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Username Post: Mark's 66 Impala SS RestoMod Build        (Topic#351166)
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-03-18 04:55 AM - Post#2735749    
    In response to MarkISS

To install the McLeod RST double disc clutch, it's a two set process:


Attachment: IMG_5331.JPG (2.9 MB) 19 View(s)


First, you have to install the clutch disc closest to the flywheel and the Clutch's main attachment assembly to the flywheel. Then torque the attaching bolts @ 35 ft lbs. You have to make sure the clutch disc against the flywheel still moves freely after this step by rotating the alignment pin installed through the disc and into the Pilot Bearing. The two discs are clearly marked what side and which disc goes where.


Attachment: IMG_5332.JPG (2.92 MB) 21 View(s)


Here you see the RST fully installed and the inter bolts holding the pressure plate assembly torqued @ 25 ft lbs.... The only thing remaining now is to reinstall the QuickTime bellhousing. Stay tune, much more to come. Thanks Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
FNF01 
Poster
Posts: 66

Reg: 06-04-16
06-04-18 08:24 AM - Post#2735886    
    In response to MarkISS

Mark this project looks great! It has some very similar elements to what I'd hope to do with my '64 impala.

I'll be watching this build closely best of luck and keep the great updates coming!!

If you don't mind I'm curious what your background is working on restorations? It seems like you mentioned you've done a few before? You also seem to be planing on doing a lot of the work yourself. I'm not ashamed to admit pretty much everything you said about the motor went over my head lol. And I'm always curious where people get the knowledge to tackle some of these larger restorations without being a professional mechanic.


p.s. Are you taking on any apprentices haha

1964 Impala SS Conv.


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-04-18 09:31 AM - Post#2735890    
    In response to FNF01

FNF01

I happy you're following along this build and glad you're on board. The biggest reason I document these builds is to pay back (pay it forward) for all the threads I learned from.

I offer up a few other build threads I've done over the years and then I'll answer your question on my background.

First build ever was a kit/tribute to a 65 Shelby Cobra 427 S/C... The engine build and the car both made two different magazine articles.
Cobra link: http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/forumdisplay.php...

The first truck I did was a 52 Ford F1 ... the engine made a magizine article.
Ford build ling: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1335526-marks- 5...

And my most recent and first foreign car, a 68 Thiumph TR250.
Triumph build link: http://www.6-pack.org/vb5/the-6-pack-forums /car-re...

My background:... I'm not a cars/body shop, I don't do mechanic work... It's strictly a hobby. I was born "mechanically" inclined and feel very comfortable building a house, electric, plumbing, etc. etc. If I see it, I can most likely do it... this doesn't mean I know how, but I do know how I can find out... The internet is a wonderful resource with such things at forums, YouTube, etc. My profession, I'm in IT management.

I do everything on my builds, with 3 exceptions: 1) I don't build engines, 2) I don't do Body work and 3) I don't paint cars. I have no issues with rebuilds like a diff or manual trans, I can cut out metal and replace parts, etc. I can do miner fabrication work and I'm a self-taught mig welder (pretty good I think?) I'm mostly limited by the tools I have.

I hope that answers your questions... let me know if you want more details and further info... I help if I can.

Regards, Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
9Teen67Biscayne 
Contributor
Posts: 138
9Teen67Biscayne
Loc: OK
Reg: 07-29-16
06-04-18 10:28 AM - Post#2735897    
    In response to MarkISS

don't use bread - then you risk having a duck infestation...
( serious - nice trick!)

Tim Saepe Expertus- Semper Fidelis- Fratres Aeterni

"He must be the stupidest sonofabitch alive - but he sure is fast." - F. Gump


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-04-18 11:15 AM - Post#2735901    
    In response to 9Teen67Biscayne

  • 9Teen67Biscayne Said:
don't use bread - then you risk having a duck infestation...
( serious - nice trick!)



Thanks Tim, but if I get ducks up in the mountains of Western NC.... we'll, I'd need to build an Ark.... Nice Trick...? well, thanks to YouTube !!

Regards Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
FNF01 
Poster
Posts: 66

Reg: 06-04-16
06-05-18 07:37 AM - Post#2736013    
    In response to MarkISS

Holy cow I feel like I just took a master's class while only in the 3rd grade going through that whole truck build. (work was slow yesterday lol)

That truck was a beauty.

Makes me more excited for this one.

1964 Impala SS Conv.


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-06-18 10:17 AM - Post#2736146    
    In response to FNF01

FNF01.... Oh yea, that truck build was intense !!

Anyway, my frame is all painted and now installing the front upper/lower control arms and springs, then I'll install the front struts and front anti-roll bar to the lower control arms. I took the rear differential case to my sandblaster... more on that later.

