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Username Post: Mark's 66 Impala SS RestoMod Build        (Topic#351166)
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-18-18 01:37 PM - Post#2734265    

Hello All,
Update January 2020
I'm new to ChevyTalk.org forum and very glad to be here to document my build.
I've been asked by many to document my 1966 Chevy Impala SS Resto-Mod build. I'll keep updated this thread... so it may end up being a bit long.

Background on the Build Strategy:

The intent of this build is clearly a Resto-Mod, with modifications being the key focus. I want a modern chassis, suspension, braking, steering, tires and comforts, but pretty much "look" like the original 66 Impala SS.

So, this classic Impala won't be close to the original except the body and minor modifications to the frame by platting and reinforcement for the increased power and torque. It will be a modern chassis/suspension, the motor is a 434 cu. in. SBC bored and stroked from a new Dart block making about ~550 hp and ~530 foot lbs of torque, with a Holley Sniper EFI vs a carburetor. Since this car may be my daily driver, my requirements to the engine builder (Bruce/Brad/Matt at the Engine Factory) were pump gas, good vacuum for power brakes, dual plane intake, and throttle body fuel injection with the highest quality USA made engine components. This power plant will drive through a McLeod RST twin clutch, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed OD manual trans with .64 overdrive and a posi-track rear end. Power brakes, power rack and pinion steering and hydraulic driven clutch are part of the mix also. The Impala SS will also have air conditioning, backup camera, GPS driven Dakota Digital Speedo, cruise control, new gas tank from Aeromotive with electric furl pump built-in, Ceramic coated headers, Magnaflow 2.5" stainless steel dual exhaust, exterior moldings/trims/badging, grill and gauges . Some of my gauges will be custom made by Speed Hut to match the Dakota format/backgrounds, e.g., Oil Temp, Vacuum, Clock and Fuel pressure. For the Impala's interior, I'll be fitting new seat covers, foam and springs, building my own 4 speed console from the standard 3-on-the-tree console, along with new door side card, handles, hidden modern stereo system/speakers, intermittent wipers, Flaming River tilt steering column/wheel, etc.

So, bottom line, a total custom car with 52 54 year old sheet metal.

I started with a very good condition Impala SS, 283 cu. in. V8 and 3 on the tree.

The pictures below are of the car as I bought it. Much better looking than is actually was. I have lots of work to do which I'll document along the way with pictures.

Some ask, Why I do this?... simple answer is I've gained so much knowledge from others in many different forums for all the car builds I've done. Therefore, me documenting my builds in detail is my way to "Pay it forward".

So, stay tuned and I'll start the updates. I've been working this project for awhile and have taken tons of pictures, learned a lot from this forum's members like all of you. Hopefully what I can share can help some of you as much as the help I've received.

Thanks and I'm happy to have each you follow along this journey.
Regards, Mark

PS: If you're a guest and not a member of this forum and want to subscribe to this thread, click here to become a member (free): https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/index.php?refer...



Attachment: 8062984fd735ef_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (69.53 KB) 82 View(s)


1966 Chevy Impala SS, Black on Red, Jan 66 build


Attachment: 806307b99d2628_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (72.69 KB) 71 View(s)




Attachment: 806305c13b7f96_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (84.85 KB) 55 View(s)


Red Interior with console and bucket seats


Attachment: 8071025858e8be_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss__1_.jpg (83.26 KB) 78 View(s)


Original Window Sticker


Attachment: 80710007595c39_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (86.05 KB) 60 View(s)


Original Protect-O-Plate and I have the original factory build sheet, Tenn Title and Tenn registration. With the car spending it's life in Tenn, this Impala should only have seen very little snow/ice/salt.




Edited by MarkISS on 01-27-20 04:30 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 358
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
05-18-18 02:55 PM - Post#2734269    
    In response to MarkISS

I look forward to watching your build. I respect your purpose for your build, and while your choices aren't the same as I will make for my car, they are the choices that will make your car what you want.
I am curious about a couple of your statements. First, you mentioned that you are making a custom console for your build. I'm wondering why you don't go with a stock 4 speed console. I have seen the 4 speed manual consoles being reproduced (but not the automatics), so why not start there?
Second, why use a GPS based speedometer? Since you're going with the Dakota Digital speedo, wouldn't it be easier to just run off the transmission. One concern I've always had for GPS based speedos, is what happens when you go in a tunnel, or lose the GPS signal for some reason. I wonder how well they work in cities with tall buildings.



