Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella InteriorsAmerican Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power WindowsRain Gear Wiper Systems
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy





 Page 1 of 3 123
Username Post: New Owner Seeks Wisdom - 1965 SS 396 Impala Convertible        (Topic#352335)
Estimated Prophet 
Poster
Posts: 32

Loc: Oakland, CA
Reg: 07-28-18
08-05-18 07:53 AM - Post#2741997    

Hello friends,

For about a month now, I've been the new owner of this 1965 SS 396 Impala convertible that I bought on Bring-A-Trailer. It was time I joined the party. My father owned some vintage cars during my childhood, and my brothers and I caught the American muscle bug (one brother has a 66 Galaxie, the other a 68 Camaro.

I've encountered a few things I need to fix with the car. Nothing major. If you have ideas, I'm all ears. I'm aware that I may find some solutions to these problems through a search. I'm listing them all here though just to keep a record.

1. The trim tag is just flat wrong (there are pics in the link). I'd like to reproduce a correct tag but I'm not sure how to go about having a complete and correct one. Should I simply go through an options list and check off which ones I have?

2. The stuffing in the rear bench is so old that it's solidified and is now crumbling onto the floor/carpet being the front seats. I'm going to pull the bench and take it to a reupholster shop. I'm hoping that I get lucky and find a build sheet when I take it out. Question: can I take the bench out without removing the front seats?

3. I've got some surface rust in the trunk. I've been thinking about sanding it off with a dremel, then priming and spray painting with a similar colored rustoleum (grey). Good idea?

4. In the car, the SS "plates" in the door and above the armrests have a foil that is peeling off exposing the plastic underneath. Do I need to get new ones or can I repair them?

5. My headlights don't work in the normal position, but all four come on when I turn on the brights. I've seen posts about this. Will investigate. The far right taillight does not work either. I've replaced the bulb but issue remains.

6. I am interested in getting a second brake fluid reservoir to backup the first should it fail. My brother is considering this for his Galaxie. Seems like a reasonable thing to do. Thoughts? I'm also considering adding a coolant reservoir (see below).

7. Drum brakes all around. I drive precious cargo (wife, a 7 year old and a 5 year old). Should I convert the brakes to disc? All 4 wheels or can I get away with 2?

8. Radio does not work. I know nothing else about it. I'm going to troubleshoot this but it's a low priority.

9. The turn signal lever does not return on left-hand turns. This is a pain because the lever is so sensitive that when I put it back, I often wind up putting it all the way to the right-hand turn signal and then I gotta fiddle with it to put it back. Not something I want to do when I'm shifting gears and paying attention to traffic. I've seen videos for possible fixes. Ideas welcome.

10. Bought a matching pair of period-correct California license plates. They're being refurbished right now. Can't wait to put them on. I got plates with my son's initials. Took me a while to find them (popped up on eBay). It may be his car some day so I'm pretty excited about this.

Some things learned:

A. The key comes out of the ignition regardless of position. I can pull the key out while driving down the freeway and the car will stay on. The problem I had was that I was used to turning the car off by turning the key all the way and pulling it out. Well, I had a hell of a time trying to figure out why my battery kept dying. I killed one and bought another and god dangit my multimeter kept indicating I had a drain on my battery. Turns out I was turning the key all the way to ACC when I was pulling it out. I turn it to OFF now and no drain. Problem fixed. Cost $0. My kind of problem. Should I fix the key lock? Even for security reasons?

B. When getting a "new" car, check the radiator cap. Mine was old and the gasket was corroded. I learned this the hard way. Good thing I was close to home. I was on a pretty major street, acting cool with the top down. Guy pulls up alongside me on a bicycle. I'm sure he's going to compliment me on the car. Instead he says "dude, you have a bunch of green stuff coming out the bottom of your car."

C. Get a battery tender!

If you're still reading, thank you! And if you have any guidance, wisdom, thoughts, critiques to share, thank you in advance!

Jonathan

1965 Chevy Impala 396/325 Convertible Ermine White with Red Interior, 4 Speed with Air Conditioning


Edited by Estimated Prophet on 08-05-18 08:58 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 




aghaga 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2164
aghaga
Age: 64
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
08-05-18 08:41 AM - Post#2742002    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

Welcome, quite a list but start with the safety items as the first priority. The headlight problem most likely is the dimmer switch on the floor. Your turn signal lever problem is due to a broken plastic part attached to the switch assembly. I would go ahead and replace the dimmer switch and turn signal assembly.



 
6T5 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 144
6T5
Age: 66
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
08-05-18 09:03 AM - Post#2742004    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

  • Estimated Prophet Said:
Hello friends,

For about a month now, I've been the new owner of this beautiful 1965 SS 396 Impala convertible that I bought on Bring-A-Trailer. It was time I joined the party. My father owned some vintage cars during my childhood, and my brothers and I caught the American muscle bug (one brother has a 66 Galaxie, the other a 68 Camaro.

I've encountered a few things I need to fix with the car. Nothing major. If you have ideas, I'm all ears. I'm aware that I may find some solutions to these problems through a search. I'm listing them all here though just to keep a record.

1. The trim tag is just flat wrong (there are pics in the link). I'd like to reproduce a correct tag but I'm not sure how to go about having a complete and correct one. Should I simply go through an options list and check off which ones I have?

