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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: 350 small block        (Topic#351051)
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
05-10-18 11:09 AM - Post#2733606    

Hello everyone, I know these aren’t the right engines for our cars but quite a few of you have them in your cars and I’m wondering if anyone can help me, I’ll keep it as short as I can but I want to include as much detail as possible and I’m in the UK so it’s not so easy to nip out to get parts.
I’ve got a ‘50 Styleline and have put a 350/350 combo in it , the engine is a stock ‘74 and going by the engine numbers it’s from a c10 I think, I stripped it down and everything looked good so put it back together with new gaskets,timing gear, water and oil pump and got a carb kit and choke pull off for the Rochester 2 barrel which has a divorced choke and I made the oil bath filter from the 216 fit it ( I want to make it look stock if you see what I mean) the only thing which isn’t stock is the Pertronix igniter kit and coil, changed all the vacuum pipes and with a cheap gauge attached it pulls around 17-20 inches at tick over, the timing is set at 10 before with the vacuum advance disconnected . The thing that’s starting to get me fed up to say the least is that I can lean in through the window, turn the key and it fires up immediately and ticks over lovely but if you then try to drive it misses, pops and generally feels like you’ve got 3 plug wires fallen off so if any of you could point me in the right direction I would be very grateful. One other thing does the EGR make much difference or can you just take it off and plug the vacuum line or is there more to it than that.
Thanks in advance for any guidance

Steve



 

2blu52 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 18519
2blu52
Age: 85
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
05-10-18 11:29 AM - Post#2733609    
    In response to steveknight

I would start with checking for a vacuum leak at the carb base then the intake manifold.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
dsacton 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1030
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
05-10-18 03:36 PM - Post#2733635    
    In response to 2blu52

How does the distributer on a '74 work? Vacuum advance, I assume? Sure sounds like a leak then.

Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
DanD1950 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 857
DanD1950
Loc: London Ont. Canada
Reg: 10-16-11
05-11-18 03:59 AM - Post#2733656    
    In response to dsacton

Yes you can unplug the vacuum line to the EGR and plug the line; it doesn't matter that the valve port is left open. The only true benefit of a properly working EGR system; is that it helps to reduce combustion chamber temperatures; which in-turn reduces engine detonation/engine pinging.
If you're not concerned about emissions, you can get around the pinging, by reducing timing and enriching the fuel. By enriching the fuel I don't mean by the mixture screws; but by enlarging the two jets in the float bowl.

Dan.

50 Styleline Deluxe, 2 Door Sedan, Was a 216cu", Three Speed Manual. She now has a 4.8Lt V8 LR4 injected engine, 4L60E 4 speed automatic, 10 bolt diff 342 gear with an Eaton C80 Locker



Edited by DanD1950 on 05-11-18 04:08 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
05-11-18 10:33 AM - Post#2733692    
    In response to DanD1950

Thanks for your replies guys, I guess I’ve always thought it was going to be vacuum related but as its got new intake and carb gaskets and all new lines I was hoping there would be another reason , I’ve tried the carb cleaner trick and didn’t find anything, over the next few days I’m going to try running it with plugged lines on anything I can get away with, if nothing works there I’ll be doing a Rockauto order for some new gaskets.

Thanks again for the replies

Steve



 
50_Fastback 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 96
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
05-11-18 05:56 PM - Post#2733734    
    In response to steveknight

I recently had a problem like this and it turned out to be a crack in the vac connector to the brake power booster. Another possibility could be in the vac connector or line for the 350 trans.

Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350, Nova Rear end, Mustang II clip

2005 Harley Road Glide


 
Rustchips 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1121
Rustchips
Age: 81
Loc: DFW Texas
Reg: 02-24-05
05-12-18 09:57 AM - Post#2733775    
    In response to steveknight


Check the vacuum line to the wipers, if it's hooked up/
Cleon

1928 Chevy Coupe
1942 Chevy Special Deluxe Coupe
1955 Chevy Bel Air HTP
1970 El Camino
1990 F##d Mustang Convertible

Life is like a roll of toilet paper the nearer the end the faster it goes.