 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-19-18 04:21 AM - Post#2734313    
    In response to jktucker92

JKTucker92... thanks for your comments and questions.
First the 4 spd console. You can't buy a complete 4 spd console any longer, at least I couldn't find any. Occasionally, you might see a used one on eBay but have been in pretty rough shape. You can buy some parts new, e.g., the base, trim around the shifter opening and brushed metal top, but that leaves a lot you can't buy. So, when I say "build" one, I mean I'll have to use parts from my original non-4spd console, cut it for the shifter opening, and piece one together... so it will "look" like the original one, at least pretty close. I'll document all that when the time comes.

Second, the GPS speedo. I've used them for several other car builds and have had very good luck. They are very accurate and can accommodate any gearing, tire size change, etc. You are most likely correct that a very long tunnel or high items like building, etc could block the signal, but that hasn't been an issue for me. The electronics still sense the tach/RPMs, and the logic keeps the speed needle steady knowing the signal may be intermittent. Remember, GPS have multiple satellite signals, so it's hard to lose all of them except in a tunnel, but tunnels aren't that long to be an issue. The GPS speedo is really no different then any GPS Nav system like Garmin or an OEM Nav system.

Regards, Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-19-18 05:38 AM - Post#2734318    
    In response to MarkISS

OK, so my first update from a few weeks ago... I placed my engine order with the Engine Factory and with my great friend Steve O, we got the body off the frame.

The basic engine I ordered can be viewed at this link: http://enginefactory.com/434CSB575HP.htm

It's a new Dart SHP block w/Splayed 4 bolt main caps, eagle 4340 4.0" stroke forged steel crank, Eagle 4340 6.0" H-Beam connection rods, Forged Pistons w/10.25:1 compression, Moly rings, AFR heads, etc. etc. I sent them my RAM Steel 168 tooth flywheel and I have my own March package with the corvette reverse water pump, PS pump, AC and 1 wire alternator... more on the March when I install it. As you'll see in the pictures, the engine is keeping with the whole Back/Red theme of the car.

next thread I'll show some body/frame separation.

Mark

Here's a few pics of the engine build so far:



Attachment: IMG_7165.jpg (125.3 KB) 109 View(s)


short block build


Attachment: IMG_7187.jpg (120.24 KB) 63 View(s)


short block bottom showing crank with attached connecting rods


Attachment: IMG_7194.jpg (137.19 KB) 51 View(s)


AFR heads installed


Attachment: IMG_7199.jpg (127.16 KB) 55 View(s)


Moroso sump/oil pan and dual plain air gap intake installed


Attachment: IMG_7208.jpg (129.2 KB) 50 View(s)


Engine complete, now ready to move over to the engine room where they will run it for 40+ minutes for initial break-in and check for leaks.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


Edited by MarkISS on 05-19-18 05:39 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-19-18 05:55 AM - Post#2734320    
    In response to MarkISS

Now for some Body/Frame updates.

As I said, my best friend Steve O made a visit from Florida all the way to Brevard, NC and we took the time to separate the body from the frame.

We used 2 4x4 posts screwed to my lift plates to have them lined up with the pinch welds of the body. Most of the body mount bolts had to be cut out.



Attachment: IMG_5217.JPG (2.99 MB) 50 View(s)


Here, you see the 4x4s on the pinch welds. Since the pinch welds are on the inside edge of the 4x4s, we screwed the posts to the lift plates to keep them from rolling.


Attachment: IMG_5218.JPG (2.96 MB) 58 View(s)


here's a close up


Attachment: IMG_5221.JPG (2.34 MB) 45 View(s)


an another close up


Attachment: IMG_5224.JPG (2.74 MB) 50 View(s)


Houston, we have lift off, the body and frame are separated!