Mark

Attachment: IMG_5338.JPG (3.73 MB) 25 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5337.JPG (3.02 MB) 20 View(s)


In these two pictures, you can clearly see I'm using tubular upper and lower control arms, Poly spring seat, 2" lower spindles, new alum hubs and the caliper bracket for the 13" disc big brake kit. The only parts in all this are the large pivot bolt that holds the lower control arm to the cross member/frame and the steering arms the tie rods connect to. I would have installed a new pivot bolts, but couldn't fine any? I could only find a used pivot bolts on eBay that was in worst shape than the one I had.




Attachment: IMG_5338.JPG (1 B) 24 View(s)

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-07-18 04:31 AM - Post#2736213    
    In response to MarkISS

I finished the front left control arms and spring install. The spring and/or the screw rod that was used to compress the spring kept getting hung up on something while trying to get the top of the spring in it's final resting place.... plus, you have to be crazy careful when the spring is compress... i.e., lots of energy stored up just waiting to unload and hurt or kill you.... so I was hesitant to hammer or use some sort of pry bar.... the next two pics show how I used ratchet straps to help me out and allow me to be in a safe place. Also, my sandblaster David brought my diff case back and it looked great with 52 years of "stuff" on it was removed and now spotlessly clean. First thing I did was wipe it down with Eastwood's After Blast to clean, etch and add that layer of Zinc phosphate coating that improves paint, primer or powder adhesion. I also got the new upper control arm bracket welded on the left side of the diff case... so now I can install 2 vs. the single right upper control arm. Next up, install the two front struts to the lower control arms and install the new HD from anti-roll bar.

Mark

Attachment: IMG_5340.JPG (3.62 MB) 20 View(s)


This pic shows how I was able to loop the ratchet strap around the top of the spring compressor screw to pull it into the spring housing SAFELY.


Attachment: IMG_5339.JPG (3.6 MB) 21 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5341.JPG (3.56 MB) 22 View(s)


Here, you see the yellow ratchet strap to hold and help raise the lower control arm and "compressed" spring assembly up into it's final resting place. Since I had the straps in place and the spring mostly within the final spot, I felt more comfortable to use the leverage bar to help push the spring back and ratchet up the spring. Once up in place, I was able to lower the upper control arm down to the spindle, and with the help of a large C-clamp, mat the ball joint stud into the mounting hole atop the spindle... this allowed me to get the nut started and tighten on the ball joint stud.


Attachment: IMG_5342.JPG (2.68 MB) 19 View(s)


Ready to apply the Eastwood AfterBlast acid wash to the freshly sandblasted differential case. I'll do this several times.


Attachment: IMG_5346.JPG (3.21 MB) 20 View(s)


Finally, I have the new bracket tack welded for the left upper control arm. I'm taking my time here so I don't overheat and warp some metal. Once this is completely welded, I'll clean it up and apply AfterBlast. Next up for the diff case it the rebuild with all new parts.... e.g., Pinion, ring, TruTrack posit carrier, bearings and axles.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
6T5 
"2nd Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 204
6T5
Age: 67
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
06-08-18 04:33 AM - Post#2736299    
    In response to MarkISS

Looking mighty good Mark, I really like the detail you do. It's the little things...

...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-08-18 05:47 AM - Post#2736306    
    In response to 6T5

  • 6T5 Said:
Looking mighty good Mark, I really like the detail you do. It's the little things...



6T5... I see you just up the road from me in Asheville. We'll have to connect some time. Do you do anything "car like" in the area, e.g., Cars and Coffee in Asheville?

If you ever want to see the car build first hand, let me know and you can "come to the garage".

Mark

PS: You mention you liked the thread and "it's the little things"... can you be more specific and maybe I can add more of that if there's interest? Again, this thread is all about "paying it forward" to those that may benefit from it or get some ideas, as I've learned so much from those who did the same thing before me.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


Edited by MarkISS on 06-08-18 05:49 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-11-18 04:14 AM - Post#2736571    
    In response to MarkISS

Here's some weekend updates... and I must say, I made pretty good progress.

I was able to clean (scrub) out the internals of the doff case of all oils, sludge and sand form the blasting. After the washing, I sprayed brake cleaner inside and out and one more wipe down of Eastwood's AdterBlast on the exterior. Then, I taped it up and applied Classic Black paint to the diff.


Attachment: IMG_5347.JPG (4.01 MB) 18 View(s)


washing with purple grease cutter and brush and hose water.


