Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
American Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power WindowsRain Gear Wiper Systems
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy



Username Post: Electronic Ignition        (Topic#352362)
Dave in VA 
Contributor
Posts: 163
Dave in VA
Age: 68
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
08-06-18 11:52 AM - Post#2742108    

I've seen these modules on Nat Chevy and Chevs 40's. What would be the benefit of this?

Stock 216, except for the split manifold. The car runs great, but runs a little rough at idle. New plugs and wires, but I haven't been inside the distributor or done anything with the valves. 12v conversion that doesn't appear to be a hack job. 12v Delco generator and 2 wire coil.

"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


 

Chevs of the 40s

drtyler 
Contributor
Posts: 530

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
08-06-18 12:17 PM - Post#2742111    
    In response to Dave in VA

If it is the typical Pertronix unit, it replaces the points and condenser. They don't necessarily improve performance over quality points with proper gap.

They do reduce the maintenance level, which certainly has value. And quality points & condensers are harder to come by now.



 
Dean50 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1295
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
08-06-18 12:28 PM - Post#2742115    
    In response to Dave in VA

Hi Dave
Open up that distributor and file and regap pointe with a matchbook or replace your points. Replace the condenser as well. See if that helps the idle. Quick and cheap test. You should also put a dab of lubricant on the wick that runs against the distributor shaft.
Good luck.

Dean50



 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 197

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
08-06-18 01:32 PM - Post#2742127    
    In response to Dean50

did you adjust the carb idle mixture?



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4403
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
08-06-18 06:03 PM - Post#2742160    
    In response to drtyler

Hi Guys, This has been covered in detail before but there are actually two pluses to going electronic switched ignition, whatever type.

As stated above; once set, they stay set and will switch extremely accurately from idle to about 8000 rpm. Unlike points they don't loose performance from points wear, corrosion or condenser deterioration.

The big plus and this is the bit that changes the ignition totally is they allow the use of much more primary current, which gives you much fatter sparks.
This is built in with HEI and achieved with most others buy matching the coil to the switching gear.

This normally is a rise of secondary output from 18-23kV up to 45kV. This is why they start so easy, idle smoother and can run wider plug gaps to improve the burn overall.

Aftermarket kits don't fix worn distributors with sloppy advances. But they can be hidden completely in a stock looking setup.

I use Pertronix kits as I have found them reliable and they have a huge range. I match coil performance, but haven't used one of their matched ones yet. The reason I do this is the advance curve of the distributor stays as it was. Not sure if the aftermarket adapted HEI have the same advance curves. No one is prepared/able to tell me their specs.

Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 08-06-18 06:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
50sChevys 
"16th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2116
50sChevys
Age: 83
Loc: Central Texas
Reg: 03-23-02
08-06-18 08:18 PM - Post#2742169    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi


As stated, this subject has been covered in the past pretty much from A to Z. Have nothing to add that hasn’t already been covered several times one way or another.

I like them and agree basically with everything stated by KIWI.

50s Chevys http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/245196 4...


 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18649
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-07-18 04:14 AM - Post#2742188    
    In response to 50sChevys

  • 50sChevys Said:

As stated, this subject has been covered in the past pretty much from A to Z. Have nothing to add that hasn’t already been covered several times one way or another.

I like them and agree basically with everything stated by KIWI.


After spending some time bending over the fender of the 52 in near 100 degree heat, I went for the Pertronix unit and am glad I did.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13903
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
08-07-18 01:34 PM - Post#2742231    
    In response to 2blu52

I've ran Petronix on two 235's and one 261 since 1990. Love 'em.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27960
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-07-18 02:18 PM - Post#2742238    
    In response to Dave in VA

I have Pertronix on everything of mine which originally came with points and I will never go back.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Dave in VA 
Contributor
Posts: 163
Dave in VA
Age: 68
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
08-07-18 03:15 PM - Post#2742244    
    In response to raycow

This all sounds very good. I assume that my existing coil would be OK?

"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27960
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-07-18 04:00 PM - Post#2742251    
    In response to Dave in VA

I used my stock coil with the Pertronix.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18649
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-07-18 04:20 PM - Post#2742256    
    In response to raycow

  • raycow Said:
I used my stock coil with the Pertronix.