2. The stuffing in the rear bench is so old that it's solidified and is now crumbling onto the floor/carpet being the front seats. I'm going to pull the bench and take it to a reupholster shop. I'm hoping that I get lucky and find a build sheet when I take it out. Question: can I take the bench out without removing the front seats?

3. I've got some surface rust in the trunk. I've been thinking about sanding it off with a dremel, then priming and spray painting with a similar colored rustoleum (grey). Good idea?

4. In the car, the SS "plates" in the door and above the armrests have a foil that is peeling off exposing the plastic underneath. Do I need to get new ones or can I repair them?

5. My headlights don't work in the normal position, but all four come on when I turn on the brights. I've seen posts about this. Will investigate. The far right taillight does not work either. I've replaced the bulb but issue remains.

6. I am interested in getting a second brake fluid reservoir to backup the first should it fail. My brother is considering this for his Galaxie. Seems like a reasonable thing to do. Thoughts? I'm also considering adding a coolant reservoir (see below).

7. Drum brakes all around. I drive precious cargo (wife, a 7 year old and a 5 year old). Should I convert the brakes to disc? All 4 wheels or can I get away with 2?

8. Radio does not work. I know nothing else about it. I'm going to troubleshoot this but it's a low priority.

9. The turn signal lever does not return on left-hand turns. This is a pain because the lever is so sensitive that when I put it back, I often wind up putting it all the way to the right-hand turn signal and then I gotta fiddle with it to put it back. Not something I want to do when I'm shifting gears and paying attention to traffic. I've seen videos for possible fixes. Ideas welcome.

10. Bought a matching pair of period-correct California license plates. They're being refurbished right now. Can't wait to put them on. I got plates with my son's initials. Took me a while to find them (popped up on eBay). It may be his car some day so I'm pretty excited about this.

Some things learned:

A. The key comes out of the ignition regardless of position. I can pull the key out while driving down the freeway and the car will stay on. The problem I had was that I was used to turning the car off by turning the key all the way and pulling it out. Well, I had a hell of a time trying to figure out why my battery kept dying. I killed one and bought another and god dangit my multimeter kept indicating I had a drain on my battery. Turns out I was turning the key all the way to ACC when I was pulling it out. I turn it to OFF now and no drain. Problem fixed. Cost $0. My kind of problem. Should I fix the key lock? Even for security reasons?



1. ?
2. Classic Industries has the complete rear seat foam padding.
3. Sand or grind it down, ?use maybe POR15 and then finish with splatter paint.
4. Not sure they're replaceable, you might have buy the complete panel.
5. Could be dimmer switch or headlight switch.
Taillight could be a bad ground at the socket or bad connection at the socket.
6-7. I'd do the front disc conversion kit which will come with a dual master cylinder

My key won't pull out... hope all this helps some



...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27806
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-05-18 09:42 AM - Post#2742006    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

4) Before you replace the dimmer switch, use a multimeter to check for voltage on both outer headlight connectors with the dimmer switch in the low beam position. It is certainly possible that the switch could be good and both low beam filaments are burned out. Of course if no voltage, then you know that the dimmer switch or connecting wiring is bad. If your high beams work normally, the headlight switch is a non-starter, so save yourself the work of checking it.

Do the turn signal and brake light work normally on the bad tail light? A defective ground should affect those too.

6) A remote fill reservoir would work well for this, but you would need space to mount the remote high enough for the gravity feed to work.

7) I totally support conversion to front discs, but rears can present problems with the parking brake hookup. Besides, the fronts do most of the work anyway. However, if you are planning to race the car, haul a trailer, or engage in any other type of severe usage, then the rears might definitely be worth consideration.

A) Over the years, I have owned a few GM cars on which the key could be removed with the switch in any position. I don't know if this was by design or the result of wear, so follow your heart on this one.

Congrats on finding and buying a 4 speed car! You have my undying admiration for this, as we three-pedal guys seem to be getting scarcer and scarcer.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1078
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
08-05-18 11:12 AM - Post#2742015    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

  • Estimated Prophet Said:
Hello friends,

For about a month now, I've been the new owner of this 1965 SS 396 Impala convertible that I bought on Bring-A-Trailer. It was time I joined the party. My father owned some vintage cars during my childhood, and my brothers and I caught the American muscle bug (one brother has a 66 Galaxie, the other a 68 Camaro.

I've encountered a few things I need to fix with the car. Nothing major. If you have ideas, I'm all ears. I'm aware that I may find some solutions to these problems through a search. I'm listing them all here though just to keep a record.

1. The trim tag is just flat wrong (there are pics in the link). I'd like to reproduce a correct tag but I'm not sure how to go about having a complete and correct one. Should I simply go through an options list and check off which ones I have?

No real comment. How do you know it's 'flat wrong'? It may obviously not represent the car, but perhaps the tag is original and the car may have been modified. Futzing with trim tags is 'frowned upon' by some folks and in some states illegal (as I am told).

2. The stuffing in the rear bench is so old that it's solidified and is now crumbling onto the floor/carpet being the front seats. I'm going to pull the bench and take it to a reupholster shop. I'm hoping that I get lucky and find a build sheet when I take it out. Question: can I take the bench out without removing the front seats?

If you can't with the top up, you certainly can with it down. While it's 'out', it would be a good time to add rear seat belts if you don't already have them.

3. I've got some surface rust in the trunk. I've been thinking about sanding it off with a dremel, then priming and spray painting with a similar colored rustoleum (grey). Good idea?