Attachment: IMG_5228.JPG (4.3 MB) 55 View(s)


With the separation, now comes the dismantling of the suspension from the frame.... Most of of the suspension parts will be replace with better, modern parts. I'll rebuild the rear differential with a new Trutrack posi, 3.73 gears, new higher strength Yukon Axles, all new bearings and I'll add a drivers side upper control arm to give me 4 point/link vs 3 point rear/link for more robust strength to better handle the high HP and torque from the new engine.... more on all that later.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-20-18 04:01 AM - Post#2734395    
    In response to MarkISS

Starting at the rear, I'm finding lots of frozen nut & bolts... and many had to be cut off.


Attachment: IMG_5225.JPG (3.35 MB) 53 View(s)


This pic shows the right/pass-side upper control arm being removed. I'll be adding an additional one to the left/drivers-side for additional strength. Both upper control arms will be adjustable vs the shim set up Chevy used.


Attachment: IMG_5226.JPG (3.24 MB) 46 View(s)


I took the time to drain and breakdown the differential... I'll rebuild and document later.


Attachment: IMG_5230.JPG (3.76 MB) 53 View(s)


In this photo, I'm removing the axle which will now let me remove the rear brakes and backing plate from the diff/axle housing.


Attachment: IMG_5238.JPG (3.48 MB) 55 View(s)


I now have the frame striped of everything and mounted on a ghetto rotisserie, i.e., I'm using two engine stands.... works great I might add and I can rotate 360*. I'll do a basic cleanup and have the frame sandblasted. In this first shot, I already have the rear of the frame mounted to the rear engine stand and now using my shop hoist to lift and mount to the front.


Attachment: IMG_5242.JPG (3.22 MB) 48 View(s)


In this shot, you'll see the front mounted with some angle iron and hooks. BTW, I take 100s of pictures and they are always high resolution. If anyone ever wants to see something else, let me know. If you send me a PM with your email address, I can also send you the high resolution pic vs the reduced quality allowed on our forum's threads. Thx and stay tuned, Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-21-18 04:06 AM - Post#2734480    
    In response to MarkISS

The following shot shows the frame rotated and cleaning has begone.... I bet I removed at least 50 lb of dirt and rocks from the frame. I used water and my air compressor. Also, I found a few week spots/rust troughs that will need repaired. I will also plate the entire mid section of the from and box in the two rear rails.



Attachment: IMG_5244s.jpg (139.9 KB) 49 View(s)


Over all, frame not in bad shape for being 52 years old... but I'll add lots of new steel, weld a lot of the seems fully and angle-iron on the corners. I'll also add steel plating where the two upper control arms will attach.


Attachment: IMG_5255.JPG (4.23 MB) 51 View(s)


This pic shows the clean up as far as I'll take it.... not off to the sandblaster ! PS: as always, comments welcome, including suggestions on how to do better and changes/additions I should consider while at this stage. I have a detailed process I'll do on the frame after sandblasting... e.g., Clean internal frame again, wash down the sandblasted exterior with Eastwood's "AfterBlast" product. It's basically Aqueous cleaners and phosphoric acid that clean and etch the metal, but most importantly, protects the bare metal with a Zinc phosphate coating that improves paint, primer or powder adhesion..... and also protects against flash corrosion! Great Product I've been using for years. Perfect for new welds also.




Attachment: IMG_5244.JPG (1 B) 58 View(s)

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


Edited by MarkISS on 05-21-18 04:08 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-21-18 07:18 AM - Post#2734497    
    In response to MarkISS

Quick update on the engine... the Engine Factory sent a few pics of the engine on the startup stand and a video of it running... they posted the Video on Facebook, and you don't need to be a member of Facebook to watch... here's the video Link: https://www.facebook.com/MuscleCarEngines/vide os/1...

Expect engine delivery this week, i.e., w/o May 21

Thx Mark



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Attachment: IMG_7210.jpg (123.64 KB) 47 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_7212.jpg (78.94 KB) 42 View(s)


This is the Holley Sniper EFI screen that I'll mount in the car in a "out of site" location.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
WarrenL 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1209
WarrenL
Loc: Hebron, ME
Reg: 11-17-04
05-22-18 04:29 AM - Post#2734578    
    In response to MarkISS

Could you post photos of the build sheet and trim tag on the firewall? Not sure I have this one in my research database. Unusual to see a SS with 3spd manual trans



 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-22-18 04:37 AM - Post#2734579    
    In response to MarkISS

I had the frame sandblasted... David came over, picked up the frame for me and I followed him to his shop a few miles from my house.... I then stayed to watch and help him unload/load and flip the frame. He was done in about an hour.... he had a really powerful industrial sand blaster.