 
50_Fastback 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 96
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
05-12-18 10:41 PM - Post#2733834    
    In response to steveknight

Steve,
The more I think about this the more I wonder if there may be a problem on the ignition side of the equation.

If there are no vac leaks then it could be something as simple as a cracked distributor cap, crossed spark plug wires, marginal plug wire connections etc.

Just Thinkin'
Ron

Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350, Nova Rear end, Mustang II clip

2005 Harley Road Glide


 
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
05-13-18 05:54 AM - Post#2733842    
    In response to 50_Fastback

Thanks for the further replies,

I’ve not run the car since I first posted the problem but today I took off the egr valve and put it in my water butt and blew through the pipe with my mouth and loads of little bubbles came out so I guess that’s not holding vacuum that well so I’ve just ordered another one, anyway I’ve got a week off work so I’m going to plug the vacuum lines one at a time and take it for short trips to see if runs any better.
On the ignition side, everything is new apart from the distributor itself which I put the Pertronix in the other day and I’m sure even with how it’s running now it starts better and sounds smoother when it’s standing and not under load.

Steve



 
johnwd98 69
Contributor
Posts: 278
johnwd98
Age: 69
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
05-13-18 06:10 AM - Post#2733843    
    In response to steveknight

If it idles good but, misses when driving, it could be a failing plug wire or wires. I don't think it would pop though, that's usually a sign of a lean fuel mixture. Maybe 2 problems? With 17-20 inches of vacuum, there can't be much of a leak. One way to check plug wires, in a dark area or at night, block the wheels, have a friend put your car in gear and with one foot on the brakes, lightly step on the gas (hard to do with a manual trans). And watch for sparks jumping from the wires to the engine. Failing plug wires don't always leak voltage at idle but, they will under a load. Another way to check plug wires is with an ohm meter, safer but more time consuming.


1950 Fleetline, 350 TBI, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C,


 
DanD1950 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 857
DanD1950
Loc: London Ont. Canada
Reg: 10-16-11
05-13-18 06:50 AM - Post#2733847    
    In response to johnwd98

Another way to test ignition wire insulation, is with salt water.
In a pump spray bottle add 3 or 4 tea spoons of salt and fill and mix with water. Salt conducts electricity. Lightly mist the wires with the solution; not soak it just a light mist so the wires appear damp. Start the engine; you may see what looks like lighting bolts running down the surface of wires. I also have a test light connected to a known good ground; run the prob along the ignition wires; about 1/8th inch away from touching. If the wire's insulation has broken down; you will see spark jumping from the wire to the prob.

Dan.

50 Styleline Deluxe, 2 Door Sedan, Was a 216cu", Three Speed Manual. She now has a 4.8Lt V8 LR4 injected engine, 4L60E 4 speed automatic, 10 bolt diff 342 gear with an Eaton C80 Locker



Edited by DanD1950 on 05-13-18 06:51 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Rustchips 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1121
Rustchips
Age: 81
Loc: DFW Texas
Reg: 02-24-05
05-13-18 11:57 AM - Post#2733875    
    In response to steveknight

I'm not familiar with Petronix systems, but do they require a different coil. do you still use a condenser? A bad condenser will cause strange problems. I don't guess you do if you don't have points.
Cleon


1928 Chevy Coupe
1942 Chevy Special Deluxe Coupe
1955 Chevy Bel Air HTP
1970 El Camino
1990 F##d Mustang Convertible

Life is like a roll of toilet paper the nearer the end the faster it goes.


 
55 Shaker 
Member
Posts: 1443

Age: 68
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
05-13-18 12:04 PM - Post#2733876    
    In response to steveknight

Try a different ignition system, I've heard of people having problems with their petronix systems.

The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!


