Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
American Auto Wire Classic Industries
Danchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomJoin the Community today
Ecklers AutoMotiveNu-Relics Power Windows

Ecklers AutoMotive
 Page 3 of 3 « First<123
Username Post: My '65 Impala SS questions thread        (Topic#342244)
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
02-02-18 12:48 PM - Post#2723095    
    In response to 427SS65

Thanks again Tom.

Even in the clean air of outside the radio has steady static and can only faintly pull in a few stations. After a close look at the spartan circuit board and components nothing looks visibly amiss (failing solder joints, swollen/leaky caps, burnt components, etc.) so I sent out some feelers to the local amateur radio clubs in effort see if anyone would like to piddle with it.

----

Now a couple questions for all:

1. What is the correct sheen for the black found on trim pieces such as the grill, rear panel trim, etc?
2. What would be the correct sheen for the center console and dash metal?
(Again, not looking to be concourse accurate, close is good enough when it comes to finishes.)
3. Are front bumper lower guards available separately? I have two complete front bumper assemblies but both have left side guards with rust-through. I can find no NOS, repo or used anywhere.


.

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


Edited by chlkorg on 02-02-18 12:53 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ecklers AutoMotive
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 918

Age: 59
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
02-02-18 10:52 PM - Post#2723163    
    In response to chlkorg

From the reference materials area:
http://toms427impala.info/CT/Detailing.pdf

Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
02-03-18 11:10 AM - Post#2723190    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

Appreciate that Ryan.

I feel a fool having missed that entire sticky. Amazing amount of info provided.

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
427SS65 
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 14664
427SS65
Age: 73
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
02-03-18 11:29 AM - Post#2723191    
    In response to chlkorg

EJ -

I'm updating that document now. Adding some console info that was missing. It'll be posted by 1:00 this afternoon.

Tom 65-70 Full Size Team Moderator

View My Photos Here

65 Impala SS Tahitian Turquoise


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
02-03-18 02:36 PM - Post#2723208    
    In response to 427SS65

Great update Tom!

The info on the console storage compartment finish is very useful. The few I have seen in person were all devoid of any covering material.

I truly thank each and every contributor for the plethora of info generously supplied to that sticky thread.

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


Edited by chlkorg on 02-03-18 02:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
427SS65 
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 14664
427SS65
Age: 73
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
02-06-18 02:14 PM - Post#2723550    
    In response to chlkorg

EJ, you're welcome! I'm glad to do it for everybody. 99% of all files are downloadable. Keep them on your hard drive and you guys can post them long after I'm gone (not planning for that to happen).

Tom 65-70 Full Size Team Moderator

View My Photos Here

65 Impala SS Tahitian Turquoise


 
427SS65 
"15th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 14664
427SS65
Age: 73
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
02-06-18 02:22 PM - Post#2723551    
    In response to 427SS65

I should scan the schematic for the AM only radio and post it. If you have further problems, let me know. Most common problems with U63 are:

1. Failure of the DS501 output transistor due to wrong impedance speaker or shorted speaker wire.

2. Failure of Q1, mixer transistor due to static or close lightning strikes (near the car).

3. Failure of one or more sections of the can capacitor (no longer available).

Tom 65-70 Full Size Team Moderator

View My Photos Here

65 Impala SS Tahitian Turquoise


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
02-12-18 03:51 PM - Post#2724177    
    In response to 427SS65

Thanks Tom. Sorry to have missed your recent posts. For some reason I no longer receive subscription notifications although it is activated for this thread.

That additional info about the radio is appreciated. I'm not currently working on it (beyond face detailing) but pretty sure I'll be itching sooner or later to look closer at the reason for diminished reception. No rush, but if you do get around to scanning the schematic I'm sure it will come to good use in the future. Simply food-for-thought, do you think any of your "most common failure" scenarios could be ruled out based on this radio having at least mild/moderate static and the ability to tune (albeit faintly) a few stations?

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
04-13-18 03:20 PM - Post#2730884    
    In response to chlkorg

Hoping someone can advise on how to separate the bucket seat backs from the bottoms. Not the usual bolt together of later designs. Best I can tell is the chrome trim caps are supposed to simply pop off (which I have yet to accomplish) and the seat back swing arms get spread to clear the pivot pins? My caps and trim are in good condition so I don't want to muscle-and-mar if I'm incorrect.