Attachment: IMG_5349.JPG (3.32 MB) 20 View(s)


just painted the Diff in Classic Black frame paint after I reapplied Eastwood's AfterBlast


Attachment: IMG_5351.JPG (2.46 MB) 21 View(s)


I welded new metal to where the front strut bars will attach.


Attachment: IMG_5355.JPG (4.04 MB) 20 View(s)


I finished up the front suspension with the Global West control arms, springs and adjustable strut arms.


Attachment: IMG_5356.JPG (2.66 MB) 19 View(s)


Finalizing the front suspension is a very heavy duty 1.25" Hotchkis Anti-Sway bar with ploy bushings.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-12-18 09:02 AM - Post#2736710    
    In response to MarkISS

With the front suspension complete, I made more room in the garage by installing the engine. After the engine was set, I then installed the power rack and pinion cradle and hoses to the power steering pump on the engine. With this all complete, the Tremec TKO-600 5 speed transmission is next. I'm waiting on a few parts I need to start the differential rebuild.

Attachment: IMG_5359.JPG (3.79 MB) 20 View(s)


Engine up off the stand and now have the poly engine mounts installed. I also added a oil cooler adapter (more on the oil cooler and thermostat later in the build) between the engine and a new WIX oil filter. I pre-filled the oil filter with new Royal Purple engine break-in oil I had.... (Note: since this is a roller cam, I didn't need break-in oil, but I had it from another build and will use for ~300 miles... sure can't hurt!).


Attachment: IMG_5361.JPG (4.02 MB) 20 View(s)


Engine installed and with good clearance between the new HD anti-roll bar and the March Crank pulley. The hose you see looped up over the engine is from the oil cooler adapter... i.e., I pre-installed the hose and will cut as needed and connect to the oil thermostat once I mount it to the car.


Attachment: IMG_5373.JPG (2.82 MB) 18 View(s)


here's a pic of the oil cooler adapter and in/out hoses. The BRAD 434... ??? well Brad was the engine builder from the Engine factory and the 434 is the cubic inch. It was a way for them to ID the builder and engine build.


Attachment: IMG_5391.JPG (2.71 MB) 18 View(s)


This picture shows the right side of the rack and pinion attached to the frame where the Idler arm use to be from the OEM steering system.... If you look closely, you'll see the right tie rod is connected to the rack and pinion.


Attachment: IMG_5392.JPG (3.07 MB) 19 View(s)


here's a pic of the left side of the pwr rack and pinion steering... mounted to the frame where the OEM steering knuckle was mounted. You also see the left tie rod installed and the power steering pump/reservoir hoses installed. The heim joint will be used to connect the steering wheel to the rack and get around the headers.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-15-18 07:53 AM - Post#2737026    
    In response to MarkISS

Quick update, I have the front disc brake brackets, Calipers and rotors installed. The Tremec TKO 600 5 spd and hydraulic throw out bearing installed and bled, and the new trans mount/cross arm stalled. My goal next is to complete the differential rebuild and get it installed so I can measure for the new Denny's Drive Shaft.





Attachment: IMG_5377.JPG (2.79 MB) 18 View(s)


This is the pic of the TKO600 trans with the new Tilton bearing cap and hydraulic throw out bearing install on the transmission. I measured the distance from the face of the bell-housing trans plate/face to the clutch fingers and then subtracted .125" from that first measurement. This will give a 1/8" gap between the throw-out bearing and the clutch fingers to allow for the fingers to move towards the trans as the clutch plates wear. Once the bearing in screwed on the new trans bearing cap, you put a flat edge on the bearing face and measure/adjust to the trans face.


Attachment: IMG_5386.JPG (4.29 MB) 19 View(s)


13" big brake kit installed on the front... from CPP


Attachment: IMG_5407.JPG (3.17 MB) 20 View(s)


In this picture, I've passed the Tilton throw-out bearing hydraulic lines thru the bell-housing and out the clutch arm opening (the manual clutch arm would have been installed). I then connected the lines to the Clutch's master cylinder and bleed valve so I could bleed the lines with the bleed exit line was at top dead center to ensure I got all the air bubbles out. Once that was done, I screwed down the stud that holds the Tilton bearing from twisting.


Attachment: IMG_5423.JPG (2.28 MB) 19 View(s)


In this pic, the trans is now installed and a close up pic of the gap between the clutch fingers the the bearing face. You can also see in the upper right corner, the stud that holds the hydraulic bearing from spinning.


Attachment: IMG_5414.JPG (3.39 MB) 21 View(s)


Trans installed with the new trans mount/cross arm.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-17-18 04:58 AM - Post#2737238    
    In response to MarkISS

I didn't have much time to work on the Impala on Sat.... although, I did attached the two wires to the starter and insulate all to get ready for the Header installs, i.e., headers are pretty close the starter/wires the the insulation will help shield them from the high heat. I'll also insulate the rubber oil cooler hoses that run out by the oil filter.