Attachment: IMG_5276s.jpg (207.58 KB) 48 View(s)


David doing the sand blasting... very loud!.. but very effective and fast.


Attachment: IMG_5279.JPG (4.29 MB) 142 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5281.JPG (3.9 MB) 54 View(s)


A totally clean sand blasted "B" body frame back home and re-mounted on the engine stands. I'll now clean the interior of the frame again and any loose rust and sand.


Attachment: IMG_5280.JPG (3.1 MB) 45 View(s)


As I said in a previous post above, I now apply a heavy coat of Eastwood's After Blast to help clean and protect the blasted frame.


Attachment: IMG_5287.JPG (3.85 MB) 55 View(s)


And, clearly visible on the left rear frame rail is the VIN, Part Number, Manufacture BUDD and the date 12/30/65 (full disclosure, I had to post questions in the Impalas.net forum's General Tech section to get the answers to what all these numbers meant. Here's the link if interested: Help, numbers on 66 Impala "B" body frame: http://www.impalas.net/forums/attach...1&d=1525349109


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-22-18 05:01 AM - Post#2734584    
    In response to WarrenL

Warren... here's the build sheet and firewall tag. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need anything further.

Attachment: IMG_5307.JPG (2.57 MB) 65 View(s)


Here's the build sheet to the 66 Impala SS


Attachment: 8063175627e183_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (66.74 KB) 57 View(s)


The Trim Tag on the Firewall to the 66 Impala SS


Attachment: 806316792ba41c_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (64.73 KB) 45 View(s)


And the VIN Tag to the 66 Impala SS


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 358
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
05-22-18 08:36 AM - Post#2734607    
    In response to MarkISS

Thanks for the information on the GPS Speedo. It makes sense that a quality system would have other inputs to account for lost satellite coverage.
One thing I ran into on my build (see thread below) was the reproduction body mounts were too large to fit through the holes in my frame. Most of the research I did on this issue suggested that this was only a problem in '65. However, my '66 Convertible had the same issue and the frame was stamped February 1966. Given that your frame was manufactured in '65, make sure you check before you start trying to set the body on the frame and find out the bushings don't fit. Most people have bored the holes in the frame out slightly to match the new bushings. I chose to cut the bushings down instead because I didn't want to modify anything original that I didn't have to.

https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...



 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-22-18 08:46 AM - Post#2734610    
    In response to jktucker92

  • jktucker92 Said:
... One thing I ran into on my build (see thread below) was the reproduction body mounts were too large to fit through the holes in my frame. Most of the research I did on this issue suggested that this was only a problem in '65. However, my '66 Convertible had the same issue and the frame was stamped February 1966. Given that your frame was manufactured in '65, make sure you check before you start trying to set the body on the frame and find out the bushings don't fit. Most people have bored the holes in the frame out slightly to match the new bushings. I chose to cut the bushings down instead because I didn't want to modify anything original that I didn't have to....




Thanks... that's good info to have regarding the bushings and size check.... Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
threeimpalas 
Senior Member
Posts: 1191

Loc: Central Iowa
Reg: 02-21-02
05-22-18 10:06 AM - Post#2734621    
    In response to MarkISS

Why don't you just use the electronic speedometer output from the TKO? Cheaper and more reliable than the GPS box.

Mike
'58-62s and 348/409s


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-22-18 12:17 PM - Post#2734633    
    In response to threeimpalas

Mike, you are correct as you can calibrate to different wheel and diff gears.... But GPS does not need calibration and gives you a few more options in the units display, e.g., Compass heading, Altimeter data, and automatic Clock syncing, all with fully automatic calibration! No DIP switches, no guessing, no inaccuracies, period.