 
Toqwik 
Contributor
Posts: 289
Toqwik
Loc: Middleburg, FL
Reg: 05-14-17
05-14-18 06:10 PM - Post#2733981    
    In response to 55 Shaker

I was kinda leaning towards a distributor or advance problem. Usually vacuum issues will show at idle as well. Thrown an old HEI in there and see what happens.

Toqwik

Contentment is the smother of invention


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4286
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
05-16-18 03:22 PM - Post#2734119    
    In response to Toqwik

Hi Steve, you say you are using the original oil bath filter from the 216. Do you mean it still has oil in it and an oiled mesh.
If so please try driving it with the air cleaner off to see what effect that has?

The early V8's had big oil bath filters but they were smaller and not hard revers normally. So if you are going from 216" at 4000rpm max that is way less CFM than a 350" at 5,500rpm max. You may well be choking it of air with that filter.

If you fitted a Pertronix with a matching coil you will have significantly raised the voltage in the coil secondary (Output). So any faults in the Rotor, Cap, or leads will be quickly exposed.
You probably had somewhere in the 15-20kV range at the plugs before. Now more likely to be 45kV. If the old system was 6V then then it would be lower still.

How hard it is to fire a plug is determined by what is going on in the cylinder and what time you have. Low revs and rich mixtures at idle are easy and high speed lean mixtures are much harder. So for a given plug and gap the kV required to fire goes up a lot under load and leaness. This extra resistance may encourage the extra jolt you have out off the coil to go another way like across the cap or between leads etc.

Normally when you fit a Pertronix you have the ability to widen the Plug gap and even drop a heat range as the extra punch from the coil allows this. Wider plug gaps normally give cleaner more consistent combustion if you have the punch to do it.

Cheers kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
05-17-18 10:13 AM - Post#2734184    
    In response to johnwd98

Hello again,
Although I haven’t looked at the leads in the dark or tried misting them as DanD1950 suggests I have tried them all with an ohmmeter and all showed a reading which I hoped they would as they’re new and I changed the cap but I am waiting on a new rotor


Rustchips
They don’t need a different coil but I got their flamethrower coil that thy recommended, and no points or condenser, just an electronic module that picks up a magnetic ring that goes on the underside of the standard rotor

55 shaker and Toquik

It’s hard to try a different system or HEI as I don’t have anything to hand but it’s not a lot different running to what it was when it had the points ignition before I fitted the Pertronix kit

Bel Air Kiwi

The filter has the mesh but no oil until I can get it sorted, but I’ll try running it without at the weekend , I checked the plug gaps were all at 35 thou a couple of weeks ago but after what you said I’ll see what other people are doing with Pertronix systems

Thanks everyone
Steve



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4286
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
05-17-18 03:59 PM - Post#2734204    
    In response to steveknight

Hi Guys, the point was made that a Pertronix kit doesn't "Need" a different coil.

This is true if the internal resistance of your existing coil is within the range the Ignitor kit will work at.

However points ignitions are deliberately limited by coil resistance to only allow about 2.5 amps in the primary. Almost all OE and road type ignitions take advantage of the ability of non-points switching to increase this primary current up to about 7 amps.
This is done by using a lower resistance coil.

So there are two parts to electronic ignition. Firstly the no wear consistent switching including at very high revs.
But the second and equally important part is that they also allow the circuit to double at least the power output to the plugs.

If you just stay with a stock coil you will stay with the stock out put. This might be 15-25kV at the plug. If you match the coil to the electronic switch, no matter what type, then you can choose how high you want the output kV.

For practical and safety reasons this is held to 45kV. This is why they suddenly start easier and idle so much smoother. Also the greater potential means it is possible to run much wider plug gaps and this helps with cleaner firing.

Cheers kiwi


48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
50_Fastback 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 96
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
05-17-18 04:13 PM - Post#2734206    
    In response to steveknight

Hi Steve,
Just took a look at the pertronix site and according to them the most common cause of misfiring and breaking down under load is insufficient voltage to the distributor.

The easiest way to prove/disprove this would be to run hot lead to the distributor from battery and go for a test drive.

