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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: Camaro clip        (Topic#348067)
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-05-17 08:31 PM - Post#2713383    

As noted in my nova vs m2 thread, I chose a restoration quality 67 camaro frame and high quality used components I'll rebuild. I've got all the bushings out. What a nightmare! The best Way was to cut them so the width of the sawblade was taken out of it circumference. This was after setting the rubber on fire so it in the sleeve would come out. The upper control arms weren't as easy; hours were spent with an air hammer, but it's done. I did notice one of my upper control arm shaft has a built-in camber setting… I'm probably going to use it, and hope that it doesn't make it getting the camper where I want it a challenge. I can always Rotate it 180° if I have to



I'm always quite safe in the garage… I did wear sunglasses when I used the oxygen acetylene torch… And I did the burning outside, but I can't shake the putrid smell of burning rubber, or get the ringing out of my ears from an air hammer hours and hours worth






More on this later…

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 11-05-17 08:31 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 

VANDENPLAS 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1788
VANDENPLAS
Age: 38
Loc: ontario canada
Reg: 07-29-09
11-05-17 08:50 PM - Post#2713385    
    In response to drew1987

Nice starting a clip thread?
Yeah that burning rubber smells gets stuck on the inside of you, gross stuff.

Get some brazing or oxy act glasses , slightly darker then sun glasses for torching

No real easy way to remove bushing I've torched, pressed, cut and air hammered them out depending on size and position. It's one of those " what ever works" type jobs!

Also found a big fan in the garage to push fumes and bad air out of the garage.a good thing

Safety glasses, thick gloves, leather gloves, rubber gloves ( sh!t any glove is good) dust and particle masks welding goggles and masks, a fire extinguisher a steel pail with a lid for
Old rags, good power amongst other things make working in a garage safe and fun

Don't know down there but up here some insurance companies will deny house claims if you were jerking around in the garage and not being "smart" about it


Good luck on this !

" The chain in those handcuffs is made of high tensile steel. It will take you ten minutes to hack through it with this, if your lucky. You can hack through your ankle in fivei



In the land of the blind the one eyed man is king 👑


Edited by VANDENPLAS on 11-05-17 08:54 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5395
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
11-05-17 09:19 PM - Post#2713389    
    In response to VANDENPLAS

Don't forget the hearing protection! Even short periods of time, doing that sort of work, can lead to permanent hearing loss or tinnitus. My wife says I never listen to her; at least that's what I think she said. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
VANDENPLAS 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1788
VANDENPLAS
Age: 38
Loc: ontario canada
Reg: 07-29-09
11-05-17 09:26 PM - Post#2713390    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

WHAAAAAACHUsay ????? Huh? Pardon me? Huh?

Ohhh hahaha, yeah ..... mumble mumble..... wha ?

" The chain in those handcuffs is made of high tensile steel. It will take you ten minutes to hack through it with this, if your lucky. You can hack through your ankle in fivei



In the land of the blind the one eyed man is king 👑


 
50hotrod 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 953
50hotrod
Age: 61
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
11-05-17 09:45 PM - Post#2713393    
    In response to VANDENPLAS

Hey Drew,

When do you plan to start the subframe install?


Well, you know what's wrong with the world today

People done gone put their Bible's away

They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land

"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels



 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-06-17 11:15 AM - Post#2713432    
    In response to 50hotrod

Good advice. Totally using my gun range ear muffs next time.

50hotrod I'm a ways out. Going to refurbish the used parts I got first and assemble the frame. Hoping to get to the actually grafting in a few weeks. Maybe longer.





SO... MOTOR MOUNTS!!!!


I was thinking I would use the original Camaro mounts where the vulcanized rubber is holding the car and engine together. I just got a set of brand new, name brand 1985 motor mounts (I HAVE the engine side cups on my shelf) and love the design. More rubber, 0 chance of catastrophic separation. I would need to modify the Camaro frame to accept them; I am fine with that. I was thinking at least 2 holes would be on the original structure an I can make "ears" or "shelves" that would fully support the other two. I was thinking of make a plate with stubs and welding it to the frame but then its not serviceable should one brake. I was also thinking of making adapter plates to minimize modification to a perfect subframe.

My question is, at the end of the day, NVH reduction is most important to me. Am I correct in assuming the 1985 mounts are better?