Depending on how much/deep the rust is, I might choose a different tool. The key is to make sure you get down to bare metal, surface prep, surface prep, surface prep (did I say surface prep), primer, finally top coat of whatever color coating GM used in '65.

4. In the car, the SS "plates" in the door and above the armrests have a foil that is peeling off exposing the plastic underneath. Do I need to get new ones or can I repair them?

5. My headlights don't work in the normal position, but all four come on when I turn on the brights. I've seen posts about this. Will investigate. The far right taillight does not work either. I've replaced the bulb but issue remains.

The dimmer switch is on the floor just left of the clutch. Are the headlights on 'dim'? If so, check the dimmer switch.

6. I am interested in getting a second brake fluid reservoir to backup the first should it fail. My brother is considering this for his Galaxie. Seems like a reasonable thing to do. Thoughts? I'm also considering adding a coolant reservoir (see below). I would not 'add' another unit. I would consider the dual reservoir master cylinder.

I drove around for years and hundreds of thousands of miles with single reservoir systems w/o ever experiencing a 'failure'. But, because it is not a difficult, nor expensive, modification many folks (including me) do it because it makes them feel more comfortable.

Coolant reservoir? I would not bother. If one does not over fill the radiator, there room at the top of the radiator for normal expansion. But it's cheap, if it makes you feel better, why not?



7. Drum brakes all around. I drive precious cargo (wife, a 7 year old and a 5 year old). Should I convert the brakes to disc? All 4 wheels or can I get away with 2?

The drums are quite safe (especially if you drive like you are carrying precious cargo) if in proper condition. Drums fade quicker than discs, but if you don't race, haul a trailer, or drive in the mountains, 'fade' is not a problem. I have the drums on my '63 and I'm confident in them and drive my grand kids around frequently. I don't ever repeatedly brake HARD enough to heat the brakes up to a point where they may fade.

IF you decide to go w/discs, I recommend also going to 15" wheels (allows larger rotors). That's what GM did when they made the change from drums on their full size cars. Why? I would want to maintain all the safety factors GM designed into the brakes on their full size cars. There are disc components that 'fit ' within some of the 14" wheels, but GM designed those systems for lighter cars.


8. Radio does not work. I know nothing else about it. I'm going to troubleshoot this but it's a low priority.

Mine neither. I have a blue tooth speaker that's about the size of a 16 oz beer can that I keep in and old plastic cup holder. I 'mount' that holder 'on' the ash tray. I stream music from my phone. It's great music (there's nothing on AM radio) and I also play it while working on/washing the car w/o running down the car battery. The battery on the speaker last about 8 hours.

9. The turn signal lever does not return on left-hand turns. This is a pain because the lever is so sensitive that when I put it back, I often wind up putting it all the way to the right-hand turn signal and then I gotta fiddle with it to put it back. Not something I want to do when I'm shifting gears and paying attention to traffic. I've seen videos for possible fixes. Ideas welcome.

10. Bought a matching pair of period-correct California license plates. They're being refurbished right now. Can't wait to put them on. I got plates with my son's initials. Took me a while to find them (popped up on eBay). It may be his car some day so I'm pretty excited about this.

Some things learned:

A. The key comes out of the ignition regardless of position. I can pull the key out while driving down the freeway and the car will stay on. The problem I had was that I was used to turning the car off by turning the key all the way and pulling it out. Well, I had a hell of a time trying to figure out why my battery kept dying. I killed one and bought another and god dangit my multimeter kept indicating I had a drain on my battery. Turns out I was turning the key all the way to ACC when I was pulling it out. I turn it to OFF now and no drain. Problem fixed. Cost $0. My kind of problem. Should I fix the key lock? Even for security reasons?

That's normal for a '63, never owned a '65 but think it's normal also. Fix it? The wires are just under the dash. 'Jumping' the switch too easy. I would not bother. You have a convertible. There is no way to stop anyone from entering the car and driving it away if 'they' want to.

Also, don't bother to ever lock the convertible. Someone cutting the top to get in and snoop around or play with the gear shift, is not something you want to deal with. Some people have no respect.

Good insurance is recommended.


B. When getting a "new" car, check the radiator cap. Mine was old and the gasket was corroded. I learned this the hard way. Good thing I was close to home. I was on a pretty major street, acting cool with the top down. Guy pulls up alongside me on a bicycle. I'm sure he's going to compliment me on the car. Instead he says "dude, you have a bunch of green stuff coming out the bottom of your car."

C. Get a battery tender!

Or, just disconnect the battery when it's going to sit for any length of time. I disconnect the battery every time I shut off the car when I am at home. I have no 'drains', but its one of those 'habits' of mine that is just too easy to do and eliminates calling AAA if I futz up somewhere.

If you're still reading, thank you! And if you have any guidance, wisdom, thoughts, critiques to share, thank you in advance!





 
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 847

Age: 58
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
08-05-18 12:39 PM - Post#2742023    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

Congrats on your new ride!
That's a big list you have already which tells me you're very thorough.

1. The trim tag is just flat wrong (there are pics in the link). I'd like to reproduce a correct tag but I'm not sure how to go about having a complete and correct one. Should I simply go through an options list and check off which ones I have?

***Jim Clemens, Rockledge, FL. 321-639-8431, e/mail; jimclemens@aol.com
does repro trim tags and protect-o-plates, code your tag to your factory options, not to what you wish the car came with ***

2. The stuffing in the rear bench is so old that it's solidified and is now crumbling onto the floor/carpet being the front seats. I'm going to pull the bench and take it to a reupholster shop. I'm hoping that I get lucky and find a build sheet when I take it out. Question: can I take the bench out without removing the front seats?