Mark

Attachment: IMG_5425.JPG (3.48 MB) 17 View(s)


This pic shows the "start" wire insulated and the "battery" wire installed


Attachment: IMG_5426.JPG (3.1 MB) 16 View(s)


here, I pulled the battery wire insulation up to the terminal.


Attachment: IMG_5427.JPG (3.67 MB) 17 View(s)


Lastly, I wrapped the entire starter in a Starter insulation wrap I bought from SummitRacing. The warp was longer than needed, so the "overlap" double layer is on the outside of the starter between the starter the the header. The wrap has Velcro, but I also added a couple of long wire tires.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-18-18 09:31 AM - Post#2737366    
    In response to MarkISS

Sunday, June 17, was focused on getting the rear differential completely rebuilt with all new components... and since this was the first time I've ever done this... well, to say the least, it took me many hours. All the shimming of the pinion and the carrier to get everything just right, along with pressing and un-pressing the bearings to change the shims and put it all back together again to remeasure.

Anyway, I finally got it done and behind me.

Next up, get the rear diff and suspension back on the frame and installed so I can measure for the new drive shaft.

Stay Tune, Mark... Comments always welcome!



Attachment: IMG_5431.JPG (3.94 MB) 18 View(s)


In this shot, I'm checking the backlash of the ring-gear to pinion gear..... after a lot of shimming changes, I ended up within the range at 8 thousands of an inch (.008")


Attachment: IMG_5432.JPG (3.15 MB) 21 View(s)


One of the hardest and toughest jobs is crushing of the crush sleeve between the two bearings on the pinion shaft to get the proper load on the bearings... the instructions said it would take 300 to 400 ft lb of torque!!! As you can see in the picture, the only way I could get it was a big monkey wrench on the yoke, stand on the diff case, hold on the car lift above me and push on the extended breaker bar with all I had... ! I needed to tighten until I got ~25 in lbs for the preload on the pinion bearing and it's rotation.


Attachment: IMG_5435.JPG (2.89 MB) 17 View(s)


The next two pics show the ring gear painted with the supplied lead pain to see how and where the pinion teeth mess with the ring gear teeth during the drive load and coast... It's not perfect, but within specifications.


Attachment: IMG_5436.JPG (3.22 MB) 18 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5437.JPG (3.06 MB) 17 View(s)


Before I installed the two new Moser Axles, I pressed in the wheel studs into the hub.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-19-18 06:47 AM - Post#2737494    
    In response to MarkISS

Differential completed!! Installed the TrickFlow diff cover. This cover adds structural reinforcement and Carrier Bearing cap support. Now I can start the diff install back on the frame.

Attachment: IMG_5440.JPG (3.72 MB) 14 View(s)


The HD TrickFlow diff cover with Carrier bearing support.


Attachment: IMG_5443.JPG (3.19 MB) 13 View(s)


I also installed the new left and right upper control arms for the rear end to the frame.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
9Teen67Biscayne 
Contributor
Posts: 138
9Teen67Biscayne
Loc: OK
Reg: 07-29-16
06-19-18 09:29 AM - Post#2737512    
    In response to MarkISS

Mark - you got it goin on! - I will tell you what I didn't do - and should've - do all the lines now - check fit body to chassis etc... I boxed my frame in w 4130 sheet and well...left out some holes here and there and created probs w the E brake where it goes thru on the Dr side wheelwell... all fixed now but I made a lot of work for myself lol. forgive me if I'm stating the obvious - I tended to just "Git er Done" and solve as I went - hopefully you are smarter than me! ( Not hard to be LOL)

Tim Saepe Expertus- Semper Fidelis- Fratres Aeterni

"He must be the stupidest sonofabitch alive - but he sure is fast." - F. Gump


Edited by 9Teen67Biscayne on 06-19-18 09:30 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-20-18 03:50 AM - Post#2737638    
    In response to 9Teen67Biscayne

Hi Tim, you're spot on. I did keep all the hole openings for access to the body mounts. I also plan to install the rear suspension, headers, complete exhaust, brake lines, brakes, ebrakes and gas lines before the body goes back on the frame. Thanks for the thoughts....

Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
66SS632 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 396
66SS632
Loc: Langley BC
Reg: 02-09-13
06-20-18 10:27 PM - Post#2737751    
    In response to MarkISS

I guess it's too late now but I was going to suggest installing a c clip eliminator kit on that diff. I guess it depends on how much you intend to abuse it! LOL!

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/10-and-...