I think everyone following this thread would love to hear what the solution to your problem turns out to be.

Cheers,
Ron



Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350, Nova Rear end, Mustang II clip

2005 Harley Road Glide


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4286
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
05-18-18 04:52 AM - Post#2734234    
    In response to 50_Fastback

Hi Ron, I think that is their polite way of saying you forgot to take out the ballast resistor.

You would have to have a very fine wire before that made a difference.

If your battery is fully charged then it is either at 14.2V old alternator or 14.4V new alternator for the new generation batteries.

But when you start cranking and 100's of amps are flowing in the starter circuit then your battery voltage drops. If it goes below about 9.7V then points can't work.

But electronics require only tiny current to switch and given they usually have about half the primary resistance in the coil they will still produce a fat spark at 9V. Not as good as if they were at 12V without the starter working, but still plenty.

The difference between points and electronic switching is that the coil primary must flow through the points. They can only handle a few amps, about 2.3 amps, and so whether they ar 6V or 12V you must put a resistance in the primary circuit to hold the power down to that amperage.
This is done in the coil primary. The resistance in the coil primary winding must protect the points, so you can not lower the resistance and allow a lot of current to flow.

As the coil is just an instantaneous step up transformer, if you limit the power in then you also by their nature limit the power out. The size and rate of collapse of the primary current determines the secondary.( There is a bit more than just this going on and the role of the condenser in accelerating the rate of field collapse and protection against back emf matters.)

So if you run two sets of synchronised points then you can now handle about 4.5 amps in the primary. And if you did ever manage to synchronise three sets of points then you could run almost 7 amps. This is about as far as you want to go, for engine needs and public safety on the road. This would give you big fat 45kV sparks and beyond this it gets difficult to contain with cost effective insulation and older service personnel with pacemakers will get them fried if they touch this. This actually matters in the real world.

So in theory you could make a three points set set up that would be able to match the at plug power of most HEI, Duraspark, lumeninition, Hall effect, or Pertronix type systems. But it would be close to impossible to mechanically synchronise and the moment you started using it, it would wear out of position.

Anything over 30kV is going to work real well in any road going circumstance. It allows for wider plug gaps and sometimes cooler plug ranges but the simple fact is you do not get 30kV out of any single points set up I have ever seen. And you always get this from high primary current electronic setups.

The best single points setups are never as good as the worst possible from a correctly configured electronic switched system. That's why folks keep saying it starts so easy and idles so smoothly.

Cheers Kiwi






48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 05-18-18 05:16 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
GreatNorthWoods 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 870
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 76
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
05-19-18 04:57 AM - Post#2734315    
    In response to steveknight

I ran a 74 350 engine for many years in a previous car. That was the last year for the small distributor. Rather that go with Petronix, I wanted something off the shelf for my ignition system, so I converted it to HEI. It is a very easy conversion and if you need a module or any other part it can easily be picked up at your local auto parts dealer. I have not found Petronix as reliable as HEI and if the module fails you are stranded until a new module can be ordered.

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 355 Blueprint Engine, 700-R4, Vintage Air, EZ Wire, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, 59 Vette Steering Wheel, 4-Wheel Disc Brakes, Posies Springs, Coker Radials, Nova 10-bolt, Mustang II front, Continental Kit


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4286
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
05-19-18 07:35 PM - Post#2734383    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

Hi Vern, I certainly respect your view but there are a range of qualities in the HEI units out there. From the OE ones down to the asian fakes.

Personally I think the Pertonix is the solution if you have a very sound stock distributor and want it to look stock. But they don't fix a worn out mechanical distributor.

In that case if you can get a good HEI with the same advance patterns then that is far better value. But I find it hard to get vendors to tell me what the advance pattern is, given they don't even want to discuss where they get them from.

Either way you are walking home if it dies.