***Absolutely, but slide the buckets forward and put the top down. Push the seat bottom in/back at the lower front either side of the tunnel to unhook it from the floorboard, then tilt up and pull out. Unhook the metal straps from the seat back at the bottom. Slide the seat back up a bit and tilt forward to unplug the speaker wiring before lifting out the seat back.
Save the burlap and everything else except the foam and vinyl.***

3. I've got some surface rust in the trunk. I've been thinking about sanding it off with a dremel, then priming and spray painting with a similar colored rustoleum (grey). Good idea?

***I would wire brush off the loose rust and then treat with a rust converter like Conquest that is used on the salt spreaders at my work.
Spray paint afterward with the correct grey/white spatter combo for 65. When I was at the auto parts place I also saw a top coat sealer for protecting the spatter paint underneath.***

4. In the car, the SS "plates" in the door and above the armrests have a foil that is peeling off exposing the plastic underneath. Do I need to get new ones or can I repair them?

***There are several places that specialize in plastic chrome replating but I can't recommend a good one at this time. They're kind of like restaurants, a place that may have been great for years gets a new chef, and suddenly the food is yuck. I'm not sure if those banners are available separately as a repro, you could contact TMI who makes the door panels to weigh costs.
Ciadella is solid too, but I don't think they have 65SS door panels, same with Legendary.***

5. My headlights don't work in the normal position, but all four come on when I turn on the brights. I've seen posts about this. Will investigate. The far right taillight does not work either. I've replaced the bulb but issue remains.

***What the other guys said***

6. I am interested in getting a second brake fluid reservoir to backup the first should it fail. My brother is considering this for his Galaxie. Seems like a reasonable thing to do. Thoughts? I'm also considering adding a coolant reservoir (see below).

***For adding a dual master cylinder only, get a 4 wheel power drum master cylinder and the distribution block with bracket and lines like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-Impala-SS-D ual-Mast...
Our old radiators aren't designed for a coolant reservoir bottle recirculating setup. Any coolant that dumps out the tube wouldn't get sucked back in so I wouldn't bother with it.***


7. Drum brakes all around. I drive precious cargo (wife, a 7 year old and a 5 year old). Should I convert the brakes to disc? All 4 wheels or can I get away with 2?

***what the other guys said***

8. Radio does not work. I know nothing else about it. I'm going to troubleshoot this but it's a low priority.

***Check the fuse, check the radio harness, mine was ghetto rigged***

9. The turn signal lever does not return on left-hand turns. This is a pain because the lever is so sensitive that when I put it back, I often wind up putting it all the way to the right-hand turn signal and then I gotta fiddle with it to put it back. Not something I want to do when I'm shifting gears and paying attention to traffic. I've seen videos for possible fixes. Ideas welcome.

***what the other guys said***

10.The key comes out of the ignition regardless of position. I can pull the key out while driving down the freeway and the car will stay on. The problem I had was that I was used to turning the car off by turning the key all the way and pulling it out. Well, I had a hell of a time trying to figure out why my battery kept dying. I killed one and bought another and god dangit my multimeter kept indicating I had a drain on my battery. Turns out I was turning the key all the way to ACC when I was pulling it out. I turn it to OFF now and no drain. Problem fixed. Cost $0. My kind of problem. Should I fix the key lock? Even for security reasons?

***Remove the lock cylinder by turning it CCW with the key to its stop, push in the little hole with a decent sized paper clip and turn it more CCW still and pull it out. The key might pull out instead of bringing the cylinder with it in your case though. You may have to get inventive.
The internals are all worn out, take it to a locksmith to get rebuilt according to the code stamped on the cylinder so it matches your doors.***


Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
Estimated Prophet 
Poster
Posts: 32

Loc: Oakland, CA
Reg: 07-28-18
08-05-18 01:16 PM - Post#2742026    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

You guys are fantastic. Thank you so much.

Took her out today to run an errand. Combination freeway and some Bay Area hills. Parked it for a bit and the overflow on the radiator spit out a cup or so of coolant.

Transmission is also proving to be a little sticky. At some points, she slides right into first, second, third...Other times, I can't get into a gear at all. May have to get someone to take a look.

Jonathan

1965 Chevy Impala 396/325 Convertible Ermine White with Red Interior, 4 Speed with Air Conditioning


 
6T5 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 144
6T5
Age: 66
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
08-05-18 01:29 PM - Post#2742029    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

If the radiator cap looks old and seen better days, I'd start with a new radiator cap I think it is a 15lb pressure.

With motor running pull the transmission dipstick out and check your fluid level it could just be low. Also see if it clean and pink color...

...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1078
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
08-05-18 03:27 PM - Post#2742037    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

  • Estimated Prophet Said:
You guys are fantastic. Thank you so much.

Took her out today to run an errand. Combination freeway and some Bay Area hills. Parked it for a bit and the overflow on the radiator spit out a cup or so of coolant.

The temps raise after shut off (no flow). Check coolant level in radiator. Fill to just above the cooling 'fins'. That will allow room for the normal expansion.

I've never added an expansion tank to a radiator. I read that a different cap (one that seals both above and below the entry point of the overflow hose) is used. Is that true? Don't know. It's true that I read that


Transmission is also proving to be a little sticky. At some points, she slides right into first, second, third...Other times, I can't get into a gear at all. May have to get someone to take a look.