Ray


So did I. Talked to the tech guy first and he said yes.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4403
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
08-07-18 04:27 PM - Post#2742258    
    In response to Dave in VA

Hi Dave, That assumption is the mistake most folks make.

Your original coil has its primary current deliberately restricted to about 2.3 Amps to protect the points. This means the coils has a deliberately high internal resistance of say 3-5 Ohms.

This coil is never going to produce the 45kV you could have. Same coil will give you same spark.
Also if its internal resistance is too far off the mark it can fry the Pertronix unit.

The installation instructions will tell you the coil impedance (Ohms) for a coil match. The last one I fitted used a 1.5 Ohms.
Halving of the resistance means double the current flow.
So in that application, the correct coil raised the maximum spark from 20 to 40 kV.

Do not try and use a 0.6 Ohm, so called 55kV, coil on a road vehicle. Also you may notice that some makers use non standard values to ensure you buy a complete package from them.

Electronic ignition does not use/need the ballast ignition system, and a ballast coil will be the wrong voltage. Also the start wiring will need to be converted back so the coil is power fed on start and run.

If you are not sure use the tech lines.

Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 08-07-18 04:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18649
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-07-18 06:55 PM - Post#2742290    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

  • Bel Air kiwi Said:
Hi Dave, That assumption is the mistake most folks make.

Your original coil has its primary current deliberately restricted to about 2.3 Amps to protect the points. This means the coils has a deliberately high internal resistance of say 3-5 Ohms.

This coil is never going to produce the 45kV you could have. Same coil will give you same spark.
Also if its internal resistance is too far off the mark it can fry the Pertronix unit.

The installation instructions will tell you the coil impedance (Ohms) for a coil match. The last one I fitted used a 1.5 Ohms.
Halving of the resistance means double the current flow.
So in that application, the correct coil raised the maximum spark from 20 to 40 kV.

Do not try and use a 0.6 Ohm, so called 55kV, coil on a road vehicle. Also you may notice that some makers use non standard values to ensure you buy a complete package from them.

Electronic ignition does not use/need the ballast ignition system, and a ballast coil will be the wrong voltage. Also the start wiring will need to be converted back so the coil is power fed on start and run.

If you are not sure use the tech lines.

Cheers Kiwi




I called Pertronix and discussed this with the tech folks (as I said above) It was not a problem with them to use the stock coil with the Pertronix running a stock 216. I never had a problem of any kind related to coil operation. I did find that a battery that had less than a full charge on occasion wouldnot allow for 5 plus volts to the coil causin g a no start problem until you let up on the starter button then away it goes.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
westsiderider 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 106
westsiderider
Loc: Santa Barbara Ca.
Reg: 04-29-15
08-07-18 10:24 PM - Post#2742301    
    In response to 2blu52

I just installed Pertronix ignitor 2 in my stock distributor last week , I used their coil , flame thrower 2 , no complaints yet , so far so good for my 1959 chevy 235 engine.



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4403
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
08-09-18 04:54 PM - Post#2742539    
    In response to 2blu52

Hi Blu2, That will be the case sometimes. The point I am making is that you need to match the coil primary resistance to the control unit.

If the control unit is points it has a low current limit to prevent points damage. About 2.3 Amps.
To hold the current down to this level the coil primary is wired to a specific resistance to achieve this.



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
4spd409 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 585
4spd409
Loc: Sherwood ND
Reg: 10-10-02
08-12-18 11:33 AM - Post#2742843    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Just bought a Pertronix for my V8 61. Instructions say not to remove ballast resitor and stock coil is ok but for best performance use their coil.

61 Impala Bubbletop


 
Dave in VA 
Contributor
Posts: 163
Dave in VA
Age: 68
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
08-12-18 12:38 PM - Post#2742856    
    In response to 4spd409

I've ordered their ignition and the coil that they recommended. Also, new cap and rotor. We'll see how it goes.

I'm just trying to make this car as dependable and trouble free as possible. I hope I'm headed in the right direction.

"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


 
Dave in VA 
Contributor
Posts: 163
Dave in VA
Age: 68
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
08-20-18 11:07 AM - Post#2743764    
    In response to Dave in VA

UPDATE--I installed the module and the Pertronix 3ohm coil today. Easy install, and the car started right up. Runs smooth with a little hesitation off idle, but never got it warmed up. Without the heat riser, it takes longer to get it warm. It's raining, and I'm not leaving the garage.