Also, I've always in the past made my own seat buns using the originals as guides but the ones I'm working on now are 100% deteriorated. From what I can tell by way of pictures they look to be 2" flats with no bolstering -- Might that be correct?

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 918

Age: 59
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
04-13-18 04:42 PM - Post#2730885    
    In response to chlkorg

Those "derby" caps are like a Chinese finger puzzle to get off.
I bought 4 since the inners were missing and the outers were dented so I didn't worry about removing them intact.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1964-1966-Che vy-Cheve...
Push one arm in to make more free space to pull the arm on the other side off, so one arm off at a time, not both at once.
Seat buns and cotton and burlap kits are all available as well as the vinyl upholstery of course, and it's a good idea to replace that old foam and stuff anyway.

Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
04-13-18 06:04 PM - Post#2730894    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

Much appreciate the reply!

You definitely provided the insight I needed. Was going to make a tool to release the reverse fingers on the caps but the space is so little that I'm sure to mar or dent the perimeter trim. Will probably just sacrifice the caps and buy new. Sure do hope I gain additional wiggle room once the caps are removed as spreading the arms looks to be a "stiff" job.

Just got my covers in mid week and want to get the job started as soon as possible to assure there are no issues with their fit/quality. As for the other items (burlap, batting, foam, etc.), I have enough to complete another set (or two) of interiors. Supplies are left over from a recover (and past recovers) I was going to do for a friend who unfortunately totaled the vehicle before we had chance to get at it. Still, really would like to determine if the seat foam is flat as I expect. Current foam is absolute dust!

*EDIT* -- Forgot to thank you for the link!

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 918

Age: 59
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
04-13-18 08:24 PM - Post#2730908    
    In response to chlkorg

Your welcome.
The seat foam isn't flat though.
The bolsters and contours can't be achieved nicely without the proper shaped foam underneath.
Here's an example, but shop around:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/62-65-Nova-Impala-a...

Ryan

65 Impala SS convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
04-13-18 09:11 PM - Post#2730918    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

Thanks again Ryan!

I did think it odd to imagine no bolstering. Having not yet completed disassembly I assumed contouring might be a function of seat suspension shaping. Now, the link you provided does show definite bolstering of the foam (albeit slight).

While that is decent pricing for the Speedway buns the DIYer in me provides a yearning to do a little foam carving. The only drawback is not having the old foam to use as a guide (which I have in the past).

An example of the images I kept coming across that gave me the false impression of flat foam can be found HERE.

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
08-28-18 01:19 PM - Post#2744710    
    In response to chlkorg

As my drip rails are in mint condition I'm being overly cautious with their removal. Prying outward from underneath provides no movement. There's probably adhesive/sealant from the factory sticking them in place but I wanted to make sure there wasn't a lip on the bottom that first requires displacement. The bottle opener as a tool doesn't look to be a viable option. Anyone with insight.



Additionally, has anyone ever seen the 1/4 window corner trim (piece that drip rail meets) available from any source (new or used)? Both of these pot metal trim pieces are pitted badly.



Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 127
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
09-01-18 04:30 AM - Post#2744980    
    In response to chlkorg

Maybe try some heat from a blow gun/hair dryer and a broad tip tool to pry out from the bottom... maybe use a piece of wood to spread the load out on the lower part of the drip edge. Before prying out, try to separate the bottom of the drip trim from the steel A pillar first.

Mark

Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
09-01-18 07:01 PM - Post#2745039    
    In response to MarkISS

Thanks for the reply Mark!

Yeah, I forgot to update -- Shortly after posting I noticed I foolishly missed the screws holding the pillar molding on. Foolishly assumed the screws holding the weatherstrip channel on, which sandwiches the molding to the pillar, were the only retainers. After removing six screws the pillar drip moldings came off with no effort.

As for the other moldings' they're still on. I have yet to apply gentle heat and so far have only used a wooden paint stirring stick for prying in effort to work blemish free. I'll probably give it a another go tomorrow with heat applied.

Also found repros of the corner moldings from a few sources.

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
bigbowtielover 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2546
bigbowtielover
Loc: Surrey British Columbia
Reg: 09-01-13
09-08-18 04:04 PM - Post#2745674    
    In response to chlkorg

Drip rail snaps into a small groove. Can opener does work but I like to use a wide (about one inch) wood chisel to gently pry it out of groove a little at a time starting at front . Just pry it enough to unsnap it from groove moving it less than an eighth of an inch and working it every couple inches. Very tricky to do without damaging it ! I wrecked or damaged a few in the past before mastering a removal technique that worked. Can opener trick works but can mark or dent the outside and kink the inside edge.