Assuming you have a stock Muncie 4 speed; look at the attachment of the shift rods to both the shifter and to shift levers on the transmission. There are bushings that can get worn and cause shifting difficulty. Also, unscrew the fill plug on the transmission case to check the fluid level. It should be filled to just below the level of the 'hole'. Your finger is as good a tool and any; feel for the level.

The trans oil may need to be changed. If you do not know when it was changed last, and/or it's low, recommend changing it. I would not add 'new' oil to oil of an unknown age. The stock Muncie does not like synthetic, use 'dino' oil. I forget how much it takes, and the viscosity, but 75w90 comes to mind, and I think its a little over a quart if 'dry'.

Might as well change the rear oil as well while you are 'under there'; especially if you do not know how long it's been in there.












Edited by japete92 on 08-05-18 03:39 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Estimated Prophet 
Poster
Posts: 32

Loc: Oakland, CA
Reg: 07-28-18
08-05-18 05:25 PM - Post#2742049    
    In response to japete92

Ok some additional comments based on feedback.

1. I know the trim tag is not legit because the options on it either don't exist in this car (e.g., power seats) or don't exist altogether (one code is for a Chevelle 375hp engine?). There was some talk about this on the BAT website. I knew this before bidding/buying. The tag looks very new too. I would just like to have a legit tag. I am told I can replace these legally. It's the VIN plate that I can't mess with.

2. Regarding the light switch, what would fail in the dimmer switch? The low setting? I assume when the low beams are on, it's each of the outside lights that are working, not the inside lights.

3. Point taken on the security of this car. No point in fixing the key if someone can jump it easily. I do live in Oakland so I should be vigilant. I'll be careful. I love the idea of keying everything to the same key, however! 3 keys is cumbersome.

4. I pulled the back bench out today. It's a mess underneath. I taped some heavy duty plastic to keep all the crap from coming out. This is a temporary fix. Longer term, I'll have it restored. There was no connection to the speaker. That line was cut a long time ago it looks like. Not even sure there's a speaker in the car.

5. I've got great insurance. Thanks Hagerty.

6. I did replace the radiator cap a few days ago. I think I'm good there.

How do I check the transmission fluid? Gotta get underneath the car? I think I have the Muncie 4 speed but not sure given trim tag. Seller "thought" it was, but who knows. Can Oilchangers do all the changes?

Again, you guys rock.


Jonathan

1965 Chevy Impala 396/325 Convertible Ermine White with Red Interior, 4 Speed with Air Conditioning


 
fuzz1957 
Contributor
Posts: 558

Loc: NE IA
Reg: 02-18-08
08-05-18 08:18 PM - Post#2742066    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

Some comments:

Why would you want to change your trim tag? It looks original to me. What you’re saying is the options on your car don’t match your tag, so the options are wrong. I’d think of it being the other way around. Your trim tag (from using 348 409.com) decodes tinted windshield, power bucket seat, power windows, 4 speed, air conditioning, padded dash, SS 396 375 HP, and right exterior mirror. Looking at pictures of what I think is your car, it also has remote driver mirror, power top and tilt steering wheel (hard to see). Built fourth week of Feb. I’d check the casting date located on rear of block, intake manifold casting date and post a picture of the numbers stamped on block pad in front of passenger head to decern more information. Lots of people here know way more than me.
Looks to be a fun car.

Fuzz




 
Estimated Prophet 
Poster
Posts: 32

Loc: Oakland, CA
Reg: 07-28-18
08-05-18 09:04 PM - Post#2742072    
    In response to fuzz1957

  • fuzz1957 Said:
Some comments:

Why would you want to change your trim tag? It looks original to me. What you’re saying is the options on your car don’t match your tag, so the options are wrong. I’d think of it being the other way around. Your trim tag (from using 348 409.com) decodes tinted windshield, power bucket seat, power windows, 4 speed, air conditioning, padded dash, SS 396 375 HP, and right exterior mirror. Looking at pictures of what I think is your car, it also has remote driver mirror, power top and tilt steering wheel (hard to see). Built fourth week of Feb. I’d check the casting date located on rear of block, intake manifold casting date and post a picture of the numbers stamped on block pad in front of passenger head to decern more information. Lots of people here know way more than me.
Looks to be a fun car.

Fuzz



Fair points. Maybe I don't need to change it? To me, there are some mysteries to solve with this car. Warren from impala.org thinks the tag is a problem too, I think. He was helping me out a bit.

Take the seats for example. I am supposed to have power seats. Definitely do not have those. I have bucket seats that are bolted in, not movable manually as far as I can tell.

No right mirror but you're correct, I have remote driver mirror. No idea if I have a tilt steering wheel.

I don't know if I have the 375 hp motor. Sure as hell hope so but I don't think that was an option for Impalas. Casting date was C 12 5, so March 5, 1965 as I understand it. The block was decked, so stamp is gone (why do people deck engine blocks?). So I know very little about this car's engine. Would love help solving this mystery.




Jonathan

1965 Chevy Impala 396/325 Convertible Ermine White with Red Interior, 4 Speed with Air Conditioning


 
6T5 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 144
6T5
Age: 66
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
08-06-18 04:39 AM - Post#2742075    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

Sorry I didn't realize it was a Muncie. Yeah on the right side of the tranny are two square headed bolts. The bottom one is the drain plug and the top one is the fill, fill it (80-90 weight gear oil) until it starts to overflow and you're good...