I'll admit, I'm a gadget guy

Thanks for your comments, Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
jduffett 
Newbie
Posts: 31

Loc: Hamilton Ontario
Reg: 05-21-17
05-22-18 02:47 PM - Post#2734655    
    In response to MarkISS

  • MarkISS Said:
First the 4 spd console. You can't buy a complete 4 spd console any longer, at least I couldn't find any. Occasionally, you might see a used one on eBay but have been in pretty rough shape. You can buy some parts new, e.g., the base, trim around the shifter opening and brushed metal top, but that leaves a lot you can't buy. So, when I say "build" one, I mean I'll have to use parts from my original non-4spd console, cut it for the shifter opening, and piece one together... so it will "look" like the original one, at least pretty close. I'll document all that when the time comes.



Mark, there's a guy on Facebook who repairs and sells 66-67 consoles. https://www.facebook.com/groups/65235882489307 3/pe...
That listing shows auto consoles, but he has had 4-speeds before. I can't vouch for him as a seller or for the quality of his work. They're not cheap, but given that consoles of any sort fetch a decent $ it might not be a bad option for you to pick up a 4-speed and sell yours intact.


John
66 Impala SS


Edited by jduffett on 05-22-18 02:48 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-22-18 04:04 PM - Post#2734663    
    In response to jduffett

  • jduffett Said:
  • MarkISS Said:
First the 4 spd console. You can't buy a complete 4 spd console any longer, at least I couldn't find any. Occasionally, you might see a used one on eBay but have been in pretty rough shape. You can buy some parts new, e.g., the base, trim around the shifter opening and brushed metal top, but that leaves a lot you can't buy. So, when I say "build" one, I mean I'll have to use parts from my original non-4spd console, cut it for the shifter opening, and piece one together... so it will "look" like the original one, at least pretty close. I'll document all that when the time comes.



Mark, there's a guy on Facebook who repairs and sells 66-67 consoles. https://www.facebook.com/groups/65235882489307 3/pe...
That listing shows auto consoles, but he has had 4-speeds before. I can't vouch for him as a seller or for the quality of his work. They're not cheap, but given that consoles of any sort fetch a decent $ it might not be a bad option for you to pick up a 4-speed and sell yours intact.




Thanks John for the info, but I already bought a lot of parts and can't "turn back" now. I've started the console build and I'll document that soon.

Regards, Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1420

Age: 59
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
05-23-18 05:40 AM - Post#2734718    
    In response to MarkISS

Mark,
great write up so far and good info.

I have a complete Speed Hut gauge package in my 71 C10 that is great. GPS speedo works great and don't have to calibrate it when you change tires are gears. I've had it now for 5 years and it's never lost signal ever, even in Huston, Chicago and Charlotte. Tunnels didn't even bother it up in the Blue ridge Mts of NC & SC.
Really like the 66 great job. Need to meet up some day and check out the vehicles. I have my 64 SS Impala, 56 Bel Air, 71 C10 and a 67 Ramp truck.I'm about hr south of you in Liberty SC.
You ever come down to Greenville to the Cars & coffee?



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


Edited by Andy4639 on 05-23-18 05:50 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-23-18 05:58 AM - Post#2734720    
    In response to Andy4639

  • Andy4639 Said:
Mark,
great write up so far and good info.

I have a complete Speed Hut gauge package in my 71 C10 that is great. GPS speedo works great and don't have to calibrate it when you change tires are gears. I've had it now for 5 years and it's never lost signal ever, even in Huston, Chicago and Charlotte. Tunnels didn't even bother it up in the Blue ridge Mts of NC & SC.
Really like the 66 great job. Need to meet up some day and check out the vehicles. I have my 64 SS Impala, 56 Bel Air, 71 C10 and a 67 Ramp truck.I'm about hr south of you in Liberty SC.
You ever come down to Greenville to the Cars & coffee?




Thanks Andy... once I get'r on the road, we'll have to meet up. I'll have to attend the Greenville Cars and Coffee... as I also intend to do the Asheville Cars and Coffee. Let's stay in touch. If you're ever in the Brevard area, let me know and you'll have to stop by.

Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2885
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
05-23-18 12:57 PM - Post#2734754    
    In response to MarkISS

I'm glad you posted over in the 58-64 forum. I look forward to following your build.

