Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella InteriorsAmerican Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power WindowsRain Gear Wiper Systems
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy





 Page 3 of 3 « First<123
Username Post: Mark's 66 Impala SS RestoMod Build        (Topic#351166)
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-08-18 04:06 AM - Post#2739335    
    In response to MarkISS

Update... yesterday spent wiring the front end and engine bay. I took my time, used woven wire loom to cover the wires and lot of wire ties. I'm hiding all wire possible within the wheel wells. Nothing much to take pictures of. I'm using American Autowire kit. I've always used Painless performance wire kits in the past builds, but I must say I like American Autowire kit better. The instruction are great and you have to make up each connector, e.g., headlight sockets, etc. This way, the wire length is perfect.

Today, I'll focus on the new CPP master cylinder/power assist, Flaming River tilt steering column and drill some hole for the new hydraulic clutch master assembly. This should pretty much complete the engine bay before the body goes back on the frame. I'll still have to mount the Dakota Digital Cruise control and MSD Electronic ignition box to the Firewall once the engine is in place... along with connection of all water and AC hoses.



Attachment: IMG_5509.JPG (2.93 MB) 1 View(s)


One thing I do on all my builds is to install a Painless Performance remote battery disconnect. This way, I still have direct battery connections (e.g., starter, clock, security, etc) and indirect battery connections (ignition, accessory's, etc.). It's connect/disconnect operation is via a hidden momentary push button switch that supplies a ground to the battery disconnect solenoid to turn is on/off. It also acts as a security device. You'll also note in this picture two 30 amp fuses, one each for the two SPAL cooling fans. The Painless unit is tucked up under the fender and mounted on the wheel well. The brown wire is a "fuseable" link to the main wire block. The silver/aluminum pipe with blue tape is the liquid AC feed to the underdash AC/Heat unit.


Attachment: IMG_5511.JPG (2.92 MB) 2 View(s)


In this picture, you'll see several things... In the foreground, the heavy wire that feeds 12v to the Plainless battery disconnect. Next to that is two more wires that will have direct connections to the battery, i.e., a fuseable link to the Alternator and a "constant" hot 12v for clock, security, etc. You'll not the constant hot line I added an in-line 30amp circuit breaker. Lastly, I'm installing an Optima Battery holder on the OEM battery base plate. The battery will have both top and side connection posts.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 




MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-10-18 07:49 AM - Post#2739549    
    In response to MarkISS

Well, I finally took the time to fabricate something to hold my radiator overflow tank and power steering reservoir tank. Nothing fancy, but it is functional. Made a few mounting tabs, some angle iron and a little welding. After paint drys and mounted back into the car, I'll show the finished product. I also got the power vac assist brake unit mounted and connected to the break pedal.

More to come... Mark

Attachment: IMG_5516.JPG (3.39 MB) 1 View(s)


Here, you can see I decided to mount the holder to the inter front left wheel well skirt. Just took some L tabs, spot welded the nuts to the tabs so I could bolt through the well skirt to hold in place.... then to the two L tabs, two pieces of angle iron to form the mounting post and support.


Attachment: IMG_5517.JPG (3.93 MB) 0 View(s)


close up showing the L tabs and the bolt/nuts to mount to the wheel well skirt.


Attachment: IMG_5518.JPG (3.15 MB) 1 View(s)


pre-weld fab support removed from skirt and ready to weld.


Attachment: IMG_5519.JPG (2.9 MB) 1 View(s)


tack welded and ready for cleanup. I'll grind and wash the support with Eastwood AfterBlast/After weld then prime with acid primer and paint.


Attachment: IMG_5512.JPG (3.31 MB) 2 View(s)


Power assist brake unit installed and connected to the brake pedal.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-11-18 05:02 AM - Post#2739664    
    In response to MarkISS

Final product installed, the Power Steering pump reservoir and radiator overflow mounted.

I still need to determine where to mount the MSD 6EFI ignition box and the cruise control unit.

More to come, Mark



Attachment: IMG_5520.JPG (3.41 MB) 2 View(s)


A few holes drilled in the angle iron and mounted with supplied brackets and SS 1/4" hex bolts/nylon lock nuts.


Attachment: IMG_5521.JPG (3.22 MB) 2 View(s)


The single mounting bracket for the radiator overflow wasn't secure enough for me.... so I made another bracket and mounted to the skirt that provided a vertical tab and then used this hose clamp around the overflow tank and the tab. All good, job complete.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-16-18 06:11 AM - Post#2740147    
    In response to MarkISS

This past weekend I removed the replacement front coil springs I bought from Classic Industries... they were so stiff, it was crushing the upper control arm poly bumper (even with the engine, suspension, etc installed) plus when I stood on the frame and jumped up and down, it wouldn't budge.... something was wrong. I've read with the new replacement coil springs are not that well made to "standards" and they are way too stiff... so I felt I was in this same situation. I know once the body was back on the frame it would obviously add weight and help some, but I sure wasn't convinced it would correct the situation. As I was reading in a thread lower down on this forum, user "mcj1" wrote about Viking coilover for the B body. In his thread, he ref another thread http://canadianponcho.activeboard.com/t64748749/in...