As for the shifting, it could need a shifter linkage and or linkage rods adjustment unless the sloppiness is due to these parts being worn out... hope this helps

...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1078
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
08-06-18 07:06 AM - Post#2742084    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

Jonathan,

Suggest you get your hands on the Shop Manual, the Assembly Manual, and any other GM manuals for your car that you can find. There's a 'sticky' with 'reference material' in this forum that should be helpful.

Also, here's a link you may find helpful:

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-...

The first page is blank; scroll down.

Pete



 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1078
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
08-06-18 07:54 AM - Post#2742086    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

  • Estimated Prophet Said:
Ok some additional comments based on feedback.

1. I know the trim tag is not legit because the options on it either don't exist in this car (e.g., power seats) or don't exist altogether (one code is for a Chevelle 375hp engine?). There was some talk about this on the BAT website. I knew this before bidding/buying. The tag looks very new too. I would just like to have a legit tag. I am told I can replace these legally. It's the VIN plate that I can't mess with.

Even if you replace the trim tag, it still is not the original one ( I don't know if what you have is original, or not). MANY cars don't match their trim tags because previous owners have made LOTS of changes over the years. Of all the things I might spend money on, changing trim tags is not one of them. One can never claim the car is equipped as new based on a changed trim tag. Are you accomplishing anything replacing one 'fake' trim tag with another 'fake' one?

2. Regarding the light switch, what would fail in the dimmer switch? The low setting? I assume when the low beams are on, it's each of the outside lights that are working, not the inside lights.

Mostly corrosion; causes bad contact. Any contact point may fail. The switch is not the only possible problem. Wiring can also be an issue. It could be both.

You are correct that the low beams are the 'outside' bulbs. They have dual filaments and illuminate in both 'low' and 'high' beam. The 'inner' bulbs only illuminate in 'high' beam.



3. Point taken on the security of this car. No point in fixing the key if someone can jump it easily. I do live in Oakland so I should be vigilant. I'll be careful. I love the idea of keying everything to the same key, however! 3 keys is cumbersome.

The car didn't come that way (3 keys). I've read where some folks have had locks changed to get back to one key. I've never done it.

4. I pulled the back bench out today. It's a mess underneath. I taped some heavy duty plastic to keep all the crap from coming out. This is a temporary fix. Longer term, I'll have it restored. There was no connection to the speaker. That line was cut a long time ago it looks like. Not even sure there's a speaker in the car.

I believe the rear speaker was an option. Your car may not have had it. Not difficult to 'fix'. Is it worth it to you? I had a rear speaker in the '63 convertible I owned in the '60s; couldn't really hear it with the top down unless I 'faded' the sound to almost entirely to the rear, and turned up the volume real loud. It was 'better' to just use the front one (there were no stereo radios offered back then).

5. I've got great insurance. Thanks Hagerty.

6. I did replace the radiator cap a few days ago. I think I'm good there.

How do I check the transmission fluid? Gotta get underneath the car?

Yes

I think I have the Muncie 4 speed but not sure given trim tag. Seller "thought" it was, but who knows.

Perhaps this will help:

https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/4_Speed_Transm...

Can Oilchangers do all the changes?

They all will say they can. I don't trust any of them. Find and old fart who knows what they are doing if you don't wish to do it your self.


Again, you guys rock.






 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1078
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
08-06-18 08:17 AM - Post#2742088    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

  • Estimated Prophet Said:
  • fuzz1957 Said:
Some comments:

Why would you want to change your trim tag? It looks original to me. What you’re saying is the options on your car don’t match your tag, so the options are wrong. I’d think of it being the other way around. Your trim tag (from using 348 409.com) decodes tinted windshield, power bucket seat, power windows, 4 speed, air conditioning, padded dash, SS 396 375 HP, and right exterior mirror. Looking at pictures of what I think is your car, it also has remote driver mirror, power top and tilt steering wheel (hard to see). Built fourth week of Feb. I’d check the casting date located on rear of block, intake manifold casting date and post a picture of the numbers stamped on block pad in front of passenger head to decern more information. Lots of people here know way more than me.
Looks to be a fun car.

Fuzz



Fair points. Maybe I don't need to change it? To me, there are some mysteries to solve with this car. Warren from impala.org thinks the tag is a problem too, I think. He was helping me out a bit.

Take the seats for example. I am supposed to have power seats. Definitely do not have those. I have bucket seats that are bolted in, not movable manually as far as I can tell.

ALL seats were manually (or power) adjustable to accommodate drivers of differing heights. Don't know what you have, but NEVER underestimate the changes previous owners make.

No right mirror but you're correct, I have remote driver mirror. No idea if I have a tilt steering wheel.

Look in the 'reference material' sticky. You should find everything you need to know about the tilt wheel there.

I don't know if I have the 375 hp motor. Sure as hell hope so but I don't think that was an option for Impalas. Casting date was C 12 5, so March 5, 1965 as I understand it. The block was decked, so stamp is gone (why do people deck engine blocks?). So I know very little about this car's engine. Would love help solving this mystery.

