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Username Post: Security Won't Let My 88 Camaro Start        (Topic#350931)
crice73 
Poster
Posts: 8

Reg: 04-19-18
05-02-18 08:07 AM - Post#2732846    

Sometime last fall, I got a 1988 Camaro with the 2.8 V6. I brought it into the auto shop at my school because all it needed was a new coolant container and water pump. I hooked it up to a jump box and it started and ran well for the shape it's in. So I figured I would just take the battery out and charge it over night to see if it would start normally without being jumped. I put the battery back in the next day and tried starting it, it did not turn over even with the jump box. I looked this up and figured out that it went into a security lockout or something of that nature, as I don't have the original keys with the resistor.

For a while, I looked into a bypass and possibly getting a new key. The issue with getting a key was that I have no way of knowing what the ohm value I need. I also went to my local Chevrolet dealer to look into it, but I can't get a key made unless I registered the car and had the title in my name ( I have not done this as I'd rather get it running before doing this ). So I eventually looked into finding some bypass to get around this.

I eventually found this video linked below and followed what the guy said to do. After this, whenever I put the key in, the auxiliary power would work and my dash lights showed up correctly. The only thing that was strange was that my check engine light would stay on all the time, even with the key out of the ignition. I eventually wired it back up like it was before.
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrX3EF-5gCE&a mp;ib...

So after this, I decided to just start saving money for a 350 small block to drop into it. I planned to just go carbureted and rip out the computers in the car and get a new one to fit the 350. I still am planning on doing this, but if there is a way to fix it now and just drive it with the V6 until I plan to get a 350, that would be great. I did hear something about having the computer and ECU reprogrammed, but where could this be done and for about how much?

So if anyone knows how I could get the V6 running again, even if it means going ahead and getting it registered, it would be greatly appreciated. At this point, I just want to be able to drive it.



 




Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1335

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
05-02-18 02:12 PM - Post#2732864    
    In response to crice73

So check the resistor with an ohmeter, than wire in a substitute resistor in the harness from the key cylinder to the module, common bypass, plenty of info on the net. This wiil only correct broken wires at the switch causing the problem.



 
crice73 
Poster
Posts: 8

Reg: 04-19-18
05-03-18 07:19 AM - Post#2732929    
    In response to Shepherd

I don't have the resistor. Unless is there one in in the lock cylinder? Or can I just check the ohms of the wires running into the lock cylinder?



 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1335

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
05-03-18 02:56 PM - Post#2732958    
    In response to crice73

Ok, no key. That kills the bypass technique. You probably have to go around the entire security system, and rewire everything. I don't think GM has the records for that car anymore. You would have to prove legal ownership anyway.



 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 195
jktucker92
Reg: 02-05-17
05-04-18 08:03 AM - Post#2733032    
    In response to Shepherd

I'm a little confused. Do you have a key? You state that you have a key above, but you say you don't have the resistor. The resistor in these cars is in the key and looks like a piece of metal in a plastic holder. I have heard of those falling out, but not very often. If you have that metal part in your key, measure the resistance from each side of the key and that's the resistance you need. The most common failure of this VATS system is the wiring that goes to the lock cylinder. The wires are very small and often break at the lock cylinder. Those wires go to a connector at the base of the steering column and you can just splice a resistor in its place.
If you don't have a key with a resistor in it, you can buy a bypass module that is made for people to put in remote start boxes. They are actually simple circuits based on a 555 timer that produce a certain frequency. They plug in directly to the ECM to mimic the signal made by the VATS module. They make the same signal regardless of the resistor. I built one myself based on a circuit similar to this one:
http://lt1swap.com/vats.htm
but I had limited success with it. It had issues with during startup sometimes, especially if the battery was weak. I ended up re-programming the ECM to get rid of VATS. You can do it yourself, but it requires purchasing an EPROM eraser and a EPROM programmer. The software you need is downloadable, and some of it is free. It also requires a definition file for your ECU and program mask. I'm not sure if anybody developed one, but it seems likely. There used to be people out there that would program these, but I'm not sure how many still do.




Attachment: Key.png (37.52 KB) 52 View(s)



 
crice73 
Poster
Posts: 8

Reg: 04-19-18
05-08-18 07:39 AM - Post#2733380    
    In response to jktucker92

I have a key, but it is not the original key, so it does not have a resistor. I am looking into having the cars computer systems rewired and getting an original key. As long as I have the VIN,a the right key should be able to be made according to some more research I did. I will definitely look into your link and see what I can do.
Thanks!



 
crice73 
Poster
Posts: 8

Reg: 04-19-18
05-08-18 07:41 AM - Post#2733381    
    In response to Shepherd

I have a key, but it is not the original, so it does not have the resistor. So I'm looking into having my the computer rewired and programmed and getting an original key made. I did a bit more research, and I discovered that one can be made with the VIN.



 




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