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-06-17 11:20 AM - Post#2713434    
    In response to drew1987

PS

General fabrication questions: If I make the adapter plates, there will be threaded studs (grade 8 3/8 course) going both ways: Three down to go in the stock 67 Camaro frame holes, then 4 up for the 1985 caprice motor mounts. I had imagined drilling a hole in the plats the size of the threaded stud and putting it in the hole 1/2 way or a little more, then building my weld on the thread first, then around the inside of the hole until its a bit over full, then grinding flat. It of course wouldn't be serviceable, but it would be done. Is this the best way to weld a stud to a place? Simple, and perhaps I am over thinking it but I would want to know if someone else already came up with something better. Maybe square the hole a little to allow more "fill?"

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 11-06-17 11:36 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-06-17 11:42 AM - Post#2713439    
    In response to drew1987

Just a quick sketch. I can totally see using simple 1/4 plate. Unless I want to make a big for/aft move... then I would need to have some kind of ribs or something, don't want to drop 500lbs+ onto a piece of 1/4 place 5,000,000 times (bumps in the road)


****the overhangs and shape is simple and exaggerated. The actual piece will look quite a bit nicer, IF I go this rout instead of regular 60's mounts.

Attachment: Late_Model_Motor_Mount_Adapter.jpg (1.63 MB) 196 View(s)




Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 11-06-17 12:32 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-06-17 11:59 AM - Post#2713440    
    In response to drew1987

another thing is tapping the holes in the pate so they are threaded and welded but barely 1/2 a thread will contact....

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1340

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
11-06-17 01:12 PM - Post#2713451    
    In response to drew1987

Nvh will always be reduced with somewhat less dense insulators, urethane mounts or bushings may improve handling and less flexible mounting points, but you sacrifice isolation. My 51 has all standard mounts, but exhaust resonance is bothersome. Your plan for mounting the engine sounds ok, try to get the mount points as vertical as possible to the engine for the best strength.



 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-07-17 07:28 PM - Post#2713619    
    In response to Shepherd

Yea I’ll be doing everything possible to minimize it. Exhaust will be handled with sound deadening the floor and toe board.


The mounts will be in the stock position just new style instead of old

I started walnut blasting the a arms. The frame is restored but the a-arms are used. 100% solid but used. So new ball joints, busingns, and paint. Blasting is terrible I hate it will be worth it though

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4260
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
11-08-17 01:34 AM - Post#2713633    
    In response to drew1987

Hi Drew, I don't think the later mounts are much better than the early Camaro mounts as they are both metal rubber sandwiches.
Some exclusive vehicles used fluids in the mounts but not likely to be in a Chevy.

You will find some of the more expensive mounts have more steel and it wraps around so they can't tear apart in a collision. They sometimes look like they have steel fingers like a handshake.

All I do is buy a basic early one and put it in the drill press and drill a 5/16" hole through the middle, dead center.
I then put a bolt through with a spring washer and nyloc so that it is just beyond finger tight.

That's about 6 tons of shear and tensile strength each side. So 200 times a big motor weight. Very few humans survive over 25G so I'd be long dead before the motor came out. But in racing roll overs engines dislodging and coming up and out are not rare. This is a very cheap fix which does not effect NVH.

For a 90* V engine such as a V8 the paired motor mounts must be at 45* each side. It's got nothing to do with weight and load. Its all about torque reaction and NVH.

Cheers Kiwi


48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 06:04 AM - Post#2713639    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Kiwi,

Are we talking about the same later style mounts? These bad boys are massive compared to the 60’s ones. There is also a suspending effect of the weight


The bolt hole is the same size and gives you an idea of thier size difference

Attachment: D87AADC6-2A5F-45A4-95AC-7CCC6580B837.jpeg (18.64 KB) 203 View(s)


60’s


Attachment: 27355F5C-C3DE-45C2-87F1-B93FB7010D36.jpeg (60.61 KB) 197 View(s)


80’s-90’s-2000’s


Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27574
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
11-08-17 12:44 PM - Post#2713665    
    In response to drew1987

Drew. the "clamshell" mounts (your second pic) are pretty much indestructible. They are definitely the best way to go if you are able to adapt them to your frame brackets. These must be used with a matching engine bracket, which may still be available new, but don't worry if it isn't. That bracket is a one-piece metal part which can't fail, so used ones are readily found in salvage yards for cheap.

If you are unable to use the clamshell, there is an interlocking mount which was a later development of the early type mount in your first pic. This mount can still fail in the usual way (breakage of the rubber to metal bond), but the interlock prevents total separation of the mount and limits the amount of engine movement if the mount fails. These are usually a bolt-in replacement for the 2142 (early type) mount in your pic
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=314932&...