So after research, I decided to remove the replacement front coil springs and go the "viking" route. I got a great deal on ebay that was less than anyone else and no shipping cost. In addition to his "buy it now" price, I made him a lower offer... we negotiated and settled on a win-win price.

I bought the Viking hybrid kit A225-TK550 - the 225 double adjustable model shock, with the 550 model spring, which is the small block spring. They are very nicely finished pieces, and look very well made.

I'll document the build below and in another thread.
I don't have a lot of time today... and will do the second part of this thread in a day or so.
Thx Mark



Attachment: Viking_parts.jpg (222.47 KB) 6 View(s)


This setup comes with the two spanners, and a Thrust bearing to be placed between the spring and upper collar. Instructions are very clear and easy to follow... I document some of them in the follow pictures..... You'll use lots of Anti-Seize to prevent galling... more on that below.


Attachment: IMG_5522.JPG (3.41 MB) 1 View(s)


Here, you see I loaded the shock body screw threads with Loctite anti-seize. You'll also see the upper adjustment collar, two SS rings (washers) and the thrust bearing that will go between the ring washers. I brushed on synthetic bearing grease on the washer, collar, bearing and bottom of the coil spring.


Attachment: IMG_5524.JPG (3.02 MB) 1 View(s)


In this pic, you see I have the upper collar adj nut, thrust bearing and coil spring on the shock.... what you don't see is I forgot to install the lower lock nut below the upper collar (you'll see it in other pictures)... so, I had to take this all apart and add the lower lock nut.


Attachment: IMG_5526.JPG (3.7 MB) 1 View(s)


Next, I removed the shock from the suspension, the connector bolt from the anti-roll bar and the nuts holding the strut rod to the lower control arm. I then placed a floor jack under the lower control arm and raised enough to put full pressure/load on the lower control arm to the point it lifted the from from the jack stand. Then I removed the nut from the upper ball joint to free the upper control arm from the spindle... and with a little help of a ball-pein hammer to separate the ball joint stud from the spindle. Once separated, I lowered the floor jack slowly and removed the coil spring... it's sure a lot easier to remove than to install!!! Next, I removed the red poly spring base. You'll notice the two welded nuts on the lower control arm (that held the OEM shock in place). They need to be removed.


Attachment: IMG_5527.JPG (2.84 MB) 2 View(s)


Closeup of the two welding nuts that needed to be removed. If my memory serves me, you'd have to do the same to the OEM lower control arm.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-17-18 04:50 AM - Post#2740250    
    In response to MarkISS

Continuing the Viking coil over install from above thread:

Thanks for following, Mark

Attachment: IMG_5528.JPG (3.83 MB) 1 View(s)


As you can see, I'm cutting off the OEM shock mount welded on nuts... as the new coil over shock mount will set on top of the mounting plate and be held in place with a bolt/washer/nylon lock nut. Once the nut is cut off, I took a grinder and smoothed it out and primed/painted it to help prevent rust.


Attachment: IMG_5530.JPG (2.71 MB) 1 View(s)


In this picture, you can see the mounted Viking coil over setup. You can also see I installed the lower lock nut below the upper adjusting nut. In this picture, the only open action item is to reconnect the anti-roll bar to the lower control arm. Lastly, you can clearly see the two adjustment dials... one for "C" compression and one for "R" rebound. Each has a setting from 0 to 19... the higher the number the more resistance, i.e, "stiffer". The instructions make suggestions for street use, comfort, handling, autocross, drag racing, etc. I'm going for the comfort/street use with recommended settings for C 1-4 and R 4-8. I'm going to start with C=2 and R=6. Once the body is back on the frame, I can see the current "ride height"... which I know will be very low with the 2" drop spindle and the current setting of the coil over adjustment nut at the lowest setting.... Note: you only adjust the nuts with the wheels off the ground to reduce pre-load on the spring and to help prevent galling between the adjustment nut and the shock body.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
07-26-18 01:02 PM - Post#2741231    
    In response to MarkISS

A little catch-up. I've been doing a lot of "little" stuff that doesn't warrant posting. I'm also waiting on front floor pans and the rear trunk under support. They aren't that bad, but since I have the body off the frame, it just makes sense to do it now. Who knows how long it will take to get them... In the mean time, here's some updates.