 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
09-16-18 03:00 PM - Post#2746344    
    In response to bigbowtielover

  • bigbowtielover Said:
Drip rail snaps into a small groove. Can opener does work but I like to use a wide (about one inch) wood chisel to gently pry it out of groove a little at a time starting at front . Just pry it enough to unsnap it from groove moving it less than an eighth of an inch and working it every couple inches. Very tricky to do without damaging it ! I wrecked or damaged a few in the past before mastering a removal technique that worked. Can opener trick works but can mark or dent the outside and kink the inside edge.



Grrrrrr, wish I could get reply notification to work on this forum, completely missed your post. I was coming back simply to post a follow-up and picture of the molding for other's future reference but will now take opportunity to say -- Please accept my delayed...Thanks!

Not having seen your post I finally got to looking at the moldings today with a magnifier and strong light. Under some very well concealing dusty caulking I found the channel the molding lip nestles into. Once I found that it's just as you state, pop it out on one end and it's easily worked out from there with little effort and no damage.

Thanks again to all.




Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 507

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
09-23-18 11:46 PM - Post#2747032    
    In response to bigbowtielover

  • bigbowtielover Said:
Stock V8 powerglide converter stalls at about 1400-1800 rpm. Total dog as far as performance goes. Use a converter from a 6cyl car. 11" dia and it stalls around 1800-2200 rpm. I have used them a few times with cammed up engines and it works great.



My setup is almost identical to chlkorg's (327/300, mild cam, PG, 3.31) and a higher stall TC is something I'll want to use, as well. Would I have to scrounge for a used one from a 6 cyl car, or are these available as new replacements? Can you recommend a specific brand and/or a part #?


1965 Impala SS 327, Crocus Yellow


 
G. Baker 
Poster
Posts: 49

Loc: Ontario Canada
Reg: 12-18-15
10-04-18 05:00 PM - Post#2747875    
    In response to chlkorg

I would strongly recommend that you get new disc brakes all around and replace brake lines at the same time. No sense chasing around for the original air for the tires etc.
We have the technology....................



 
chlkorg 
Poster
Posts: 60

Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-24-17
10-10-19 01:45 PM - Post#2777580    
    In response to G. Baker

Hello All!

Eldercare duties have for the most part sidelined my progress for the past year. I'm still just piddling with parts cleanup and refurbishing when a moment or two can be spared. But I do have a question or two along with an observation...or two. ;-)

First I'll address G. Baker's post even though he's not been online for the better part of this year. I gave disks (all around) consideration but finally decided this was not going to be a daily or hard driven vehicle. Ultimate decision was to keep it quite stock aside from upgrading to a dual master cylinder.

Like AmericanPie I'm still on the fence with regard to torque converter (200R4 has been back burnered). I did decide on a very small upgrade cam wise (Lunati BareBones 10120100LK) so it should still provide low down 327 torque (oxymoron I know ;-)). This gives me pause as to whether an 11" TC is advantageous.

Question about carpeting -- I acquired a carpet in a parts deal but thought, after-the-fact, is it for a 2 or 4 door model. I can't seem to grasp what would easily differentiate so would be grateful for some enlightenment. Also, would these carpets generally be 301 or 601 style? I need to get a yard to trim a few areas (console, etc) and not sure if the open 301 or tighter 601 would be the best match.

As a heads-up -- My pan rot is limited to the trunk and although I only needed the left,center & right patch panels as opposed to available entire one-piece pan I was floored by freight shipping cost for the three pieces. Most every place doubled the cost with shipping added. Luckily I found JEGS offered Golden Star panels at a very good price which includes free shipping. While I've not had a chance to fit or install them they look very well made. The 18 gauge steel has deep and crisp stampings. I still hold a reserve though until it comes time to fitment.

Thanks,
Ej

Ej

'65 Impala SS, 327/300/PG, Madeira Maroon/Black (just getting started on stand-off resto)


 
Ecklers AutoMotive
 Page 3 of 3 « First<123
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

6991 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.071 seconds.   Total Queries: 17   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 04:45 AM
Top