, here is how to find out. Connect a multimeter (set on volts) to the 12V input terminal on your HEI. Start the engine and rev it up enough to make sure the alternator is charging. Note what voltage reading you are showing and then disconnect the meter from the HEI and connect it to any convenient point where you can get a battery voltage reading with the engine running at the same speed. Please post both numbers.
Ray
| Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive. |
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MoboMac
Contributor
Posts: 363
Reg: 08-22-11
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10-05-18 03:20 PM - Post#2747929
In response to raycow
I'm not very handy....with a voltmeter.....Prolly have at least 4 of them....and it IS on my list of things...to learn.
Every time I look at one......I see too many option/choices......and really have NO clue....where to begin...
I really think I need to add a proper feed wire....without resistance.....if I am going to keep the HEI....
Am I going to the fuse block....or ignition switch?
Thanks
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Shepherd
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1454
Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
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10-05-18 05:02 PM - Post#2747933
In response to MoboMac
Ign switch for 12v in the run and crank position, eliminate the resistor wire.
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IgnitionMan
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3428
Reg: 04-15-05
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10-05-18 05:08 PM - Post#2747934
In response to MoboMac
Everyone here knows I do ignition work, so, all of you detractors, please do not get pushed out of shape over it. THIS AIN'T AN AD.
As far as full 12 volts power for the HEI, 12 gauge wire, and if the fuse box has an IGN or IGNITION terminal, use a volt meter, red meter wire to the terminal, black wire to a good ground, and read the volts in both ignition switch positions run, and start.
To test start, I suggest removing the power wire to the HEI, so you get the voltage as the engine is spun over. The voltage difference between run and start should be fairly close. If you have, say, 12,80 volts in run, start should be about 11.50 or so.
IF there is no volts in start, you can still get start voltage from the same terminal on the solenoid gave for the stock point system, R to coil +.
As far as the full volts power wire from the IGN to coil +, that is where the 12 gauge wire is used, and find a nice, cozy place to feed the wire through the firewall, and run it along the original loom.
Although some have actually used the stock power wire with the resistor in it, with the resistor in place, but jumper wired between both ballast resistor terminals, the wire gauge is too small, and you should then do the IGN to coil + wire bypass.
If you get no volts in either fuse box positi9on, or, there is NO IGN or IGNITION terminal, get back with us, and we can talk you through different ways to get there.
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gofastwclass
Contributor
Posts: 946
Loc: In the garage
Reg: 08-19-14
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10-05-18 05:52 PM - Post#2747939
In response to IgnitionMan
Although some have actually used the stock power wire with the resistor in it, with the resistor in place, but jumper wired between both ballast resistor terminals, the wire gauge is too small, and you should then do the IGN to coil + wire bypass.
I agree. The factory ignition wire is too small for an HEI - even without the ballast resistor. HEI ignitions need a good 12V power source or they will run like poo. I've seen it happen.
If you notice the stock wiring for an HEI is a larger wire than what these vehicles use for their points ignition. You need voltage but you also need current. I believe in factory trim HEI ignitions are powered by a 12 gauge wire.
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IgnitionMan
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3428
Reg: 04-15-05
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10-05-18 08:09 PM - Post#2747949
In response to gofastwclass
I've seen some that use a 10 gauge wire, but for most coil in cap HEI's that are in good (wow, that is a comedic statement) condition, the 12 gauge wire will work the system.
The biggest problem ISN'T the HEI module, as one can see from the gauge of the red wire from the BATT buss bar on the cap, down to the module. If we look at the buss bars in the cap from the coil, they are significantly more beefy than the module power wire to run the nuclear hot temperature epoxy coil in the cap.
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YOUNG57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1068
Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 12-06-10
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10-06-18 07:29 AM - Post#2747982
In response to IgnitionMan
The easiest and simplest solution is to replace the existing wire with a 12 AWG wire along the same route and to the SAME terminals, i.e. terminal on the HEI cap to the terminal on the back of the ignition switch (or wherever).
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IgnitionMan
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3428
Reg: 04-15-05
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10-06-18 05:44 PM - Post#2748004
In response to YOUNG57
Usually, when the IGN terminal is hot in both start and run, THAT is the easiest way to do it. This from doing it that way for over 40 years.
Not to say it is the only, or best way, but it has never failed, is easy to do, and doesn't change any wiring, you can leave the resisted wire in the car if you need to go back to a resisted system for any reason, just tape that gircuit off and tuck it into the over engine wiring loom, add the full voltage wire from the IN terminal, millions done that way by everyone in creation, and, the known universe, NO problem.
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MoboMac
Contributor
Posts: 363
Reg: 08-22-11
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10-06-18 08:51 PM - Post#2748019
In response to IgnitionMan
Thanks for everybodys input....
I will install the new heavier gauge wire....and report back....
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 kingkreeton
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1169
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
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10-07-18 06:39 AM - Post#2748038
In response to MoboMac
They guys at American Auto-wire told me to use a 12 gauge wire for the ignition wire when I did my conversion.
Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed
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