Still a 17 year old delinquent Hot Rodder


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-21-18 04:22 AM - Post#2737763    
    In response to 66SS632

  • 66SS632 Said:
I guess it's too late now but I was going to suggest installing a c clip eliminator kit on that diff. I guess it depends on how much you intend to abuse it! LOL!

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/10-and-...





Well, yes it is too late... and, I'm pretty sure the Big Disc brake kit I bought would not have been compatible... and, my diff/axle case has a larger flange than the kit works on. The kit is interesting and sure cheap enough.

Thanks for sharing.... Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-21-18 05:01 AM - Post#2737765    
    In response to MarkISS

OK... a quick update. The rear diff is now installed. I only had one issue, which I anticipated, with the Panhard bar hitting the new larger TrickFlow Diff cover/bearing cap adjustment screw. I ended up removing the stock Panhard mounting stud from the axle case, and extending the rear screw stud by about 1.75"... the pics below show how I did that. The completed diff installed included both upper and lower control arms, the shocks, a Anti-Roll bar between the two lower control arms, new springs and the Panhard bar.

After all this, the exhaust will be next, followed by brake and gas lines, and the rear disc big brake kit.

So stay tuned... so much more to go.

Regards, Mark

Attachment: IMG_5445.JPG (3.62 MB) 13 View(s)


this pic shows the two lower control arms installed along with the two new springs. I used ratchet straps to hold up the lower control arms and compress the springs some. I topped the springs with a poly cap. The diff was strapped to my floor jack and lifted into place.


Attachment: IMG_5449.JPG (3.27 MB) 13 View(s)


In this pic, you can see the new left side upper control arm I added to the build. The original car only had the top right control arm. This will provide more strength to the rear suspension and the new upper control arms are adjustable for setting the proper pinion angle.


Attachment: IMG_5452.JPG (2.58 MB) 13 View(s)


This pic of the left side lower control arm shows several things. 1) the boxed in control are is not as wide as the OEM stamped steel 3 sided control arm by about 1/2" inch. 2) once you divide the 1/2" by 2, you get 1/4" "thinner" on each side of the control arm. Therefore, if you take the total distance between the two control arms, it's 1/2" more than the OEM distance was. 3) to make up the 1/2" shortfall, I added 1/4" of SS washers between the lower control arms and the new rear Anti-roll bar on both sides. If I didn't add these spacers, the end result would be a gap as the bolts holding the anti-roll bard would try to draw in the control arms, but that couldn't happen since the attachment points of the control arm are fixed to the diff axle case the the frame.... not a good situation, therefore spacers added.


Attachment: IMG_5453.JPG (3.13 MB) 16 View(s)


This pic has everything installed except the Panhard bar and the 2 ratchet straps removed. I'll start a new reply to cover the Panhard bar install and some minor fabrication. thx Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


Edited by MarkISS on 06-21-18 05:02 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sz0k30 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 431
sz0k30
Loc: Oakland Co., Michigan
Reg: 10-12-08
06-21-18 07:35 AM - Post#2737787    
    In response to MarkISS

Regarding your previous photos, even the factory rear lower arms require spacers. Mine is a 67 Impala. I boxed my lower arms and as you can see from my photo it required a 3/8 spacer & washers on each side to make up for the distance between the arms & the roll bar.

Attachment: P1050858.JPG (593.49 KB) 12 View(s)






 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-21-18 08:50 AM - Post#2737794    
    In response to sz0k30

  • sz0k30 Said:
Regarding your previous photos, even the factory rear lower arms require spacers. Mine is a 67 Impala. I boxed my lower arms and as you can see from my photo it required a 3/8 spacer & washers on each side to make up for the distance between the arms & the roll bar.




SZ... thanks for the follow-up. My guess there is some sort of difference between 67 and 66?... Regardless, since my Anti-Roll bar (aftermarket) kit was for a 66 (and therefore would have assumed I'm using the non-boxed 3 sided OEM lower control arms) and the kit didn't include any spacers, as I said above, I added spacers for the distance being greater between control arms compared to the OEM. Having said all this, the kit did include 4 shims that would have installed between the two sides of the OEM control arm to keep them spaced properly... as when the anti-room bar mounting bolts were tighten the shims would prevent them from flexing/collapsing.

Regards, Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-22-18 10:35 AM - Post#2737919    
    In response to MarkISS

Here's the fab/mod I had to make to the Panhard bar axle mount to gain clearance for the aftermarket TrickFlow diff cover.

Stay tuned, Mark


Attachment: IMG_5454.JPG (3.28 MB) 12 View(s)


In this side shot of the lower Panhard bar mounting point, you can see how I have to extend the mounting point to clear the TrickFlow diff cover by about 1.75". I removed the mount stud from the axel case to make the mods needed.


