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 Page 2 of 5 <2345
Username Post: what is this box thing on the drivers side of the engine bay?        (Topic#346360)
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 12:26 PM - Post#2702805    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray, actually I think the engine is original. I don't think I ever said it wasn't original

Its a 283 engine 2 barrel carb. Which is what some of these trucks came with, correct?



Edited by Eric132 on 08-04-17 12:40 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ecklers

raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27768
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-04-17 12:51 PM - Post#2702809    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

Eric, a 2 barrel 283 may have been what the truck came with originally, but it sure isn't what is in the truck now

I have the pic you posted in front of me right now. Are we looking at the same engine here?

Here is what I see that tells me it is not the original engine: You have an aluminum manifold with a 4 barrel carb. The manifold does not have an oil fill tube. The PCV is connected to the valve cover instead of the rear of the block, You have extra unused grooves on your crankshaft pulley. You also have an alternator instead of a generator, but that is a fairly common swap which could be done on almost any engine.

Those are just the differences I can see easily in your pic. If I could inspect the engine more closely, I could probably find still more differences.

To identify the engine accurately, you need to post the numbers stamped into the block deck just in front of the right hand head.

Ray


Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 01:00 PM - Post#2702810    
    In response to raycow

I'll post more pics shortly but the former owners mechanic, who maintained the truck, told us it was a 283 when we asked.


And when we put a brand new radiator hose on for a 283, it fit snug like it's should and was not leaking or anything.



Edited by Eric132 on 08-04-17 01:24 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 01:03 PM - Post#2702811    
    In response to raycow

https://ibb.co/g42Vuv

https://ibb.co/foQTga

https://ibb.co/nq05qQ

the engine requires a Manuel choke in the winter



Edited by Eric132 on 08-04-17 02:13 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 01:17 PM - Post#2702812    
    In response to raycow

what engine do you propose it is if not a 283? Could it be a 307 engine? I noticed they have a hose connected to the valve cover on the drivers side.

Your best educated guess is fine.

And I will check the number on the engine block (if there is one) when I'm over at my grandfather's house.



Edited by Eric132 on 08-04-17 02:38 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-04-17 02:58 PM - Post#2702821    
    In response to raycow

  • raycow Said:
Eric, a 2 barrel 283 may have been what the truck came with originally, but it sure isn't what is in the truck now

I have the pic you posted in front of me right now. Are we looking at the same engine here?

Here is what I see that tells me it is not the original engine: You have an aluminum manifold with a 4 barrel carb. The manifold does not have an oil fill tube. The PCV is connected to the valve cover instead of the rear of the block, You have extra unused grooves on your crankshaft pulley. You also have an alternator instead of a generator, but that is a fairly common swap which could be done on almost any engine.

Those are just the differences I can see easily in your pic. If I could inspect the engine more closely, I could probably find still more differences.

To identify the engine accurately, you need to post the numbers stamped into the block deck just in front of the right hand head.

Ray



Ray; could quite well be a 283. doesn't have the later accessory holes in the heads, short w/pump and is that not a Holley 2 barrel on there.
ron


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27768
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-04-17 03:08 PM - Post#2702822    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

The only guess I can take with any reasonable degree of certainty is that the engine is very likely 69 or later. This is mainly because of the way the PCV is connected. There is no way I could guess at the displacement, but a 307 is one possibility. The last year for the 283 was 67.

The reason your radiator hoses fit is that the intake manifold and water pump hose connections stayed in the same place on Chevy V-8s for a very long time.

Btw, you are right about the 2 barrel carb. It looks like a Holley (or Holley knockoff) 2 barrel sitting on a 4 barrel Edelbrock (aftermarket) manifold with an adapter. Holley was not used by Chevy on any stock 2 barrel engine. The normal 2 barrel carb would have been a Rochester.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27768
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-04-17 03:26 PM - Post#2702825    
    In response to sidworks

Ron, you are right about the accessory holes. I just now looked again and couldn't see any. But if the engine really is a 283, why would the PO go to the additional work of swapping valve covers so he could connect the PCV? All 283 engines have the PCV/draft tube port at the rear of the block.

Ohhh wait! Now I get it at last! If the PO was such a F-up that he couldn't install the clutch linkage correctly, why should we expect him to do the PCV right?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 03:37 PM - Post#2702826    
    In response to raycow

I'm a rookie, but maybe the original valve covers got damaged in some way somehow?


It was apparently a farmer's truck the majority of its existence according to the last owners.