Likely too hard short of disassembly and inspection. Major castings may be identifiable with the numbers, but internals will not be identifiable w/o taking it apart.










 
fuzz1957 
Contributor
Posts: 558

Loc: NE IA
Reg: 02-18-08
08-06-18 12:25 PM - Post#2742105    
    In response to japete92

EST.P,

If your engine block was cast March 5, 65 - it was cast after your car was built. So, I would surmise it’s not original engine. Decking the block helps to keep people from identifying it further.
As I and others mentioned, changing trim tag doesn’t gain originality and I don’t know if the one on your car is original or not.
My opinion: your car has gone through many changes through the years. Power seats gone (why would someone put on fake trim tag for power seat and not have them?) and replaced with manual seats. You can see the metal adjuster knob on sides of seats. Tilt wheel added - looks like adjustment lever next to turn signal lever in picture. Trim tag would have code “Z” in second ACC. Grouping and yours doesn’t. Remote mirror added - dealer could have done this.
Does it have a tachometer? Can’t tell from pictures for sure (maybe missed), but it looks to have a vacumn gauge. I would think a tachometer would have been standard on a car like this.
Your car was probably “born with” many of the things it has now. How many original to this car? Don’t know. Others look to be added. Remember, this is a 50 year old car and if pristine, would have gone across auction block at BJ. Hopefully others who know way more than me and my speculations will chime in.

Fuzz




 
Estimated Prophet 
Poster
Posts: 32

Loc: Oakland, CA
Reg: 07-28-18
08-06-18 02:21 PM - Post#2742123    
    In response to fuzz1957

  • fuzz1957 Said:
EST.P,

If your engine block was cast March 5, 65 - it was cast after your car was built. So, I would surmise it’s not original engine. Decking the block helps to keep people from identifying it further.
As I and others mentioned, changing trim tag doesn’t gain originality and I don’t know if the one on your car is original or not.
My opinion: your car has gone through many changes through the years. Power seats gone (why would someone put on fake trim tag for power seat and not have them?) and replaced with manual seats. You can see the metal adjuster knob on sides of seats. Tilt wheel added - looks like adjustment lever next to turn signal lever in picture. Trim tag would have code “Z” in second ACC. Grouping and yours doesn’t. Remote mirror added - dealer could have done this.
Does it have a tachometer? Can’t tell from pictures for sure (maybe missed), but it looks to have a vacumn gauge. I would think a tachometer would have been standard on a car like this.
Your car was probably “born with” many of the things it has now. How many original to this car? Don’t know. Others look to be added. Remember, this is a 50 year old car and if pristine, would have gone across auction block at BJ. Hopefully others who know way more than me and my speculations will chime in.

Fuzz



Thanks Fuzz. Yes, I've got a frankencar alright and that's cool with me. I've enjoyed it immensely in the few short weeks I've owned it. I like the mystery and the investigation too, but I'm not sure there's much more I can do on that front without tearing things apart, which I'm not going to do.

Oh, no tachometer. Yes, that's the vacuum gauge. Someone told me the tach was an option that would have replaced the vacuum gauge.

Jonathan

1965 Chevy Impala 396/325 Convertible Ermine White with Red Interior, 4 Speed with Air Conditioning


 
PAragtopguy 
Poster
Posts: 86
PAragtopguy
Reg: 08-13-12
08-06-18 03:14 PM - Post#2742133    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

If you pull the valve covers off then you can look and see what the casting codes are for them. Also, a stock 325 HP head will say 'pass' on it for Passenger. A high performance head will say 'Hi-Perf' on it. That will give you further clues if the 396 in there is a true 375 HP engine.

Baseball, Hot Dogs, Apple Pie and Chevrolet!!!

2015 Green Flash Convertible - 811 total, one of 82 ragtops.



 
fuzz1957 
Contributor
Posts: 558

Loc: NE IA
Reg: 02-18-08
08-06-18 04:50 PM - Post#2742144    
    In response to PAragtopguy

Jonathan,

Think you’re reading my posts wrong. Just trying to help you understand what you bought and answer your questions. You’re correct - your car and yours to enjoy. That’s what it’s all about. Have fun with it.

Fuzz




 
Estimated Prophet 
Poster
Posts: 32

Loc: Oakland, CA
Reg: 07-28-18
08-06-18 07:16 PM - Post#2742161    
    In response to fuzz1957

  • fuzz1957 Said:
Jonathan,

Think you’re reading my posts wrong. Just trying to help you understand what you bought and answer your questions. You’re correct - your car and yours to enjoy. That’s what it’s all about. Have fun with it.

Fuzz



Oh I absolutely appreciate it Fuzz. It's all good and thanks again!

Jonathan

1965 Chevy Impala 396/325 Convertible Ermine White with Red Interior, 4 Speed with Air Conditioning


 
mitchlr1 
Poster
Posts: 5
mitchlr1
Loc: Oregon City Or.
Reg: 06-24-17
08-07-18 09:24 AM - Post#2742203    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

I do not remember a 375 HP in a (B) body in 1965. 325hp and 425hp were the two horsepower rating as far as I remember for the 396 but maybe I will learn something new today.