Attachment: IMG_5456.JPG (2.89 MB) 13 View(s)


here you see the OEM mount stud left, a metal sleeve I'll slide over the mount stud, a grade 8 bolt I cut to extend the stud and some washers.


Attachment: IMG_5458.JPG (2.8 MB) 13 View(s)


Here you can see I ground the ends with a 45* tapper for better weld penetration.


Attachment: IMG_5459.JPG (3.04 MB) 15 View(s)


This pic shows the tapered studs inserted into the sleeve where I drilled a 3/8" hole through both sides of the sleeve. The tappers and the two holes allows for very good weld penetration. I'll add a large washer to this and weld both ends of the sleeve to the OEM head and the large washer at the other end of the sleeve.


Attachment: IMG_5461.JPG (3.9 MB) 12 View(s)


This last pic sure isn't pretty.... but it's functional and very strong. After I welded the stud ends and both holes, I then welded the sleeve ends to the OEM head and the large washer to the right.... then I welded on from end to end over the sleeve to build up the overall thickness. I spent very little time cleaning it up... then painted it to help prevent rust.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-23-18 04:59 AM - Post#2737965    
    In response to MarkISS

This will be a short post... just a quick update to show a few thingsā€¦ i.e., Panhard bar installed on new/modified axle mount stud, header install and header collector with O2 sensor bung welded in and sensor installed (Since my engine has the Holley Sniper EFI, it needs an O2 sensor in the exhaust). I'm expecting to have the chassis brake lines all installed this weekend, along with the exhaust and fuel line.

Stay tuned, Mark


Attachment: IMG_5468.JPG (3.02 MB) 14 View(s)


This pic shows the Panhard bar installed with plenty of clearance to the new diff case and studs.


Attachment: IMG_5463.JPG (3.6 MB) 14 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5460.JPG (2.97 MB) 13 View(s)


Here you see the right side header installed. I used Stage 8 header bolts which have a "locking" flange and clip to prevent them from loosing. Also, these headers appear to be chrome or stainless steel, but they are just plain mild steel with a ceramic coating to help keep exhaust heat inside the header. The ceramic coating is usually a flat/dull gray, but in this case, after the ceramic coating is baked on, they put the header is a large vibrating container with small beads (ceramic beads or some other media). The vibrations of the beads/media contacting the headers will polish them. The process is very similar to polishing bullet brass cases in a vibrating crushed walnut shell unit, only on a much larger scale.


Attachment: IMG_5466.JPG (2.69 MB) 13 View(s)


The header collector with O2 sensor and bung installed.


Attachment: IMG_5467.JPG (2.52 MB) 15 View(s)


This pic shows an end shot of the header collector with the O2 sensor installed and protruding into the exhaust.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-27-18 04:14 AM - Post#2738284    
    In response to MarkISS

Here's a few pics of the finished brakes, brake lines (I used SS braided lines on all four corners and the rear support to the diff) and exhaust. The Exhaust is a Magnaflow SS kit from Summitracing.com which included rear side and rear exiting dual exhaust pipes. I'll mount the rear exiting pipes and new tips once the body is back on the car so I can determine the proper clearance needed below the bumper.

I had clearance issues with the left header for both the rack and pinion steering and the oil cooler lines... I'll expand on how I resolved that in the next thread.

Much more later, thx Mark


Attachment: IMG_5472.JPG (3.19 MB) 13 View(s)


First, I went with CPPs big disc brake kit which included a new CPP master cylinder/vacuum power brake unit with proportioning valve, 13" drilled/slotted zinc coated front rotors and 12" drilled/slotted zinc coated rear rotors, dual piston front calipers and single piston rear calipers with manual emergency brakes and new e-brake cables. Lastly, the kit came with 4 OEM style rubber brake lines for the 4 corners which I didn't use... i.e., I went with DOT approved stainless steel flex brake lines made by Russell.


Attachment: IMG_5476.JPG (3.46 MB) 14 View(s)


While the first pic above showed the left rear brake, this is a shot of the front right brake. I forgot to mention above that the CPP big disc brake kit I bought also included 2 new 2" drop spindles, caliper mounts and all new aluminum front hubs with bearings and lug studs.


Attachment: IMG_5473.JPG (4.16 MB) 13 View(s)


In this pic, you'll see the new SS brake line kit I bought from Classic Industries (foreground, left side of the frame), a new 3/8" SS gas line (background, right side of the frame) also from Classic Industries, the Magnaflow exhaust/mufflers with the "X" crossover pipe and the e-brake cables. The two exhaust pipes that connect the X crossover to the header collectors needed to be cut to fit. The overall kit is all stainless steel with 2.5" pipes.