Edited by Eric132 on 08-04-17 03:41 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27768
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-04-17 03:45 PM - Post#2702827    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

Eric, that makes sense, although the no-hole valve covers aren't especially hard to find. Of course there could very well be some other reason why the PO had to (or wanted to) replace the valve covers. Maybe he just liked the looks of the later covers better.

Anyway, consisdering what Ron said about the accessory holes, this definitely puts the 283 back in the running again, although I am still wondering about the crankshaft pulley. Did you see any evidence that the truck could have had PS or AC at one time?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-04-17 03:53 PM - Post#2702828    
    In response to raycow

when the manifold was installed the oil filler tube was no longer there; therefore the later rocker covers were installed for the oil cap/filler hole.
just little things that were more than likely easier to do eg;oil pressure line is usually mounted from the back of the block but on here it is front mounted

ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 04:05 PM - Post#2702830    
    In response to sidworks

Ron, I was told by a shop before that the radiator is missing a shroud. Is it necessary to have one and why would that be missing from this truck?



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27768
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-04-17 04:10 PM - Post#2702831    
    In response to sidworks

Yes, I did notice the oil gauge line, but I just credited that to the PO's incompetence or laziness. Pick whichever one you like.

I'm beginning to believe there are an awful lot of truck owners named Bubba out there. Did you ever see my post about how the Bubba who owned my truck welded the front suspension crossmember to the side rails when he did his 235 to V-8 swap?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-04-17 04:17 PM - Post#2702834    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

it could well be the same reason the cover from under your clutch was missing; someone stole it!
not all may have had one. they were more prevalent after 63 production. a shroud will help moreso depending on your climate and as it does channel the airflow more directly into the fan and onto the engine. placement on the fan itself inside the shroud is also important.
they can be removed because of damage to them and not replaced
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-04-17 06:20 PM - Post#2702864    
    In response to raycow

heres pictures of the automatic radiator

https://ibb.co/kH5NPv

https://ibb.co/h5ybjv

old photos we took when the shop put the incorrect upper radiator hose on the truck, causing a leak.

but there is two outlets or whatever its called coming out the bottom of the radiator.



Edited by Eric132 on 08-04-17 06:21 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-04-17 07:10 PM - Post#2702871    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

2 things about your rad. 1 it does have a leak by looks of things where the core meets the upper tank. 2 the upper rad hold down is missing. perhaps that is not the orig rad.
those old farmers adapted a lot of things to keep their machinery running
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-05-17 07:00 AM - Post#2702915    
    In response to sidworks

The former owners had a friend mechanic. He could've changed it out. Or maybe him or the farmer took the hold down thing off for whatever reason.

The last owners live in my neighborhood area, and they were the ones who bought it from a farmer back in 2013. Then sold it to us in January of this year.

So I'm not sure if they were changing things up or the farmer was doing all these changes.

They told us that when they bought it from the farmer, it wasn't running to good and the steering column was pretty damaged. So they're mechanic (and a shop) fixed it up to where it is now and it runs and sounds real good.

Except for that Damn mechanical linkage. Whoever put that in there.



Edited by Eric132 on 08-05-17 07:15 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-05-17 10:47 AM - Post#2702931    
    In response to sidworks

Ron, I looked today when my grandfather was pushing the clutch in and releasing it and when he pressed the clutch in, the upper rod coming from the firewall went downwards and when he released it, the the upper rod from the firewall went upwards.

The rod by the gas pedal doesn't move at all when we press the clutch pedal in and out.



Edited by Eric132 on 08-05-17 11:43 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 12:38 PM - Post#2702939    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

  • Eric132 Said:
Ron, I looked today when my grandfather was pushing the clutch in and releasing it and when he pressed the clutch in, the upper rod coming from the firewall went downwards and when he released it, the the upper rod from the firewall went upwards.

The rod by the gas pedal doesn't move at all when we press the clutch pedal in and out.


I went and found a pedal mechanism and have taken a couple of pictures to illustrate it to you so that you can understand perhaps what I was talking about.
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 01:11 PM - Post#2702944    
    In response to sidworks

so let's just pretend that this is the pedal assembly is the one that is in your truck. lets just say that the pedals are in the up position so note where they are. at the same time you will note that there is a lever that is there on top attached on an end of a shaft that comes through at the top of where the brake and clutch pedal arms mount. note the position of that arm in relation to the clutch pedal

now note in the next picture the position of that lever and it's relation to the clutch pedal

you will have noticed that the lever has been elevated up wards. this is what happens when you press the clutch pedal in. therefore when that lever goes up, the rod that goes from that lever down to the z/bar goes upward. it is an act of physical means that operates the clutch assy in your truck and it has to go in order.
I do not know what the PO's bastardized in that hook up' but this is how it works
the Captainfab setup would be the simplest setup to put in your truck rather than to try and unravel all the crap that you have in there. his clutch master will operate be a rod mounted to the clutch pedal arm straight into the clutch master.mount a slave cyl and a fluid line update your master cyl at this time which will give you some more protection in case of brake failure on one end or the other. you don't know what they may have screwed up in the brake dept.
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 01:15 PM - Post#2702945    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

  • Eric132 Said:
The former owners had a friend mechanic. He could've changed it out. Or maybe him or the farmer took the hold down thing off for whatever reason.