 
TAT_2 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member, and Official CT Grim Reaper
Posts: 35356
TAT_2
Age: 65
Loc: "UNDER THE BOARDWALK"
Reg: 10-29-00
08-07-18 04:29 PM - Post#2742247    
    In response to Estimated Prophet

https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...
2ND POST

09 PONTIAC- VIBE
08 PONTIAC- G6
96 FURD F-150 SUPER CAB XLT 4X4
93 VETTE - 40TH ANIV RUBY RED LT1/6SPD/RAG TOP
NEXT ?


*****
PREVIOUS VETTE'S 58,68,70,76,78,85,90
*****


Blessed are the cross-eyed, for they will see God twice


 
TAT_2 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member, and Official CT Grim Reaper
Posts: 35356
TAT_2
Age: 65
Loc: "UNDER THE BOARDWALK"
Reg: 10-29-00
08-08-18 03:02 PM - Post#2742370    
    In response to TAT_2

THAT 65 HAD SOME SPECIAL MEMORIES FOR ME,I KEPT THE CROSS FLAG EMBLEM FROM 1 OF THE FENDERS & HAVE IT ON MY CABINET IN WORK.



Attachment: work_campbells.jpg (48.45 KB) 3 View(s)




09 PONTIAC- VIBE
08 PONTIAC- G6
96 FURD F-150 SUPER CAB XLT 4X4
93 VETTE - 40TH ANIV RUBY RED LT1/6SPD/RAG TOP
NEXT ?


*****
PREVIOUS VETTE'S 58,68,70,76,78,85,90
*****


Blessed are the cross-eyed, for they will see God twice


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27806
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-09-18 08:45 AM - Post#2742469    
    In response to mitchlr1

  • mitchlr1 Said:
I do not remember a 375 HP in a (B) body in 1965. 325hp and 425hp were the two horsepower rating as far as I remember for the 396 but maybe I will learn something new today.


I believe the 375hp figure was used for the solid lifter 396 (L78, I think) when it was installed in Chevelles, but I haven't been able to find any official GM literature which supports this.

If anyone else here knows otherwise, or better yet, can post a link either proving or disproving this assumption, I will gratefully stand corrected.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
TAT_2 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member, and Official CT Grim Reaper
Posts: 35356
TAT_2
Age: 65
Loc: "UNDER THE BOARDWALK"
Reg: 10-29-00
08-09-18 02:41 PM - Post#2742517    
    In response to raycow

The 1965 Impala was the first Impala to receive the new 396 cubic-inch engine, which was introduced on February 15, 1965.

New this year was the big-block 396 cubic-inch Turbo-Jet. The new 396 cubic-inch engine was available as a 325-horsepower version with 10.25:1 compression ratio with a hydraulic-lifter camshaft, or a high-performance version with an 11.0:1 compression ratio, and a solid-lifter camshaft, delivering 375 horsepower.
65 VETTE
L78 396ci, 425hp Engine 2,157 292
UNDER A 300$ OPTION & ONLY A TAD OVER 2K SOLD



09 PONTIAC- VIBE
08 PONTIAC- G6
96 FURD F-150 SUPER CAB XLT 4X4
93 VETTE - 40TH ANIV RUBY RED LT1/6SPD/RAG TOP
NEXT ?


*****
PREVIOUS VETTE'S 58,68,70,76,78,85,90
*****


Blessed are the cross-eyed, for they will see God twice


 
japete92 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1078
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
08-09-18 03:19 PM - Post#2742523    
    In response to TAT_2

  • TAT_2 Said:
The 1965 Impala was the first Impala to receive the new 396 cubic-inch engine, which was introduced on February 15, 1965.

New this year was the big-block 396 cubic-inch Turbo-Jet. The new 396 cubic-inch engine was available as a 325-horsepower version with 10.25:1 compression ratio with a hydraulic-lifter camshaft, or a high-performance version with an 11.0:1 compression ratio, and a solid-lifter camshaft, delivering 375 horsepower.
65 VETTE
L78 396ci, 425hp Engine 2,157 292
UNDER A 300$ OPTION & ONLY A TAD OVER 2K SOLD






According to:

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-...

As revised in Feb 1965 an RPO L78 396 rated at 425 hp was available for the full size Chevy. RPO L35 was 396 rated at 325 hp.

The 409 was the 'big block' earlier in that year.

Pete





 
TAT_2 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member, and Official CT Grim Reaper
Posts: 35356
TAT_2
Age: 65
Loc: "UNDER THE BOARDWALK"
Reg: 10-29-00
08-09-18 05:25 PM - Post#2742537    
    In response to japete92

HOPEFULLY SOME1 WHO HAS 1 WIIL POP UP ON THIS SITE.
GOTA GO MAKE THE DONUTS,SO COLOR ME GONE !

09 PONTIAC- VIBE
08 PONTIAC- G6
96 FURD F-150 SUPER CAB XLT 4X4
93 VETTE - 40TH ANIV RUBY RED LT1/6SPD/RAG TOP
NEXT ?


*****
PREVIOUS VETTE'S 58,68,70,76,78,85,90
*****


Blessed are the cross-eyed, for they will see God twice


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27806
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-10-18 02:34 PM - Post#2742629    
    In response to TAT_2

  • TAT_2 Said:
.....The new 396 cubic-inch engine was available as a 325-horsepower version with 10.25:1 compression ratio with a hydraulic-lifter camshaft, or a high-performance version with an 11.0:1 compression ratio, and a solid-lifter camshaft, delivering 375 horsepower.....


Could you please post the link for that, or anything else which says what kind of car the 375hp engine was used in?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 847

Age: 58
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
08-10-18 05:00 PM - Post#2742649    
    In response to raycow

The 425hp L78 and the models are on page 8 of the document previously posted.

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-...

Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 




 Page 1 of 3 123
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

1990 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.103 seconds.   Total Queries: 17   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 07:41 PM
Top