If you aren't happy with the quality of recent Anchor products (which I can fully understand), the same mount is available from a lot of other makers. Most of these will have a part number containing 2267, which is the aftermarket industry number for this type. One exception I know of is NAPA, which uses their own unique numbering system. However, they should still be able to interchange the 2267 mount to their own number.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 01:11 PM - Post#2713669    
    In response to raycow

Ray,

I happen to have a set of the factory engine brackets from when I pulled my engine (its a 1985). So what is the complaint about Anchor lately?!

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 01:21 PM - Post#2713673    
    In response to drew1987

Today, I blasted one of the control arms and painted it. Sadly, I added more blasting media (walnut shell) and its too course (12 grit) for my tip. I am REALLY hoping someone sells replacements of other sizes.

Anyway, I also cleaned up the center link and the sway bar, painted both of those, too. I discovered (by accident) a GREAT trick, maybe some already know, but a 3m scuff pad as one would use to etch primer or clear coat soaked with alcohol is amazing at cleaning parts. Then, a clean rag and more alcohol and its about ready to paint if you aren't into concours type stuff.

One of the backing plates had a few rust holes in it, but very, very isolated. There was literally a 45deg bevel around these rust holes as if they were ground it. Must have been the way it say over the years. I cleaned it up and filled it with a patch and weld, then ground smooth. Also, the edges of the backing plate were dented in many places, and the edge actually rides IN a groove in the back of the drum, so I used a crescent wrench to work it back to perfection.

By the way, I intend to run drums. They are smaller than my 11" rears, but the total swept area is greater. If I want discs, that will have to happen at a later time.


I've toyed with the idea using these arms, spindles, backing plates, etc on a later project when that time comes and getting narrowed tubular arms and dropped disc spindles for this car. Either way, my current drums aren't as good as the Camaro drums and they are sufficient.



Attachment: IMG_1589.JPG (1.27 MB) 197 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_1592.JPG (970.11 KB) 193 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_1593.JPG (1.33 MB) 196 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_1594.JPG (1.26 MB) 197 View(s)




Attachment: IMG_1595.JPG (784.38 KB) 201 View(s)




Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 11-08-17 01:25 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 01:22 PM - Post#2713674    
    In response to drew1987

here is the center link after paint

Attachment: IMG_1596__2_.JPG (359.55 KB) 193 View(s)




Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27574
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
11-08-17 01:57 PM - Post#2713676    
    In response to drew1987

  • drew1987 Said:
.....So what is the complaint about Anchor lately?!


Unacceptably short life. This applies to the ones made in China. That's not my personal experience, because I haven't bought any mounts for quite a while, but I have read complaints about the newer ones on a lot of forums.

Older, US-made Anchor mounts were high quality parts. Those were what I always used. The last mounts I bought are now over 15 years old and they are still working fine.

Jason's bellhousing mounts have to be over 50 years old and they still look and feel good. I don't know what brand they are. His trans mount, which I assume to be original 1950, is definitely showing its age but hasn't separated yet.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 02:00 PM - Post#2713678    
    In response to raycow

Man.... makes you wonder why people (manufactures and their executives; engineers, and marketing people) even bother. I mean, whats the point of going through ALLL the trouble if at the end of the day, the product sucks? I mean, does it really have to be $5? why not $15 but it doesn't suck?

That's a shame. I wonder if ACDelco is a better choice

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 02:02 PM - Post#2713679    
    In response to drew1987

I should add: I have a set of brand new anchor ones in the box that I paid $3 for. Total, not each.


Also, I probably be doing that adapter as drawn above and running this style regardless. They are just better designed I feel

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
raycow 
Honored Member
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raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
11-08-17 02:13 PM - Post#2713680    
    In response to drew1987

Drew, if you are willing to make the frame adapters, definitely go with the clamshell mounts. Also, I wouldn't worry about who makes them. The advantage of that design is that it is almost idiot-proof. I mean, the rivets would have to fail before anything bad could happen.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
raycow 
Honored Member
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raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
11-08-17 02:42 PM - Post#2713682    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

  • Bel Air kiwi Said:
.....You will find some of the more expensive mounts have more steel and it wraps around so they can't tear apart in a collision. They sometimes look like they have steel fingers like a handshake......


Kiwi, is this the "handshake" type mount you were talking about?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=314932&...

If not, would you have a part no, or better yet, a pic?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 02:58 PM - Post#2713683    
    In response to raycow

Ray, even if the rivets (they are loop rivets) failed, nothing would happen because the upper bracket is also bolted through to the frame




As for pressing the new bushins into the control arms: NOT fun might have to make some sort of special tool or rent one of those do-it-on-the-car-still ball joint presses

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27574
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
11-08-17 03:05 PM - Post#2713684    
    In response to drew1987

Drew, you are always informing me about things I never knew existed. I just now went looking on Google, and sure enough, there it is.
https://www.google.com/search?ei=yX4DWqbyJJL w_wSrv...

