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Username Post: Bleeding my brakes.        (Topic#351610)
Posts: 2

Reg: 06-17-18
06-17-18 05:04 PM - Post#2737300    

I have a 1970, 350, 4-speed, 4x4, 1/2 ton short bed step side, all manual truck. Just put in new suspension and new extended brake hoses. fluid flows freely down new hoses to the wheel cylinders. For the life of me, I can not get the fluid to go into the wheel cylinders and come out the bleeders. I remember in the past they only needed to gravity bleed. The drums lock up when you apply the brakes, so something is moving in there. Have my son pump up the brakes, I open the bleeder and nothing? Frustrated to say the least.



Chevytalk Moderator & "16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5113
Loc: Muskegon, MI, USA
Reg: 03-28-02
06-18-18 04:20 AM - Post#2737330    
    In response to MINIGUN

Welcome to Chevy Talk from West Michigan!

Bleeding brakes can be a challenge at times!

I assume the bleeders are not plugged and I assumed that you bench bled the master cylinder so I would start with the proportioning valve and bleed both ends. From there I would lock the valve open for the rear and bleed the rear first. Hopefully gravity bleeding will work. Once the rear is done, lock the front and bleed the front brakes.

I don't understand why gravity bleeding did not work for you on all four wheels, but I wonder if you gave it enough time. Is the master cylinder new? It is rare but sometimes master cylinders have problems.

Good luck and stay patient!


65 Impala SS, 400sbc, Muncie M-22
66 Impala SS, 396, TH 400
69 El Camino, 350, TH 350
71 Short bed stepside 4x4, 350/TH 350
71 Snow plow, 4x4, 350, TH 350
72 GMC Shortbed, stepside, 427/TH 400

Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6347
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
06-18-18 08:41 AM - Post#2737359    
    In response to MINIGUN

Welcome to ChevyTalk.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew

Posts: 2

Reg: 06-17-18
06-19-18 05:10 PM - Post#2737580    
    In response to JimKshortstep4x4

I'll start over again and bleed the master cylinder. It is the old one, might even be the original. My dad took good care of the truck. He generally used rebuild kits. So hopefully this weekend.


Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1420

Age: 59
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
06-20-18 07:37 AM - Post#2737658    
    In response to MINIGUN

Take the hoses loose at the backing plates and push the brake pedal. That will tell you if your getting fluid to the wheel. Take one loose at a time and try it.
Did you buy new wheel cylinders? You may have trash in them. You may also have air in the system.

1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse

Edited by Andy4639 on 06-20-18 07:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 829

Reg: 10-07-13
07-13-18 10:42 AM - Post#2739859    
    In response to Andy4639

First thing to do is remove the bleeder valve completely and observe if fluid begins to leak out. It should definitely gravity flow out unless you have a restriction between the master and wheel cylinder. Most likely, the hole in your bleeder valve is rusted shut. Pretty common. When you have that bleeder valve out, see if you can blow through it.

Posts: 189

Reg: 07-09-18
08-12-18 02:06 PM - Post#2742861    
    In response to MINIGUN

In my experience, the best way to bleed air from brake systems is to first make sure that you properly bench-bleed the master cylinder. This step is very important.

Next, I vacuum bleed the system starting with the wheel furthest away, then closer, etc. You need to keep the reservoir full as you do this.

Vacuum bleeding is the easiest way to get the fluid to come through.

Wrap all of the threads on the bleeder screws with teflon tape to avoid sucking air around the threads.


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