Attachment: IMG_5474.JPG (3.38 MB) 13 View(s)


In this pic, you can see the new SS brake line from from the front of the car to where it connects and passes through the rear frame cross member into a Russell SS braided flex line to the diff left/right brake line connections.


Attachment: IMG_5475.JPG (3.22 MB) 15 View(s)


From the rear of the chassis, you can see the SS braided flex line from the cross member to the diff connection point, the left and right brake lines to the left/right caliper's flex lines, the mounting points for the the mufflers to the frame's cross member and lastly, the 3/8" SS gas line that will be connected to the Holley fuel PSI regulator and filter. With the electric gas pump mounted in the gas tank, I'll mount the Holley fuel PSI regulator and filter to the rear chassis, then connect to the gas line. I'll cover all that later.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-28-18 06:03 AM - Post#2738386    
    In response to MarkISS

dealing with the two left header clearance issues ended up being easier after I thought different options to deal with it. I was first thinking I'd have to remove the headers and start dimpling the header tubes to give me the clearance I needed..... but then, after sleeping on it, I thought of better options that didn't require header removal or changing their shape. The two clearance issues I had was only on the left header... 1 with the tie-rod bolt on the rack and pinion steering and 2 for the oil-cooler hoses. The following shows how I dealt with them.

I'll cover the oil-cooler hose fix in this thread and the tie rod stud in another thread because of the 5 pic limit per thread.

Coming up... I'll put the tire/wheels back on the car with the tire dollies so I can move the chassis elsewhere in the garage and start with some body items that need addressed before I put the body back on the chassis.

Stay tuned, Mark



Attachment: IMG_5478.JPG (3.04 MB) 11 View(s)


in this pic, it shows the rubber oil-cooler hose touching one of the header down tubes.


Attachment: IMG_5479.JPG (2.69 MB) 11 View(s)


So, I made a heat shield/deflector from a piece of SS 2.5" exhaust pipe I had left over. I found a pipe that had a slight bend in it to conform with the bend in the header down tube. I then cut out a section to allow the deflector to pass over the header down tube. Then made some cuts to allow me to bend and make some mounting tabs... I'll use SS hose clamps to hold the shield/deflector to the header down tube.


Attachment: IMG_5481.JPG (3.01 MB) 12 View(s)


This pic shows the heat shield/deflector in position on the header down tube.... now need to fit the two hose clamps.


Attachment: IMG_5483.JPG (3.39 MB) 13 View(s)


In this shot, you can see the lower hose clamp is in place and holding the shield to the header down tube. I then put heat insulating covers (socks) over each of the two oil-cooler hoses and used colored zip ties to distinguish between out/hot hose to the oil-cooler (orange zip tie) and the in/cooled return hose from the cooler (blue zip tie). The colored zip ties are for future reference if I ever need it.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-29-18 09:32 AM - Post#2738503    
    In response to MarkISS

So, to address the last clearance issues I had with the left Header down tube, i.e., the tie rod stud hitting.... I made the following "adjustments".

Mark


Attachment: IMG_5486.JPG (3.07 MB) 12 View(s)


This is a pic of the right tie rod stud from the new power rack and pinion steering (the left was the same, but I failed to take a pic before I made modifications... so I'm showing the right for reference). The stud clears find on the right side, but the left had the big issue as I needed to remove ~1" to miss the header. In addition to the stud you see, there's a ~1/2" spacer behind the heim joint.


Attachment: IMG_5487.JPG (2.58 MB) 13 View(s)


Here's a pic of the modification. I first remove the cotter pin, castle nut, heim joint and the 1/2" spacer behind the heim joint. I was able to grind down the spacer to ~1/8" (picking up 3/8" for clearance but still allowing clearance between the heim joint and the carrier). I then ground down the castle nut from ~5/8" to about ~1/4". I threaded the nut on the stud, along with the reduced spacer and the heim joint to cut off the stud that went past the nut. Once that was done, I removed the nut, applied Perm RED 271 Locktite to the stud & nut threads and re-tighten the nut. I then took a center punch to dimple the stud against the nut to provide even greater resistance to loosen in several places. Lastly, I marked with a blue line across the nut/stud face so it would be easy to see if it started to loosen.


Attachment: IMG_5481.JPG (3.01 MB) 11 View(s)


In the lower left corner of this picture, you can see another angle of the modified tie rod steering stud/nut ground down.... still has the red 271 locktite drip on the heim joint. Because the stress on the heim/stud joint is a "sheer" movement going left and right during a turn, and no "pull" on the nut, I felt I didn't loose any strength at all... the only possible issue I could determine would be a loose nut... which I'll check often.