I had a lot of fun writing my build thread of the 61.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


Edited by 56_Kruiser on 05-23-18 01:08 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-23-18 01:02 PM - Post#2734755    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

  • 56_Kruiser Said:
I'm glad you posted over in the 58-64 forum. I look forward to following your build.





Thanks 56_Kruiser....

I'm glad you saw it and now following my build thread... I'm sure I can learn a thing or two from you.

Regards, Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Double Aught 
Contributor
Posts: 340

Loc: SW America
Reg: 09-28-11
05-23-18 08:17 PM - Post#2734792    
    In response to MarkISS

Impressive build.



 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-24-18 03:57 AM - Post#2734808    
    In response to Double Aught

Thanks Double_00

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


Edited by MarkISS on 05-24-18 03:58 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-24-18 10:55 AM - Post#2734844    
    In response to MarkISS

I have started the 4 speed console build from my "plan Jane" console.

The next picture is of my original plan console since my car was a manual trans with 3-on-the-tree.



Attachment: 8063615e2b807b_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (99.55 KB) 49 View(s)


My "plan Jane" console is my starting point... The only usable part are the Metal Tops (rear glove box lid, ash tray lid, front horizontal part and the front top hood with metal filler) and the front top hood for the 4-Speed conversion (remember, I'm installing a Tremec TKO-600 5-speed with a Hurst shifter conversion that will put the actual gear shifter in the stock OEM position. I'll have to cut the metal for the 4-speed opening.


Attachment: IMG_5264.JPG (2.88 MB) 45 View(s)


In the foreground of this picture, I was able to buy a new plastic base, 4-speed, console in black.... so I washed/cleaned it, added a plastic prep base paint followed by an interior RED paint. In the background of the picture, you can see the front horizontal metal part, from my original console, that I have already cut out for the 4-speed gear shifter opening. You'll also notice back left (then moving left to right) the original hood repainted,new brushed metal surfaces and the original ash tray (cleaned). In the front brushed replacement metal, it had 5 pre-drilled holes for the stock 4 speed badge... so I had to buy the 4 speed badge to fill the holes (even though I'm installing a 5 speed). Since the 4 speed badge had 5 holes and back rivet-type fasteners, I had to drill recess holes in the original front horizontal part (note, the 5 recess holes just above the part I cut out for the 4 speed).


Attachment: IMG_5265.JPG (2.71 MB) 41 View(s)


In this picture, you can see the only other 4 speed console part available, i.e., the trim ring for the 4 speed opening (back left). In the foreground (front left) you see the original metal filler for for the console's front hood. I'll end up cutting a hole and adding a clock to this piece. Note: I was also able to buy the two rubber boots that will attached to the trim ring and the floor board/hump where I have to cut out for the shifter.


Attachment: IMG_5315.JPG (3.5 MB) 45 View(s)


Lastly, this picture shows the Dakota Digital dash unit (speedo, tach, furl gauge, water temp, oil pressure and volts) to replace the original speedo, gas gauge and clock, the the 4 SpeedHut gauges (clock for console hood, Vac, Oil Temp and Fuel Pressure for a below the dash, old school, mounted 3 gauge bracket.


Attachment: 806313d3017818_low_res_1966-chevrolet-impala-ss.jpg (93.2 KB) 41 View(s)


This is just a reference picture of the original dash speedo being replace by the purpose built Dakota Digital unit for a 65-66 Impala.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Andy4639 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1420

Age: 59
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
05-27-18 07:10 AM - Post#2735037    
    In response to MarkISS

There is a nice restro gauge shop in Greenville SC. I just had the orignal look a like tach for my 64 done by them. Very nice and reasonable price.If you kept the old ones and want them redone later on.

Yea I want to go to the Asheville C&C also. Haven't made to that one yet.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
kingkreeton 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1369
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
05-27-18 07:32 AM - Post#2735040    
    In response to MarkISS

Very cool, I'm looking forward to following the build.

Nice work



Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-27-18 07:47 AM - Post#2735042    
    In response to kingkreeton

Thanks Shane.... happy to have you follow along.

Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
05-29-18 03:54 AM - Post#2735216    
    In response to MarkISS

Memorial Weekend, 2018, update.
I spent a lot of time adding 1/8" plating and angle-iron to the frames bottom, inside and outside midsection. I also added plating to where the rear differential's two upper control arms will attach.