Thx Mark



Attachment: IMG_5532.JPG (3.04 MB) 0 View(s)


I bench bleed the master cylinder first, then I attached the distribution/proportioning valve to the master cylinder and bleed again. So, it's full of Wilwood High Temp DOT4 brake fluid. The clear tube and red bleeder taps you see are only temporary until I install the master cylinder to the power vac assist and attach the brake lines... just need the body back on the frame to complete that task.


Attachment: IMG_5533.JPG (3.17 MB) 0 View(s)


The custom made Denny's Drive shaft came in this week... it took about 4 weeks. This is the 3rd drive shift I bought from them... first class outfit!! Anyway, I have it installed and connected to the rear diff. Having the yoke installed in the trans shaft end, now allow me to fill with oil and install the Hurst shifter on the trans... more on that later.


Attachment: IMG_5534.JPG (4.1 MB) 0 View(s)


Once the car is complete and the full weight is on the rear, I can then adjust the pinion angle with the differential adjustable upper control arms I installed. In the end, you want the angle of the rear u-joint (drive shaft to pinion shaft) and the front u-joint (drive shaft to the transmission output shaft) to be the same.


Attachment: IMG_5535.JPG (4 MB) 0 View(s)


With the Tremec original shifter and cap removed, I can take advantage to fill the trans with fluid vs using the side fill plug... much easier. I did however, remove the side fill plug while filling to see the trans fluid run out, indicating it was full.... took about 3 qts. I'll change again after 500 miles. The Tremec original shifter was install in the rear cup you see and centered on the trans center line. That's fine with a new modern car, but the Impala requires it to be moved to the forward cup and offset to the left to use the factory OEM style console and have the "correct" look. I could have left in the center, but that would mean a custom made console. To accomplish the offset, Hurst makes an offset shifter and cap to replace the Tremec one. It also came with a new Hurst shifter shaft and white cue-ball style shift knob with a 5-spd shift pattern in black etched into it.


Attachment: IMG_5538.JPG (3.34 MB) 0 View(s)


Here's the Hurst "Black Jack TKO" installed. I used grey oil resistant RTV silicon for the gasket (same that Tremec used). I only snugged the bolts to prevent squeezing out all the RTV... will let it set and then tighten the cap done to the trans case. You can also clearly see the left offset where the shifter shaft will connect. This is a high quality piece. I think the design makes it a little bit of a short shifter by changing the pivot point of the shaft shifter rod where it enters the cap (i.e., the higher the pivot point, the shorter the shifter throws, e.g, 1st to 2nd, etc)


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Texasray 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 70
Texasray
Loc: Texas
Reg: 11-01-16
08-04-18 04:28 PM - Post#2741959    
    In response to MarkISS

  • MarkISS Said:
The Exhaust is a Magnaflow SS kit from Summitracing.com which included rear side and rear exiting dual exhaust pipes.

Much more later, thx Mark




Hey Mark, just went back and checking out your exhaust. I did the same Magnaflow but am having a clearance problem over the axle. The pipes are too close to the axle in front and almost hitting the body as it transitions back down behind the axle. I am running a T-56 and moved the Trans crossmember bracket about 4 inches back on the frame. It didn't occur to me that it moved my X crossover back also, so as to go thru the crossmember humps. I looked at your pictures again to verify my theory, but the rear of your mufflers seem to be exactly where mine are now.
So now I am confused, but pretty sure my mufflers need to go further forward, so I will continue my pondering ways.
From your pictures I don't see where you moved your crossmember back nor are you using your original with the humps for exhaust clearance. So perhaps your X ended up to be in the correct placement and if that is true I must have something else causing my misalignment.
Thanks for the thorough write up, beside inspiration it gives a little "food for thought" on what is possible.

Sam



 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
08-04-18 05:09 PM - Post#2741964    
    In response to Texasray

Hi Sam. On vacation. I’ll reply Monday

Stay well
Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Texasray 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 70
Texasray
Loc: Texas
Reg: 11-01-16
08-05-18 04:33 PM - Post#2742043    
    In response to MarkISS

No problem, enjoy you vacation.

Today I just jumped off into it. Pulled the X pipe and put a wrap around each with 2 inch tape and cut and welded them back. Worked out great. As I said it was a self inflected wound. It just took a bit of thought to work out what was to be done.

Thanks again for taking the time to document your project.

Sam



 
MarkISS 
Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 99
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
09-08-18 04:11 AM - Post#2745623    
    In response to Texasray

Just a quick update..... I've been tied up doing "other stuff" that has taken me away from working on the 66 Impala SS... but, in the next weeks or so, I'm back at it... so stay tuned and sorry for no updates for the past month or so.

Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 




 Page 3 of 3 « First<123
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

3814 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.15 seconds.   Total Queries: 23   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 11:59 AM
Top