And of course you are absolutely right about the rivets. All they really do is hold the mount together when it is off the car.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
11-08-17 04:38 PM - Post#2713696    
    In response to raycow

Hi Ray and Drew, yes those are the sorts of later mounts I am talking about. My understanding is they do not change the mounting, torque reaction or NVH compared to earlier designs.

They are about containing and controlling the engine mass in a collision situation. Particularly making sure the transmission does not ride up into the cabin under crash testing.

They are functionally no different from an early mount, unless the rubber fails. Then their additional features come to the fore. However As I said before you can do the same thing to an old style mount with a lightly tensioned 5/16" Bolt and Nyloc.

I only suggest this as it is a lot less bulky which may be useful.

AC Delco Purchase a lot of P&A stuff out of China now, as well as OE.

What I am trying to get across about engine mounts is almost anything will do if holding the engine up is all you consider. A piece of old tire would do fine. But that is considering only the static loads (Weight.) These loads are inconsequential when compared to the dynamic loads of torque, braking and collision.

Also if you don't want the harmonics and vibrations from the engine to come into the cabin then the axis of the mounts should be in sympathy with the internal forces of the engine. They also need to locate it accurately

Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 11-08-17 04:52 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 08:31 PM - Post#2713723    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Ray,

That’s a compliment, coming from you!

Kiwi, the stock mount position (67 camaro) is angled to help with nvh from the internal forces? Or no?

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 31
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 31
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
11-08-17 08:35 PM - Post#2713724    
    In response to drew1987

If the stock mounts were angled right, so will the 85 style if mounted flat on the crossmember. Take a look at the stock mount towers for a 69 camaro:


The surface is parallel to the crossmember surface that they are bolted to

Attachment: 8AEB95AD-559A-4587-B63B-85DE28A8AEE8.jpeg (62.2 KB) 201 View(s)




Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
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11-09-17 12:28 PM - Post#2713788    
    In response to drew1987

Hi Drew, yes the OE mounts are correct for the job. The problem arises when folks buy or make brackets that take this out and use those old style side-valve puck mounts and mount them flat.
(That is how pucks work, but they are a limited design.)

Back in the thirties the whole road condition speed thing didn't mean NVH was very developed.
As power speed and roads improved it came into focus, and now crash survivability rules dictate that mounts can't release the engine.

This is also another positive feature of the Walton's trans mount. Their loop over design will tend to hold the trans down in a catastrophic collision.

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
40grit 
Contributor
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40grit
Age: 72
Loc: Chattanooga, Tn
Reg: 07-08-13
11-09-17 12:56 PM - Post#2713799    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

The motor mounts will depend a lot on how you install the subrame. If you put it in straight, as I did, the '69 style will be fine (and look better). The last thing I am concerned with is the motor coming out in a castrophic accident. I am, however, somewhat concerned about the mount breaking and the motor torqueing over. The '69 mounts have the safety fingers that will keep the motor from lifting if the rubber seperates.

I found the stock '69 mounts worked well with 1 inch spacers at the engine. The are about an inch or so further back with the big block but the angle is right for the crossmember. I only needed the spacers because I needed to lift the engine so the BBC manifolds had plenty of clearance from the upper control arms. That would have been a non issue If I had a set of big block Camaro manifolds that are dimpled for clearance. It will also be a non issue with the small block.

The main advantage of the Camaro sub is the engine mounts, exhaust manifolds, and oil pan all think the are at home in a Camaro.

If I can fit a big block with a long water pump and not modify the firewall, engine fit is the least of your worries.

John

Just Slightly Abrasive


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4260
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
11-09-17 01:13 PM - Post#2713804    
    In response to 40grit

Hi John, well said. If you are not worried about collision outcomes then probably the next biggest loads will be rocking torque, all the time, and the odd heavy braking panic moment when the engine and trans weight is trying to shear off the rubber bond and throw the unit through the radiator.

Again the through bolt idea will save you here as the bolt under light tension stops the unit allowing a broken bond to lift or move forward. So the motor can't tilt or slide. You could use a 1/4" bolt if you want as I think they still have about 5 tons of tensile strength.

We tend to set and forget with mounts but the engine bay temps and contaminants are not rubbers best friends. Cheap insurance for a few minutes with a drill before installing.

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 

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