More coming later,
Mark

Attachment: IMG_5301.JPG (3.51 MB) 50 View(s)


In this pic,you can see the angle-iron added to the frame's lower outside edge and plating above it.. It's only tacked in at the moment... I'll weld it all up later.


Attachment: IMG_5302.JPG (2.85 MB) 49 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5303.JPG (2.93 MB) 44 View(s)


Here, you can see I've completed the entire left (driver's) side of the frame.


Attachment: IMG_5318.JPG (3.25 MB) 47 View(s)


Lastly, this pic shows the left side, front support brace for the left upper control arm. I'll have to drill the 3 bolt holes for the control arm mounting bracket soon, before I paint the frame.... so stay tuned, more to come soon!! Mark


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-02-18 04:16 AM - Post#2735665    
    In response to MarkISS

I received my new engine from the Engine Factory last Friday and now have the March complete pulley/AC Comp/Alt, PS Pump, reverse rotating water-pump, crank pulley and belt tensioner installed. Also, I finished up with the frame platting and now have the Eastwood Internal Frame coating (to stop and prevent new rust) applied. I'll paint the frame with Eastwood's Chassis Gloss Black.


Attachment: IMG_5333.JPG (3.21 MB) 38 View(s)


In this picture, You can see how I applied the Internal frame coating... Eastwood supplies an ~18" tubing with a 360*deg spray nozzle on the end of the tube. Along the top of the frame, I drilled a 3/8" hole to feed the tubing in both directions to ensure full/complete coverage. This product is pretty thin and creeps into every nook and crevice for complete coverage.


Attachment: IMG_5336.JPG (3.57 MB) 43 View(s)


As You can see, this internal frame coating runs out of every hole. Also, remember, after sandblasting I applied Eastwood's AfterBlast which further cleans and prep the metal for painting. It also leaves a coating of phosphorous to help prevent rust (see details of the product above or check it out on Eastwood's wed site).


Attachment: IMG_5321.JPG (3.82 MB) 47 View(s)


New 434ci engine with the March complete pulley package.


Attachment: IMG_5322.JPG (4.12 MB) 56 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_5316.JPG (2.69 MB) 46 View(s)


While I'm waiting for the new Quicktime Bellhousing to arrive, I went ahead and checked the RAM steel billet flywheel for squareness to the block (rotated it twice and checked at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions)... it's was only .002 thousandth of an inch out, well within spec's.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
06-03-18 04:44 AM - Post#2735748    
    In response to MarkISS

I finished up installing the clutch and bellhousing.... All within .005 thousandth of an inch. Obviously, shows the build quality of the RAM flywheel and the QuickTime Bellhousing.... However, before doing so, I had to remove the solid steel Pilot Bearing pressed into the crank so I could install a better Pilot Bearing that had Needle Roller Bearings and a rubber seal builtin to keep any grease spiting out onto the flywheel... I found a neat trick on YouTube I'll share (I'm sure it's not new to some of you, but it was to me).

Attachment: IMG_5326.JPG (2.92 MB) 34 View(s)


First, I packed in as much bread as I could into the Pilot Bearing hole/void and ground down an old bolt from the lower control arm to just fit into the Pilot Bearing. I've seen this done with Grease before, but very messy.... the bread acts like hydraulic fluid and will compress behind the Pilot Bearing and start to push it out.


Attachment: IMG_5329.JPG (2.6 MB) 42 View(s)


As you can clearly see as I hammer the bolt into the bread, that some of the bread is forced out of the bearing, but you can also see the bearing coming out of the end of the crank!!... I had to stop several times and add more bread.


Attachment: IMG_5330.JPG (2.94 MB) 55 View(s)


Bearing out on the third bread repacking. Note the remaining "compressed" bread left behind in the crank shaft. I just cleaned that out and put in the new Pilot Bearing.


Attachment: IMG_5324.JPG (3.56 MB) 45 View(s)


In this pic, I'm checking the Centricity of the Bellhousing while rotating the crank/flywheel assembly 360*.... this must be within .005". Mine was .002"... now on to install the McLeod RST double disc clutch, but first I have to remove the bellhousing.


Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 


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