oldcardoc
Member
Posts: 15
Age: 76
Loc: Brevard NC
Reg: 06-26-06
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09-12-16 04:51 AM - Post#2650775
Have a 65 Nova w/194. 74K miles (nice original unmolested car)
Replaced the sending unit and bulb on temp light. When driving the temp light glows faintly all the time. Turn key on prior to starting it does not glow but Gen & Oil do. I do have correct sending unit as I found that there were two types.
What could be the cause??
Bruce
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If I had known I would live this long I would have taken
better care of myself...
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Edited by oldcardoc on 09-12-16 04:53 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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raycow
DECEASED
Posts: 27999

Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
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09-12-16 02:16 PM - Post#2650882
In response to raycow
Please run these two tests:
1. Disconnect the lead from the sender. Does the lamp still light dimly?
2. If you have a manual trans, place it in Neutral. If you have an automatic trans, place it in any gear except Park or Neutral. Turn the key switch to START. Does the lamp light brightly? If not, does it light at all?
Ray
Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive. |
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oldcardoc
Member
Posts: 15
Age: 76
Loc: Brevard NC
Reg: 06-26-06
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09-13-16 04:59 AM - Post#2651034
In response to raycow
Ray
#1-No #2-No.
Light does not come on at all unless I take sending unit wire off or leave it on and ground it and turn key on, then it lights brightly and stays on..
Bruce
************************* ******************
If I had known I would live this long I would have taken
better care of myself...
************************* ******************
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raycow
DECEASED
Posts: 27999

Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
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09-13-16 08:32 AM - Post#2651080
In response to oldcardoc
#1-No #2-No.
Light does not come on at all unless I take sending unit wire off or leave it on and ground it and turn key on, then it lights brightly and stays on..
Thank you. That helps a lot. The bad news is, I think you may have two separate problems there.
#1 shows that your circuit from the ignition switch through the lamp to the sender is good. It also indicates that you have a defective or incorrect sender. I'm leaning toward incorrect because the correct sender is a switch. It can only be either full on or full off. What you have in there now sounds like a gauge sender, which is a variable resistance.
#2 means that the lamp test circuit isn't working. The lamp is supposed to light when the key is in the START position. This is to let you know that the bulb is good, because if it failed and the engine overheated, you might not find out about it until the engine got hot enough for damage to occur.
The ignition switch has a dedicated terminal for this purpose, so first look for a green wire connected to the switch. Disconnect that wire at the switch and ground it with the key turned to ON. The lamp should light. If it does, the switch is bad. If it doesn't, you have a break in the wiring.
Ray
Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive. |
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oldcardoc
Member
Posts: 15
Age: 76
Loc: Brevard NC
Reg: 06-26-06
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09-13-16 03:52 PM - Post#2651137
In response to raycow
Ray
Thanks a lot I see what you are saying. I will test this out this week. I think its the ign. switch.
Bruce
************************* ******************
If I had known I would live this long I would have taken
better care of myself...
************************* ******************
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