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Username Post: Crank seal leaking on timing cover behind damper?        (Topic#351832)
Willow 
Contributor
Posts: 147

Reg: 05-25-12
07-02-18 03:28 PM - Post#2738745    

Greetings All:
Do I have to drop front of oil pan to remove timing chain cover on a sbc?
leaking from crank seal pretty bad. Also, any tips and tricks for replacing crank seal and timing cover to make leak free?
Also, any tips on balancer r&r?
As always, Thanks in advance for your help.👍
Regards: Willow 😊



Edited by Willow on 07-02-18 03:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 




grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17203
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
07-02-18 03:56 PM - Post#2738746    
    In response to Willow


the answer depends on the oil pan and front cover and oil pan gasket you selected to use, the one piece synthetic gaskets are usually the best option and of course the front covers that are designed to be removed without the front oil pan seal being described is the best option.design being used , but in most cases if you loosen the front 5-6 bolts on each side of the oil pan, and smear a small line of silicone sealant into the small space between the block and gasket before its refastened in place you can drop the forward oil pan enough to pull and refasten the front cover and not have the oil seal leak later.
remember theres two different gasket designs on the SBC the guy may have tried to install the wrong one
This looks like a darn bargain
the double roller cloyes timing chains tend to last longer before they wear and have excess slack
and they can be used with the stock O.E.M timing chain cover



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/SB-Chevy-Chrome-2- Piece-Ti...






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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 07-02-18 05:24 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Willow 
Contributor
Posts: 147

Reg: 05-25-12
07-02-18 05:47 PM - Post#2738755    
    In response to grumpyvette

Thanks, Is there a way to visually tell if it will come off without the Pan bring loose? Would help before kids start taking apart.



 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17203
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
07-02-18 06:00 PM - Post#2738756    
    In response to Willow

this whole deal is not that difficult

youll obviously need a damper puller tool

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...



http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Pr oducts/55...



IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 07-03-18 08:17 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27443
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
07-02-18 07:55 PM - Post#2738762    
    In response to Willow

If it has factory parts, you have to loosen the pan bolts and let the pan drop down in the front. Loosen all the bolts except the big ones at the rear. It will have to drop down 3/16" or so.

You can trim the back flange of the channel where the pan seal goes on the timing cover to make it easier next time.



 
Don57 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1371
Don57
Age: 68
Loc: Illinois
Reg: 04-28-00
07-03-18 06:03 AM - Post#2738784    
    In response to Willow

If you just want to just replace the crankshaft seal, you do NOT have to remove the timing chain cover at all.

Pull the harmonic balancer. Remove the key from the crankshaft. Using a seal removing tool, you can hook onto the seal and pop it out.

Be sure the crankshaft is free of burrs. Apply oil to the crank and lip of the new seal and slide the seal up against the timing chain cover.

Now you have to tap the new seal into place. I've used a short piece of pvc pipe up against the seal and a small hammer.

Pretty quick and easy. I've done it many times with 100% success.

Don
1957 3200 Stepside


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3407

Reg: 04-15-05
07-03-18 07:27 AM - Post#2738796    
    In response to Don57

i agree, done same so many times I have stopped keeping count. Just don't use a sledge hammer to install the new seal.



 
65ragtop 
Member
Posts: 384
65ragtop
Loc: Carmichael, CA
Reg: 04-04-03
07-03-18 09:11 PM - Post#2738880    
    In response to Don57

I question why is it leaking? Check the shaft of the harmonic balancer for a groove worn in it where there lip of the seal rides. If it's grooved, a new seal will still leak. They make these to 'repair' the balancer, or replace it with a new one.



 
55 Shaker 
Member
Posts: 1449

Age: 68
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
07-04-18 08:59 AM - Post#2738935    
    In response to 65ragtop

Or shim the new seal out so it rides on a new spot on the harmonic balancer.

The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3407

Reg: 04-15-05
07-04-18 02:23 PM - Post#2738955    
    In response to 55 Shaker

Nope, do not shim the balancer out, put a "Speed Sleeve" on it, do it right.

I obtained a freshly rebuilt 351 GMC V6 engine for my 1 ton dually flatbed work truck some time ago, had a serious front seal leak, other than that, nice piece. So, I promptly removed the balancer to get a better look, best to do so before the engine goes into the vehicle.

I found the balancer had the thin area where the key groove was cut, raised up from the rest of the seal race. After the balancer was removed, the key that aligns the balancer was seen to have ridden backwards when the balanceer was installed, and pulled, forcefully into place. What that did was literally cause the outer edge of the groove to raise into an arc from the seal surface.

This raised surface then literally ate the seal rubber off the metal. Didn't hurt anything else. So, I did what was needed, replaced the seal into the timing cover, staked the alignment key into place in its groove on the crank, and went about fixing the balancer.

On my lathe, I removed the bent up groove metal, then cut the seal face down to accept a section of thick wall muffler tubing, sealed to the balancer with Three Bond 1194 (this is the stuff motorcycle cases are sealed up with, and on intake manifold gaskets, the blue or gray sealer), and pressed the new muffler tubing seal race onto the balancer.

I then finished the outer surface of the muffler tubing into a new seal race. So far, six years and over 100K miles, not a drop of leakage.

There are ways to fix things, using common sense, just get creative.



 
55 Shaker 
Member
Posts: 1449

Age: 68
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
07-04-18 05:22 PM - Post#2738972    
    In response to IgnitionMan

I didn't say shim the balancer out. I said to shim the new seal out.

The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3407

Reg: 04-15-05
07-04-18 07:42 PM - Post#2738994    
    In response to 55 Shaker

Same same, not the right way to solve the original problem.



 
55 Shaker 
Member
Posts: 1449

Age: 68
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
07-04-18 07:51 PM - Post#2738995    
    In response to IgnitionMan

I was just giving another option, and it works. Shimming out the balancer would change the pulley alignment.

The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3407

Reg: 04-15-05
07-05-18 02:36 PM - Post#2739083    
    In response to 55 Shaker

"Shimming" the seal out is just as bad, and neither way is the right way to do it, Speedy Sleeve, or whatever it is called, IS THE RIGHT WAY, with the seal in its proper location.

So many people wanting to do things totally the wrong way is like asking....if ignorance is total bliss, why aren't more people totally happy?



 




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