Attachment: IMG_5477.JPG (3.55 MB) 13 View(s)


In this last picture, it shows where and how I mounted the Furl PSI sensor... it's a Russell adapter with the 1/8" NPT to allow the sensor to screw into it. The actual PSI regulator will be mounted back by the fuel tank, therefore eliminating the new for a return gas line back to the tank. The Holley fuel regulator has the return line back to the tank... more on that when I'm ready to install it.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-05-18 06:21 AM - Post#2739028    
    In response to MarkISS

I'm currently doing lots of misc things before I rejoin the body back on the chassis.... e.g., engine bay wiring, new AC/Heat system, radiator, ac radiator unit, oil cooler, etc... all this is much easier without the engine bay, well, full of "engine".

I'll document the more significant items... here's a few.

Thanks Mark... much more to come... so stay tuned.

Attachment: IMG_5490.JPG (3.68 MB) 8 View(s)


I added heat shields to both mufflers.


Attachment: IMG_5491.JPG (2.73 MB) 12 View(s)


Removing the old heat/blower was a real chore. You're suppose to remove the inter right wheel well, but those nuts/bolts weren't coming off... so, I removed piece by piece. I had to use some "specialty" tools to get er done. Here's I'm removing the last screw holding the blower motor in place.


Attachment: IMG_5494.JPG (3.25 MB) 8 View(s)


the new ClassicAir AC/Heat head unit installed (looking through the empty dash glove box area)


Attachment: IMG_5498.JPG (3.16 MB) 8 View(s)


Here's the firewall side of the new AC/Heat unit.


Attachment: IMG_5500.JPG (4.08 MB) 10 View(s)


I cleaned up the e-brake and clutch/brake pedal assemblies. On the e-brake, I just wired brushed, sprayed with Break Cleaner, painted and re-lubed all the moving parts. On the clutch/brake pedals, I removed all parts, cleaned/wire brushed, installed new bushings and re-lubed. I also installed a new brake light switch and rubber pads on the pedals.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 123
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-06-18 05:06 AM - Post#2739155    
    In response to MarkISS

Progress on the AC condenser mounting/install, radiator and puller cooling fans.

Since my car had a V8, the radiator was mounted to a radiator extension from the main radiator mount. This extension (approximately 5" deep) was to push the radiator towards the engine, specifically, towards the engine mounted fan. The reason the extension was needed is the car was built for both a 6 cylinder engine and a V8. Since the V8 is a shorter block, the extension was needed. Reversely, the 6 cylinder would not have had the extension. Since I do not have an engine mounted fan and therefore installing two SPAL electric puller fans direct to the radiator, I went ahead and removed the extension just to give me more room between the puller fans and the front of the engine mounted March pulleys and accessories.

Thanks, Mark


Attachment: IMG_5507.JPG (4.04 MB) 11 View(s)


With the OEM radiator extension removed, I mounted this 4 row aluminum radiator direct to the radiator mount using the 4 existing mounting bolts


Attachment: IMG_5501.JPG (4.04 MB) 8 View(s)


This pic is from the front of the radiator mount where you see I also mounted the AC condenser. This is the left side of the condenser... take note of the two mounting tabs... they sandwich between the radiator and the radiator mount.


Attachment: IMG_5502.JPG (3.16 MB) 8 View(s)


This pic shows the right side. I pre-installed the filter/dryer and some AC plumbing.


Attachment: IMG_5504.JPG (3.04 MB) 8 View(s)


In this shot, from inside the engine bay, looking down the right side of the radiator, you can clearly see the two mounting tabs from the AC condenser sandwiched between the radiator and the radiator mount.


Attachment: IMG_5508.JPG (3.21 MB) 8 View(s)


Finally, I installed to the two SPAL puller fan assembly to the tabs on the radiator. If you look closely at SS mounting screws, you also see rubber nipples heads that have ~1/4" rubber between the fan and the radiator. This should help with any vibration. Also, take note to the top and bottom center of the fan assembly... you see a black nylon screw head going through a rubber block. This is a long nylon thread "snake" that goes through the radiator and condenser core with a nylon nut from the front side. This way the center of the fan assemble is held in place. As part of my Dakota Digital system, I'll have their electric cooling fan controller part PAC-2750. This controller allows for two different fan controls, where I can have Fan 1 come on at a lower temp and Fan 2 on at a higher temp. I can program the temp settings. Also, the fans can run after the engine is turned off for a programmed amount of time if needed/dictated by the temp settings. Much more to come, thanks Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
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