The last owners live in my neighborhood area, and they were the ones who bought it from a farmer back in 2013. Then sold it to us in January of this year.

So I'm not sure if they were changing things up or the farmer was doing all these changes.

They told us that when they bought it from the farmer, it wasn't running to good and the steering column was pretty damaged. So they're mechanic (and a shop) fixed it up to where it is now and it runs and sounds real good.

Except for that Damn mechanical linkage. Whoever put that in there.


a lot of people have friend mechanics but it doesn't mean that they know what they are doing.
I get to fix things over quite often for customers who have had friends say that they knew how to fix it. It usually make the repairs more expensive as one has to also undo the crap that they did.
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27768
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
08-05-17 04:12 PM - Post#2702960    
    In response to sidworks

Ron, you're assuming that the PO used the correct pedal assembly and installed the linkage properly. After looking at the quality of some of his other work on this truck, I think that's assuming a lot.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 05:08 PM - Post#2702963    
    In response to raycow

  • raycow Said:
Ron, you're assuming that the PO used the correct pedal assembly and installed the linkage properly. After looking at the quality of some of his other work on this truck, I think that's assuming a lot.

Ray


I am assuming that he didn't use the correct one.
the rod is to be pulled when the pedal is depressed. Eric says that the rod is pushed down when the pedal is depressed which shows by the way his z/bar is orientated.
next post I hope explains it
ron


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 05:51 PM - Post#2702970    
    In response to sidworks

there are 2 different clutch pedal assemblies as shown in this picture. this is the one that Eric more than likely has in his truck. seeing as a 62 with a p/glide would not have a clutch pedal; some one procured one and installed it. it just wasn't the right one. the separate unit that is shown came out of a 65 GMC that had a V6 engine in it orig. the v6 also uses a different z/bar than a chev. this may explain what the difference is. I can't tell you as the vehicle that I got it out of was remounted on an 84 chevy 4 x 4 frame with an a/trans in it.
you can tell the difference in the angle of the levers. the one from the GMC would be a pusher on the rod to the z/bar like as in Eric's truck

I can also see the separate clutch pedal assy perhap being used in a 60-62 with a hydraulic clutch as that would be a pusher into the clutch master.
this shows that there is a difference in direction of travel of that clutch lever
that problem is solved
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-05-17 06:24 PM - Post#2702973    
    In response to sidworks


https://ibb.co/htN3rQ



Edited by Eric132 on 08-05-17 06:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 06:42 PM - Post#2702975    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

i have seen that picture before. it doesn't really tell anything
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 279

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
08-05-17 06:55 PM - Post#2702976    
    In response to sidworks

https://ibb.co/cPrWjv

Ron, I want to make sure we are on the same page in regards to the rod, here is the rod I was talking about when my grandfather was pushing the clutch pedal in and out.

As I saw, when the clutch pedal was pressed in, the rod traveled downwards and when it was released the rod traveled upwards.







Edited by Eric132 on 08-05-17 07:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 07:59 PM - Post#2702982    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

  • Eric132 Said:
https://ibb.co/cPrWjv

Ron, I want to make sure we are on the same page in regards to the rod, here is the rod I was talking about when my grandfather was pushing the clutch pedal in and out.

As I saw, when the clutch pedal was pressed in, the rod traveled downwards and when it was released the rod traveled upwards.






right. you want it to go in the opposite directions which I think is what I stated above
can you not see the difference in the levers?
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


Edited by sidworks on 08-05-17 08:05 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-05-17 08:28 PM - Post#2702986    
    In response to sidworks

this is the area where that rod should be meeting the lever of the z/bar; perhaps a little lower. when that rod pulls it up it will rotate the lower lever on the z/bar back to push into the throw out arm

ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3506

Age: 73
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
08-06-17 11:37 AM - Post#2703035    
    In response to sidworks

did I make it to difficult for this young fellow to understand??????????
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
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