I've got a new cap and rotor on order, and I guess I'll check the timing. I've got a light, but haven't used it in over 40 years. Tips welcome.




"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18649
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-20-18 01:37 PM - Post#2743784    
    In response to Dave in VA

With the Pertronix unit in my 52 with the 216 Ifound it ran better after I retarded timing a little. A 40 year old timing is probably not real good any more. I have two of them and consider then Antiques. I purchased a newer one and use an old 12 volt battery for the power source. Much better that the old units which worked pretty good in a dark garage with the hood down!

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27960
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-20-18 02:09 PM - Post#2743790    
    In response to 2blu52

Are you saying the 12V battery is used only for the Pertronix and rest of the car is still on 6V?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18649
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-20-18 02:46 PM - Post#2743793    
    In response to raycow

  • raycow Said:
Are you saying the 12V battery is used only for the Pertronix and rest of the car is still on 6V?

Ray


No it is the power source for a modern timing light. Ignition still 6V. A 40 year old timing light sounds like it could be one which hooked into the #1 wire between the plug and the end of the wire.


"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4403
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
08-20-18 03:41 PM - Post#2743795    
    In response to Dave in VA

Hi Dave, I doubt the off idle stumble will be ignition performance. It may be timing but the spark load at lower revs on normal mixtures is not so high.

As you mentioned it could be that the manifold and head is still cold. Alternately if your carburettor has a progress port this may be clogged, or if your carb spindle is badly worn you may notice the leanness under these conditions.

When timing these engines by timing light you need to have a tachometer as both advance systems begin quite early after idle.

You should now be able to open up your spark plug gaps. Say 35-40 thou. You may also need to check your leads as their insulation needs to be up to scratch.

I would start with the standard ignition timing mark and then begin adding a couple of degrees at a time. The octane rating of modern fuels will allow this. But road test it each time to avoid detonation. When you get problems back off to the last setting and try that.

The best setting you get on a vacuum gauge for an engine just running is usually too much when you add load and driving conditions.

Cheers kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
Dave in VA 
Contributor
Posts: 163
Dave in VA
Age: 68
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
08-21-18 09:53 AM - Post#2743891    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

OK. Timing light on order. I will check the timing and retard if necessary. I've got an old dwell tach. Where do I hook up the clips? Battery + and coil - ?

Took the car for a drive. It runs great, very smooth up to 55, and past 60. It won't see much driving above 60, tho.

There's always been a stumble/hesitation/jerkin g when driving slow in 3rd gear--under 15-20--like when slowing to approach a stop. That problem is now gone. Slow in 3rd to 10-15, and take off smooth as silk. Much much better than with the old points.

For now, product rating A.

Pertronix 1168LS module and 40511 3ohm coil

So does the EI do away with the vacuum advance? Trying to understand...

"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


Edited by Dave in VA on 08-21-18 04:56 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18649
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-22-18 04:14 AM - Post#2743966    
    In response to Dave in VA

tach one wire to coil the other to ground on the block. stumble when driving in high at slow speeds normal, not enough power. vacuum advance still operative.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


Edited by 2blu52 on 08-22-18 04:15 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4403
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
08-23-18 01:56 PM - Post#2744131    
    In response to Dave in VA

Hi Dave, The Pertronix has replaced the points and condenser as the switch or trigger for the coil. That is all.
This new switch or trigger allows for a new more powerful coil, which you have.

Everything else about the distributor still functions and looks like before. So both mechanical and vacuum advance are as they were, whether they were in good condition or not.

The electrical pathway of the secondary from the coil, through the cap, across the rotor and out to the correct leads is just as before.

However, if you have tired parts there, the extra punch from the new coil will find the weakest links and jump to earth.

As you open up the plug gap you increase the power required to spark across the gap. The reason for doing this is the bigger spark is better at consistently firing the mixture, be it at idle, starting, or high revs.

As you now have the ignition power to do this you are in a position to utilize this ignition power.
It is no longer the weak link in the system.

For those not looking for an authentic look, I believe it would be cheaper to get an aftermarket HEI distributor complete, rather than reconditioning your old distributor and fitting a Pertronix or similar. Both end up at about the same performance level. (40-45kV secondary.)
The only thing I can't verify with an aftermarket adapted HEI is if the ignition advance works exactly the same.