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
05-20-18 01:35 AM - Post#2734389    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Morning from the UK

Since my last post I’ve fitted a new vacuum advance unit and rotor but I think the main problem was caused by me in the first place by where I’d connected my PCV valve, I’d put the pipe on a barbed fitting on the inlet manifold below the carb and not on the front port in the bottom of the carb,that’s the trouble when you don’t really know what you’re doing, you’re guessing half the time, so I swapped it over and it’s made a big difference but not completely cured it.
The first time I tried it afterwards it still has a stumble when I pulled away from a stop but I’ve found by straightening the rod from the throttle linkage to the accelerator pump it squirts some gas sooner and gets it away better but having been on a few runs with and without the air filter after a few miles the hesitation returns and I’m assuming that it’s when the automatic choke is coming off so it’s got a fuelling issue that I’ve got to sort, but I’ll get there, I know most people would say get a Holley or something but as I said in my first post, I’d like to keep the engine looking standard

Cheers Steve



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4286
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
05-20-18 11:08 PM - Post#2734472    
    In response to steveknight

Hi Steve, Simply putting a functioning air cleaner on will enrich the mixtures as the increased restriction changes the vacuum signal.

You should also check whether your engines vacuum advance signal is supposed to be manifold or ported. That is, above or below the throttle plate.

Check and make sure the throttle blades are in the correct position at idle, If they are already open then that is probably masking another issue.

Cheers Kiwi


48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 926
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
05-20-18 11:49 PM - Post#2734473    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

Hi Vern, I can't remember going into a parts store that didn't have quite a few Pertronix modules in stock.

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
50_Fastback 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 96
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
07-01-18 03:23 PM - Post#2738676    
    In response to steveknight

Steve,
Did you ever get this problem sorted out? Love to know how you solved it.
Ron

Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350, Nova Rear end, Mustang II clip

2005 Harley Road Glide


 
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
07-02-18 07:48 AM - Post#2738716    
    In response to 50_Fastback

Sorry for not updating the story but I decided to leave it alone for a while as it was starting to get on my nerves .
After the break I decided to take Bel Air Kiwi’s advice and change the oil bath filter for a new one with a paper element and ordered a basic mushroom style for 2 barrel carbs with a 4” paper element , when it arrived I found out that almost every 2 barrel apart from mine( Rochester 7044114) is 2 5/8 diameter where’s mine is a shade over 3 inches so I had to make a larger ring and welded it to the new filter. After fitting it made a huge improvement but it still had a few issues so I thought as I’ve replaced most of the other parts, I might as well change the carb so I’ve ordered a refurbished carb off of Rockauto which should be over with me this week which will hopefully be the end of it and then all I’ve got to do is work out how to install the new filter within the oil bath filter to keep the ‘old’ look
Steve



 
50_Fastback 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 96
50_Fastback
Loc: California Central Coast
Reg: 09-08-14
07-02-18 09:01 PM - Post#2738767    
    In response to steveknight

Thanks for the update Steve! We're looking forward to hearing the final analysis.
Cheers,
Ron

Ron Starkey

Life's full of risks..........take one!

'50 Fleetline 350/350, Nova Rear end, Mustang II clip

2005 Harley Road Glide


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4286
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
07-03-18 04:32 PM - Post#2738850    
    In response to 50_Fastback

Hi Steve, Plenty of folks have put paper elements inside either type of original filter.
Check the posts.

Cheers kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

"They made a desert and called it peace." Tacitus


 
steveknight 
Poster
Posts: 17

Loc: West Sussex, England
Reg: 10-10-16
07-15-18 12:34 PM - Post#2740061    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Got the reconditioned carb and made sure the tiny rust holes in the base of the oil bath filter were filled, found out a paper element from a early 90’s Saab 900 was about the right size, put it all on and it runs like a dream so thank you to everyone who gave me advice, we got there in the end, at the moment in the UK we’ve had several weeks of dry, hot ( for us in the high 80’s ) so hopefully all I’ll be doing for a while is driving it
Thanks again
Steve



 
Dean50 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1270
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
07-15-18 01:47 PM - Post#2740075    
    In response to steveknight

That's great, Steve. Enjoy the driving.

Dean50



 

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