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Username Post: water coming out of radiator at cap        (Topic#348966)
rain_man_rich 
Contributor
Posts: 140

Loc: Grants Pass, OR
Reg: 02-09-14
01-01-18 07:31 PM - Post#2719726    

So I had to change out one of my heater hoses to get rid of a leak. Good to go there. However, I filled it up and took it for a test drive and water was coming out from underneath the cap. i bought a new cap and installed it and it's doing the same thing, just not as bad. This morning I pulled the cap and refilled it, started it up and let it warm up completely. I watched it go through several cycles of the thermostat opening and closing and didn't see any leaks. Later this afternoon I took it for a test drive and sure enough, water was coming from under the cap again. It's no small amount either. It seems to be holding pressure as I let it cool down a bit and tried to remove the cap but the water came bubbling out as soon as I tried to remove the cap. It's not overheating as I've been watching the temp guage closely during all this and it's operating the same way it always does.

Do I have a defective new cap? Is there an air bubble somewhere? Please comment.

P.S. I forgot to mention that I inspected the filler neck of the radiator and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.




Edited by rain_man_rich on 01-01-18 07:41 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3965
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
01-01-18 08:05 PM - Post#2719732    
    In response to rain_man_rich

Unhook the over flow hose and run a piece of wire through it to make sure sure it's clear. Blow through the hose and make sure it's clear. I highly recommend a Stant lever vent cap. You can open the cap when it's hot.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
rain_man_rich 
Contributor
Posts: 140

Loc: Grants Pass, OR
Reg: 02-09-14
01-01-18 08:22 PM - Post#2719734    
    In response to bowtie44s

Thanks! I'll try that. By the way. Hard to get good parts on Jan 1. Had to settle for Autozone part that was NOT Stant, Motorad.




Edited by rain_man_rich on 01-01-18 08:44 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3965
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
01-01-18 09:23 PM - Post#2719742    
    In response to rain_man_rich

Autozone sells Stant lever vent. At least they used to. I have bought some from them. Let us know what you find when you check your overflow. Sometimes the filler neck can crack and it's almost undetectable with the naked eye.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2855
454cid
Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
01-01-18 10:52 PM - Post#2719749    
    In response to bowtie44s

  • bowtie44s Said:
Sometimes the filler neck can crack and it's almost undetectable with the naked eye.



That's what I'm thinking because otherwise I would think it would need a lot of pressure to be "coming out from underneath the cap".

99 K3500 RCLB


 
rain_man_rich 
Contributor
Posts: 140

Loc: Grants Pass, OR
Reg: 02-09-14
01-01-18 11:21 PM - Post#2719751    
    In response to 454cid

return line was not plugged. The cap doesn't feel very tight compared to other caps where you would normally have to push down pretty hard. This one just spins on pretty easy until the closed position.I will need to get the magnifying glass and inspect closer I guess.




 
CowboyTrukr 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3970
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
01-02-18 12:03 AM - Post#2719753    
    In response to rain_man_rich

Rich, check AZ or O'Reilly's for a pressure test kit for the radiator. Their loaner program should have one.

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 Auto
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD
‘87 GMC S15 SCLB 4.3 Auto - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
rain_man_rich 
Contributor
Posts: 140

Loc: Grants Pass, OR
Reg: 02-09-14
01-02-18 04:40 PM - Post#2719808    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

  • CowboyTrukr Said:
Rich, check AZ or O'Reilly's for a pressure test kit for the radiator. Their loaner program should have one.



Yah that's one of the next steps. I just picked up a new cap with the pressure relief. It felt better putting it on than the other one. I'll find out on my drive home tonight.

In other thoughts: I looked at my filler neck again. Saw nothing in the way of cracks. However, I did notice something that might be strange. The main hole in the filler neck has a core tube that extends partly into the radiator. I think, but am not sure that the top of this tube is supposed to protrude slightly up to give the cap gasket something to seal against. Mine appears to be flush or maybe even countersunk. I may have done this while jamming the funnel in I use for filling and burping the system.

I'm wondering if one of you fine people would be willing to pull your cap and see if that tube is supposed to be raised a bit or if it's flush or what? If it's raised, how much, ish?

Edit: I'm inserting a link of a picture here to give you a visual of what I'm talking about. I hope this works.

https://www.2carpros.com/images/articles/origi nal/...



Edited by rain_man_rich on 01-02-18 04:51 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2855
454cid
Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
01-02-18 05:53 PM - Post#2719817    
    In response to rain_man_rich

That appears to be a down flow radiator, and ours are cross flow. The cap seats on the plastic tank, there isn't any extra tube for it to seat on. I'm not sure what the arrow is pointing to, in your picture. It's labeled core tube, but the coolant must be distorting it's shape, and I'm not sure why it's visible.


99 K3500 RCLB


Edited by 454cid on 01-02-18 05:55 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rain_man_rich 
Contributor
Posts: 140

Loc: Grants Pass, OR
Reg: 02-09-14
01-02-18 08:18 PM - Post#2719835    
    In response to 454cid

Down flow, cross flow, core tube. Wanna know what matters? It's fixed! Tossed a Stant with a pressure relief handle on it and boom, nary a drop in 30 miles. Them effers at Autozone did it to me again. Sold me bunk junk. How do they get away with that stuff?



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3965
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
01-02-18 09:09 PM - Post#2719840    
    In response to rain_man_rich

I love the Stant caps. You can even use one to pressure test your radiator. Turn your compressor regulator down to 16psi, any more could blow up your radiator. Unhook the over flow hose and flip the lever up. Get an air nozzle with a rubber tip, put the tip up tight on the over flow hole, block pressure in and flip the lever down while you're still blowing. If you have a leak you'll hear it and see it.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2855
454cid
Age: 45
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
01-02-18 09:28 PM - Post#2719842    
    In response to rain_man_rich

  • rain_man_rich Said:
Down flow, cross flow, core tube. Wanna know what matters? It's fixed! Tossed a Stant with a pressure relief handle on it and boom, nary a drop in 30 miles. Them effers at Autozone did it to me again. Sold me bunk junk. How do they get away with that stuff?



I had one of the levers for awhile. I decided to change caps when I installed a new radiator, and bought a Murray from Oreilly. It was quite loose. I ended up getting one of the regular Stants, and that's what I still have.


99 K3500 RCLB


 
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