Cheers Kiwi


48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 08-23-18 01:57 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Deve 
Poster
Posts: 7

Reg: 06-15-13
08-27-18 04:54 PM - Post#2744614    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Great thread! There is a lot more to this issue and it has been fun doing the research and making an attempt to understand everything surrounding these issues.

The GM HEI (12 volts only) was designed to really change the entire dynamic of ignition systems. Its 3.5 ms ramp and fire circuit was way faster than the stock system and enables us to go from a maximum of 12,000 volts to each plug in the firing order to 45K in the same amount of time. Between that and its adjustable dwell based on engine RPM and you have a far superior ignition system.

So, while Pertronix is great and really does a wonderful job of replacing points, it does not provide the full package of the GM HEI system. I am just trying to be informative and NOT self serving. Tom Langdon sells a wonderful V6 HEI distributor for our Stovebolts and others sell HEI Distributors that fit our engines. Great stuff!

So being someone who has done a lot of research concerning this issue, all of my 216, 235 and 261 engines are equipped with GM HEI and the performance is nothing short of amazing. Does it add horsepower? NO. Does it run cleanly and efficiently at any RPM? YES. Does the 45K it fires the coil at more efficiently burn leaner fuel mixtures? Does it eliminate hesitation due to slight timing issues? YES and YES.

When I am asked about how to increase performance of these engines, I tell everyone, concern yourself more with cleaner running. PCV, HEI, and good oil filtration will keep that $4000 average (US) cost of rebuilding your engine at bay for the longest time. Dual exhaust, Dual Carbs, etc, etc.. doesn't add enough cost effective horsepower because even the best '848 head does not displace enough air/fuel to change the performance characteristics with these supposed horsepower upgrades.

Still, think about the wonders of that 6 cylinder engine in its torque characteristics, it's smoothness and its longevity. The Stovebolt is an amazing engine and given its ability to do 80mph with the correct transmission and rear end combo, there just isn't any reason to go for MORE.

Check out http://devestechnet.com for more specific information. http://devestechnet.com/Home/HEIgnition includes some very in-depth testing data on HEI that may be of help for those of you who have converted to 12 volts. As always, just trying to be of help. The site is there to just give back and provide inventions, information and cut through the nonsense. The HEI link tells you how to make the HEI system using your stock Distributor all by yourself! Have fun!

Deve Krehbiel
http://www.devestechnet.com

Check out my Youtube channel for other pertinent Stovebolt engine videos.



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4403
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
08-27-18 06:52 PM - Post#2744632    
    In response to Deve

Hi Deve, Thanks for your valuable input.

I see from your data that the GM HEI is working on on 5.5 amps in the primary. Which like all the other variants like Pertronix etc, is the key performance difference between late model ignition and points sets. And of course mechanical reliability.

In your work with adapting GM HEI units do you use the same advance curves as the stock engine?

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
Deve 
Poster
Posts: 7

Reg: 06-15-13
08-28-18 04:03 AM - Post#2744664    
    In response to Deve

The engines stats are so close to the same between the modern 6 cylinders (of the mid-70's) and the earlier models that its not possible to tell the difference. Since I have been doing this, I know of at least a 100 cars and trucks that have that setup on them. The owners swear by them. It's the GM HEI module that is making them feel that way. By removing the resistance (ballast resistor and much lower coil ohm value) they were able to speed things up. GM did a really ingenious thing in that system. I really like that Hemmings article. It tells the story better than I can.

https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2008/11/ The-...



 
Dave in VA 
Contributor
Posts: 163
Dave in VA
Age: 68
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
08-28-18 10:22 AM - Post#2744696    
    In response to Deve

You know, I'd probably do this if I had a muscle car, or mine was modified. I'm not sure that I would benefit from the High Energy part of the HEI. My car is an older refurb, a solid survivor car, with the original engine. All stock, except for the split OEM exhaust manifold. 97,000 miles. A driver quality car.

The Pertronix cleared up the low speed stumble, and overall, makes the car run smoother.

"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber

U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)

1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2016 Equinox LTZ
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2


 

Chevs of the 40s

Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

1163 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.065 seconds.   Total Queries: 16   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 05:25 AM
Top